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e:  IF YOU JUST BOUGHT A NEW PEN, RINSE IT OUT A FEW TIMES WITH SOAPY WATER. 9 TIMES OUT OF 10 THAT'S WHY IT'S A lovely STARTER.Why should I write with a fountain pen? There are many reasons to write with a fountain pen instead of a rollerball or ballpoint pen, such as:
How do I write with a fountain pen? Fountain pens work by using capillary action to pull liquid ink from a reservoir to the sweet spot at the tip of a nib. Ballpoints work by rolling a ball around in a pastey ink. Fountain pens are a bit pickier with positioning because of this. Generally speaking, you need to hold the pen with the nib pointing outward, with the line between the tines facing away from your hand. You also need to use a smooth hand and light pressure to write.  DO NOT PRESS DOWN HARD WHEN WRITING WITH A FOUNTAIN PEN!!!!A fountain pen is delicate, and pressing down hard can really gently caress up the tines. Due to how it works, no additional ink will come out AND you will probably need to get the pen repaired. Tines? Nibs? What exactly goes into these things? Fountain pens come in a few simple parts with about a dozen variations to each, so here's the basics.
How do I take care of a fountain pen? Fountain pens are actually pretty resilient things, for the most part. Vintage pens that have seen a lot of use can come with problems. These things are tools, after all, and are made to take some abuse within reason. Take care of the pen like you would a watch is a good guideline. However, the nib will need some basic care. Every couple of ink fills (I do it every 2 ink fills, and whenever changing colors to wash out the color), run lukewarm (NOT HOT) water through the nib using the cartridge converter or whatever ink filling system you use. I cycle it until the water becomes clear, but whatever, it doesn't matter much. I usually want the color out so I can switch inks easily. Let the pen dry out and then fill. An easy way to get it to dry quickly is to wrap it in tissues so that the capillary effect does the work for you. If there is some stubbourn ink that won't run completely out, some ammonia in the rinse water can help. Just flush it with clean water afterward. Lastly, don't leave pens inked (filled with ink) if you are not using them for a long time. You make it sound like the bee's knees, but I'm not sold. What's a good way to try it out? Well, there are always the cheap, semi-disposable pens. Both the Pilot Petit and the Platinum Preppy are good starter pens below $4. The Petit even comes with an ink cartridge, but you can get a Preppy free with a bottle of ink... which I'll get to in a minute. This is just the cat's pajamas! What are some better pens? This is my tried and true pen that I use every day at work:  The Pilot Metropolitan ($18) This is the starter pen. Metal body, steel nib (now available with Medium or Fine nibs!), and it comes with both a cartridge and a converter. I absolutely adore this pen. It has a durable finish, the cap snaps on tight and secure, and the nib is unbelievably smooth for such a cheap pen! It can also apparently swap nibs with the italic-only Pilot Plumix ($9), so that's a slightly cheaper option if you want to try out italics as well. An important note: Pilot is a Japanese company, and as a general rule, nibs made in Asia write thinner than the equivalent size nibs from Europe or America. The Medium nib on a Metro will write more like a Fine pen from a European company.  The Lamy Safari ($25-35) This is another wonderful choice for an entry-level pen. Cheap, widely available, durable as all hell with its ABS plastic body (the same stuff LEGO is made from). It can either use Lamy cartridges or a Lamy converter for using bottled ink.  