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There's a 90 XJ at the LKQ self service yard here, but I have no idea how complete it is (probably not very since it's been in the yard since December). I need to do a junkyard run anyway though, I'll look at it for you if you want. I checked the other self service yards here and didn't see any that were old enough (weirdly, the really big one has one, single Cherokee, and it's much newer than an XJ, while LKQ has like a dozen XJs and ZJs... they're just mostly later models). VIN is 1J4FT58L7LL163514 if you can figure out what engine it has from that. Gimme a list of tools I'll need to pull it if it's still there. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Mar 23, 2023 |
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Mar 23, 2023 01:36
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kastein posted:
Two Volvo rails.
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Mar 23, 2023 02:30
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STR, thanks, but I managed to half rear end it and my local Jeep used parts emporium (the one that isn't me) replied at 1AM and told me he has one on the shelf for me. So no need to go out of your way! CSB, I actually had two of them sitting there and I wanted to so badly because the Volvo rails are a work of art compared to the Jeep ones. But the port spacing is all wrong, sadly. So here's how the last 11 hours went: 4ish PM: I realize it's the nicest day of the week weather wise and I finally got my hands on all the injectors I needed to fix the fuel leak on the blue MJ, which either needs injectors or injector o rings, at which point I'm doing injectors anyways since it's the same amount of work. I go to the hangar to do them. Good thing, too. I finish unloading all the stuff I brought with me for temp storage reasons and start in on it. Let's see whether it's injectors or o rings first out of curiosity. Jump the fuel pump relay and... gently caress. It's a cracked braze on the fuel injector rail assembly. The one that only fits 87 through 90 4.0L Cherokees and Comanches. There are zero in the junkyard within 100 miles. One at horseheads in Elmira NY but that does me no good. So I make a panicked parts availability post on FB and my friend Jay from 2 towns over offers to lend me his if I end up totally screwed, and he can deliver it, worst case. Ok, that's close enough, let's see if I can fix this now that I know I won't be stranded if I totally ruin it. Pull the injector rail off, pull every injector out, plus the fuel pressure regulator. Wire brush it clean. Practice brazing on a random junk fuel pump assembly I had lying around. Didn't burn a hole in it so let's get this show on the road. Ok, brazing looks solid, if a bit ugly:   Clean all my junkyard Volvo injectors up since the factory jeep ones were suspect anyways and stick the new o rings on them since the old ones are VERY crusty. Stick them in the rail, clean the intake port holes and stick it all back in. Start it up. Everything seems fine except... Oh great it's leaking a steady stream of drops from the rail side o ring on the #2 injector. I debate just ignoring that fact and just as I'm about to decide to, the rail starts spraying two fine streams of fuel from pinholes in the braze. Ok, goddammit, I guess we're trying this again. Pull it back apart, pray I don't ruin the brand new o rings because I ASSUMED I would only need one set and only ordered one. Pull the fuel pressure regulator and first 3 injectors off since I'm going to have to torch this thing again and melt more brazing rod into it. Inspect everything carefully. Injectors look fine, so swap the rail and manifold o rings on the problem injector. Clean the pinhole area and just straight up splutter another 2 inches worth of brazing rod onto it, gently caress you, good luck leaking through that. Move the suspicious injector with its swapped o rings to cylinder 3. Carefully check the injector cups for 1 and 2, find deposits that might have kept the o ring from sealing. Clean them up and put the tested good injectors from 1 and 3 back in 1 and 2. Reinstall on Jeep. Start it up. Now 1 and 2 are dry but 3 is now pouring fuel from the rail side. So clearly this fine-looking injector has something going on because the leak followed the injector at the same end, not the port on the rail or the o ring. The braze appears to be holding its own. Pull it back apart a third time. But this time only far enough to sneak the bad injector out. Swap the o rings off of it to one of the 3 extra injectors I got, install it in the rail. Put the rail back on the engine. What's this? The fuel return line quick connect won't... Quick connect. It doesn't want to plug in. gently caress. I've torn the tiny o rings deep in the quick connect socket with all this repeated plugging and unplugging. Check if hnbr o rings will handle gas (they will), unbolt the fuel pressure regulator, pull the trashed ones out, find the right size in my o ring kit, put them in, put the FPR back on. Button it all back up again. And this time, nothing leaks. Oh and by now it's 3AM and I've been working on this in a panic for *eleven hours* including driving there and back. Sometimes a simple repair isn't. But at least the truck isn't going to autoimmolate at the drop of a hat anymore. And I'm guessing the 12mpg it got on the last tank had something to do with the fact that like 50% of the gas wasn't actually going into the engine at all. It could be worse, this could have decided to pop in Chicago rush hour traffic or something. Instead, I found out at the hangar, where I had every tool and material needed to bodge the fuel rail back together. So then I drove it home and mainlined a bunch of microwave burritos because I'm an adult and I'm allowed to do that for some reason. It's time to pass out now.
