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i got a finger injury climbing and i will be seeing a physio next week (and probably not climbing on it until then) but i feel like maybe describing it here will garner some useful input its on the underside of my ring finger (right hand), between the last two digits. one of the tendons feels extremely tender and probably inflamed, but i get absolutely no pain or sensation by using the finger. the only pain is introduced when i actually poke, rub or apply pressure directly to the tendon itself. without thinking, i climbed on it on sunday and didn't further aggravate the injury. theres no loss of strength or mobility i think ive ruled out a pulley tear, they seem to imply lack of strength or mobility, and pain in use. this almost feels like a bruise and if i couldnt literally slide the tendon around to verify thats whats hurting i might have mistaken it for that
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Jan 31, 2017 23:33
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i dont know exactly how familiar he is with the specific type of injury but i emailed him and said "hey i think it might be this or this, im not sure" and he said he'll look into it prior to the appointment. guess we'll see i needed to talk to him about the program im using on my shoulder anyways, so this is convenient timing
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Feb 2, 2017 12:12
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after 1.5 years or so of climbing i've finally reached the point where my fingers can handle bouldering (the only climbing i do for now) more than 2-2.5 times a week, which is great. the downside is that ive developed a dull escalating pain on the outer half of my forearm and just on the edge of my bicep. i did some research on this and i think its due to overworking the other muscles in the forearm and underusing the sore ones. thus the fix seems to be "do workouts that use those muscles". the two that seemed the easiest/most sensible are reverse wrist curls and using a rubber band to constrict against me expanding my hand im not really a stranger to rehab per se, but this seems a little different and im wondering what my aim should be - should i be working these muscles as if i am directly trying to strengthen them (so progressive overload, pushing reps down) or should i be working them out like i rehabbed my shoulder injury (high reps, aiming for blood flow and daily use)? is there a reason to not do these exercises after each climbing session, and is this something i should be doing indefinitely, or ramping down once i get the pain under control? i can climb pretty easily through the pain and ive yet to get anything acute or chronic, is this a very bad idea or just a regular bad one
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Feb 10, 2018 09:17
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M. Night Skymall posted:I do the exercises and stretching listed here, but none of the other stuff. I just keep climbing on it and it clears up pretty quickly in my experience, but I've been climbing for like 15 years now and will pretty much climb through any injury at this point cause I'm dumb. As to the last paragraph I do it high rep low weight, like where it's pretty comfortable at 10-12 or so reps a set and I never feel like I'm going to fail a rep or anything. Also definitely try to do the one with the hammer (or however you want to get a bar that's only weighted on one end), that makes the biggest difference in my experience. thanks! i'm gonna give the hammer one a try Sharks Eat Bear posted:Read this if you haven’t. http://rockandice.com/climbing-injury-prevention/dodgy-elbows-revisited/ i looked at this but for the most part my elbows are actually in pretty good shape. the pain is actually in my forearms - if you hold your hands out, palm down and clench a fist, it'll likely be the strongly delineated one on the outside. i think its this one, though if it doesnt go away in 3-4 weeks with the combo of exercises im doing, i'll talk to my physio and find out for sure. that said, i'll probably give these as a try as they overlap with what the other poster said the pain on the edge of my bicep is substantially less painful than the forearm muscle, but still a constant. it was actually a lot worse a couple months ago but has died down a lot, so it might be in part due to various other half-assed rehab exercises ive done
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Feb 12, 2018 15:19
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just wanna say that ive been doing all the things people recommended for my sore arm and my sore arm stopped being sore so if you gave me advice on that issue, thank you it helped a great deal!enraged_camel posted:I have a friend who started climbing recently and she is looking to move away from the garbage shoes they rent out at the gym and buy her own pair. What are some good ones that won't break the bank? i got these when they were 90ish and i love them a lot. a friend of mine has gone through 1.5 shoes or so in the same time these have remained in excellent condition https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5044-814/Helix-Rock-Shoes i feel weird wearing laced shoes when everyone seems to have velcro ones but i dont really feel compelled to take my shoes off like i see a lot of climbers do so maybe im just weird or something Verviticus fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Feb 28, 2018 |
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Feb 28, 2018 03:07
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my fingers took like 1-1.5 years before the pain you're describing went away. i just made sure to keep climbing and take it easy on whichever finger was being an rear end in a top hat that day (if i could), and take days off if it was especially bad. im fairly heavy for a climber (205), so i figure my tendons just needed more time to strengthen and catch up to my arms/back
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Mar 3, 2018 03:43
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in ~two years, i dont think ive seen a single climber with big legs in my gym that is anything remotely approaching good at climbing i have large strong legs and it took forever for me to catch up to my featherweight completely non-athletic friend
