|
Is there a video detailing the correct way to belay a toproper using an ATC? Ive been told I'm doing something wrong but half the loving videos are people arguing about where you put your hands.
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2013 06:36
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:07 |
|
|
Weird question, but are there any "must-have" pants people climb in?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2013 02:44
|
|
|
I've been toproping for awhile, but recently I've just been indoor bouldering. I think my technique is all hosed up and I'm wasting energy because I'm tiring a lot faster than when I toprope (I know it's different, but it still feels like I'm doing something wrong). Are there any videos on general technique or anything like that? I'm trying to keep my center of gravity low and keep the weight off my arms as much as possible, but I'd still like some pointers.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 16, 2013 07:17
|
|
|
Has anyone used a training board at home? Are they worth picking up for those in-between days?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2013 17:04
|
|
|
Sans actual climbing and yoga, are there any exercises you can do at home on the in-between days?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 20, 2013 05:49
|
|
|
I picked up a new pair of shoes but they dig into the back of my heel (they're not broken in yet, I know they're the right size). Should I just suck it up and throw a bandaid on it until they break in? Boreal Kryptos
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2013 19:43
|
|
|
It's right at the top edge on the back (like lower Achilles' tendon, not inside the shoe). It's from the edge rubbing, not some internal stitching. I had the fit checked, they aren't loose or anything. It's like where your Chucks would rub in the back if you weren't wearing any socks. Would one of those fat band aids be okay or would it slip off too easily? Tape it? Sack the gently caress up and deal?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2013 21:50
|
|
|
I just got back from the wall and the backs of the shoes are still chewing up my heel. Sounds like the fix is to sack the gently caress up and deal.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2013 06:51
|
|
|
Cedar shoe inserts?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 24, 2013 04:37
|
|
|
Is there such a thing as like a tiny little pouch that hooks to your harness (or somewhere) that you could put things like your phone or credit cards in? Where I climb there's no safe place to put my belongings, and my chalk bag will hold like a single small item like a wedding ring but nothing else really. Just get pants with cargo pockets?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 24, 2013 22:34
|
|
|
Speleothing posted:Get pants with pockets - I've got one of the hugest smart phones they make, and i never have a problem with it in my front pocket while I'm climbing. The leg loops actually stop it from falling out. I run back and forth from the gym so I don't have any storage that isn't on my person.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2013 00:24
|
|
|
benwards posted:If all you have is a phone, credit card, and house key, just bring one of those phone armbands with a compartment for a card and a key. Strap it out of the way on your arm while you're climbing, and try not to bang it on a hold. I actually have one of those, like a neoprene sleeve. I wasn't sure if it was a bad idea to climb with (if it got snagged or something), but I presume I could keep it up underneath my top if I had to.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 25, 2013 03:04
|
|
|
Are there any bags made for holding shoes and harnesses and poo poo, or do people just throw them in any bag? I ask because I like to keep bags with different things together, like one for hiking, paintball, biking, business meeting, etc.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2013 07:05
|
|
|
I don't think most people can do anything higher than a V1 when they start anyway, unless they already had some other sort of physical training.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2013 01:39
|
|
|
Holy poo poo http://www.etsy.com/listing/117918185/crimp-chimps-donkey-kong-stuffed-animal?ref=cat_gallery_10
|
|
#
¿
Mar 6, 2013 01:27
|
|
|
Has anyone seen/heard of a Goatse chalk bag?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 18, 2013 23:16
|
|
|
What's the sport climbing / bouldering look like at Shasta?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 21, 2013 16:15
|
|
|
My hands have been hosed up for like two weeks now too. I climb 3x a week and there's just never any time to recover. I have some balm for them I use daily, but would it be wise to take a few days off to let them heal?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2013 17:15
|
|
|
What grade should I be climbing before attempting Smith Rock? Is there somewhere to check this? edit: found a guide with routes and grades PRADA SLUT fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Mar 25, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2013 03:55
|
|
|
I've got this blister on my ankle from my shoes. What can I put on it so it doesn't bother me while I climb? Tape isn't cutting it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2013 18:29
|
|
|
I know the best way to get better is to climb, but are there any exercises that help? Core and shoulder workouts? I'm looking for something for when some reason I can't climb.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2013 08:36
|
|
|
I got a flapper on my left hand, right underneath my ring finger (where the finger connects to the hand). It was two days ago so it's healed a bit, but still there. What's the best way to tape it up so it doesn't get worse (like what directions would I go with tape, my tape always falls off and isn't effective)? I'm want to climb tonight and will try to avoid jugs with it.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2013 20:37
|
|
|
