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That sounds like a form of post weld stress relief. When you need to do it you usually use a furnace (unless its only a localized area), at around 600C for carbon steel.
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Feb 24, 2013 07:34
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 21:37 |
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How familiar are you with the AW4 transmission and diagnosing? I have an A340 in my 4Runner and it is having issues. Symptoms are pointing towards solenoids but I want to rule out other things.
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Jan 17, 2014 14:39
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kastein posted:A thread I posted about the AW4 is the third or fourth google result for "AW4." I will have to read that... On days warmer than about -10c and after driving for a somewhat variable time it stops downshifting from third unless the shifter is moved into L. Then it will shift into either 1 or 2 seemingly at random. It does not have lock up in this case. I don't have my multimeter to test the solenoid resistance at the connector, which was going to be my next step. I will try driving around with the connector disconnected. Timmy Cruise fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Jan 17, 2014 |
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Jan 17, 2014 16:45
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Kastein: I has posted a while back about the a340f transmission in my 4runner. You had asked what it does with the connection unplugged. This is basically the manual shift test, which in my case follows the L:1st, 2:3rd, D:OD as per what I've seen in the manual (for a 93 but should be similar link: https://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-Buchanan/93fsm/autotrans.html). The transmission shifts as in the manual test. Lately the symptoms have been that it shifts normally but after driving for maybe 15 minutes it will not shift from O/D if the button is on or 3rd if its not with the lever in D or 3rd with the lever in 2. With the lever in L it sometimes starts in 1st but usually is in 2nd. I have tested the solenoid resistance at the ECT connector and they all tested at around 12 ohms. Spec is 11-15. With the weird behavior my first thought is the solenoids even with them checking out resistance wise. However I do not really feel like throwing parts at it. What are your thoughts?
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Apr 8, 2014 17:25
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kastein posted:Find me a V10 for under 500 bucks complete with everything to run it and I just might. Those drat things are expensive Thanks. I may do the toggle switches (with a third for the tc lockup) just because it would be kinda fun. On off. On on. Off on. Off off. Or something like that.
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Apr 9, 2014 01:45
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If I end up changing to a manual set up long term I would do that. Maybe that radesigns shifter. But for the  three switches are worth its cheap diagnosis.
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Apr 9, 2014 02:00
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kastein posted:A nice setup could be built with a 3PDT toggle switch, a few relays, an SPST toggle switch, and a 2P4T rotary switch, actually. 3PDT to select auto vs manual control (switches 3 solenoid wires from TCU to manual switches), the SPST switch for torque converter lockup, the relays to manage torque converter lockup (prevent it from locking in any gear except 3/OD and unlock when brake lights active), and the 2P4T rotary to select gears. So I set up a couple of switches for the two shift solenoids. Seems to shift like it should and I can get all 4 gears. So to me that points to an electrical issue - does that make sense to you? It really wouldn't surprise me after looking at some of the other wiring. Edit: one of the wiring issues seems to be the diagnostic port where you short two pins and the od light will flash for trouble codes. I tried that a while back but the light doesn't come on during normal operation like it should (OD off), nor does it flash. Timmy Cruise fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Apr 14, 2014 |
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Apr 14, 2014 03:15
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kastein posted:Sure sounds like it to me. I have no idea how the Toyota TCU works, unfortunately, I think it's part of the ECU? No its a completely separate computer you can run the truck with it completely unplugged. I found pins that fit the connector it plugs into for the test switches and plugged into the solenoid pins, so at least the wiring from the computer to the solenoids works. I'm suspecting the speed sensor maybe.
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Apr 14, 2014 03:37
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You make it sound like its not a big deal to have to dam a creek... Also I can see how holy poo poo handles don't last if you are pulling .9 g or whatever in a goddamn Cherokee. I will also admit that this has got me looking at what is available locally. In finicky old Toyota electronics news, I swapped the computer back in. When it started acting up I noticed that it was also very warm to the touch. Keeping in mind that there is some clearance from the board to the case I am thinking that this is A. Not normal B. Probably something connected to my issues...
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Apr 20, 2014 01:16
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kastein posted:That's because it isn't hard, I was damming creeks for fun when I was ten, and I didn't have a shovel and pickaxe then Nothing that I can see (keep in mind I know SFA about this kind of stuff). http://m.imgur.com/pWSJT9w,cTndzuy,6IO1hgX,s7lcqBa
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Apr 20, 2014 02:40
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kastein posted:Huh, that doesn't look like the one I am used to, understandable I guess. The large black one seems to be the one getting hot. Not sure if that is the cause or the effect though? On the head castings I assume that this is something that happens in service after a period of time, correct? I imagine that a dye pen. audit would happen during production (at least I would hope) and would catch a consistent issue like that. I'm more used to one off items where you could do everything up to all MT/PT/UT depending on the application.
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Apr 20, 2014 22:38
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So I while ago I was posted about shifting issues on my 87 4Runner (for those of you who don't know the AW4 in Jeeps are similar to the A340 series in Toyotas). I have FINALLY gotten somewhere after several attempts at diagnosing in between life and working too much. I was digging around the dash and noticed that the OD indicator, which would flash trouble codes for the transmission, was burnt out so after replacing it (and finding the connector that needs to be shorted to ground), I got codes 63, 64, 65 which are all pointing towards solenoids and/or the wiring. At least now I can nail do more testing to chase it down to the harness or the solenoids themselves. I am hoping that it doesn't turn out to be in the main harness... Testing the connection for the solenoids at the computer gives ~50-60 ohms, whereas it should be 11-15. I also get a short (no continuity) for the lock up solenoid. If I get the same value at the connector from the solenoid I would imagine it is pointing to the solenoids themselves?
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Oct 22, 2014 04:23
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 Yes I said short, meant open. I have it on ohms and get no reading on any setting.
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Oct 22, 2014 05:13
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Timmy Cruise posted:
I get continuity in the wiring all the way into the trans. With that I don't see what else it could be other than the solenoid(s?) or the wiring in the tranny. Going to throw a solenoid kit in and see.
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Oct 24, 2014 20:03
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kastein posted:Yep, sure sounds like it. Did that and still open circuit. Just waiting on parts now. Thanks for the help!
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Oct 29, 2014 14:59
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 21:37 |
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You being you I would guess you've tested the solenoids in the tranny. Just throwing it out there since I was having similar symptoms previously and two tested open circuit.
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Jul 10, 2015 02:59
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