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Climbing gyms are massive air volumes with very few interstitial walls and ceiling spaces where you could place ducts or HVAC units. It would be enormously expensive to effectively climate control them.
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Dec 15, 2012 18:39
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Grandmaster.flv posted:Am I going to die if I wear my Fei-yue martial art shoes climbing? They're super simple canvas shoes with heavy rubber treads intended for, well martial arts but they're awesome for parkour and that kind of stuff. They're super grippy but they don't have the kind of support my climbing shoes do. Yes and on top of that you will look like an idiot. You want really stiff shoes for climbing, not something that is good for parkour. Just rent some shoes.
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Dec 25, 2012 20:54
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triad posted:Question for all you boulder-ers out there. This article was in a climbing magazine at my gym. To me it sounds like a recipe for injury and a way to turn climbing into the fitness routine monotony from which it is intended to be my escape, but it does have very detailed weekly and monthly routines and I'm sure if you completed the year you would come out a much better climber: http://www.climbing.com/skill/your-goal-boulder-harder/
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Jan 20, 2013 07:16
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semicolonsrock posted:So I can't climb again until awhile after the knee surgery I'm getting soon. Any suggestions for good work outs so I can get back into bouldering without losing literally all of my strength? I've been doing lots of pull ups, but I'm sure there's a lot more I could be doing. I just do tons of yoga whenever I'm injured (like right now  ). Keeps your shoulders and core super strong and lets you work on balance as well. A good teacher will show you how to modify everything to account for the knee.
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Jan 30, 2013 18:29
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My brother got me some Prana pants that I would wear non-stop in my life if I could get away with it.
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Feb 12, 2013 04:46
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I think the 2nd best exercise for climbing is yoga. Flexibility, balance, the body awareness to be able to move in very controlled ways, plus major shoulder and core strength are all huge for climbing.
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Feb 18, 2013 00:43
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Petey posted:My gym includes free yoga designed for climbing. It's awesome. My gym has free yoga and most of the teachers are climbers as well. It's awesome. I upped my regular 1 class per week to 3 classes per week while I nurse a finger injury and it's completely addictive. Two years ago, my wife had to drag me to get me to go to my first yoga class and now I'm trying to figure out ways to keep my yoga schedule once I start climbing again.
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Feb 19, 2013 06:16
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Also smelly shoe people- never buy synthetic shoes. They're no better than non-synthetics and they smell like crap always. I don't know why Evolv thinks it's such a great idea. Since I've gotten away from Evolvs my climbing shoes smell no worse than any other shoe I wear. Yeah this. I've been climbing several times a week (ignoring injury time) in my current shoes for at least a year and they don't smell at all, I can put my nose right in them and there isn't anything. The only thing I do for them is let them air out after climbing (instead of zipping them up in my backpack). My first pair of shoes were Evolvs and they smelled horrendous after about 6 months.
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Feb 24, 2013 00:38
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ZeroDays posted:Wow, concentrating on foot work and really paying attention to my feet instead of always trying to reach has immensely improved my climbing. It's one of those things that I knew you were supposed to do, but never actually practiced. So simple, yet so effective. I was always complaining about how my 6,3" partner had the advantage (I'm 5'7") because he could reach poo poo that I couldn't, but I realised I'd revolutionised how I approached a climb when I statically completed a move he had to dyno. Obviously I'm a beginner (been climbing a few months) but it's exciting when things just click. Next step: start concentrating on your core/hips
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Mar 6, 2013 20:01
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For moisturizer I love Burt's Bees Banana Hand Cream and Badger Cuticle Care. Use Burt's on the palms and Badger on the backs of my hands. If you already have big calluses try Mane & Tail Hoof Therapy (I think that's what it's called), it dissolves calluses like crazy.
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Mar 24, 2013 00:18
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Chris! posted:I fell from a low overhang today (indoor bouldering), it was a route I've done before I just pushed it a little at the end of a session. I instinctively put my hand underneath myself and managed to hurt my middle finger of my right hand. It bent back the wrong way, it's a finger which has tendon damage already so was pretty painful, I just strapped it to another finger with finger tape and have left it. It's quite sore still and a little swollen but not too bad, not broken or anything. I guess I should just be careful for a while and try and fall better in future? No you should not climb until you don't have any pain. Tendons typically take 6-12 weeks to heal.
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Mar 30, 2013 16:19
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PRADA SLUT posted:I know the best way to get better is to climb, but are there any exercises that help? Core and shoulder workouts? Yoga. Great for shoulder, back, and core strength and for lower body flexibility
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Apr 3, 2013 16:20
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Frown Town posted:left elbow, inner? Hard for me to extend but I can bend it with a little pain. Can close and open my fist. Hurts a bit, probably like a 6.5/10 if 10 is max, but pain is a little better an hour later I did something similar and the doctor said it was most likely an MCL sprain. It's basically the same as a tendon injury, the only really effective treatment is rest.