If you buy it from here it even comes with a free converter. There is a clear version called the Vista which is otherwise the same, and some aluminum-bodied versions called the Al-Star. Probably the best thing about this pen is that you can buy the nibs separately and swap them out. Drop the pen? No sweat. Want a different line width? Not a problem. Note: These pens get tested at the factory but not cleaned, so a brand-new pen will have some blue ink in the feed. Rinse it out and you'll be all set. The TWSBI family ($50- Pictured is the Vac 700, a popular pen with an interesting filling mechanism. TWSBI pens are made of durable plastic, have decent-quality steel nibs with swappable units, and are pretty popular right now. They are designed by a company that takes an active role in the community and genuinely listens to feedback. They also have a baller customer service. If parts get damaged, they'll send you free replacements and the entire thing is user-serviceable. It even comes with a special wrench for taking it apart. The Diamond line is another good pen and the Diamond 580 is out now! Also the Vac 700 just dropped by $15! The best thing about TWSBIs? The screwcaps! The Lamy 2000 ($160-200) This bad boy has been a standard in design since the 60s. Great ink capacity, sleek design, ink window so it's not a blind guess as to whether you'll run out of ink today. It uses a solid gold nib coated in platinum. It's often recommended as a go-to pen for students because of its large ink capacity and reasonable cost.  The Pilot Vanishing Point ($140) That's right, fools, a fountain pen clicky top!  By the Japanese company Pilot/Namiki (depending on how fancy they want to sound). This is a nice and very portable click pen with a solid-gold nib that you can get plated in rhodium if you really want to. It comes in a wide selection of body designs, all-metal, and can accept cartridges or use a converter. Some people complain about the reservoir size, but it's a trade-off for a one hand operation pen that won't accidentally lose a cap and ruin your pants/shirt/purse/manservantWhat if I don't want to spend all that money on a pen, but still want an upgrade from my Preppy?  Mother. loving. Hero 616 During the communist revolution in China, a lot of foreign pen manufacturers had factories there. Well, the People's Republic nationalized them and are passing the savings on to you! Hero specializes in Parker Pen Co. knockoffs, and the 616 here is based on the iconic Parker 51. For being cheap Chinese knockoffs, these pens are of a pretty decent quality and are recommended by some, though the QA is definitely lacking. Here's a pack of 10 of them for $22. At least a couple of them are bound to be good. I have a Hero 200a and after some finagling it works alright. Not bad for a $35 gold nib pen. Also everyone should own a Kakuno!  Great! Where can I buy these marvelous gizmos? Well, lots of places. These are some recommended retailers: The Goulet Pen Company. - Family run business, huge (but not comprehensive) selection, has a lot of helpful tools to compare nib lines/pen sizes/ink colours. Very Canada friendly  Wonder Pens. - "$7 shipping across Canada, free for $100+ orders. They have a pretty big variety of stuff, pricing all over. Doesn't seem to be any retail markup on the basic Twsbi 580 for example and they have dirt cheap Platinum Preppies. The Al-Stars seem a bit pricy though, compared to Safaris at least. Lots of great stationery that's hard to find here too." (thanks, teethgrinder!)I Sell Pens - Another family business, good source for Chinese pens, customer service is amazing. Their website finally crawled out of 1996 and brought with it a rewards point system. Perfect place to get your Safari and free converter. Richard's Pens - Great for restored vintage pens and custom nib grinds. Jetpens Rakuten Global imports - A great source for Japanese pens like Pilot and Platinum, and for getting fancy Iroshizuku inks for $10-20 less than most American or European retailers. Writer's Bloc - A great place to buy notebooks and pads in bulk and I've had good experiences with their customer service team. You can also find a decent selection on Amazon and the like. There are also ebay sellers, the best source for Chinese pens: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/YesPen?_rdc=1 http://stores.ebay.co.uk/earlyherowingsungpens1992?_rdc=1 http://stores.ebay.co.uk/YCPENS?_rdc=1 So where do nerds talk about pens? Well, this thread is good, but you probably want blogs. Fine! The Fountain Pen Network - The place for fountain pens. Ink Nouveau - The blog front-end for the Goulet Company. They only really review poo poo they sell so don't expect an unbiased opinion. Fountain Pen Geeks - Alright blog with a regular podcast. Want something to use your new pens on? We happen to have a pen pal/holiday card thread on these very forums! Write to other people to comiserate about having spent  to post on an internet forum! Ch-ch-check it out!
