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wouldn't marrettes be really bad in a high vibration environment? Someone should invent a thing where it's a metal tube, that you could insert stranded wire into both ends and crimp down on them. Then the physical pressure of the crimping would form a molecular level bond with the wire. And that's not even the clever part! The clever part is that you then put the entire assembly in pre-applied and cut heat shrink so you can make it even more moisture and vibration resistant. It's a shame such a thing doesn't exist.
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May 17, 2023 19:43
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I know right? Such a shame no one makes those.Jonny Nox posted:wouldn't marrettes be really bad in a high vibration environment? Yes, but Jethro the Truck Fuckler considers such high-falutin' ideas to be communism, now pass me the wire nuts.
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May 18, 2023 00:08
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I think they're pretty good for vibration, there's a lot of peckerheads on rattly old motors with bad bearings keeping everything in contact. They're also a great warning that you need to start ripping out and redoing wires when you see them on a car.
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May 18, 2023 11:39
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That is spectacularly lovely wiring. Anything that looks worse than my first attempt to wire up a fuzz pedal in high school deserves a Darwin award and a kick in the rear end.
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May 18, 2023 12:46
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That's actually making it look better than it does under the dash because this cluefuck cut his 18ga primary wire into like, 12-18in lengths for no reason and then twisted it back together by hand to make longer lengths and very loosely, badly electrical taped it at the splices, sometimes. There's also like 36 inches of that nonsense connecting a wire he melted with a 40 amp fuse and then cut, to another wire he melted with a 40 amp fuse and then cut. The two wires are not the same color code. They are maybe 12 inches apart. The rest of the dangly patched together hillbilly wiring abortion is simply balled up and then shoved in the underside of the dash and kick panel where it can get chewed on by the parking brake pedal assembly. It doesn't run anything important, just all of the marker lights. No big deal. Someone give me his name and address. I just wanna talk.
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May 18, 2023 17:39
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kastein posted:Someone give me his name and address. I just wanna talk. Talk. Sure. POs. They're all the same. 
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May 18, 2023 17:46
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This is why I only use fresh, clean Romex scraps for all my car wiring needs.
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May 19, 2023 07:12
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kastein posted:I can 3d model about as well as I can paint, which is to say, if it's not perfect circles and straight lines on integer multiple of 45 degree angles, I'm useless. Everything I design comes out looking like a PCB whether it's meant to or not. Yeah, I get you. Prototype iteration has certainly been a thing with my printed parts. kastein posted:e: also, petcock! That brings back a moment in time. Jonny Nox posted:wouldn't marrettes be really bad in a high vibration environment? If not that, maybe if there were some heat activated metal that could fuse other metal things together, coupled with a polymer coating that could be heat-activated to seal up the repair. Science Fiction stuff! Elviscat posted:This is why I only use fresh, clean Romex scraps for all my car wiring needs. Don't you make me come up ther.
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May 19, 2023 22:52
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Elviscat posted:This is why I only use fresh, clean Romex scraps for all my car wiring needs. Don't forget I know where you live  (I kid, I kid)
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May 20, 2023 00:32
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kastein posted:Don't forget I know where you live You're threatening to steal my Romex stash! 
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May 21, 2023 23:50
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kastein posted:Someone give me his name and address. I just wanna talk. Wait how many POs did it have, might be a long list of names 
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May 22, 2023 02:06
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At least 2, the guy before me hopscotched the title to me. I don't think it was him because he basically didn't do anything to it as far as I could tell, just bought it then realized it was way more of a project than he wanted to deal with and immediately sold it.
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May 22, 2023 05:56
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Well it looks like my shitbox Comanche trailer is getting bagged because I put like 600-800lb of tools in it and it's on the bumpstops and I have neither the time nor money to put metric ton leafs in the thing right now. Yes, I have likely already considered the idea you are thinking of right now. I am also very cross about this because I should have realized the 37 year old factory springs in the MJ trailer were shithammered a long rear end time ago and yet I did not and now it's my problem that I created for myself and ignored until it was too late to fix it right. So hopefully my local spring shop has decent prices on some decent 2600lb bags because all the online sellers either can't get them to me fast enough or have completely nonsense worthless information on their listing or are selling 1 bolt bottom 2600lb bags not 2 or 3 bolt bottom ones like I need.
