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Motronic posted:Yes, they are retreads. And seem amazingly well regarded by everyone I've seen talk about them online. Nothing wrong with properly done retreads. by that I'm including the age and condition of the underlying carcass of course. I used to buy either them or good second hand ones but can't do either now because the Fairlane is "special". I think I'll be looking at these options for the Niva. Primarily because unless there's info I'm not finding the tyres on it were made by a company that closed its doors in '97. That's enough to make even me nervous.
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Mar 6, 2013 21:57
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kastein posted:Well, I can pick up even heavier things now. Did you fix it too? Or is it just the A arm thing? Not that I'm complaining.
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Apr 10, 2013 21:41
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1995-grade cellphone at some point, my digicam has eaten its batteries alive again)
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kastein posted:Got the new VSS for Sandbagger at the JY this morning. Sure enough, a 91 Dakota had one in it. Should work with just a pull-up resistor and some splicing. So... does this work for analog in and out setups? It's something I've always wanted but never been bothered to do. Instead I resorted to giving myself a huge headache and tried to work out a purely analog converter which didn't work too well. Not for a Jeep.
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Jun 20, 2013 02:00
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kastein posted:You know me better than that, if I end up with a subaru it will be a lifted rotted to gently caress Brat on like 35s and will get worse gas mileage than anything else I own. Brats are like the Brumby or something over this side of the pond, aren't they? Nothing wrong with that. I'm impressed as all hell at the difference putting the Ford Holley on the EA81 did for my VW. The motor went from being a rough piece of poo poo to the smoothest motor I've seen in ages. But if you saw my VW thread you'd know it wasn't a case of bolting an adapter on. It's a Franken-manifold but holy poo poo I've been considering one of the similar factory refurb carbs I've seen on U.S. eBay for the Niva. Difference is it'd be a bolt on affair this time. I think. Anyhow the Subies are fun.
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Jul 12, 2013 01:23
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Slow is Fast posted:Relax. The EJ25s aren't that bad, and we're trying to sell you on a EJ22 which doesn't poo poo head gaskets rod bearings fantastically and instead goes forever. Its like a 4.0 but missing 2 cylinders, split sideways, and gets great MPG. EJ22 is a good motor. I agree.
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Jul 30, 2013 22:32
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kastein posted:I'm still on the hunt for a good motor... nothing yet. Tempted to say wait till Sams reduces their price to the winter $100/engine rate I'm starting to understand how businesses which exists solely to import and sell used motors turn a profit.
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Aug 26, 2013 22:16
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Nope. No idea. Whatever it is, it's interesting.
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Sep 8, 2013 23:09
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BrokenKnucklez posted:
Hell yes. I'll buy it, shove it in a shipping container and resell it for 5-10k profit. Whoever is selling it should have at least cleaned it a little before taking the pic. I see a snail on the engine.
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Sep 23, 2013 22:58
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So those are studded winter tyres? I don't know what they normally go for but the size looks adequate unless you're looking to go serious offroading with studs. How would that work out anyway?
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Oct 12, 2013 22:15
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kastein posted:
I had to shove those numbers into a size calculator to see how much difference there is. I can see why you're hurting for clearance. Even the A/Ts on the Niva when I got it were larger diameter. Thanks for the explanation of snow tyres for us hot climate folks. There's a lot to be said for pizzacutters but they fall short on soft surfaces with no solid base like sand or deep mud. I know you know that kastein. Just saying is all.
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Oct 13, 2013 06:01
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kastein posted:Can anyone think of a way to get a ~540rpm PTO drive out of a 4.0L/AX15/NP231 drivetrain, preferably one that runs even when not in gear? I can't, and I have a really stupid idea that requires this. There's no PTO option for the AX15, anything involving the transfer case means it'll only run when the vehicle is moving, and I can't think of a good way to add it to the belt drive since it'll need to transfer 30-40hp at least. That's an awful lot of HP for a PTO to take. Otherwise I would have suggested some kind of crankshaft and reduction box setup. I know nothing about the drivetrains on these so humour me. is the TC bolted directly to the transmission or is there an intermediate coupling or shaft?
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Oct 16, 2013 21:46
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kastein posted:Bolted directly on, that's not relevant however because either way, the output shaft of the transmission is only turning when it is in gear. Ah sorry. Your TC doesn't have a neutral. Nevermind. Completely impossible for a couple of reasons. There is another option I forgot about. Again the HP is an issue, and cost kind of is unless you know someone but a hydraulic pump and motor setup. A standard PS pump probably wouldn't be anywhere up to the job.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:53
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kastein posted:There is a mechanical fan but I kinda need it to cool the engine... and I really doubt the belt drive will handle the kind of power I need to transfer. A loose serp belt on these manifests as a squealing belt when the alternator tries to charge the battery, they're only ~137A alternators (2kw, 2.6hp) even when fully upgraded. Breaking out the amount of power you are after isn't easy. If it were in a more normal PTO range the hydraulic setup is nothing unusual. Unless there are special variant parts made for rural or military applications that can be made to fit, a mechanical PTO is a bit tough. Are you sure about your figures on the load for the alternator? Or is it more of a location problem causing a bad belt angle? Even a single V belt setup is good for 10+ HP. But anyway 10 is way below 30 or 40. Really I can't even think of what you'd want to run that uses that HP short of a large sawmill, pump or generator.
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Oct 16, 2013 22:20
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kastein posted:Lead acid batteries are getting expensive, drat. Just blew $130 but at least the truck will start again. That's not bad for a battery bigger than something to start a Mighty Boy or similar.
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Oct 20, 2013 21:07
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kastein posted:
Good question. Most of where you have the camera sounds like a normal old diesel but some spots it does have the tappy sound of petrol rod knock. My gut says it's just the way it sounds. Go listen to some diesel rod knock sounds on Youtube. Very nasty sound.
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Oct 21, 2013 01:21
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kastein posted:No offense but that is something I could figure out myself ("watch videos on youtube"). While I haven't worked on big diesels I've spent time around them and driven them. That clacking didn't sound too out of place to me. It's great to see this being brought fully back to life by the way. I've been waiting for ages to see this happen. e: Something I forgot to add. Unless it has minor rod knock on every rod in equal amounts the frequency of the tapping sound is too high for an idling diesel. What does that engine idle at? I really think you are just hearing the magic of diesel engines. Let's hope I'm right about it not being rod knock on every cylinder, eh? General_Failure fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 05:36
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kastein posted:
I'm sorry that's the case. How available are the parts, and can work be done without the engine being removed? From my perspective it sounded like uneven injector charge and fairly even diesel tap when you stuck the camera down the side. The head / gasket needs to be done anyway so I suppose that's a way of finding out, assuming if it is rod knock it's viable to fix. If not, more power to you. No matter what you have an awesome truck that a lot of people would give their right nut to get their hands on.
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Oct 21, 2013 21:27
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