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Apr 11, 2013 21:12
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pokchu posted:I kind of disagree with some of the previous training advice. Being as efficient and technically correct as possible is great up to a point, but there comes a level where it won't make you any physically stronger (or at least not with any speed.) once you send whatever you're working on, and are confident in your ability to do so, start climbing in ways to maximize your gains. Straight armed is your weakest position, so try to keep arms flexed and locked off there. Outdoors you will almost always be able to find two feet, so train indoors using only one foot at all times. Keep body tension at a maximum by staying squared up with the wall: no back stepping. And moving staticly isn't the end -all be-All of climbing. If you try to be static ALL the time, you aren't training contact strength and technique. Jimmy Webb sets at TBA in Chattanooga and I overheard a guy complaining to him about just that fact about a route jimmy set. He was told "then I guess you can't send it." The main problem with climbing sloppy and dynamic is that you're much MUCH more likely to injure yourself that way, and nothing hurts progress more than injuries.
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May 2, 2013 00:19
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pokchu posted:Except that "sloppy" and "dynamic" aren't mutually inclusive. You can easily be dynamic and controlled. What did you mean by not climbing "technically correct" if you didn't mean sloppy?
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May 2, 2013 02:51
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Oh yeah in that case that makes sense, we've talked in this thread about all sorts of weird ways to handicap yourself in order to improve your climbing (climbing with your arms in PVC tubes, climbing without using your fingers, etc). For me at the gym I like to do at least one endurance day per week where I'm climbing pyramids (including down-climbing everything)instead of working on a project. In general I definitely get a better workout when I'm not trying to finish a particular problem and instead focusing on improving specific weaknesses. I still avoid dynamic stuff unless it's really interesting because I always injure myself and because IMO static climbing just looks a lot cooler (in an aesthetic sense).
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May 2, 2013 03:33
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LA must be cheap as poo poo if $75 per month for a gym membership is absurd. Brooklyn Boulders is $100/mo, Mission Cliffs is $71/mo, Planet Granite is $73/mo, Portland Rock Gym is $63/mo and doesn't even include yoga without an annual membership (plus their yoga schedule is garbage), The Circuit is just a bouldering gym and is $59/mo, etc.
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Jun 18, 2013 00:26
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Claes Oldenburger posted:So after bouldering for a few months, my arms are getting stronger but my wrists still feel weak doing some moves that arn't just straight hanging or pulling. Is there anything I can do to help my wrists get stronger/more stable? Google for "false grip"exercises, it's how gymnasts strengthen their wrists. You'll start by doing dead hangs from your wrists instead of hands. I agree that just climbing will be more fun and probably more effective though.
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Aug 4, 2013 00:36
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guppy posted:I feel like I'm making big progress and it's great. Starting to climb 5.9s regularly, and I couldn't get up even one of them a couple months ago -- when I tried back then, in fact, I could barely even start one of them. Climbed 3 or 4 last night, and most of them weren't even that bad, although one of them I had to get myself up through sheer force of will because the holds were awful. (Frankly, it felt mis-graded compared to the others, or possibly like some holds were incorrectly unmarked.) but I did it. Why would I do the obstacles in this obstacle course when I can just walk around them?
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Oct 3, 2013 15:55
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guppy posted:While I'm sure it's fun to be smarmy, this is a misstatement of the issue. You're still using the tools provided on the route, and only those tools. People skip holds further up the route all the time. The point is that any rule in a sport could be called a silly pointless rule. "Why is the start of the route the start of the route?" is an inane question. No one cares what you do in the gym (or even outside as long as you're not being destructive), so do whatever you want. But if you want to do the route that the route-setter has created, well then do the route. e: Sorry, I've had a lovely few weeks and clearly I'm responding to that by acting like an rear end in a top hat on the internet. The main reason to do the starts as they're intended (and this can even apply to not skipping holds) is that they may force you to develop skills/muscles that you otherwise might not have. Papercut fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Oct 4, 2013 |
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Oct 3, 2013 17:23
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beat9 posted:Does anyone have any good strength exercises to recommend? I've been climbing indoors for about 6 months and I'm looking to improve my core especially. I climb two or three times a week, mostly bouldering and I'd like to complement that with some strength exercises. Lately I've been finding that aside from learning a couple of neat techniques my core is probably what needs most work. Planks, side planks, L-sits, boat pose. Yoga classes are a good place to start, half of the poses in yoga involve core work. I think lifting weights is fine, lots of really good climbers in my gym do it.