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May 30, 2023 08:21
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kastein posted:Well it looks like my shitbox Comanche trailer is getting bagged Make sure you don't forget the titanium frame sliders.
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May 30, 2023 11:54
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kastein posted:Well it looks like my shitbox Comanche trailer is getting bagged because I put like 600-800lb of tools in it and it's on the bumpstops and I have neither the time nor money to put metric ton leafs in the thing right now. if you're in a pinch, what about just adding some coil springs from the junk yard instead of bags.
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May 30, 2023 15:03
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I considered: - coil helpers (not enough space, it'll be in coil bind immediately even if I found some with the right rate) - leaf helpers, new leafs, etc (too much money or too much time waiting for them to arrive, and too much of a can of worms to install on a 37 year old rusty suspension the day after I'm supposed to have left on a trip) - just run it (last time I tried this with this trailer and a heavy load, I drat near died the first time I hit a pothole) - blocks or axle flip (blocks will lower it, axle flip will lift it but it'll still have totally worn out leafs and zero stability, just with a higher COG) - move cargo to truck (can't, the actual heavy cargo is going in the truck, this was supposed to be the light cargo) - re-arch leafs (all the same problems as leaf helpers or new leafs, plus the fact that these are probably worn beyond being able to be re-arched) - curse my bad choices (done, ineffective) - cry (last resort, also likely ineffective) - airbags (will help with height, not sure about stability, likely course of action if I can find some, think I've got a set lined up in a few hours) - a few other things too but I can't even remember them all
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May 30, 2023 18:27
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Air shocks? Does anyone still make the shocks with helper coil springs built on (which would technically be coil overs…)?
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May 30, 2023 18:34
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I'd love those, but I couldn't find any with a high enough spring rate, in the right size, that could be delivered in time.
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May 30, 2023 18:41
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Set of monroe air shocks or maybe a set of sumosprings if you don't want to have air?
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May 30, 2023 18:54
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kastein posted:I'd love those, but I couldn't find any with a high enough spring rate, in the right size, that could be delivered in time. Of course not. That would be convenient. I figured as much - you did say you thought of everything we're thinking of...
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May 30, 2023 23:30
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Just jam a couple basketballs up in there. For real though, i don't know how trailer regos work up there, but around here any trailer with a vin is worth money, and worth putting a little money into. There might be a cheaper source for the length of leafs you need. Powershift fucked around with this message at 23:44 on May 30, 2023 |
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May 30, 2023 23:42
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Have you thought about getting a properly rated trailer, maybe a dual axle, and putting the Comanche bed trailer on that? I'm a little worried that it's going to be too sketchy to get you across the country no matter what you do to it.
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May 31, 2023 04:17
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Sumo springs look to be out of my budget right now (I'm broke as poo poo ATM) but Monroe air shocks might work... If they made them for this application  Darchangel, I was actually just proven wrong - I didn't think of air shocks (though they aren't available in the correct length sadly) OR sumo springs (which are out of price range). Powershift - this one's home built and under a certain weight so while I was assigned a vin, they didn't care enough to stamp it on the frame. I likely will one day. But because it's the back half of a Comanche, it requires special Comanche-only leafs that cost 260 to 400 a set before shipping, and that's not really in budget right now either. So I did the next best thing... Which was $150 worth of used marketplace airbags intended for an F150. I'll install em tomorrow and see how it does, if it doesn't handle it, I've got a sway bar lined up for free from a friend that should finish taming it.
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May 31, 2023 04:24
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You've already bought the bags, so likely irrelevant, but if for some reason the bags don't work out, check the measurements on the Gabriel 49311 or maybe Monroe MA728.
