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TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

PRADA SLUT posted:

I have some Metolius hand balm, and while I like it, it doesn't seem to be the cheapest around. Is there anything similar that anyone would recommend that I could throw in my climbing bag and put on after I leave the gym?

I've had good success with Bert's Bees! It's not necessarily cheap, I think it's around $7-8 for a tin but they're gigantic. Probably 10x the size of the metolius tin. Also, a few of my friends use that Corn Husker's stuff.

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TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Baldbeard posted:

All about corn huskers post climbing. I hate the smell, but the stuff absorbs into your skin faster and easier than anything I've ever tried by a factor of 10.

It definitely works! I just don't like the way it feels on my hands and smells awful so I stay away from it.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Kefit posted:

Every time you jump or fall off the wall there's a chance of injury. This is especially true if you're tired and not able to concentrate as much as you should on the landing, like after sending a hard problem at your limit. All it takes is misplacing a foot and/or landing in an awkward part of the pad to roll your ankle badly enough to need to stay off the wall for a couple of weeks (or longer). It's best to down climb as much as you can to minimize this risk.

Of course, a controlled fall is generally better than an uncontrolled tumble off a botched downclimb. This is particularly true on some overhangs, where you can just extend your body vertically from the finish hold and drop straight down to the floor relatively safely.

The only time I've ever gotten an ankle injury is downclimbing a v0 :downsgun:

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
I've had a bunch of problems with the middle finger on my right hand for the past 2.5 years or so. First it was a collateral ligament, then some pulley issues, and now the joint is messed up somehow. It's finally getting close to 100% now!

The biggest improvement I've gotten is from a mixture of rest, using theraputty for hand exercises, an accupressure massage ring, and contrast baths. I don't know which, if any, of these actually made a difference(besides rest, always helps) but I'm all better now. :iiam:

Kinda better at least.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

gamera009 posted:

No need for surgery but I am hella loading on lodine. It's working but not at nearly 100% now. It looks minor, but definitely limiting.

Sucks. Balls.

At least I can still cycle. :(

Are you going to go through physical therapy? Even minor shoulder injuries can linger for awhile if not treated properly.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob
Ideally, you'll want to be as self sufficient as possible in case of any problems that come up. Learn stuff like rappelling and cleaning before making an outdoor trip or have someone there who can teach you while on the trip. Most of the time a basic lead class won't teach you things like that so check for any additional advanced courses that they may offer.

Also, I'm assuming you can TR 5.10- in your gym. Like Sharks Eat Bear says, be happy with 5.7-5.8 and be a bit careful about going for stuff like 10s when leading outdoors. There is a huge variance in difficulty when leading a route compared to doing it TR and then there's going to be an even bigger jump when doing it on a route outdoors.

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TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

alnilam posted:

Thanks! Could you elaborate a little, or give me some terms to google for? I've never explicitly "worked out" those muscles before since i was climbing anyway.

Rice Buckets!!!!!!!

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