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Mar 23, 2023 09:15
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At what point do you just drop $120 to dodge this headache? This says it's for that gen, will it work? https://www.amazon.com/KUNTAUTOS-Aluminum-Injector-1988-2006-Cherokee/dp/B0BTLWW5SD/
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Mar 23, 2023 23:04
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That one won't work, they're just idiots and listed a 96+ part for 88+ when if it actually fit 88 it would also fit 87. I did see that one, though. The brand name is amusing. Unfortunately by the time I realized how bad the leak was and where it was coming from, I was 25 miles from home and legitimately semi afraid to drive it home again, and only about 10 miles from my friend with a spare he could bring me the next day, when it would be 15 miles from him to my house. So either way I was either sleeping on the couch at the hangar or waiting hours to get towed home, and someone let his AAA expire by accident, so... Yeah. I decided it was worth a shot. I wish I'd realized it was going to take 3 attempts and had bought a spare set of injector o rings. Probably going to take the passenger door from the white MJ down to DeadJeep in RI tomorrow and trade it to them for a road trip spare fuel injector rail, though. The one I fixed has been fine so far but I'm not sure I trust it for 3000 miles of hostile territory. The truly maddening part though? I had to patch together my 80s garbage can EFI components while sitting ten feet from the LQ9 and 4L80e I actually want to swap in before towing a trailer cross country with this turd. Because I can't afford another LS swap at the moment. So I got to sweat and bleed for 177hp that I'm going to be hating going through the Rockies and Cascades instead of swapping in the 345hp drivetrain I wanted and I'm not fuckin happy about it <  >
kastein fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Mar 24, 2023 |
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Mar 24, 2023 00:26
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kastein posted:The brand name is amusing. I think it's German for "Jeep"
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Mar 24, 2023 04:10
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Day late and a dollar short etc, but for future reference I rebuilt a couple sets of those injectors with this kit, and they worked great. Nice because the 8 set gives you a couple spares in case of Jeep. https://tradergreg.ecrater.com/p/10991633/bosch-type-3-fuel-injector-o-rings
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Mar 24, 2023 07:24
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:in case of Jeep. Count on it.
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Mar 24, 2023 16:31
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Day late and a dollar short etc, but for future reference I rebuilt a couple sets of those injectors with this kit, and they worked great. Nice because the 8 set gives you a couple spares in case of Jeep. I might have to grab that, thanks. I didn't bother rebuilding these ones, just brakleened the outsides mostly clean and put new o rings on. Until I realized my problem was the fuel rail, I'd been scrounging parts up around the hangar to build a flow testing and cleaning setup on the spot, but I suddenly realized that was going to have to wait and that I had more pressing issues. It runs smooth at speed but I'm gonna be honest, I think the idle is slightly rougher with them. But it doesn't piss fuel everywhere anymore and the idle isn't bad enough to care and that's good enough for me.
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Mar 24, 2023 16:43
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Well, it gained a few mpg when I went from "pissing gas everywhere" to "not pissing gas everywhere" so that's nice. Last few tanks have been in the 15mpg range while I was down to about 13mpg previously and wondering why. It has a weird "one of my serpentine belt ribs has turned into a flail and is hitting things" sort of noise now at mid throttle at certain speeds though and it's worrying the poo poo out of me. I cannot figure out what the hell it is. I thought it was the loose heat shield on the exhaust header but i ditched that at the same time as I did the driver motor mount and the noise is still here. I'm going to try running it around the airport with no serpentine belt to rule out belt drive bullshit, I tried my mechanics stethoscope out on it today and couldn't really narrow anything down that sounded right. Most annoying, it won't do it while parked. I sure hope it's not bottom end because I would really not have it try and become an external combustion engine in Iowa or some poo poo. Oh, finally remembered to adjust the drag link too. My steering wheel is centered for the first time in 7 years and it's taking some getting used to.
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Apr 8, 2023 05:17
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Transmission/torque converter/driveshaft related if it doesn't do it while parked? Last annoying cyclic noise I had was a cracked flywheel on one of my old Mustangs, but that would go away when you disengaged the clutch.