cobalt impurity fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Apr 4, 2015 |
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Jan 30, 2013 22:00
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Cartridge vs Bottle Inks Cartridges are enormously expensive on a per mL basis and create tons of waste. Bottled ink can cost from $6 to $30, but one bottle will last you a few years. My everyday black that I use for work and a lot of my writing I've had for about a year and I've only just reached the top of the label on the bottle. To use bottled ink, you will need some bulk-fill adapter. Usually, this will come with pens in some fashion. Usually called the "converter," it's a device that sucks up ink into a pen. Some have a bit you screw and unscrew to drive a piston up and down a hollow tube, pushing out the air and sucking the ink in as it retracts. Some are just a rubber sac you either squeeze yourself or push a metal bar to squeeze, sucking in ink like a turkey baster. Some pens have these things built-in, some pens don't even use any mechanical means. They're called "eyedropper fillers" and you just unscrew the body and fill it up with ink directly. They have a huge capacity but during long writing sessions the heat from your hand can cause them to belch or dribble. Here is a visual aid on how to use a typical cartridge converter. Tell me more about inks! Inks! God I love inks! There are literally hundreds of inks to choose from, widely available from pen manufacturers and others. The number of colours and shades and hues available is just insane. If you can imagine a colour, someone has made an ink of it. You want blacklight-reactive ink? Holmes, you have choices. Fountain pen inks are water-based and use coloured dyes, which means they generally wash out easily, even from paper. Do not use India ink or any shellac-based or pigmented inks. They will destroy your pen.If you want a permanent ink, there is a whole line of "Bulletproof" inks from the Noodler's Ink Company. The ink works by bonding with cellulose, so if you spill it on your desk it's no problem, but if it gets on your clothes they're just done. Bulletproof inks resist water, most common solvents one might use to lift ink from paper, and thanks to consumer input, lasers!  Heart of Darkness is a "bulletproof" ink designed to be blacker than the blackest black and even comes with a free Platinum Preppy converted for eyedropper use if you buy the 4.5oz bottle. This is the ink I use every day and I swear by it.There are tons of other companies with tons of other colours which each have their own properties. Some inks flow better, some inks are more resistant to soaking into the paper and "feathering." There are cheap staple inks you buy all the time and use every day and there are some more luxurious inks with better flow or brighter colours that you might like. This is the most dangerous part of fountain pen enthusiasm: ink collecting is a slippery slope. Oh, sure, you start off with a bottle of HoD, but then you decide you need a blue to keep it festive, or a nice blue-black to add a little character but keep it legal. Then you want a fancier ink for important letters. Then you'll need another colour for writing Christmas cards. Then you get an italic nib and need an ink with better shading. Then one day you wonder what's the big deal about scented inks and curiosity gets the better of you and the next thing you know you get a pallet from the Goulets and wonder what the hell you're going to do with 3 ounces of ink that can only be read under blacklight. Wait, go back. Italic? Yes! Italic! And oblique and stub and flex! Nibs come in a variety of types that give different line properties. The most basic nibs just create a normal line and generally come in Extra-Fine (XF), Fine (F), Medium (M), and Broad (B).  Italic nibs are ones that are flattened out near the tip with sharp edges. They're useful for creating lines with a lot of variation in the width. If you draw a line across the broad side of the nib it will be very thick, and if you draw a line across the thin side it will create a much, much thinner line. This style of writing is mostly associated with calligraphy, but plenty of people use it in their everyday writing. Here's a sample to show what I mean:  Stub nibs are much like italics, but their edges are rounded for a more gentle variation in line width. You don't quite get the stark angles, but they tend to glide a bit more gently compared to italics.  Music nibs are super-wide italic nibs with three tines. As the name suggests, they were originally made to write out music, but nowadays they just give crazy-wide lines and great flow since one little slit doesn't have to feed the entire pen tip.  Oblique nibs are like italics, but they're cut at a weird angle requiring the pen to be held in a different way. They also give a more "calligraphy-like" line, but which strokes get which variation are different.  Finally, we have flex nibs. These are nibs that force you to commit a mortal sin against fountain pins: the harder you press, the wider the lines you get. Flex nibs were very popular in vintage pens but fell out of style until recently when the Namiki Falcon and Noodler's much more affordable lines came out. The idea is that you control when the lines get fatter or skinnier, not some punk-rear end nib horning in on your turf. I have an Ahab that I use often because I love the ability to add flourish or emphasis without switching pens. Wait, I'm left-handed. Won't everything I write just be a smeared mess? Heck no! There are inks made specifically with lefties in mind that dry almost as soon as they hit the paper, and with the proper form you'll be writing up a storm in no time. cobalt impurity fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Jan 30, 2013 22:00
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Quote is not edit.
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Jan 31, 2013 03:35
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Kung Fu Jesus posted:I used a fountain pen once about 20 years ago. I think it was for some project in art class or something. All I remember, and the reason I haven't used one since, is that it produced a scratchy, almost sandpaper sound and feel when I wrote. It was just the right feel and sound to make my skin crawl. It was similar to that feel when you remove a molded piece of styrofoam out of a cardboard package and it rubs together. It's all based on the pen, but I have pens from 5 different manufacturers and none of them are anything like that. They range from buttery-smooth to too dry for my tastes but still perfectly usable. It might have been a bad nib or you might have been holding it wrong/pressing too hard. Once you get it down, they become a pleasure to use!