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May 31, 2023 13:41
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Oh yeah, those would have been much easier. I'm curious how much they would have been able to help but not curious enough to swap to them now, oh well. Maybe next time these fail. $150 worth of marketplace junk:  Test fit. Yeah I think I can make this work. These bags (airlift 5813) have an integral bumpstop so I don't mind them being real close to bottoming out when it's sitting on the factory bumpstops.  Grab the closest hole saw I own (2.5", d35 axle tubes are 2.625") and use it and the angle grinder and bandsaw to make a set of axle pads for the bags.  Test fit again. Apparently 2.5" hole saw = 2.625" axle tube because these things fit great.  Weld them on (badly.) Don't care. Just needs to not fall off under compression and I think it'll be fine.   Test fit again with 3 inches of blocking under the bumpstops so it's closer to ride height.  It's 3am and now it's time to work on the upper mounts. I didn't have the materials to do it how I wanted so this isn't great but it'll work. The flat plate is quarter inch and has a piece of 1.5x0.5 bar stock tack welded to it in a spot where it bears directly on the bottom of the frame crossmember and it's all held in by the bumpstop bolts and washer stacks to get the right height without the bag bolt heads crashing into the frame. Not great, not terrible. Time to pump this bag up and get my tire jack back out.  Why I needed the bar stock added.  This sides done .  Sitting much better.   I finished up around 6am. Then started reorganizing my tools and packing them into the truck. Still working on that and napping occasionally because holy poo poo am I tired, it turns out I'm not 25 anymore.
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Jun 1, 2023 23:39
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It's a trailer - that'll do. Also, I feel the "I'm not 25 any more."
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Jun 2, 2023 18:48
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If you ask for a pre-purchase inspection and they give you a list of all the things wrong with a car is it usual for that to be all there is or should they be giving you a general ballpark estimate of what it costs to fix things too? I very much assumed the latter but certainly not what I got from this mechanic! I'm wanting to sell this 1995 Jeep YJ Sport (or Sahara?) I have that is barely driven and has basically just been sitting around for most of a year. I decided to take it to a mechanic, been around for decades, very reputable on google at least for essentially a pre-purchase inspection so that: * I know all the things wrong with the car to tell to a potential buyer. * I'm not accidentally selling someone a car that is fundamentally unsafe to drive. * I can get a feel for how much to price the car at, with my thinking being vaguely "what folks are selling similar ones for, less the cost for all the major things that need to be fixed" So I get this laundry list of problems back, many of these things I know about, and some of them unsurprising given that they're essentially "this part is rusted out" and that doesn't seem terribly surprising given the car has been sitting on the side of the road for months in a very rainy place. The guy reads over the phone to me all the problems, like "Radiator rusted needs replacing", etc, but no numbers. Weird? normal? So here's the slightly surprising and maybe weird thing, is that he says, "so you were looking to sell this right? well it just so happens I have this cabin up north, and [story about how he has a suzuki sidekick that doesn't work something something] and so your car might be a good fix to replace it. How much are you thinking of selling it for?" Well damnit I mean, ok possibly good that someone wants to buy this heap of junk, but I was coming to you for the help in objectively valuing the thing! So I just sort of dodge the question around the price because I'm like well I need to know what it costs to replace all this stuff in order to value the car, and he says well he can assemble that, but he's heading off for a long weekend break and will be back on Tuesday. It occurs the next to me the next day like, "wait what did I just pay for? an inspection with only the most vaguest of information?" and I decide to call the next day and talk with his colleague and see if his collague can get me numbers and details for this stuff and he says he'll look into it, but he didn't do the inspection and I haven't heard back. Who on earth schedules an inspection, then runs out on it because they have holiday? wth. Anyway the mild weirdness of all this certainly made me think a bit "wait is this some scam?" but I don't know if this is actually just the typical thing, that asking for more concrete price information of repairs is An Extra Step and requires more work, as if I'm absolutely supposed to implicitly know the implications and cost of replacing a radiator in a 1995 jeep. As I said before this is a place that's been operating for decades and with great reviews so it would be surprising to me if there are any shenanigans here where the guy is pitching me some false list in hopes of scooping up a jeep for nothing. The thing does have rust and so that there are many problems is not too surprising at all. I suppose today I can get under the jeep and have a look for myself to confirm some things. Reason I posted this here in this thread was beyond just the general ask of whether the actions of this mechanic are normal, is whether anyone had either 1) ideas around the effort/price of certain things or better yet 2) how I should go about checking this guys' work when he gets back to me. I suppose I can at the very least source what the parts cost? Some of the more significant underlined issues cited here (either because of cost or safety/severity/importance) are: * radiator bad (rusted fins) * shocks should be replaced * brake fluid flush (more than 4% water) * brake lines rusted * front axel u joint rusted * body mounts rusted driver side * water pump leak starting * oil leak in steering Many of these points are like literally just like one line points with no explanation lol. Just so bad man it's wild the lack of detail and effort here. Again not sure if like he was going to do more work here in writing something up, or all an inspection gets you is a conversation over the phone around a high level hit list of problems and its expected that I need to do all the leg work to figure out what this all means. Femtosecond fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jun 2, 2023 |
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Jun 2, 2023 19:20
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kastein posted:I finished up around 6am. Then started reorganizing my tools and packing them into the truck. Still working on that and napping occasionally because holy poo poo am I tired, it turns out I'm not 25 anymore. Looks like it turned out pretty good. You take it for a test drive? Femtosecond posted:Many of these points are like literally just like one line points with no explanation lol. Just so bad man it's wild the lack of detail and effort here. Again not sure if like he was going to do more work here in writing something up, or all an inspection gets you is a conversation over the phone around a high level hit list of problems and its expected that I need to do all the leg work to figure out what this all means. He's hustling you. Laundry list of nonsense poo poo to make it sound like he's doing you a favor buying it from you for peanuts. Just price it similarly to other YJs listed in your area and consider the inspection fee a lesson learned.