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Apr 8, 2023 06:06
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Christ, I sure hope not. I just had the transmission out in April '21 and I don't want to do it again. It doesn't sound like loose flexplate to converter bolts, I had that happen on an MJ once. Maybe cracked flexplate. Ugh. I guess I'll have to pull the inspection plate and see if I can spot any cracks. Maybe driveshafts, but it doesn't "feel" like it - it's not super speed dependent. I can give them a look over too though. My initial thoughts are tcase chain losing links and flapping on the case, something belt drive related, timing chain, or yeah, maybe flexplate. I'll have to check the transmission fluid and see if it's got metal in it too, though it's shifting and driving quite nicely so I doubt that it's the converter eating itself alive. kastein fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Apr 8, 2023 |
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Apr 8, 2023 06:17
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Transmission fluid looks fine. Tcase fluid looks kind of poo poo and I'm a bit concerned but at the same time, it will only need to be in 2wd for the entire drive. Driveshafts look fine. Didn't get my eyes on the converter and flexplate today. Tried running it around the airport with the belt off. Succeeded in getting it very warm but did not find the source of the noise. Put my new belt on that I've had sitting for years now, since the old one was worn down to the point that the cords were showing in the grooves. The belt talks less now but the scary noise is still present. I dunno. I think I'm just gonna run it that way if I can't find it. Oh, I tried to machine the remaining axle tube to inner C adapter slug for my Dana 70 project today and the loving CNC machine cockblocked me, again, multiple times. I'm getting really tired of that thing being a colossal wanker like this. When I buy my own I am going to aim for one that already needs a full control replacement so I'm not tempted to try and use it as is like this.
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Apr 10, 2023 08:50
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kastein posted:Tcase fluid looks kind of poo poo and I'm a bit concerned but at the same time, it will only need to be in 2wd for the entire drive. As someone who really has little knowledge about a transfer case - when in 2wd, are any of the 4WD bits still spinning if the front hubs are disengaged? If they are, are they under any real load? Would removing the front driveshaft help, or would that allow the front yoke to take a trip on its own? "Kind of poo poo" - does that mean it has glitter? 4WD/AWD is where I really have zero knowledge, beyond knowing AWD makes it a lot of fun to drive in the snow in a Subaru (and can make the car make concerning noises). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Apr 11, 2023 |
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Apr 11, 2023 09:53
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On a non vacuum disconnect front axle with no hub lockouts, yeah, front driveshaft is spinning all the time. My truck would have had vacuum disconnect if it was 4x4 from the factory but they're not great and have few aftermarket shaft upgrades so I went to a non disconnect later model axle when I swapped it to 4x4. The transfer case is also slightly different (older ones have a vacuum switch that drives the vacuum disconnect solenoid, as well as a slightly different shift cam) so I also used a newer transfer case. On this transfer case, there are essentially two shift forks driven from one shift lever by a funky shift cam with two lobes on it. One fork is the range fork, it shifts a collar that either engages the input shaft to the rear output shaft, or the planetary set for low range. It can also hang the range collar in between the two, touching nothing, for transfer case neutral, which is for flat towing. The other fork, the mode fork, either locks the chain drive sprocket to the rear output shaft, or it doesn't. The chain drive is directly connected to the front output shaft. So essentially if the fork pads aren't melted and the bearings are fine it'll be fine. By kind of poo poo I mean it's darker than I'd like and has just a little bit of glitter in it, but I'm not really sure how many miles I've put on it and it's not poo poo enough for me to immediately assume it's hosed. I'm gonna change the fluid on it and keep an eye on it. Maybe give it a colonoscopy with my $25 Amazon borescope to check the shift forks and see how much trash is on the fluid pump pickup screen. It's given me zero problems so far, I'm just worried because it's a long way to drive in one shot unsupported. Maybe I'll bother to put my spare transfer case back together (it was also making glitter, but I'm pretty sure that one was my fault, I forgot to tighten the fill plug in in 2014 and it rattled out and lost all the fluid on i90) with some parts replaced and carry it as a spare, it only takes an hour or two to swap these in a parking lot and it should last at least a few thousand miles. I don't really trust either of these, but I should be able to trust both together.