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Feb 1, 2013 03:09
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Diamine Oxblood is the coolest ink to have on your fingers.  Oh god why did I just buy a bottle of 54th Massachusetts I'm too broke to be buying any ink right now and why would I even need a bulletproof blue-black oh jesus. 
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Feb 3, 2013 03:55
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SnakesRevenge posted:How's the dry time on oxblood? I love the color of Noodler's Tiananmen, but it will still smudge after 20 minutes or more on my rhodia pad. On Clairfontaine paper it dries in just a few seconds, but the pen I have it in is pretty stingy and dry. I just tried it on something I wrote a few hours ago and it won't smudge at all. That is, unless there's moisture on your fingers. It runs like crazy at even a little dampness. I can't speak for Tienanmen, but Oxblood is a good blood-red ink if you can keep it dry.
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Feb 3, 2013 05:02
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CannedMacabre posted:This pen was crusty when I got it, but the vacuum bulb seems in good shape, should I be weary of it cracking when having it completely filled? Nice find! If the pen is old, the rubber sac inside will break down, so it could at some point spring a leak. Be careful about wearing it in a pocket of clothes you like. You could probably look up how to replace the sac and wouldn't be too hard if you're at all handy. If taken care of, ink lasts a long time. A really long time. I have a bottle of ink from the 60s that's still useable. The only time you would need to throw out old ink is if your bottle got infected with mold. In order to prevent that from happening, just keep the lid tightly closed, keep the ink out of light (in a box, drawer, or cupboard), and never squirt unused ink back into the bottle if it's been in your pen for more than a week. That last thing is a topic of debate, but I'm of the "better safe than sorry" school. You're losing less than a mL if you just pour it down the sink and non-premium ink is cheap.
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Feb 5, 2013 04:09
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Get yon bottle of ink, dip the nib in until completely submerged, twist that long black knob until it won't twist anymore, then twist it back et voila! e: poo poo, let's get visual. How to use a piston cartridge converter. First, unscrew the body of the pen so it's just the nib, grip section, and bare converter.  Next, dip the nib into the ink all the way until it's completely submerged, going onto the grip section a little bit. Some pens might have a "fill hole" or something so if yours does, make sure that is fully submerged.  Twist the knob on the end to send the piston plunger all the way to the bottom. Twist 'til you can't twist anymore, but don't go nuts and hulk out on it.  Twist the knob back, slowish, to suck up ink with the plunger. There will usually be a small air bubble because of the air space in the feed, but just repeat these two steps and that should eliminate it.  Wipe that mess off. You don't want inky fingers. You will probably get them anyway, but at least put in some effort.   Voila! Start writing something useful to society! 
cobalt impurity fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Feb 5, 2013 |
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Feb 5, 2013 05:01
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Feb 5, 2013 21:51
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Feb 6, 2013 00:13
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Feb 6, 2013 02:13
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Feb 6, 2013 04:46
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  BuzzVII posted:Has anyone heard of using cotton gloves or something along those lines when they write? My hands get really sweaty and writing left handed it can brush the page causing major problems. I've tried writing right handed but I need to rest my hand on the paper and it gets sweat stains. 
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Feb 6, 2013 13:46
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Yeah, get your friend a Metro. The Noodler's pens are too fiddly and the grips on the Safari are so polarising.
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Feb 6, 2013 21:39
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Feb 7, 2013 01:33
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Feb 7, 2013 02:42
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Aramek posted:Goulet Pens has this awesome interactive thingy, the Nib Nook! http://www.gouletpens.com/Nib_Nook_s/1114.htm This is typical of Asian pens in general. European nibs usually write the same thickness as one size up in Asian nibs, though there are obvious exceptions. The Nib Nook is invaluable for comparing lines, but sadly it's only useful for pens the Goulets happen to sell.
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Feb 8, 2013 00:25
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My standard black is Noodler's Heart of Darkness. I just love how dark it is and being bulletproof is a huge bonus for me. As for writing better, I just practiced a lot. I had to first train myself to use as little pressure as possible, then found a way to hold my fingers to keep the pen steady, and now I'm working on getting my arm and shoulder into it instead of just writing with my wrist.