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Oct 8, 2013 15:14
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SystemsAligned posted:This is a good idea! I want to meet all the ppl climbing at Planet Granite in San Francisco! I'm at PG Friday during the day, Sunday morning, and Tuesday night. Bouldering only, but if you want to teach me to belay then I'm happy to learn. I've barely been climbing at all for a few months though because I'm busy as hell and feel like I get a better quick workout in the yoga classes.
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Oct 9, 2013 15:07
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weekly font posted:Bouldering question: I've gotten to the point in about 3 months where I've started V2s. Feels good man. There are some V2s that I can do easily and there are others that I can't even start. Doesn't seem to be an inbetween. Is there something I should be focusing on or does any possible advice just boil down to "keep climbing?" Footwork/body positioning. Watch the feet of climbers who are much better than you.
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Oct 24, 2013 01:32
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Here's a fun training exercise: http://www.planetgranite.com/news/2013/12/02/wow-footwork-frenzy-with-josh/
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Dec 3, 2013 04:11
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With only 3 months climbing, I would suggest that it's more likely your footwork and body positioning that is preventing you from doing crimpy problems. I would do lots of footwork exercises and stem or drop knee problems to learn how to use everything below the waste to take weight off of your fingers. Unless you're using a hangboard for times when you can't get to the gym or outside, just going climbing is going to be a way more effective form of training.
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Dec 30, 2013 23:13
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tynam posted:For example, a V3 with a low crimp grip start - just to get on I need to somehow hold a really freakin thin edge. This is still usually an example of a footwork problem. I see beginners all the time on starts like this with their hips square to the wall, locked off with hands and feet directly in front of them. Usually they should be in something closer to a ninja pose (one leg bent under your body with a straight leg braced way out to the side).
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Dec 31, 2013 01:37
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You know how to avoid the build-up of scar tissue? I'm willing to bet most people who've had pulley injuries have tried the "just climb through it" method, because that's a lot easier than not climbing. In my experience with multiple pulley injuries, none of them serious enough to feel a pop or affect daily activities, that's a terrible approach to take (at different points I've had to take anywhere from 3-6 months off when minor discomfort turned into habitual discomfort turned into chronic pain). There are tons of ways to get blood flowing that aren't nearly as risky or tempting in terms of overuse as just climbing through pain. E: Like if you have a rotator cuff injury, the rehab isn't to just go out there and throw lightly. It's targeted, controlled exercises to rebuild the area around the injury, and only after months of that are you back to being able to pitch at all. Even if you're climbing stuff completely in your wheelhouse, fatigue or a random foot slip can easily lead to putting much more strain on the finger than intended and setback all of your rehab progress. Papercut fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jan 22, 2014 |
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Jan 22, 2014 05:16
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4R7 THi3F posted:Wait, so on some of the paths that I have seen at my gym, you are supposed to use a foothold as both a handhold and a foothold. Does that mean I'm reading the route wrong??? Is this Cliffs? I thought it closed because they didn't actually have building permits for the work and opened without getting a building inspection?
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Feb 5, 2014 21:50
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Sigmund Fraud posted:I think it would be interesting to see what you guys do to improve your climbing ability. Plateauing is a major thing that climbers worry about and since climbing requires many different skill sets and abilities it's sometimes hard to pinpoint why we stop improving. Sooo if you're interested do some self-assessment! What I do is climb harder and harder routes until I hurt myself so badly that I need to take 6 months off (usually around V5). Then I do other stuff for half a year. Repeat ad nauseam.
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Mar 12, 2014 18:02
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Men's and Women's highlights from ABS Nationals: http://vimeo.com/88063120 http://vimeo.com/88145860 These people are pretty good climbers. Also RIP Sean Leary. Guess it's inevitable when you live like these guys, but such a sad loss. This guy was incredible. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGwXbA3gMP0
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Mar 27, 2014 18:32
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hostile apostle posted:So I've been climbing, mostly boldering, about once a week for almost two months now at PG SF. Took down my first V3 today. However, I am absolutely terrible at anything with overhang. I can pretty much do any V2 without overhang, but any of the ones where you get horizontal at all, I can't even start them. PG's overhung routes are much harder than their vertical routes, yeah. Even when they are graded the same.
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Oct 6, 2014 20:24
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Bread Set Jettison posted:So a while back I tried to get back into climbing and within 2 months I hosed up a finger. I dont remember exactly what it was but I remember it being a pulley (which I had no idea where in my fingers). I rested till it was fixed and then just kind of stopped climbing. I'm now again trying to redo climbing, so are there any good stretches to avoid this injury? Your pulleys are tendons, which seem to be unaffected by static stretching; tendons respond to dynamic stretching and eccentric activities. This is why people will typically recommend warming up with plenty of easy climbs before jumping into your projects. Away from the gym, you can get a putty ball to squeeze and use a rubber band around your fingers for eccentric motions.