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Mar 9, 2018 08:18
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has anyone climbed with a finger fracture? ive splinted/taped it up and im trying to decide if there's any value in going maybe 1-2 times a week when its late and just doing easy traversal stuff with the remaining 9 edit: probably should say that its my right pinky finger, fractured far away from the tip, not on the point and not displaced Verviticus fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Mar 18, 2018 |
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Mar 18, 2018 02:15
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DaNerd posted:Can you climb through it? Probably. i gave it a shot and ran into this problem. a couple times i found grabbing a hold that was pretty easy still had me flexing my finger against the split, so i dropped off. i eventually settled on repeating a few problems that had holds that did not aggravate my finger this way and got an OK workout. ill probably do it once a week and just keep doing the same problems that i know i can do without this happening Angryhead posted:My main fear with "lemme climb and just not use this one broken finger" is that I'll still reflexively use it if I feel like I'm slipping or whatever and that's so so dangerous. ya i wasnt going to do any problems i couldnt do one handed. nothing with iffy footholds and nothing that requires leaning too far to the left, basically. out of like 25 problems only 3 were really doable which is fine, im not trying to get better with a busted finger, i just want to not be inactive edit: it was definitely instructive. ive never really climbed as slowly or as deliberately, so things i might normally find really easy were more taxing and i spent a lot more time thinking about where my feet went Verviticus fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Mar 18, 2018 |
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Mar 18, 2018 06:02
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what if my goal is to just be the best indoor bouldering climber i can be with no care for the outdoors
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Mar 23, 2018 04:34
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ManMythLegend posted:Similar to this post but (anecdotally for sure) back when I was lifting regularly, and now that I'm climbing regularly, I've found that taking fish oil and turmeric daily has kept a lot of joint pain at bay. how much fish oil do you take daily for this to have an obvious effect
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Mar 24, 2018 21:32
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Verviticus posted:has anyone climbed with a finger fracture? ive splinted/taped it up and im trying to decide if there's any value in going maybe 1-2 times a week when its late and just doing easy traversal stuff with the remaining 9 five weeks later and other than a bit of finger pain, almost haven’t missed a beat. i got lucky it was a minor break and i only needed five weeks
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Apr 21, 2018 06:09
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i broke my pinky six weeks ago and started climbing again last week and man the two fingers that got immobilized are sore in the days between climbs. it hurts to use them for even lightweight day to day poo poo but if they warm up i can climb 100% on them painlessly. i can’t tell if this is good or bad. does anyone have experience with this kind of thing?
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May 5, 2018 04:10
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armorer posted:That's crazy. I've seen a lot of holds break over the years, both indoors and out, but I've never seen someone tear the t-nut through the plywood. That would make me question how the walls were built. i spin something every couple weeks but ive never seen a hold actually break
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Jul 11, 2018 05:35
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i have recurrent extensor pain that im treating with rice bucket stuff (reasonably well) and it doesn't really match up with the pain hes describing
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Jul 26, 2018 11:06
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sent is pretty drat easy to figure out. flashed is a bit weird. i dont understand the rest and i dont care to
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Aug 10, 2018 03:28
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hm, i jump off the wall all the time. i havent twisted or hurt anything yet and its always a controlled drop. a lot of the time i dont have anywhere near the energy required to climb down guess im gonna regret that one day edit: the padding at my gym is over a foot deep as well. no loving chance id drop onto gravel or some poo poo
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Oct 13, 2018 00:54
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Mons Hubris posted:Oh yeah my gym had a member appreciation event with a dyno contest and one dude was clearly getting tired at the end of his run. He lazily threw himself at one of the dynos, landed on padded floor, and snapped his shin completely in half. Not even sure how he did it but that ended the dyno contest real quick. jesus christ. i thought breaking my finger doing a small dyno was bad
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Oct 13, 2018 10:21
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decided i want to stop spinning a hold every other week and i figure i’m going to drop about 20lbs to accomplish that. other than “take it easy and don’t get hurt”, is there anything else i should know edit: i really only do indoor bouldering and no other climbing
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Nov 6, 2018 05:41
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oh yeah, sorry i should've specified - ive lost and gained weight plenty of times and am pretty good at it at this point - i was just wondering more like how it felt for people, if it really sapped their energy/recovery between sessions, if 20lbs is a noticeable on the wall, stuff like that. thats good info, thanksSound_man posted:If you aren't doing yoga start. Your balance and coordination will improve and that will help you stay controlled in your movements and not need to 'pound' holds as much. its mostly just the edges of wide foodholds and such, or something i dyno off of Verviticus fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Nov 7, 2018 |
