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whiskas
May 30, 2005
Thanks for the writeup, as an owner of a red 2003 S2000, this made me appreciate my car a whole lot more. Honda did a really thorough job designing this car and it shows.

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whiskas
May 30, 2005
I have a spare AP1 flywheel if you're interested.

whiskas
May 30, 2005
Unless the OP relives the fast and furious everyday, you can drive an S2000 under 6000rpm without touching VTEC at all. It pretty much drives like a cramped, stiffly sprung civic.

If anyone says their S2000 doesn't burn oil it's because they're either never touching VTEC, or they're lying. Basically any DOHC VTEC engine that Honda makes will burn a little bit of oil while in VTEC.

In winter when I don't dare go over 4000rpm, I won't burn a drop of oil, but in summer when I'm hitting VTEC to goto the grocery store, pull into my garage, or parallel park, then I have to check my oil every time I fill up my gas tank.

whiskas
May 30, 2005
It's a very common issue with AP1 valve retainers. Make sure you get replacements for an AP2, they fixed the issue.

When you look at center of the retainer you can tell that it is cracked if the valve stem is recessed into the retainer.

whiskas
May 30, 2005
Rule of thumb: if there are any discrepancies when measuring your oil level, always use the lowest measurement.

Just use the oil the manual recommends 5W40 if you're in a colder climate, and 10W30 (I think? You should double check that) if you're in a warmer climate. Synthetic is nice if you can afford it.

whiskas
May 30, 2005
Yes it does, I believe the difference between the full mark and low mark is about 1 quart. So pour half a quart in there, give it a few minutes to make it into the pan and see where you're at.

whiskas
May 30, 2005
Honda's cars are entirely metric. Well, except for maybe the wheel diameter. And I suppose the speedometer depending on where you live. But everything else is metric.

After all, lets not forget:

whiskas fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Jan 21, 2013

whiskas
May 30, 2005
So what's the news on those bearings?

whiskas
May 30, 2005
The true test is to see if pieces shoot out of the engine when you hit 9000rpm. That's where adhering to those torque specs pays off.

whiskas
May 30, 2005

Adiabatic posted:

The aforementioned SV650, though its on a trailer behind my buddy's jeep.

I tooled around on it in the neighborhood yesterday and I'm in love. Bikes are awesome. Anyone want an S2000?

As a fellow S2000 owner taking his motorcycle course soon, do you see yourself seeing the bike as a replacement for the S2000? I'm worried I'll never drive it after I experience what a bike is like.

whiskas
May 30, 2005
Take a voltmeter to the starter (the thick rear end red cable going into it, and a ground) and you're getting a minimum of 12V, chances are you have a lovely ground or connection somewhere. The clacking noise you hear is the drive gear not having enough power to fully extend and just uselessly spins against the flywheel.

whiskas
May 30, 2005
Ahhhh replacing the clutch. I took one look at the FSM on how to do it and nope'd the hell out the moment I saw the witchcraft required to remove the starter and the loosen the top bellhousing bolts.

If you're looking for parts I got my OEM replacement from these guys, A+++++++ would buy again

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2009-H...c132c93&vxp=mtr

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whiskas
May 30, 2005
The main reason I (and I assume many other people) do my own work on my car is because I want to be able to it right the first time. Mechanics at dealerships have to compete with hours on the book and will take shortcuts or half rear end their way through a job to get it done in the time allocated. My S2000 has been at a shop twice, and both times I uncovered poo poo the mechanic did that I would have never tolerated. Things like broken clips, installing the window bumper stop upside down, duct taping the moisture barrier to the door. These cars don't show up in shops frequently so mechanics won't take the time to study the proper steps to get a job done.

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