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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Discomancer posted:

Nothing at the gym really prepares you for a mono that squishes when you stick a finger in it :gonk:

That means one of two things:

1) Your finger is fat. Lose some weight fatass. :smugdog:
2) A kid was climbing that route. You know what the squishy poo poo is. :negative:

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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

blurr makes some good stuff.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Covert Ops Wizard posted:

That's a good one. It is definitely a rite of passage.

What the hell are you talking about dude?

Rite of Passage is a V4/5 on Flagstaff. :colbert:

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

I've been climbing in a nice thermal fleece racing jacket. Sure, it's odd to have a bicycle thermal jacket on, but it stretches, keeps me warm, and packs easily.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Frown Town posted:

Excellent! I'll have to climb at the Spot then and then grab a drink the night before my interview. I'm excited!

My only complaint right now is that a Spot day pass is more expensive, and the floor is kinda terrible. Don't be surprised if you hit a seam and it punches through. Be pretty aware of the are you're in.

Bouldering there is awesome, however.

The floor at Movement is much better, incredible roped climbing, but the bouldering isn't as expansive. Also, the grades are a bit soft on the bouldering problems. Parking is notoriously bad at Movement, though they opened a new parking lot for customers across the street.

There are plenty of goons (read: 1 or 2) that boulder at the Spot regularly. I might swing by on Tuesday to see how the problems are, but I'm usually at Movement (until April) now.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

I'm the machine washer.

I've pretty much done it with every Evolv I've had and never had issue - but I also tie them up in a pillow sack and wash delicate with towels. Works great. Air dry and they don't stink anymore.

The issue is the synthetic, which harbors bacteria. Use of foot powders or sprays with miconazole will minimize it, but then you get a film in there that you'll have to wash out eventually. Cedar works well, but I find it a bit expensive. The bananafingers inserts work really well from what I have heard from people at the gym that have them, but they sell out super fast. :(

Basically, if you wear synthetics and have sweaty feet, be prepared for stink. If you have leather shoes, they won't be as bad, but might still be stinky.

Everyone's got their own way of dealing with it - and some people have more extreme methods (read: me). Just find one you like and stick with it.

NB - I use the machine wash on shamans, talons/predators, and I've used it successfully with toras and optimus. Just stick to cold/cold cycle. YMMV

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

modig posted:

Got an indoor V7 boulder problem I've been working on for a 3-4 climbing days, I'm pretty happy about it. For Movement goons its the pink tape with the big red sphere are the end.

My worry with the weight vest would be increasing the chance of a tendon injury if you blow your feet on a crimpy hold. So if you use it, I would focus on climbing in control. If you blow your feet, just fall, don't try to catch all that weight, especially on smaller holds. You could also start climbing two routes in a row as another way to work on the physical side of things.

When was that? I managed that one and the pink V6 to the left of it.

I'll probably be at Movement tomorrow night if you're going to be there for additional GOON CLIMBING.

armorer posted:

Does anyone use one and have any advice for me? I am planning to put 10 pounds in it and climb with that for a few weeks before adding any weight. The last thing I want to do is injure myself by getting overzealous.
I use a weight vest pretty regularly. Mostly campus board or doing circuits on V2 and below. Basically climb four or five V2 or lower in a row. Focus on quiet feet, good core use, and downclimb everything.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

armorer posted:

Circuits on V0 through V2 seems reasonable enough, and I will be careful not to twist an ankle. I was thinking about finger and elbow tendon injuries from strain, not really about falling so that is a good point. I don't plan on going to up to "10-15 kg" for a while, although the vest I got will hold that much if I want. I'm planning to start with 10lbs and see how it affects my climbing on some easier routes that I know pretty well already. If that goes well for two weeks or so, then I will probably go up to 20lbs and stay there for the next couple months. I'd like to be in better leading shape by late spring / early summer. If anyone is curious, I'll try to post back about the vest and any progress I've made in a few months.

Admittedly, the vest helped to develop a ton of power, but didn't do much for technique.

20# is what I use once a week and it makes an incredible change, particularly when circuit climbing. The V2 you did before without blinking becomes hell after one or two climbs preceding it.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

modig posted:

I sent the V6 two different ways, then couldn't repeat it yesterday at lunch, which is when I climbed the 7. Today doesn't work for me but I can do nights even tho I usually climb at lunch.