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Jun 2, 2023 20:10
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I did! It made it 25 miles from my shop so far. Tows smooth and level up to 60 or so, I have neither the fortitude nor the need to try any faster than that as this thing is pretty close to maxed out on gvwr and has brakes designed in 1995. This isn't really the Jeep mega thread (we do have one, but I guess this one's big enough at this point it's easy to get confused) but yeah, it's a 28 year old Jeep, it's gonna have some issues and anyone buying should be aware of that already. List it priced similar to other 90s YJs (the 80s ones came with a carb and TBI, the 90s ones were way better, and 95 had a few improvements over even the 91-94s) and sell it. Most of the issues you listed sure sound like you're describing a YJ to me, that's just how they are by this point. Personally if I was looking to buy a YJ right now that looks like 2 weekends of leisurely repairs, I've done all of those things on other vehicles. The frame isn't about to snap in half from rust which is absolutely a thing on YJs at this point and has been for 15-20 years, in fact, you will find stories of me fixing a severely rusted YJ frame and replacing its transmission in this very thread in approximately the spring 2013 timeframe. E: right here https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3527505&pagenumber=4&perpage=40&userid=0#post414594281 kastein fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Jun 2, 2023 |
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Jun 2, 2023 22:30
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ugh you're right so sorry I wasn't reading closely enough and posted in the wrong thread. ugh. Thx for the advice tho
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Jun 2, 2023 22:53
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Here's my funny YJ story. My sister had a friend in college with one, we're in new england. They were stranded on the side of the road because something made a loud noise and broke. I said oh the transfer case probably fell out over the phone. They looked and of course the transfer case had hosed right off as the mount rusted off the frame.
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Jun 3, 2023 00:55
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I have a funny YJ story too, my cousin got one towards the end of high school on 33s with a mild lift and nothing else. He pulled up to the house one day and we were looking at it and the light hit the back of the frame just right and displayed just how little metal was holding the rear leaf mounts on. We made him park it immediately and that turned into chopping the back of the frame off, splicing in repair sections, building an entirely new rear crossmember, and then his 2.5 died within a week of finishing all of that. Ended up getting a few cheap junkyard 302s, building one out of all the good parts of each, adapting a t18 we had laying around to the 231 and then getting driveshafts made, and now it sits a lot (which is good because the D35 is a ticking timebomb). I kind of want it to put back to factory height and an 8.8 under for zooming around in a dumb v8 clown car. Always a fan of your thread here Kastein, you remind me often that sometimes "good enough" is truly good enough.
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Jun 8, 2023 13:54
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I was literally about to suggest an 8.8 while reading that. A 97+ 29 spline 8.25 out of an XJ is also a good fit, in fact better than an 8.8, just marginally weaker.
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Jun 10, 2023 08:15
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Got the new fuel pump assembly into the Honcho today along with the new fuel pump hold down plate I had made by sendcutsend 6 months ago. Turns out I screwed up on my measurements for that though so I had to drill my beautiful laser cut 5/16" bolt holes out to 7/16" to make them line up with the holes in the pump mounting flange. I don't think I'm going to bother respinning the part as it works fine and the oversize holes aren't visible under the washers and bolts. It still rips. Feels way faster having spent an entire week driving a 177hp MJ with about 3000lb of trailer and cargo on it.