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Apr 11, 2023 16:52
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If it sounds like this, it was the front driveshaft for me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2n0ROttFko
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Apr 11, 2023 18:08
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Maybe. It's less pronounced than that (but that might just be because I'm hearing it from in the cab.). It also is much less vehicle speed dependent - I can't say it's engine speed dependent either though. But it happens at a higher speed for sure, and mid throttle and higher mostly. I really need to build myself a mechanics microphone setup that I can clamp to things and listen to while driving to narrow it down. If I had to guess it would have to be timing chain or maybe a header gasket leak. Or something in the engine itself.
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Apr 11, 2023 21:37
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in the interest of not getting shot by the pigs in the inevitable traffic stop (I'll be driving this pile 3500+ miles through 15+ states shortly, many of them red without legal weed, wearing blue state, legal-weed tags...) I have decided maybe my driver window on the blue MJ should be operated by something other than reaching down into the driver footwell with a cordless tool battery and touching it to two wires dangling out from behind a missing trim panel. As such I went to my favorite junkyard Saturday late as usual and had 15 minutes to pull my parts. There were no XJs that weren't entirely stripped out, so in a panic I went to the Subaru section and ganked a driver door switch panel from a 2002 Forester. It has all the required functions, and then some. Driver window (including auto down function!), passenger window, two rear windows I'll probably use to run my winch and something else eventually, lock/unlock I won't be using, and as chrisgt described it, "the dutch oven button". Which will be less effective as I'll be mounting this switch panel in the center console, but still. I test wired it to the window regulator and some jumper cables and sure enough the auto down function works great. These switch panels are very nice and seem easily retrofittable because they snap in with tension clips and mount to what appears to be a perfectly flat surface, so all you have to do is reproduce the cutout shape and you should be golden. I forgot to trace that so it looks like I'll be going back to the junkyard with paper and pencil soon. Here's it working: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6yvxPdgFiA And here's the pinout: 02 forester master window switch looking into harness plug, latch on top to the left 1 2 3 latch 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 1 blu driver window up (=12V when going up, GND when going down) 2 blu/red driver window down (=GND when going up, 12V when going down) 3 NC 4 NC 5 blk/blu passenger window up (to motor or passenger window switch) 6 red/blu passenger window down (to motor or passenger window switch) 7 blk ground 8 NC 9 grn/yel rear left window up (winch...) 10 blu/yel rear left window down (winch...) 11 NC 12 grn/blk 12V in (should be fed from breaker or fuse) 13 grn/wht rear right window down (rear winch???) 14 blu/wht rear right window up (rear winch???) 15 blu/grn door lock trigger out 16 yel door unlock trigger out Use this information as you see fit...
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Apr 25, 2023 04:57
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I used late '90s Ford Contour front passenger/rear window switches on my 2-door XJ, mounted in the panel ahead of the door handle, where the factory puts them. I didn't feel like sourcing an actual hen's teeth factory 2-door switch plate. The Ford units are simple, and mount in a round-end rectangle opening. Some even are lit. Add relays, and good to go. 2 in the driver's doo, one in the passenger, AND the door lock switches from the same car match. I do have pics, but not online. The XJ predates my thread, mostly. But here are the switches:    '90s Escort switches are more or less the same, but more modern-looking. Same cutout in the panel. Same plug, I think.   Be sure and grab said plugs, too, of course. If I had room in the center console, I like your idea of using a driver's door master switch, though.
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Apr 26, 2023 20:51
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Oh wow, those look way nicer. Got me thinking now.
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Apr 26, 2023 21:14
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If you need something really compact, the power window controls in my old dodge pickup are on a panel about 2" square, and it looks like dorman makes a repro: https://www.ebay.com/itm/254899173865 Wouldn't have the auto-down feature though.
bennyfactor fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Apr 27, 2023 |
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Apr 27, 2023 05:02
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kastein posted:Oh wow, those look way nicer. Got me thinking now. Spotted them somewhere, danged if I can remember where. Probably just noted them in the wrecking yard looking for something else. bennyfactor posted:If you need something really compact, the power window controls in my old dodge pickup are on a panel about 2" square, and it looks like dorman makes a repro: https://www.ebay.com/itm/254899173865 Wouldn't have the auto-down feature though. Or they could just be glued in, or the appropriate retainers built using sheet ABS and glue. It's worth noting that the Ford switches wouldn't have auto-down either. I never missed it really, but I also never had it on the regular until I got my Crown Vic. The auto down on that one is a separate set of contacts the closes a latching relay with current sensing to release. The switch can (and has been, in my car) be bad and the auto-down still work. Which is awkward, because you may not be able to get it back up. There are add-on modules for alarms that can do auto down (and up!). There's no reason that couldn't be triggered by the regular switch, but it would be auto ALL the time in that case. Maybe some sort of time-delay gate - have to hold it for a certain length of time before it kicks? edit: I considered 3rd party PW switches, designed for use with aftermarket PW kits, but the Ford switches were very similar, and easily available at the time. I don't think the third party switches are horrendously expensive nowadays, and come in a few styles, some lighted.
