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kirtar
Sep 11, 2011

Strum in a harmonizing quartet
I want to cause a revolution

What can I do? My savage
nature is beyond wild

Brightman posted:

Got my Pilot Metropolitan early today. Goulet Pens threw in a Tootsie Pop with this one...okay.

Came with a Con-20 instead of a Con-50, which ain't that bad considering the 50's capacity is a bit poor. It writes really well, the line is thinner than the medium nib on my VP funnily enough, but the snap cap feels looser than my Lamy Safari, so I don't have a lot of confidence carrying this outside of a shirt pocket. Pen looks nice, writes decently, and for the price it's a great deal, quite deserving of its place in the OP.

Edit: I skimmed the page description on Goulet, the Con-50 is extra and the pen comes with the Con-20 by default.
I seem to remember reading that it wasn't even the Con-20, but some other converter (I think it was the cleaning thing for the Parallel).

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kirtar
Sep 11, 2011

Strum in a harmonizing quartet
I want to cause a revolution

What can I do? My savage
nature is beyond wild

Solkanar512 posted:

Ugh, gently caress Private Reserve. I bought a bottle of Naples Blue, a really nice blue. The drat ink would smear days after writing just because I put my hand on it. Maybe folks have better luck with it, but ugh.

And yeah, the Noodler's dude is kinda crazy, but charming crazy. He'll be like, "gently caress the Fed! I'll make an ink to show them how pissed off I am!" So at least we get nice ink out of the deal.

I really need to try out Iroshizuku at some point. How permanent is that stuff?

Iroshizuku is not permanent if you're looking for waterproof or really anything proof. They are inks designed specifically for color and good behavior permanence be damned.

kirtar
Sep 11, 2011

Strum in a harmonizing quartet
I want to cause a revolution

What can I do? My savage
nature is beyond wild

Fayk posted:

I know some people who prefer Zebra Sarasa/etc gel pens to things like the Pilot G-2.

I have no idea why anyone would use a ballpoint when they can use something like a G2/etc. Ever.

I tended to use Uniball 207s and I know that they had trouble marking some surfaces that ballpoints did fine with. That or it would mark but not dry (such as label tape in the lab).

kirtar
Sep 11, 2011

Strum in a harmonizing quartet
I want to cause a revolution

What can I do? My savage
nature is beyond wild

Solkanar512 posted:

So I've really been wondering something about converting pens to eyedroppers.

I keep hearing that you can't convert pens that are metal because there is a chemical reaction that happens with the ink and everything goes to poo poo. But I keep reading different things, and I don't know which is correct.

1. No ink in metal pens at all.
2. No ink in pens that have more than one type of metal.

What about pens made from a non-reactive metal, say anodized aluminum? What if the ink itself is of a neutral pH? If there is a reaction, are we talking about something that happens over days/weeks/months/years or what?

Really what I'm trying to say is that the Pilot Metro would be a loving amazing eyedropper but I'm wondering what the risk is. Any clue as to the component make up of the pen? If you pull out the converter, it's just plastic and anodized aluminum, right?

EDIT: I mean come on, the nib is metal after all...

I'm fairly certain at least the second one may be an issue since it has to do with galvanic corrosion. I don't know what kind of stuff goes into inks, but if there are any electrolytes, galvanic corrosion could become an issue. I'd have to look up some of the electrochemical potentials to really give an answer of how big of a deal it is.

kirtar
Sep 11, 2011

Strum in a harmonizing quartet
I want to cause a revolution

What can I do? My savage
nature is beyond wild

Synastren posted:

I was thinking about getting a Stub 1.1, but I wanted to ask how it compares to using a Lamy F (everyone else's M) nib. I'm mostly concerned about thickness, and the feel. Are the lines comparable? Smaller than the Lamy F? Larger?

Asking so I know what I nib I'd like on a 580. :ohdear:

I think F is usually around 0.5 and M is usually around 0.7, but this of course will vary based on nib manufacturer, ink, and paper. It's either that or I'm confusing F and EF.

kirtar
Sep 11, 2011

Strum in a harmonizing quartet
I want to cause a revolution

What can I do? My savage
nature is beyond wild

cobalt impurity posted:

The problem with Moleskine is that they don't have consistent paper sources. All the problems that have already been mentioned are because they don't buy all their paper from one manufacturer, and they don't really grade their paper by weight. It's a total crap shoot and, yeah, you're paying for the name.

I have a bunch of Clairefontaine notebooks I use and I love them. Rhodia and Banditapple are also supposed to be pretty good (and Rhodia is owned by Clairefontaine :ssh:).

I will second Clairefontaine. The paper is incredibly smooth and I've only had even a hint bleedthrough from accidentally dumping a drop of ink off of a flex nib. One thing to remember is that you may still have some show through for lack of a better term (sort of like holding a paper up to the light).

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kirtar
Sep 11, 2011

Strum in a harmonizing quartet
I want to cause a revolution

What can I do? My savage
nature is beyond wild

Brightman posted:

My only problem with any "fancy" paper is I tend to forget that the ink generally takes longer to dry on it, and I'll end up smudging something or turning the page too quickly. I haven't had too much trouble with Moleskine myself, but I don't remember exactly what I have that is Moleskine, I wanna say one of the small notebooks (maybe 2) and 1 large one, but that might be something else.

I suppose slow drying is one potential issue with Clairefontaine paper. I usually use an EF nib since I use the notebooks for class so I've never really had much of a problem with that.

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