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Jun 14, 2023 06:28
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Just for my own future reference and anyone else doing an LS swap and adapting their gauges to the LS ECU instead of running dual senders, here are some useful OBD2 PID additions in torque and your GM class 2 serial interpretation hardware: Oil pressure PID 22115c Minimum value 0.0 Maximum value 100.0 Scale factor 1x Unit of measure psi Equation (A*0.65)-17.5 OBD header to use "Auto" (no quotes, case sensitive, don't ask me why) Fuel level (raw ADC value into ECU, primary tank sensor) PID 221155 Minimum value 0.0 Maximum value 255.0 Scale factor 1x Unit of measure LSB Equation A OBD header to use "Auto" (I'm guessing secondary tank sensor is the same but PID 221156... But I am not set up to verify this yet. Gmt800 people, any chance you feel like testing that theory on your next fill up?) Fuel level (calibrated by ECU) PID 2212C5 Minimum value 0.0 Maximum value 100.0 Scale factor 1x Unit of measure % Equation A*100/255 OBD header to use "Auto" For the first time in 3 years I have *some way* to read fuel level in the main fuel cell without popping the cap. I should have done that sooner but it was low on my list. Eventually I need a way to read the aux tank as well but that can wait... And I need to calibrate the main tanks level curve in hptuners still. Edit: God damnit, that fuel level PID is actually the raw fuel tank level sender ADC value, from 0-255/0-100%. I'm still looking for the correct PID for the ECU calibrated output that the factory instrument panel would be using. I just spent 2 hours fiddle loving with hptuners only to find out that I was calibrating something that Torque gives zero fucks about. Edit 2: found the correct PID! And tested it. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Jul 10, 2023 |
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Jul 9, 2023 03:53
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Sold my Grand Wagoneer and lift. The lift I don't regret at all, I will buy a nicer one in Washington for less money added than it would have cost me to ship it west. The Grand Wagoneer I listed on Facebook for $2k which is only a little less than I had into it, needing all new suspension and frame, and got FORTY SIX different people trying to buy it off me in 24 hours. Someone paid 600 dollars to have a transporter bring it to them for full asking price. After listing it I found out that material alone to reupholster seats to OEM spec would be $6k+S&H and the seats in it have only 30k miles on them and barely look farted in, so the seats alone were honestly probably worth significantly more than I sold it for. Think I underpriced it by a lot. Oh well, it went to hopefully a good home. We don't really need a 4x4 wagon out here given the lack of anything resembling winter and that was its purpose in life. The hangar is no more. I'll miss that janky rear end place and having my own private quarter mile drag strip directly in front of my shop. I won't miss the fact that it was falling down or that it rained indoors nearly as much as it rained outside.
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Aug 2, 2023 19:36
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More OBD2 PID data... This one is the factory gmt800 secondary fuel tank level sensor. It's what indexes into the tables marked "secondary volume" and "secondary volume gauge" in hptuners. It's not at the address I expected but now that I have it I don't really care why it's at a wacky address. Fuel level (raw ADC value into ECU, secondary tank sensor) PID 221338 Minimum value 0.0 Maximum value 255.0 Scale factor 1x Unit of measure LSB Equation A OBD header to use "Auto" I hit the junkyard for a spare set of ECU plugs to practice on and pull the spare pigtails from for the secondary fuel pump coil trigger and secondary fuel level sensor input. Then installed them in the connector... Secondary level sensor is C2 (green) pin 73 and relay trigger is C2 (green) pin 3.  Added the PID to torque and a gauge to see it with: (it's pulled high to AVref with a 250ish ohm resistor, so it should show around 0xFF)  (Lower left square display) Shorted it to ground temporarily to check if it would read 0V correctly and it does:  So now that I know that will work, I hit the junkyard for a 1987 E250 external mounted fuel pump. They're cheap on Amazon but I wanted all the fittings, connectors, mounting bracket, etc. At this point all I need is a few things to fabricate my final evap charcoal canister and solenoid mounting bracket and I'll properly form the lines for that, mount the secondary-primary transfer pump to it, plumb it all, and swap the visual gauge from my aux tank and the 0-90 ohm sender from my fuel cell, then wire that to the secondary tank level sensor input, calibrate it, and the ECU should automatically take the fuel quantities in each tank into account when driving the fuel gauge output*, as well as auto managing transfer from the aux tank to main when needed. I mean I could do this the easy way, but that's no fun, right? * I'm not sure if the fuel gauge output actually exists on my ECU but I'm actively researching this. If it does I think I can calibrate it correctly, if it doesn't I'll have finish the PCB artwork for one of my long term projects that will feed the other factory FSJ gauges off of the GM class 2 serial data bus.
