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That's cool. I had no idea that color film was just a combination of 3 separate R/G/B exposures. But I guess it makes total sense.
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# ¿ Apr 3, 2014 23:36 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 11:42 |
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I've never really investigated any film gear other than 35mm, but for some reason I assumed that there were no medium format SLR bodies. Now I have a new (attainable) dream camera I want to save up for. But I should probably get better at photography first. It's really bigger than it looks in that photo BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 23:59 on May 29, 2014 |
# ¿ May 29, 2014 23:54 |
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It's more like piloting a private helicopter to get groceries at the market which is walking distance from your house.
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# ¿ Jul 6, 2014 16:37 |
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Ok so at risk of getting laughed out of here, just how bad are those cameras sold at lomography under the absolute best conditions? Like the Diana F+, which I think has a glass lens. Or any others that do. Let's say you bought professional 120 film and had it scanned professionally, is it still gonna look like poo poo? How does it compare to a 35mm p&s? I've searched a ton of example photos and of course a lot look like junk (unless you really want that lofi look) but it's impossible to tell without knowing the type of film used and if it was scanned properly.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2014 02:00 |
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I figured as much. I was mostly just curious, I swear.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2014 02:22 |
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I'll actually probably save for a Pentax 6x7 but that might not be for a couple years, when I get bored of 35mm
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2014 19:01 |
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my friend works with a guy who shoots it in 120. He has some really nice examples. You can find him on Flickr as sandyphimester Actually it looks like he's posted more on Instagram under the same name BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Oct 10, 2014 |
# ¿ Oct 10, 2014 02:38 |
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That Chamonix priced at $900 is actually way way way way cheaper for a LF camera "body" than I was expecting it to be. Of course we're talking in photography bucks here. And I know there are a million other accessories required, too. Just how "cheap" are those plasmat lenses that 8th-snype mentioned?
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2014 18:45 |
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MrBlandAverage posted:You know, I think we should have a definitive list of items required/recommended for LF, since we talk about it abstractly pretty often, but never very specifically as a whole... here's my first stab at it. Tell me what I'm forgetting or what recommended items should be different. So what you're saying is that as a 35mm photographer, I should skip MF entirely and go LF?
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2014 23:25 |
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try it with a lime posted:A 6x7 shot of Portra 400 costs about $1.35CAD for me
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# ¿ Nov 15, 2014 02:58 |
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I really want a GW690 myself. I was reading that the shutter needs to be serviced every 5000 shots, and there is a counter on the bottom of the camera that indicates how many actuations have been made. If yours is higher than that, the shutter speeds could be off by a significant amount. I wonder how much it costs to get serviced and who to send it to.
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2014 19:47 |
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TheJeffers posted:This is apparently the contact information for Fujifilm's professional equipment repair department in North America. I read on some random forum that somebody contacted the NJ Fuji repair department and as of 2013, they no longer service the 690
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2014 20:02 |
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eggsovereasy posted:Fuji has some authorized service centers with the gw690 specified as a model they work on listed here: http://www.fujifilmusa.com/support/ServiceSupportProductContent.do?dbid=670678&prodcat=701538&sscucatid=664278 I emailed all of these people and most got back to me saying that they are no longer authorized Fuji repair shops. However Professional Photographic Repair in San Diego quoted me $350 to service the shutter.
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# ¿ Dec 2, 2014 17:20 |
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I just bit the bullet on an ebay auction for a GW690II
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# ¿ Dec 5, 2014 04:26 |
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If anyone is interested, there's a really nice looking 690II at only $202 USD right now with less than 12 hours left. Considering $300 is a good deal, you might be able to snag this for even less: http://www.ebay.com/itm/390990773767?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
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# ¿ Dec 5, 2014 21:04 |
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This thing looks brand new. The counter only shows 45. I wonder if that's accurate or it's been reset or rolled over 999. Based on the condition, I would believe it's only taken 450 photos.
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# ¿ Dec 10, 2014 21:50 |
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My wife is laughing at me because of how clownishly large it is
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# ¿ Dec 10, 2014 22:52 |
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I powered through the first test roll with this thing and people weren't kidding when they said the lens was contrasty. BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Dec 11, 2014 |
# ¿ Dec 11, 2014 07:25 |
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I have no regrets. I was able to take both of those handheld at 1/30s because of the leaf shutter.
BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Dec 11, 2014 |
# ¿ Dec 11, 2014 07:38 |
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You can get some pretty decent results out of year-old C-41 chems drat flickr sharpening
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2014 09:02 |
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Ran out of distilled water for the final rinse so I had water spots all over the goddamn place.
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# ¿ Dec 20, 2014 09:13 |
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try it with a lime posted:You don't have to scan every picture. yeah you do
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# ¿ Dec 20, 2014 09:18 |
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Still amazed at how much detail I can get out of a 6x9 neg after shooting exclusively 35mm for a few years.