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Nov 7, 2018 04:24
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M. Night Skymall posted:For what it's worth most professional climbers have a BMI from ~20-22, so you certainly want to be thin but not starving or anything. It's probably a bit inverse proportional to height, so the taller you are the lower you'd want to be since your tendons are only going to support so much, and the shorter you are the more muscle you're going to need to do deep lock-offs and other poo poo to get more reach. For example Adam Ondra's BMI is 19.9 at 6'1" and Alex Puccio's is 21.4 at 5'2". Sharks Eat Bear posted:I'd definitely be cautious of exercise intensity while you're trying to lose significant weight, but the energy/recovery deficit can also be mitigated through adequate protein intake (from what I've read, I wouldn't consider myself an authority on nutrition/diet by any means!). My understanding is that you want to consume ~0.7-0.9g protein per lb, so if you weigh 200 lbs then aim for ~160g protein. Here's some reading on the subject if interested: https://bayesianbodybuilding.com/the-myth-of-1glb-optimal-protein-intake-for-bodybuilders/ quote:If you're wondering whether 20 lbs is noticeable on the wall - absolutely. If you've ever experimented with climbing with a weight vest, it becomes apparent pretty quickly that any additional weight makes a difference. (Note: I wouldn't recommend actually trying this experiment unless you're fairly experienced and at a healthy weight already; added weight means more impact on your fingers while climbing and on your body while falling.) Tippecanoe posted:I lost about 40lbs before I did my first V4, so for me losing weight was the thing that caused the biggest jump in my climbing performance. I feel a lot stronger in proportion to my weight, I don't get tired/overheated as easily, and my fingers don't hurt so much on crimpy holds.
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Nov 8, 2018 01:40
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ive gotten pretty good at the falling at hitting the ground, but my brain is still terrified of the falling and hitting my head on holds or just losing all my skin. if you look at my arms and my shins its probably a good fear
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Nov 13, 2018 01:12
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for me exercise has always been the singular source of enjoyment in my life that hasnt been completely denatured, but i had a nasty habit of developing chronic injuries to major parts of my body. after hurting both knees, my lower band and tearing a rotator cuff i basically gave up until a friend told me to climb. the shoulder injury was a year prior so it didnt get antagonized and i havent broken myself too badly so its about the only outlet i have left
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Nov 19, 2018 02:36
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the bouldering gyms in/around vancouver are really good. not sure about other kinds of climbing though
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Nov 20, 2018 19:46
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there’s a new gym in clover dale but yeah the hive on industrial sucks rear end north shore hive rules edit: one thing that they do there and downtown (which is way nicer) that i see a lot of places not do is colour code the climbs instead of using tape Verviticus fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Nov 21, 2018 |
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Nov 20, 2018 22:32
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every time i think about upgrading shoes from my incredibly standard boring rear end shoes i look at a chart like that or i go to MEC and they all hurt in ways i didnt think imaginable and then i stop thinking about shoes for a while
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Dec 11, 2018 23:25
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Electoral Surgery posted:I spray my shoes with lysol as soon as I get home - it works great. i also did this exact same weight loss in this exact same timeframe, but i feel about the same edit: that said, i dropped from 210 to 195 which is somewhat likely to be a smaller fraction of my weight than you Verviticus fucked around with this message at 12:29 on Jan 17, 2019 |
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Jan 17, 2019 12:17
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enraged_camel posted:I've lost 15 pounds in 6 months. While it has made certain types of problems easier, it has also had a very noticeable effect on my energy levels. I get tired way faster for example. i think im really lucky, because even when i was on a 1000 cal deficit (for the first couple weeks i was trying to lose ~2lb a week) if anything i had more energy. now im around -400 calories and im still probably better than i was before i started losing weight kinda excited to see if going back to eating maintenance at 190 is going to increase my energy or what
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Jan 18, 2019 00:49
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Cannon_Fodder posted:https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17096.0 i had this for a long time and the two things that made it largely go away were a: rice bucket stuff and b: traversing. i originally picked up traversing just because i wanted to climb more without stressing myself, and found that it made a really big difference in how i felt a couple days later, to the point where doing a schedule of like, heavy climbing/traverse/rest, repeat was actually easier and less painful than climbing/rest/rest. the rice bucket stuff was adopted at a similar time and i focused on training my extensors, but the traversing probably was 80% of the relief its kinda weird only having sharp pain when you release a hold cause you get into odd spots where you could probably hang off of something forever and you dont really want to let go to move up
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Feb 16, 2019 00:53
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Too much skateboarding and keyboard time...