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Apr 27, 2023 20:28
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Yeah, my spec list was pretty much "very common car with easily adapted switches" and the Subaru was the first thing I saw in the yard that fit on my way back to the register. The Ford ones look very nice as well but now I'm kind of hooked on the idea of auto down. OBS ones also look good if I felt like 3d printing an adapter but I'm trying to avoid that. I'll probably just use what I already have at this point. I don't really want aftermarket since I have no control over that supply chain, they like to change their design every few years to make it fresh and that affects my spare parts availability more than I want. I prefer stuff I can grab at the junkyard for the foreseeable future and off rockauto if I really have to.
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Apr 27, 2023 22:06
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kastein posted:Yeah, my spec list was pretty much "very common car with easily adapted switches" and the Subaru was the first thing I saw in the yard that fit on my way back to the register. The Ford ones look very nice as well but now I'm kind of hooked on the idea of auto down. OBS ones also look good if I felt like 3d printing an adapter but I'm trying to avoid that. Oh, that's absolutely a concern, though with the aftermarket power window kits, they *really* haven't changed in long time. I'm all in on being able to order a replacement part from an OEM or Standard, for sure, though. I don't recall what the equivalent Focus coupe or 3-door master switches looked like. Potentially usable, but if they're anything like my Crown Vic, mount from behind like those Dodge switches, so would be fine for an actual custom build that you wanted to be cool and planned to keep nice, but not so much for "just make it work but not dangle wires everywhere." edit: yeah: https://www.ebay.com/itm/403423755976 Though they at least bolt in rather than depend on snap tabs and such. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:20 on May 1, 2023 |
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May 1, 2023 22:18
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I just realized I forgot to post what I ended up doing. I got the 97-01 console I had leftover from the red toilet XJ off the top shelf at the hangar and it was vile. Like beyond disgusting. Apparently years of junkyard runs and off road use without washing my hands or ever cleaning the Jeep (it had no carpet, it had axles in the back multiple times after my MJ got taken out of service, it was pretty gross) followed by it being parked in the yard on a slope with multiple doors missing for years resulted in the interior getting filthy. Who could have predicted that? So I used the garden hose and a nylon bristle brush to scrub most of the grunge off of it only to find out that it is scratched up on most of its surfaces. Ok, I guess when I rebuild this truck and put new carpet and a whole black interior in it, I'll use a new one. So I can do whatever I want to this one without concern for future usability. Ended up having to clip about 1.5" off the upper front corners to clear the 96- floor heater vent box, and a little off the rear driver floor to make it sit right since the MJ transmission tunnel is very different from the XJ one.  Wired up the window switch and it works great. I had to cut a bit out of the ebrake opening to make this fit width wise, and it's not quite long enough to cover the hole, but it'll work for now.  So now I've got cupholders that never fit what I want them to (a 1L Nalgene bottle), but I can roll my window up and down without getting shot and I have an armrest. Good enough for now. I'll fix the weird gap with either kydex sheet stock or a larger switch unit next time, until then gorilla tape works fine.
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May 2, 2023 18:53
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Darchangel posted:Oh, that's absolutely a concern, though with the aftermarket power window kits, they *really* haven't changed in long time. Oh I really like that escort switch panel.
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May 2, 2023 18:59
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You know what other 4x4 had its window switches on the vertical part of the armrest / bin thingy? The Disco. You got your 4 window winders, window lockout, and dual-zone butt warmers all in one screw in panel. Pretty big though.
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May 2, 2023 20:19
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bennyfactor posted:You know what other 4x4 had its window switches on the vertical part of the armrest / bin thingy? The Disco. You got your 4 window winders, window lockout, and dual-zone butt warmers all in one screw in panel. Pretty big though. Those aren't auto nor would you really want to use those. They're ok switches though.
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May 2, 2023 20:22
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Yeah that actually looks pretty nice, auto down wasn't a hard requirement just a nice to have, but eyeballing it it doesn't look like it would fit anywhere nice. IIRC the Jeep JL and JT have the switches on the center of the dash, which is kind of cool.