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# ¿ Dec 22, 2014 23:31 |
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Yeah it recommends 290 mL for one roll so it sounds like you were a little short for two. I always round up to 300 and 600. Google "massive dev chart ratio calculator" to get the proper measurements
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# ¿ Dec 26, 2014 06:42 |
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ExecuDork posted:Counterpoint: give up on such bourgeoise concepts as "focus" and "sharpness" and get an old folder. They're great fun. Yeah you'll be a little surprised at how well they actually perform given the limitations. Just set it at hyperfocal and don't worry about it. The Agfa folder I got from Pompous Rhombus actually makes some pretty sharp images.
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# ¿ Jan 19, 2015 17:16 |
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# ¿ Jan 26, 2015 19:47 |
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Are shots actually missing that you remember taking? Looks like you just wound too far between each shot. My Epson scanner only does 1 6x9 shot per strip, cutting off the 2nd half way through. Since 120 film has so many different frame sizes it's impossible to make holders that perfectly line up with every variation.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2015 23:31 |
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Whose true format is 6x9 then?
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2015 04:00 |
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Get the Expositor iPhone app, it'll help you guess exposures better. Looks like EV11 - Cloud covered daylight, areas in open shade with clear sunlight At ISO 50 it says to use 1/4s at f16 You might be 2-3 stops over underexposed BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Feb 15, 2015 |
# ¿ Feb 15, 2015 20:12 |
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This amazing thing showed up on local classifieds this weekend for $400. Mamiya Super 23 press camera. I am not buying it, but just wanted to post it because it looks so cool.
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# ¿ Feb 23, 2015 19:40 |
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When I was shopping around for my GW690II I was curious if I could get it CLA'd, so I emailed every authorized Fuji repair center and found out that they had all either closed or no longer service it. People have mentioned Mark Hama doing good work, but he seems to specialize in Yashica TLRs, though his website claims he repairs all cameras.
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2015 20:40 |
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When a camera repair guide tells you to use oil very sparingly, please follow that advice. The 80mm lens that came with my Mamiya C220 was behaving weirdly. The shutter wouldn't move unless you manually cocked and fired it a half dozen times. Needed to warm up I guess. The shutter speeds were off as well, at least according to my home made shutter speed tester. I took it apart (surprisingly easy) and thought maybe it needed a bit of lubrication after all these years. The guide I was following said to use the smallest amount of oil possible, but I still used too much. A bunch of it seeped onto the shutter and aperture blades Just spent the last two hours cleaning them as best as I could using rosonol and isopropyl. At least I think I fixed the shutter, but I'm gonna let it sit overnight and see if it's still working the same after resting for a few hours.
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# ¿ May 3, 2015 06:32 |
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Can anyone tell me if I have the exposure compensation figured out properly on my Mamiya C220? There is a guide on the side of the camera that shows a bar with numbers across it. At infinity, it says 1x, and as you focus closer it shows numbers 1.5, 2, 3 and eventually 4 at the closest focus distance. Does this mean I should multiply my exposure by the number indicated? So when the number is at 2x, I should increase by +1 stop? Does that mean a 1.5x exposure would be a half stop? 4x is +2 stops so that makes sense, so would 3x be +1.5 stops?. I don't know why they just didn't give you +/- stop values and instead used this weird multiplier method.
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# ¿ May 4, 2015 19:00 |
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I have a dark "room" in that my basement has no windows, and if I close the basement door and turn off all the lights, it's pitch black. But really, all you need is a changing bag to get your film loaded in the development tank, and then you can do your development in the light.
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# ¿ May 19, 2015 17:33 |
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In Canada it's getting prohibitively expensive to have labs do the processing for you. A single roll of 35mm costs $6-7 to get processed at London Drugs and it's getting harder to find a walmart that still does film. Lab processed b&w is even more expensive because they have to mail it out, and let's not even talk about slide film. Doing b&w at home comes to less than a dollar per roll in chemicals
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# ¿ May 19, 2015 19:51 |
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Demon_Corsair posted:I just found out that London Drugs no longer ships out medium and large format film. Does anyone know a good lab left in Canada? Bonus points if something new has popped up in Calgary... I think the camera store will still do it, or at least mail it out. Or take it as a sign you need to start doing your own
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# ¿ May 25, 2015 15:27 |
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Demon_Corsair posted:Apparently they have started stocking c-41 (and hopefully e-6) chems. How hard is it to do those at home? I hope to god that's true. I know of only one other place in Quebec to order E-6 chems in Canada. C-41 is as easy as B&W to do at home, if not easier. The temp control needs to be a bit more consistent, but there is only one set of timings to memorize unlike B&W. You don't need any fancy equipment either. Just a big pot full of hot water to bring your chems up to temperature, then take it out, and it holds good enough for the ~6 minutes development time when temp is the most critical. I've never done E-6 at home but I am gonna try it this summer. Doesn't sound any harder than C-41 I think.
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# ¿ May 25, 2015 22:55 |
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Can't seem to focus worth a drat on my Mamiya C220. 90% sure it's operator error, but only a few of my shots came out in focus from this roll
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# ¿ May 30, 2015 07:07 |
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deaders posted:Are you not using hyperfocal focusing for those types of photos? I should have been but I wasn't
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# ¿ May 30, 2015 17:38 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 11:42 |
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^^ goddamn
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2015 05:27 |