I'm in Denver during the day. :(

I usually climb Tuesday/Thursday nights at 7. Saturdays I'm there with the wife at 9am.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

I wonder how they get away with selling the bags with famous characters on them without getting sued by the likes of Valve or Nintendo. :iiam:

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Most of the people I have climbed with insist on spotting. I also insist on spotting on problems that may be sketchy, even if it's just a few feet from the ground. Being able to grab someone and prevent landing on their head, face, neck, or twist wrong on their ankles is important as hell. Improper spotting led to me dislocating an ankle, but proper spotting has also saved me from highballs and sketchy falls.

The problem with most spotters is that they're not told how to spot, how to react dynamically to spot appropriately, and most also believe that catching under the pits is the best way to spot (it isn't).

I suppose we could have this derail for the rest of the thread - it's like people that ride their bicycle without a helmet, or lead without a helmet, but I think safety is a real priority outside and I always insist that the people I climb with (if I haven't climbed with them before) know how to spot and can spot well.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

a foolish pianist posted:

^^^^^ I was about to same the same thing. It's not a problem with spotting, it's a problem with lovely gyms not teaching people how to spot. A good spot is crucial, and gently caress anyone who says otherwise.

Word. :c00l::hf::c00l:

I think there's a huge bro-mentality of "spotting is for pussies" that I get at a lot of gyms, especially at places like The Spot, where of all places it shouldn't be the case. All people bouldering should know that the mental safety net of a good spotter can give that additional boost where you're on a hard problem that you might not have otherwise because you're preoccupied with your own safety. Being able to trust your spotter and know that you'll be safe gives a lot of power and drive when you're in the middle of some terrible crux. Plus, you know, safe if you have a good spotter.

The strange thing is that lots of people are okay with spotting a lady at the gym, and I've seen plenty of bros hop to their feet to give a spot, but when there's a guy on the wall (I've had this happen a ton of times) or if I ask for a spot (when my friends aren't around) on a cruxy, sketchy move, I generally have to wait a second before someone finally gets up and spots (usually with the "fine, I guess I'll do it" look). I try to be mindful and give plenty of spots and tell people that I have their back when they're on something that looks sketchy and I've always been thanked afterwards. I have yet to hear, "why did you loving spot me, you dick - it made me afraid of coming off the problem."

I think pianist is right in the statement that a lot of gyms nowadays don't teach proper spotting technique and that, coupled with the idea that guys spotting each other is "gay as hell," makes for a disaster. I'm willing to bet that a lot of people, when asked how to spot someone, would assume that spotting is just catching a dude in the pits when they come off a problem, or that spotting for a vertical fall is the same as a lateral movement, or spotting dynoing.

I don't really understand why you wouldn't want to teach someone how to be safe, I guess.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

Getting to 5.10b in a year should not be an issue. If you plan the pitches right he can do the harder ones also.

I think the biggest problem you have will be getting your hands ready for non stop jamming. Most gyms I have been to can't really prepare you for it.

I hear beating your hands with a rubber mallet is pretty good for that.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Frown Town posted:

Just took a bad fall during a lunch time climb bouldering, I think i hyper extended my left arm as I landed on it. Was falling forward and put my arm out on instinct.

What's the best way for healing asap? RICE? Epsom salt bath?

Amputation -> cybernetic arm.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Boulder goons up for outdoors on Sunday morning? Should be brisk enough at Satellites for good friction.

I really want to find that 100 ft traverse behind that area.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

I could probably come out if it is early. I assume we would be bouldering? (I haven't climbed in boulder really) I can bring a crash pad. Also if there are V0-V2 available it would be ideal for me since I haven't climbed in 5 months.

I was hoping to hit the area around 9:30-10am. That sound good for you?

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

I will check with the wife tonight to make sure she doesn't have anything planned and let you know.

Got a report for satellites: wet. No bueno, seņor. You okay to switch it up to some sport climbing, or you want to keep it bouldering?

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

Good time today guys. I really had fun. Hope we can do it again. Glad to send those two routes (however easy) and get my arms back into it a bit.

Funny thing! I went home, ordered up a Black Diamond Half Dome and then gave myself a concussion!

:smith:

If the wether is good, we may hit Bowling Alley to get the two greenhorns you climbed with started on lead outdoors if you're game for more climbing hahaha.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

Just let me know when and i will see if I can make it happen.

What routes are you putting them on? It didn't seem like too many easy ones.

I think there is a 6 or 7 on bowling alley. 9s are probably a bit too stiff for intro lead.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

I think there's probably going to be a regular weekend goon climb in the canyon, and bouldering during the week - probably aiming for Satellites.

I know I'll probably be getting out if the weather is nice.

Also, I just fired off an email about some belay specs.

I am going to be that guy.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

I am in whenever I can make it. Just let me know the time and place.