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climbing terminology is by far and away the lamest thing about the sport
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Feb 19, 2019 23:58
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what defines static movement anyways? three points of contact at all times?
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Feb 22, 2019 01:57
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has anyone here suffered a hamstring injury while heel hooking? I hurt myself doing a fairly high hook a few days ago and i'm kinda struggling to identify what i actually hurt. i can walk, run, basically sprint with no issue, but if i open up my hip so the inside of my foot is facing mostly forward, i can barely climb stairs because of a sharp pain that runs from the top half of where my hamstring is into my glutes i ask this because virtually every piece of information online suggests that i should be suffering pain just from walking or jumping or anything that uses my hamstring, but its completely unphased unless i turn my foot outwards 60 degrees and lift it a couple feet up
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Feb 27, 2019 00:59
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ive had so many insane/bad landings (all bouldering, so like 5-20 feet) without injury i feel like im due to just shatter into a million pieces falling 3 inches from an overhang i no longer remember how many times ive landed on my stomach and had the wind knocked out of me
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Mar 3, 2019 01:28
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Rolo posted:I’m thinking about getting into climbing for a few reasons. I love hiking and camping and another outdoor fun thing is always welcome. I have friends who do it, I have climbing walls in my city, mountains within a few hours and I’ve just always loved climbing on things. if you're at all mind over matter type person you might be able to work it out bouldering. a few people ive brought were casually afraid of heights and falling until id climb up and do a couple bad looking falls and be totally uninjured
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Apr 2, 2019 05:07
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KingColliwog posted:Thanks for all the inputs I appreciate the answers to my newbie questions how fit are you/how much do you weigh?
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Apr 7, 2019 08:46
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KingColliwog posted:More relevant to climbing I can do around 10 strict pull-ups (may be more, I never really tried, I just add weight when I hit 10 or do more sets) and I can do 5-6 with 35 pounds extra. I can also do pistol squats (don’t know how many, I always do sets of 5 after my front squats so I’m pretty fried already) this isnt formal or professional, but at least from my experience of climbing with a lot of people between brand new to a couple years into their training, your fingers are gonna catch up pretty quick. when i started i was 210 and stayed that way for 2-2.5 years and it took me like a year and a half for my fingers to finally catch up with everything else. i could campus stuff that decent climbers struggled to do and then id fall off of trivially easy crimp problems. at least from my observation, weight in relatively fit people (so disregarding people who are clearly overweight) has basically no correlation with how quickly someone progresses as a climber, but it seems to have a very strong correlation with the type of problems people gravitate towards. i cant give you advice on hangboarding/how to do it and i want to stay out of the fight happening in this thread, but ultimately id guess crimps won't be a major weakness for very long regardless of whether or not you do hangboarding
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Apr 8, 2019 01:47
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does anyone have any recommendations for bouldering shoes that are similar to miuras but are available in larger sizes? i’m a 46 which means 95% of shoes don’t fit
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May 1, 2019 22:13
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cant get 46s in those either. 46 is already small 
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May 2, 2019 01:56
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spwrozek posted:I think my buddy with huge feet is in some sort of scarpa. Asking him, let you know. my feet arent quite that big but i literally could not stretch a 45 force V on my feet if my life depended on it. i know at some point im gonna have to toughen up and probably just wear something small, but the majority of 45s i tried on were the same story
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May 2, 2019 09:52
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my gym (all bouldering) has a four week rotation and probably about 30-35 climbs up at any time. couldn’t imagine if it was slower
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Jun 17, 2019 21:52
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