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Feb 16, 2013 02:05
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GabrielAisling posted:Why are all the <$30 pens so ugly? Bulky, inelegant plastic bodies everywhere. Is something at least as nice looking as a $3 ballpoint really asking so much? Hell, even the Pilot Varsity I've been using is nicer looking than some of the pens I've seen today. Pilot Metropolitan. All-metal body, sleek design, professional colour schemes, $15.  Lamy Logo. All-metal body, swappable nibs, also comes in brushed metal, $30-40. If these are bulky and inelegant to you, we're going to need a better idea of what you didn't like and why in order to help you.
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Feb 17, 2013 01:15
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It needs to be completely submerged. All the way. Part of the grip needs to be in the ink. You have to use the ink to cover any possible air passages so suction can occur.
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Feb 23, 2013 04:24
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Early March was the last I heard.
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Feb 23, 2013 07:46
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If you don't mind having to fiddle with the pen at first to get it right, the Noodler's Konrad, Ahab, and Nib Creaper are all good pens for $14-20. Next up I would recommend is the TWSBI Mini or 580 which won't be out until early March. They're both $50 though, so I don't know if that's out of your price range, but they're amazing pens and fully user-serviceable which I personally love!
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Feb 27, 2013 03:15
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Fayk posted:Thank you for the suggestions. The noodler's flex pens certainly looked affordable, but it sounded like they were barely/hardly 'fine' (Caveat: I've never used a flex nib, new to FPs in general). That was my big concern. My Ahab writes with a pretty fine line if I don't flex it, so you should be fine in that regard. I don't know about any piston fillers you have to disassemble at all, but there are some that have what's called a "blind cap," which is a little bit at the end you have to unscrew to reveal the knob you have to twist to activate the piston. It's so the piston doesn't get accidentally twisted and squirt ink into the cap while in your pocket!
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Feb 27, 2013 05:13
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Pigasus posted:I want to get a set of beginner's fountain pens. I'm considering getting the Pilot Metropolitan, a Lamy Safari with an extra fine tip, and an italic pen. I haven't figured out which italic pen I would get, but I have this $6 Sheaffer pen that I found at Staples and it's the worst fountain pen I have ever used. It just feels so abrasive when I write on the page. Any suggestions for a pen with an italic nib at <$30? The Lamy Safari has a detachable nib that you can buy replacements of in any size. For $12.50 you can get an italic nib (in three different widths) and just swap them out to try them. Someone else more knowledgeable about italics might know more, but I think that's the best bet for an italic nib at less than $30.
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Feb 28, 2013 00:47
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Yep! Lamy pens are always tested with Lamy blue ink but never cleaned out afterward. Give the pen a good rinse with some water and a little ammonia or dish soap to get any of the dried ink out. This is something that should be in the OP!
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Mar 1, 2013 02:15
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Luisfe posted:Edit: Link for future reference  How do you even get ink in that thing? I might be tempted to get one just for the novelty of it. e: Brightman posted:I feel like that pen would be right up the Noodler guy's alley. You can use it in the dark thanks to the flashlight, and if you need to, you can burn the documents so no one can read your If you could swap out that LED for a UV one, it would actually have a practical purpose with the Noodler's blacklight inks!
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Mar 4, 2013 23:16
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secrets.
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How am I supposed to spend my hard-earned American Dollars on some cheap piece of crap that doesn't even work? If I'm paying less than $5 for a 3-in-1, it drat well better be a 3-in-1, and be the scratchiest, paper shreddingest thing on the planet. 
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Mar 4, 2013 23:29
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Yes! Those are actually mentioned in the OP. I'd test them out individually before you give them as gifts, but they're fine pens if they work.
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Mar 5, 2013 04:26
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That Kaweco can be converted to an eyedropper filler if you're willing to invest in an O-ring and some silicone grease. 
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Mar 11, 2013 12:35
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Any good italic nib should do you proper. A music nib would give you even wider lines, and I know the Pilot Parallel comes as wide as 6mm depending on your needs. From what I understand, pens marketed as "calligraphy pens" are pretty poo poo.