Might try tomorrow afternoon if it's nice enough, otherwise might just hit BRC to boulder on the exchange day.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Going to give Satellites a whirl, if other goons can be bothered to be there at 9am Saturday morning.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Looks like there's another goon outing this weekend. Looking to hit upper satellites.

Should be early saturday morning as long as the weather holds out.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

Sounds fun but I can't make it this weekend. 5 year anniversary and all.

Celebrate by belaying her. Or giving her the loving spot on Grapple. <3

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Season is off to a lovely start. Seems like I can send up to V7, but only poo poo here and there rather than anything consistently. On the other hand, I fly through most classic V4s.

I guess it's back to training again. :(

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Calling Boulder/Denver climbing goons to meet up at Bowling Alley Sunday morning.

Going to try to hit the rock by 9am. I'll be the one wearing sweet Belay Specs.

Expect super business casual sport.

Unless someone feels like flashing through A Tall Cool One (not me).

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Welp.

Modig is a beast. Cheers on sending that 11a/b like it was nothing dude.

I wish I had as large an arm span as you. :qq:

In other news, Discomancer is a terrible climber when hung over - but at least there wasn't any pants-pooping or vomiting!

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

modig posted:

Thanks for the invite, it was pretty sweet to fit in 3 pitches where I wasn't planning to get any.

But did you manage to fit in Iron Man 3? And was it worth bailing on additional pitches? we left after you did :ssh:

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

Sounds awesome. Paintball was fun but I have welts everywhere.

Hopefully I will get out with you guys this next week.

Do we go back to Animal World, or do you want to see Bowling Alley?

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

I'm always outside every Thursday afternoon. I can easily switch it up to Friday afternoons.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

modig posted:

If you mention before hand I someone (like me) can probably bring gear for you aside from shoes. Or you can swap harnesses/helmet with someone.

Only a select few may utilize the awesomeness that is belay specs.

You must be belay specs certified.

Edit: people cool with bowling alley again? I have a couple of friends that are just getting into it that want to join. There's a really good 5.7 up there but we'll need a few pieces. Pretty sure it's Mosquito Burrito.

gamera009 fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Jun 5, 2013

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

If Boulder/Denver people are down for a Sunday climb (this Sunday), it looks like I'll be heading down in the afternoon rather than my usual mornings (hurray I get to sleep in!).

I'm heading up the canyon with a usual climbing partner and some newbies.

Just get in touch if you're down.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

Put my gear to good use this morning. My wife Belayed me up a big maple tree that is dying in my yard. Anchored off and pulled up my saw. Chopped a bunch of limbs off. It was pretty neat, wish a had a picture.

Hopefully do some real climbing here soon.

We've been hittin Tonnere Tower hard. Lookin to put up Sidekick this coming weekend, I the weather holds out. Or just go back to Bowling Alley haha.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Cybor Tap posted:

Hey Colorado crew.

I'm gonna be out in Denver on June 17th. Possible climbing sesh?

Sure thing.

I assume you have crash plans made already?

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Sunday morning run up to upper Satellites for bouldering.

Just get in touch if you want to meet up.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Probably going to go climbing this afternoon. Any boulder/Denver goons interested in some bouldering?

Edit: going on Thursday as well. Planning on satellites and upper sat. I've got ZeroG on lockdown and I plan on sending.

gamera009 fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Jun 19, 2013

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Any goons in Boulder/Denver down for going up Boulder Canyon for some rope time? We can either hit Tonnere for some multipitch or Bowling Alley for something a bit more relaxed. Or Avalon if we want to stay south-facing.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

spwrozek posted:

Sunday, then yes.

Yeah, forgot to mention on Sunday morning. Meet up at REI at 8am again?

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

Speleothing posted:

You could look at the Flatirons maybe? They can be more of a scramble or a climb depending on routefinding.


EDIT: Also, Bentgate down in Golden is having a 4th of July sale right now, and I'm pretty sure it's actually better in-store than online. Good time to look for a new rope.

Hot drat. I never get down to Golden, though. :(


IfIWereARichMan posted:

Does anyone know of ridiculously easy routes around Denver, or suggestions for particular places to look? I'd like to take my boy scout troop climbing - they are skinny little 13 year olds with no climbing experience, so I am looking for something equivalent to 5.4 or 5.5

You could always hit a gym. The Auraria Campus gym has a small climbing area that could work. You could also hit Denver Bouldering Club if bouldering is an acceptable substitute.

I haven't climbed enough for the flatirons area or Boulder canyon (roped climbing) to know where the best beginner areas are.

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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005

You can find cheap as hell Evolvs online. Same with 5.10s. Keep an eye on Steep/Cheep and the like. You'll see stuff for cheap (sub-$80) eventually.

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