armorer posted:I know it isn't what you want to hear, but I never had good luck taping them. That is an incredibly awkward place to tape, and as your hand sweats the tape will almost certainly release. The only bright side is that I haven't had a flapper in ages - Basically since I stopped climbing juggy stuff. The only way I've been able to do it is take two pieces of tape on either side of the ring finger and running them all the way down to my wrist, then taping my wrist and taping a ring around my palm and back of my hand. It's awkward and uses a bunch of tape, but it has worked before. jiggerypokery posted:Don't tape tear off any flapping skin and let it dry. Keep it clean but try to avoid getting it wet. Don't use plasters or any thing, the more air it gets the drier it will be and the quicker it will heal. I was going to tape it just for a few hours while climbing. During the day I just put a loose band-aid over it so it can breathe but won't get indadvertedly bumped or anything. I put a tiny piece of gauze over the wound itself so it doesn't get tape stuck to it.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2013 21:28
|
|
|
Whet do you get boot bananas in the US?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2013 18:43
|
|
|
Looks like REI is having a sale coming up: GriGri2 $74 Tarantulace $64 Bluewater non-dry 10.2 rope $145 And 20-25% off Petzl helmets and BD harnesses, (and slacklines)
|
|
#
¿
May 11, 2013 04:08
|
|
|
While I'm sure that technically that harness is safe, you will look completely ridiculous, probably get laughed out of the gym, and it might actually hinder you down the road because it might restrict your upper body motions. I'm not even sure if the gym would let you wear that, gyms tend to be pretty strict on what's allowed or not allowed safety-wise (insurance reasons). I would call ahead and ask. Petzl makes climbing harnesses though, and they aren't that much. http://www.rei.com/product/809271/petzl-corax-climbing-harness Black Diamond harnesses are on sale this week at REI as well: http://www.rei.com/product/819452/black-diamond-momentum-sa-climbing-harness Most gyms will let you rent a harness for a few bucks too, so you don't even need to bring your own.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2013 04:38
|
|
|
The Circuit is huge and awesome and two locations though. Whaaaat Planet Granite is opening a Portland location. I have one of their belay cards from California :streetcred:
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2013 00:41
|
|
|
There's a yoga studio around here that's $145/mo. Just yoga.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2013 00:56
|
|
|
Miuras or Solutions?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 22, 2013 15:34
|
|
|
Sharma is going to be at Portland Rock Gym August 8th
|
|
#
¿
Jul 21, 2013 07:43
|
|
|
I have some of the Metoulius balm and I think it's fine as a moisturizer, but I doubt there's any serious medical benefits. It feels nice on my hands at the end of the day.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 28, 2013 02:26
|
|
|
Know how to spot and realize you typically lose 1-2 grades outside.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2013 08:57
|
|
|
Cedar chips/inserts.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 2, 2013 20:10
|
|
|
Go to a climbing shop or REI and have them fit you. Spend the extra couple bucks to make sure you've got a good fit.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 6, 2013 18:51
|
|
|
The balls of my feet hurt when I started wearing toe shoes (not climbing) and it just went away after a week.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 22, 2013 19:56
|
|
|
Is it your tendons?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 17, 2013 02:00
|
|
|
Shine posted:Does anybody else climb at Portland Rock Gym? I do sometimes, I go to the Circuit a lot more though since I usually climb alone and the handful of auto belays and little bouldering area at PRG isn't usually worth it to me. The Circuit is having the Portland Bouldering Rally this weekend.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2013 21:01
|
|
|
Shine posted:I'm more into roped climbing so I got a membership at PRG. I'll check out The Circuit one of these days. I've always kinda ignored bouldering, so even when I was topping 5.12 and leading 5.11, I was struggling with V4 I don't think bouldering is easier or harder or whatever but I think that it's a lot more dynamic and the motion ranges and moves tend to be more broad, whereas the toprope is a lot more straightforward. It's like bouldering just takes the crux of a problem and removes all the endurance from getting up to that part. When I started bouldering (over toprope) more I realized that my core and grip was a lot weaker than I thought it was. You should visit the Portland Bouldering Rally at the Circuit this Saturday. You don't have to climb, but at least you can check out the gym (and watch some climbing). I go there because there's a bunch of different types of climbing, including some like 20 foot walls that feel like a short toprope. I was a bouldering hater until I went to The Circuit and that's my primary hangout now. It seems like all the bouldering at PRG is a bunch of underhangs and it almost makes it artificially difficult. I didn't think the route setting was very interesting, comparatively. I still visit PRG here and there but it's more of like training for smith or whatever. http://www.portlandboulderrally.com PRADA SLUT fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Oct 11, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Oct 11, 2013 00:28
|
|
.
|
I climb in compression tops. More durable than wool, although I like wool and would wear it otherwise.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 11, 2013 23:21
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:07 |
|
|
I have some Metolius hand balm, and while I like it, it doesn't seem to be the cheapest around. Is there anything similar that anyone would recommend that I could throw in my climbing bag and put on after I leave the gym?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 5, 2014 11:29
|
|