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Mar 12, 2013 10:39
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Synastren posted:I'm surprised that no one mentioned that the new 580s are up on TWBSI's site! I updated the OP but I forgot to mention it in the thread.  I really can't wait to get one because I've been wanting a TWSBI with a stub nib, but then I noticed they still sell the stubs for the 540 on their site and now I don't know if I can justify buying another pen.
cobalt impurity fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Mar 16, 2013 |
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Mar 16, 2013 15:51
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Nathan Tardiff is an interesting man and very, very insane. His approach to pens is very simple in that he wants something cheap and affordable so as to be more accessable and also be entirely serviceable and customizable by the user. It's a really cool philosophy and a nice way to get a flex pen that's less expensive than a Falcon. That said, my first Ahab had a nib-ruining manufacturing flaw that should have been spotted in QA and the second one has really uneven engraving on the cap band. They're great pens if you want a cheap eyedropper flex, but don't buy them for looks or user friendliness. Heart of Darkness and Purple Heart are still the two most favourite inks I own. 
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Mar 17, 2013 01:47
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Never trust anyone who posts. I like my pen to be nib-heavy, and most of the pens I have don't like to be posted anyway. I just keep the cap in my left hand or set it somewhere on my desk if I'm shuffling through a lot of papers at once. Yoshi Jjang posted:I have no cap and I must post. One day I just got the urge to check out fountain pens and there happened to be a thread on SA about it. Now I have 6 pens, 7 bottles of ink, and am always looking to expand my collection.
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Mar 18, 2013 22:07
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Prathm posted:Are there any rules about selling pens in this thread? Or should I just post a thread in SA-mart? Yeah, make an SA mart thread but post the link in here too. We need our pen fix!
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Mar 20, 2013 21:34
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Here is a list of all the Noodler's inks and what their properties are from the Goulet Pen Co. site, last updated February 1st. Anything listed as Bulletproof is practically just that: water, bleach, chemical solvents, even goddamn lasers won't budge it. Personally I can recommend Heart of Darkness for a black and 54th Massachusetts for a blue-black.
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Mar 21, 2013 12:08
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Ephphatha posted:What about a nice green-black? I've been working through pretty much all the green samplers from ILovePens and have only got through about 5 colours so far. Haven't found any I like yet (I've tried Private Reserve Ebony Green, Private Reserve Sherwood Green, Pelikan Adventurine and one more sample which has since lost the label). Not exactly a green-black, but this looks like a pretty good bulletproof green. 
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Mar 21, 2013 12:59
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Luisfe posted:I just got a bottle of Heart of Darkness. Is the free pen it comes with safe to use with it (as in, it won't leak horribly when put in a pocket and then put goddamn impossible to remove ink on everything I have?) The only reason I stopped using that pen (which is a Platinum Preppy with no logo) is because I like to write with thicker lines and a Japanese fine just wasn't doing it for me. It's a great little pen and it's so cheap you don't have to worry about losing or breaking it!
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Mar 29, 2013 16:12
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AnimalChin posted:In case anyone was wondering, the 3-in-1 fountain pen, butane lighter, flashlight from dealextreme is actually a 2-in-1 worthless lighter, worthless flashlight. There's no pen in that pen. Thanks for reopening old wounds. My hopes and dreams! 
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Mar 31, 2013 16:23
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PC LOAD LETTER posted:Are there anything like glass nibs out there for ink filled fountain pens? Could've sworn they existed... There are glass dip pens, but I've never heard of a glass nib for a fountain pen. Great Horny Toads! posted:Oh, I have a question. What's the deal with Namiki Falcon's "soft nib"? Is it a flex nib? Is it meant for calligraphy? Is it just meant to be more forgiving of weird grips and angles? Will my left-handed rear end love it dearly? It's a flex nib, but not as flexy as vintage flex nibs or even the Noodler's flex nibs. You could use it for calligraphy since the amount of pressure makes bigger lines. I have no idea how it will do with a left-handed grip, but I imagine it would be the same as any other pen. Left handers feel free to correct me on that!
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Apr 6, 2013 08:36
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Kessel posted:Now I'm wondering if I can write to Lamy Germany and try to send it in to them, or if they'll just tell me to deal with the local distributor/repair company. Wouldn't hurt to try. It's hosed-up how expensive to repair it is over there though.
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Apr 18, 2013 12:51
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