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Dec 9, 2014 20:51
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bartlebyshop posted:Did a "climb all the V1s and V2s, downclimbing the V1s" circuit today. Hadn't climbed for 2 weeks and I couldn't hold on to anything by the end. I always feel like complete poo poo whenever someone says "V3/V4 /5.11 should be doable in months" because it took me 2 years to get there of climbing 2-3 nights a week. Now I've been stuck in the same spot for a year (I've gotten 1 V5 in that time). If you're talking about indoors then it entirely depends on the setters. I've been to gyms where the V4s would be easy V2s at my gym. That's why you shouldn't really worry about what grade you're climbing and instead just look for problems that you like.
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Dec 18, 2014 08:11
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bartlebyshop posted:I don't think it's just extra skin? If I poke it there's a nice layer of skin on top but a definitely noticeable hard bump of what feels like bone. These old shoes lasted me 1.5 years and finally developed a toe-hole so I'm fine sticking with my new ones. But thank you for the tip! If it happens again I will keep it in mind. Is it a bunion?
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Dec 20, 2014 04:49
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spwrozek posted:Prana Zion Stretch are sweet climbing pants (and wear all the time pants, they are awesome pants). I'm wearing them right now.
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Dec 22, 2014 01:46
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Mahlertov Cocktail posted:Does anyone get lower back pain from climbing? I don't really think that it's the climbing because I last climbed on Tuesday and the back issues started up on Saturday, but I figured I'd ask. It's maybe six inches above my hips on my right side. Are you bouldering and not down-climbing? That's the only way I can see hurting your lower back climbing.
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Jan 19, 2015 18:01
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Caf posted:Prana Stretch Zion pants are the best pants by a long shot. Though sometimes I just wear jeans. Sometimes a get a little crazy and wear my Prana shorts instead of my Prana pants.
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Mar 14, 2015 05:33
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Frown Town posted:My left middle finger joint has been feeling a bit painful, especially after climbing anything particularly slopey/round. Extending super far to reach a sloper seems to exacerbate this pain (which is a thing that happens often due to being pretty short). Crimps seem to bother me less, unless I'm doing harsh diagonal stuff. Then they bug me in a similar way. From your log I get the impression that you only ever rest like 3-6 weeks and then you start climbing again even though it still hurts. That is a recipe for permanent damage. You need to listen to your body and avoid anything that causes pain until the pain is completely gone. Tendon injuries can easily take 6 months to heal. Even after you're pain free, you're supposed to wait a few weeks to resume activity. And when you do resume activity, you need to ramp it up VERY slowly.
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Mar 20, 2015 00:35
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Tarnien posted:We have this discussion every couple of months in here, and I want to put my perspective out there so that you (Frown Town) can have multiple opinions and decide for yourself. I haven't read McLeod's book so I don't know what he says, but I see no reason to trust him over medical professionals. High level athletes are more often than not the worst people to trust when it comes to how ordinary people deal with and recover from injury. This is a very thorough summary of the anatomy of the hand, types of injuries, and has plenty of links to summaries of therapy approaches: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3377907/ One of the cited articles summarizes treatment as such: quote:Holtzhausen and Noakes recommend one to two weeks of splint immobilization with the MPs in flexion and the IPs in extension or slight flexion, followed by a progressive range of motion and strengthening program with occupational therapy. Once the patient has completely pain free motion and 80% of their prior strength, usually at a minimum of 6 weeks, a gradual return to climbing is permitted. Patients are instructed to gradually increase the difficulty and duration of their climbs over an eight-week period. Patients are not permitted to use a crimp grip for a minimum of at least 6 weeks post -injury.8 Schoffl and coworkers,10 in a 2003 prospective study of 604 climbers with hand injuries, found excellent outcomes and a return to previous climbing level within one year for those without bowstringing who were treated conservatively No one is saying to immobilize for 6 months, but there are MUCH safer approaches to maintaining range of motion and rebuilding strength (finger stretching, rice bowl exercises, putty, etc) than climbing. If you absolutely must get back to climbing as quickly as possible, it can still take multiple months and you should not just jump right back into your previous project when pain is mostly gone.
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Mar 20, 2015 05:51
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SeaborneClink posted:So I'm moving to the Bay Area, whats the rock climbing scene like there? Looking for some tips both indoors and outdoors. I'll be working and probably living in the East Bay. I'm familiar with Planet Granite's offerings from their Portland location but was curious if anyone had any other suggestions or ideas. PGSF is awesome. Dogpatch Boulders is newer than PG and also supposed to be really good, but I haven't been. Castle Rock State Park is the main outdoor climbing spot for SF if you don't want to head to the Sierras.
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Nov 20, 2015 05:04
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