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Sep 7, 2023 02:47
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Ugh, it turns out every company has used ~10% inflation as an excuse to loving jack prices 400% since I last checked small gasket prices so I have a choice between buying two sender gaskets for $10 each (or pay 1/4 that and have rockauto ship them fedex so they never actually arrive at my address after giving the other 75% to fedex for the honor), or buy a 240-33 ohm sender on JeffMart for $20 that comes with a gasket. Guess it's getting a new sender with a larger resistance range so I'll be able to get a good calibration out of it after all. Regarding calibrating senders in hptuners - a friend saw this post and asked if 0-90 will work with modern LS ECUs. Yes, kind of. LS ECUs essentially just have a 5V Vref for the ADCs and most sensors, and in this case a 250 ohm pull-up in series with the sender. The sender from the factory is 250-40 ohm, which means you'll get around (250/(250+250) - 40/(40+250)) * 256 or 93 ADC counts from empty to full. A 0-90 sender instead will give you 256*90/(250+90) or 68 ADC counts, only about 73% as much granularity as factory, so it'll work but it's not ideal. Meanwhile 240-33 sender should give me drat near factory accuracy, just need a slightly different calibration to linearize it which I was going to need anyways since the tank it's going in is wildly differently shaped from the factory tank. The way the hardware works is pretty simple. From there it gets complicated because the world is not simple, get used to it. The 8 bit ADC values are used as indexes into a single dimensional table (well, 4 of them, for 2 senders, but we'll go over that later) that converts the raw ADC byte value into a gallon count for that particular tank. There are two tables per tank for reasons I'm not 100% sure of yet, and two tanks resulting in 4 total tables for linearization, once the two tank values are linearized by the 4 tables they simply get added together and then that is reported over the various data buses as the current amount of fuel on board as a 1 byte "percentage" (except 0-255 instead of 0-100). The fifth table is used to take this value and convert it into a PWM duty cycle for connector 2 (red/green) pin 38 if you are using that pin to drive an old style thermal or resistance based factory gauge, which I intend to at least try. I'm not sure that'll work yet. Once I figure out how to use the *five* tables relating to fuel sender and gauge calibration in P01/P59 ECUs I'll probably throw together a quick guide on it since I can't find that information anywhere. I've got my primary tank sender working pretty well for the half rear end job I did but I intend to do a more careful job of it on both tanks once I have it all wired up since, well, I want it to be perfect if possible. If anyone knows the difference between the two tables for each sender linearization I would love to hear it. For each tank there is a "xxx Volume" and a "xxx Volume gauge" table. I'm guessing that the one with the gauge suffix affects the gauge, while the other one affects... who knows what? Maybe just OBD2/SAE J2178-3 command $82/status $83 data values? Maybe it affects the evap system's knowledge of the remaining tank volume for leak detection? Maybe it allows the ECU to mute random misfire code reporting when it knows fuel is dangerously low and you request a fuckload of torque very suddenly and slosh the tank around? Maybe it affects DTE calculations for the console message center? Who loving knows, not me, but I want to change that.
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Sep 8, 2023 10:41
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kastein posted:Ugh, it turns out every company has used ~10% inflation as an excuse to loving jack prices 400% since I last checked small gasket prices so I have a choice between buying two sender gaskets for $10 each (or pay 1/4 that and have rockauto ship them fedex so they never actually arrive at my address after giving the other 75% to fedex for the honor), or buy a 240-33 ohm sender on JeffMart for $20 that comes with a gasket. Guess it's getting a new sender with a larger resistance range so I'll be able to get a good calibration out of it after all. It doesn't have something like a temperature sensor on the fuel rail used to interpolate between the two tables for temp? Is the second table some sort of second order coefficient for reasons?
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Sep 8, 2023 15:16
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kastein posted:If anyone knows the difference between the two tables for each sender linearization I would love to hear it. For each tank there is a "xxx Volume" and a "xxx Volume gauge" table. I'm guessing that the one with the gauge suffix affects the gauge, while the other one affects... who knows what?
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Sep 8, 2023 16:19
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