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BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

What is this??
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Grimey Drawer
That's cool. I had no idea that color film was just a combination of 3 separate R/G/B exposures. But I guess it makes total sense.

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BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

What is this??
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Grimey Drawer
I've never really investigated any film gear other than 35mm, but for some reason I assumed that there were no medium format SLR bodies. Now I have a new (attainable) dream camera I want to save up for. But I should probably get better at photography first.

It's really bigger than it looks in that photo

BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 23:59 on May 29, 2014

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
It's more like piloting a private helicopter to get groceries at the market which is walking distance from your house.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
Ok so at risk of getting laughed out of here, just how bad are those cameras sold at lomography under the absolute best conditions? Like the Diana F+, which I think has a glass lens. Or any others that do. Let's say you bought professional 120 film and had it scanned professionally, is it still gonna look like poo poo? How does it compare to a 35mm p&s?

I've searched a ton of example photos and of course a lot look like junk (unless you really want that lofi look) but it's impossible to tell without knowing the type of film used and if it was scanned properly.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
I figured as much. I was mostly just curious, I swear.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
I'll actually probably save for a Pentax 6x7 but that might not be for a couple years, when I get bored of 35mm

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
my friend works with a guy who shoots it in 120. He has some really nice examples. You can find him on Flickr as sandyphimester

Actually it looks like he's posted more on Instagram under the same name

BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Oct 10, 2014

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
That Chamonix priced at $900 is actually way way way way cheaper for a LF camera "body" than I was expecting it to be. Of course we're talking in photography bucks here. And I know there are a million other accessories required, too.

Just how "cheap" are those plasmat lenses that 8th-snype mentioned?

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

What is this??
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Grimey Drawer

MrBlandAverage posted:

You know, I think we should have a definitive list of items required/recommended for LF, since we talk about it abstractly pretty often, but never very specifically as a whole... here's my first stab at it. Tell me what I'm forgetting or what recommended items should be different.

  • Camera (Recommended: Chamonix 045N-2, $900, or Crown/Speed Graphic, $300)
  • Lens (Recommended: 135-180mm Plasmat-type lens, $100-200)
  • Lensboard (Recommended: generic eBay lensboard to match your camera and lens, $25)
  • Film holders (Recommended: $20 for 2-5 modern plastic type double darkslide holders - Riteway, Lisco Regal, etc.)
  • Film changing tent ($150) or completely light-tight room ($free)
  • Darkcloth (Recommended: BTZS darkcloth, $75, or $free black t-shirt since you probably already have one)
  • Focusing loupe (Recommended: eBay 6x focusing loupe, $80, or $110 Wista 5x focusing loupe)
  • LF capable scanner (Recommended: Epson V700, $600, or used 4990, $200)
  • B&W film (Recommended: Ilford HP5+, $35)

I'm assuming here that you already have a way of metering, B&W development equipment/chems, and a worthwhile tripod.

That's a minimum of $750 or so, or $500 if you already have a LF-capable scanner, going up to $2000 or so if you want to splash out; in other words, actually pretty comparable to digital or smaller-format film.

So what you're saying is that as a 35mm photographer, I should skip MF entirely and go LF? :getin:

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer

try it with a lime posted:

A 6x7 shot of Portra 400 costs about $1.35CAD for me
Are you factoring in dev costs in this?

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
I really want a GW690 myself. I was reading that the shutter needs to be serviced every 5000 shots, and there is a counter on the bottom of the camera that indicates how many actuations have been made. If yours is higher than that, the shutter speeds could be off by a significant amount.

I wonder how much it costs to get serviced and who to send it to.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer

TheJeffers posted:

This is apparently the contact information for Fujifilm's professional equipment repair department in North America.

They don't specify what they'll still work on, so it would probably be best to call them and find out before sending anything in.

I read on some random forum that somebody contacted the NJ Fuji repair department and as of 2013, they no longer service the 690 :(

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer

eggsovereasy posted:

Fuji has some authorized service centers with the gw690 specified as a model they work on listed here: http://www.fujifilmusa.com/support/ServiceSupportProductContent.do?dbid=670678&prodcat=701538&sscucatid=664278

You may want to call first though.

I emailed all of these people and most got back to me saying that they are no longer authorized Fuji repair shops. However Professional Photographic Repair in San Diego quoted me $350 to service the shutter.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
I just bit the bullet on an ebay auction for a GW690II :ohdear:

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
If anyone is interested, there's a really nice looking 690II at only $202 USD right now with less than 12 hours left. Considering $300 is a good deal, you might be able to snag this for even less:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390990773767?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer


This thing looks brand new. The counter only shows 45. I wonder if that's accurate or it's been reset or rolled over 999. Based on the condition, I would believe it's only taken 450 photos.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
My wife is laughing at me because of how clownishly large it is

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
I powered through the first test roll with this thing and people weren't kidding when they said the lens was contrasty.



BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Dec 11, 2014

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
I have no regrets. I was able to take both of those handheld at 1/30s because of the leaf shutter.

BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Dec 11, 2014

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
You can get some pretty decent results out of year-old C-41 chems







drat flickr sharpening

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer




Ran out of distilled water for the final rinse so I had water spots all over the goddamn place.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer

try it with a lime posted:

You don't have to scan every picture.

yeah you do :spergin:

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
Still amazed at how much detail I can get out of a 6x9 neg after shooting exclusively 35mm for a few years.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
Yeah it recommends 290 mL for one roll so it sounds like you were a little short for two. I always round up to 300 and 600. Google "massive dev chart ratio calculator" to get the proper measurements

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer

ExecuDork posted:

Counterpoint: give up on such bourgeoise concepts as "focus" and "sharpness" and get an old folder. They're great fun.


Yeah you'll be a little surprised at how well they actually perform given the limitations. Just set it at hyperfocal and don't worry about it. The Agfa folder I got from Pompous Rhombus actually makes some pretty sharp images.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
Are shots actually missing that you remember taking? Looks like you just wound too far between each shot.

My Epson scanner only does 1 6x9 shot per strip, cutting off the 2nd half way through. Since 120 film has so many different frame sizes it's impossible to make holders that perfectly line up with every variation.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
Whose true format is 6x9 then? :heysexy:

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
Get the Expositor iPhone app, it'll help you guess exposures better.

Looks like EV11 - Cloud covered daylight, areas in open shade with clear sunlight

At ISO 50 it says to use 1/4s at f16

You might be 2-3 stops over underexposed

BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Feb 15, 2015

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
This amazing thing showed up on local classifieds this weekend for $400. Mamiya Super 23 press camera.



I am not buying it, but just wanted to post it because it looks so cool.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
When I was shopping around for my GW690II I was curious if I could get it CLA'd, so I emailed every authorized Fuji repair center and found out that they had all either closed or no longer service it.

People have mentioned Mark Hama doing good work, but he seems to specialize in Yashica TLRs, though his website claims he repairs all cameras.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
When a camera repair guide tells you to use oil very sparingly, please follow that advice.

The 80mm lens that came with my Mamiya C220 was behaving weirdly. The shutter wouldn't move unless you manually cocked and fired it a half dozen times. Needed to warm up I guess. The shutter speeds were off as well, at least according to my home made shutter speed tester.

I took it apart (surprisingly easy) and thought maybe it needed a bit of lubrication after all these years. The guide I was following said to use the smallest amount of oil possible, but I still used too much. A bunch of it seeped onto the shutter and aperture blades

:negative:

Just spent the last two hours cleaning them as best as I could using rosonol and isopropyl. At least I think I fixed the shutter, but I'm gonna let it sit overnight and see if it's still working the same after resting for a few hours.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
Can anyone tell me if I have the exposure compensation figured out properly on my Mamiya C220? There is a guide on the side of the camera that shows a bar with numbers across it. At infinity, it says 1x, and as you focus closer it shows numbers 1.5, 2, 3 and eventually 4 at the closest focus distance. Does this mean I should multiply my exposure by the number indicated? So when the number is at 2x, I should increase by +1 stop? Does that mean a 1.5x exposure would be a half stop? 4x is +2 stops so that makes sense, so would 3x be +1.5 stops?. I don't know why they just didn't give you +/- stop values and instead used this weird multiplier method.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
I have a dark "room" in that my basement has no windows, and if I close the basement door and turn off all the lights, it's pitch black. But really, all you need is a changing bag to get your film loaded in the development tank, and then you can do your development in the light.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
In Canada it's getting prohibitively expensive to have labs do the processing for you. A single roll of 35mm costs $6-7 to get processed at London Drugs and it's getting harder to find a walmart that still does film. Lab processed b&w is even more expensive because they have to mail it out, and let's not even talk about slide film.

Doing b&w at home comes to less than a dollar per roll in chemicals

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer

Demon_Corsair posted:

I just found out that London Drugs no longer ships out medium and large format film. Does anyone know a good lab left in Canada? Bonus points if something new has popped up in Calgary...

I think the camera store will still do it, or at least mail it out. Or take it as a sign you need to start doing your own

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer

Demon_Corsair posted:

Apparently they have started stocking c-41 (and hopefully e-6) chems. How hard is it to do those at home?

I hope to god that's true. I know of only one other place in Quebec to order E-6 chems in Canada.

C-41 is as easy as B&W to do at home, if not easier. The temp control needs to be a bit more consistent, but there is only one set of timings to memorize unlike B&W. You don't need any fancy equipment either. Just a big pot full of hot water to bring your chems up to temperature, then take it out, and it holds good enough for the ~6 minutes development time when temp is the most critical.

I've never done E-6 at home but I am gonna try it this summer. Doesn't sound any harder than C-41 I think.

BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
Can't seem to focus worth a drat on my Mamiya C220. 90% sure it's operator error, but only a few of my shots came out in focus from this roll :effort:



BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer

deaders posted:

Are you not using hyperfocal focusing for those types of photos?

I should have been but I wasn't

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BANME.sh
Jan 23, 2008

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Grimey Drawer
^^ goddamn

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