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May 2, 2023 20:53
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When I replaced the convertible top in my old Mustang with a DPDT momentary switch, I used a piece of aluminum to fill the gap, that looked pretty good.
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May 3, 2023 02:02
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kastein posted:I just realized I forgot to post what I ended up doing. That work all right! I forgot that the MJ has a foot parking brake. Convenient! For the cupholders - this is where 3D printing in king. You print something that fits in that (shallow, useless, but at least that console has them...) hole but has taller sides/larger diameter. Or go old school and find like a boat cupholder insert that will go in there and screw it down. I've seen a number of prints like that for other cars that had inadequate cupholders. I'll need to print up something for my RX-7 - it has none, but it does have a big ashtray in the center console, and shares that part with the NA Miata, which *did* have an optional cupholder (well, canholder) insert for that location. edit: Elviscat posted:When I replaced the convertible top in my old Mustang with a DPDT momentary switch, I used a piece of aluminum to fill the gap, that looked pretty good. Whoa, you replaced the entire convertible top with a switch?! 
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May 11, 2023 21:37
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Yeah, the MJ having a foot parking brake is a blessing and a curse. Blessing for this reason, curse because the parts of the pedal assembly are known to fail and unobtainium, naturally  It sure works out nice for doing switches in the center console though. I'm not super big on 3d printing and don't really want to do an adapter, but oh well, I might have to. That being said, if I can't make the block off plate for the gap at the end of the switches look nice with plain flat kydex stock I'll probably find a way to 3d print a snap in block off plate for it. I don't actually own a 3d printer yet or have any space or budget for one though so the duct tape will likely be on duty for quite a while yet.
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May 13, 2023 04:35
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Can you 3D model? Because I have a 3D printer, and I neeeeeeeeeeeed to justify having it (which you have probably seen in my thread, LOL.) ABS is a bitch though, so kinda limited on that material until I figure out how to make it like my printer.
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May 15, 2023 23:20
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I can 3d model about as well as I can paint, which is to say, if it's not perfect circles and straight lines on integer multiple of 45 degree angles, I'm useless. Everything I design comes out looking like a PCB whether it's meant to or not. To get the kind of fit I want, I'll probably have to do it with a 3d printer of my own unfortunately, just to avoid spending a zillion dollars in postage trying every revision. I'd love your help, I just have no idea how to make it work. I believe the factory console is made from POM (polyoxymethylene.) kastein fucked around with this message at 00:02 on May 16, 2023 |
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May 15, 2023 23:59
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that's better than freshman mech engs so sounds fine enough for amc work to me.
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May 16, 2023 00:01
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cursedshitbox posted:fine enough for amc work I'm not upset you said it, I'm upset you're not wrong
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May 17, 2023 00:42
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I had a big long post about killing my battery because the thing doesn't have a telltale buzzer because fuckin' previous owner poo poo but I've caused awful app to eat it twice now so I'm not writing it all again. I tried to make the buzzer I got work and it wouldn't so I dug into the factory service manual and found that the marker lamp and key in ignition wires to the telltale socket were not functioning. So I looked in the diagrams and found some unsettlingly familiar color codes. You know the ones I was cursed by in 2016... kastein posted:So yesterday I took the day off to fix the 88 MJ and get it insured and registered. Half of one of those things happened. kastein posted:*snip* gently caress you previous owner you are a dickbag It was actually significantly worse than the picture shows, part of the dash harness, fuse panel, and bulkhead connector is melted and they cut some wires and spliced poo poo in in a bad way to bypass it. It's currently working and I'm loath to touch it any further until I have time to take it down for a proper repair so I guess I'm going to just have to be careful to not leave the lights on.
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May 17, 2023 06:09
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I'd suggest a battery cutoff but then you've got to remember to switch that anyway, just the same as the lights.
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May 17, 2023 10:08
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kastein posted:I believe the factory console is made from POM (polyoxymethylene.) Probably not. That poo poo is expensive. e: but maybe for trim and latches/mechanical stuff? Hmm I might be wrong here. Is POM used for larger molded interior parts like dashes and center consoles? ryanrs fucked around with this message at 18:12 on May 17, 2023 |
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May 17, 2023 18:00
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| # ? May 11, 2024 05:31 |
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kastein posted:gently caress you previous owner you are a dickbag Oh hey it was owned by the same guy who wired up the super rad LEDs stuck all over my 919  Ripping all that poo poo out felt so satisfying. 
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May 17, 2023 19:09
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