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Is there some kind of grading system that gyms use for bouldering? I'm completely confused by what I'm seeing at the gym I went to, and don't speak the same language as the locals, so I wasn't even really able to ask what was going on.
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Jan 26, 2013 14:16
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Yeah, that makes sense. I'm in Milan, Italy. If any of you guys are around here, I could desperately use a climbing partner who I at least somewhat understand..
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Jan 27, 2013 08:18
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I figure I'll ask just in case, but any Italian goons that want to teach me how to climb? I'm in Milan, and while I'm sure everyone at the gym is friendly, I speak next to no Italian. I have my own gear and everything, just no one to climb with.
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Mar 8, 2013 05:33
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Is there some database where I could possibly find some EU (Italy, around Milan) people to climb with? I've gone to a couple gyms and have major issues communicating, and would love to find some english speaking climbers who do outdoor as well. I'm pretty new to climbing but can't even really take any classes due to the language barrier.
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May 3, 2013 14:31
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Thanks to this thread, and an extremely enthusiastic guy at the local rock wall, I've gotten into rock climbing and gone from "How do I put this harness on?" to being asked to route for people in the last two weeks. In short, thank you thread for convincing me to become Fiesta, slayer of 5.8s everywhere (in my gym).
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Mar 1, 2014 17:09
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Wow... and here I was thinking of switching from climbing near daily to twice a day. Guess that's a bad idea around here?
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Mar 19, 2014 03:06
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Sigmund Fraud posted:(I'll go ahead and assume you climb 5.12 and been climbing steadily for a year minimum. Otherwise pushing your body this hard may just lead to injury. Nope. Generally follow Cavefish in the mornings and accessory work at lunch, paired with the required running/cardio for my organization, then climb just about every night for a couple of hours, in which I warm up with a pyramid of 4 5.6, 3 5.7, 2 5.8, and 1 5.9 back to back with as little rest between "steps" as possible and zero rest between repeats of the same route. Then focus on my current 5.10 projects, then when I am tired at the end another pyramid to help with the instant desire to power through and focus on form. I've been climbing for about a month, and probably missed four days total in that time. My conundrum was whether to replace the weight training in the morning and lunchtime with more climbing and shorter maintenance based weight lifting at lunch.
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Mar 20, 2014 04:30
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I'd love to be climbing higher grade stuff, were I good enough. Right now I'm stuck at 5.10+ and 5.11 routes. I also eat insane amounts of healthy food, get plenty of sleep, and take a variety of supplements to help offset the strain all this causes to the body. I do the pyramids at the suggestion of a much more talented and experienced climber as a way to focus on using technique over a period of time instead of just powering through every little problem I come across, because that gets extremely tiring after sending a few in a row.
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Mar 20, 2014 05:54
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All right, I'll ease up guys, Thanks for the info. I know myself that I don't have the ligament strength for the more crimp heavy routes, so yeah I should probably be giving the hands more rest since that is when recovery happens. I understand the reasoning, but just hate the feeling of wasting time I could be lifting or climbing. Thanks for the advice, though. I'll try to chill a few times a week. Edit: But seriously you guys were sending 5.12 that quick? Maybe I suck at this worse than I thought... FiestaDePantalones fucked around with this message at 11:37 on Mar 20, 2014 |
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Mar 20, 2014 11:17
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guppy posted:It's on the to-do list. Some friends invited me to the Red earlier this year but I couldn't go. My gym is running a two-day trip to Coopers Rock later this year and I intend to go on it. In the meantime, flawed though they are, gym grades are the best benchmark available to me for my performance. Wait Cooper's Rock like in WV? I didn't know I shared a state with another climbing goon! Any chance you can fit one more 'never climbed outdoors but 5.10b indoors' in the mix?
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Jul 9, 2014 13:52
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guppy posted:Right site, but we'll be coming from out of state -- we're out of the Baltimore area, and I believe this is being organized for members of the gym only. If you'e in WV it obviously makes no sense for you to join my gym. Adding more people isn't my call to make as I don't work there. Sorry Awwww all right then. You've got me itching to go there, at least. It's only 40 minutes away from me so I may just hop on the bike and make a trip there to see what's up.
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Jul 10, 2014 04:20
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Was sending 5.10+ a month ago pretty consistently, then I broke the pinkie toe on my right foot. Tried bouldering last night and couldn't send a v1. I hate this feeling.
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Aug 21, 2014 04:28
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Climbed outdoors for the first time this weekend! Highlights were flashing the first route I attempted (5.7), hang dogging a 5.10a (10b is the highest I've redpointed in a gym), and learning a good bit about lead belaying. Next I really wanna lead a 5.9. Why is this so drat addicting!?
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Dec 14, 2014 19:10
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I'm in the market for quickdraws and came across a pretty good price on Nano KS Express from Camp USA. Anyone have any experience with these and feel like weighing in on them?
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Mar 10, 2015 15:02
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Thanks for the advice! I ended up going for the Black Diamond Posiwires since I could get 12 for $108 and haven't really heard any negative things about them.
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Mar 10, 2015 17:27
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Chris! posted:That's a ridiculously cheap price..! I wish draws were that inexpensive in the UK. Got them straight from their website and used bdwelcome15, a 15% off promo code. They are a Web special right now, I believe.
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Mar 11, 2015 20:00
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Got my Tenaya Oasi's in the mail today. I opted for 1.5 sizes below street shoe, which is a lot smaller than ever before. I really enjoy them so far, but I keep slipping of holds I reach out with my bug toe for unless I really toe focus on toeing down into it. I'm sure it'll get better as I get more used to them.
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Mar 17, 2015 23:44
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I really can't say enough about the Tenaya Oasi's. I wear them 1.5 (US) sizes down and they're pretty magical.
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May 7, 2015 14:52
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If you live on the east coast, go to the New River Gorge. Period. Having an AMAZING time of it.
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Jul 25, 2015 21:23
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So I'm about to spend a week at the Red River Gorge, and my goal for the trip is to break through to leading 11. I've on sited plenty of 10+ at the New, just haven't gotten through 11 yet. Recommendations for routes/areas?
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Nov 18, 2015 03:16
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Like goons in the night?  ?
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Nov 19, 2015 20:05
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With an equally strange backstory. Thanks for the Red advice. I had no clue about the website!
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Nov 19, 2015 21:09
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Thanks for all the advice guys! I ended up one-hanging Johnnie B Good on the first day, and sending it the next! I then got brave and went for No Place Like Home and took 6 falls off the no hands rest due to trying to force the wrong beta and had to rap off a bail beaner, but think I will definitely be able to knock it out next time I go. It was an awesome experience overall!
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Nov 27, 2015 18:06
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On the arete. My friends made such a big deal about how fun the arete was to climb that I kinda shut down my brain and tried to force straight up it instead of seeing what I'm told are more obvious moves to the left of where I was.
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Dec 1, 2015 20:09
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I too have a beard, climb at a gym, and have a corgi. Are you my brother?
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Jan 8, 2016 04:27
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| # ¿ May 8, 2024 23:00 |
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My mega jul is amazing and I've taught multiple people to belay and lead belay on it. You can get it and the cross load guard locker for like $30 when the package is on sale.
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Apr 2, 2016 17:35
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