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Spedman posted:If portability is important, you have to go the RB67, the 4x5 will be impossible to walk around with. Also 4x5 incurs a lot of little bits a pieces to actually do properly, do have any 4x5 film holders? Do you have a sturdy tripod? Do you have anyone nearby that'll process the 4x5 for you? Are you willing to do it? I personally would follow the conventional wisdom and get the medium format first, then jump to large format later if you're still keen. Awesome. You can always tray develop but this is pretty much how I was taught to develop. Avoid retouching areas that the developer missed. Pretty sure I've posted these. Defects can be fun too... (same person in both photos) One from last weekend:
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2013 21:44 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 13:40 |
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Spedman posted:I remember seeing those shots when you put them up last time, and thy just made me even more excited about doing tintypes. That latest one with the well dressed gentleman is fantastic, all the tones are there. Were you shooting with an Aeroektar or something else with a huge aperture? Thanks! I was shooting with a Dallmeyer 3B that belongs to my teacher. He does tintypes at a state park here every first Saturday of the month where there are volunteers in period attire. I drive out and assist for practice and take my own photos too. I'm having issues with my plate holder so I didn't even bring my camera last time. Here's another one from that weekend with the same lens. My teacher composed and took the photo but I poured and developed.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2013 00:06 |
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QPZIL posted:I would loooooove to do wet plates, where do you buy the uh... plates? And chemicals? Bostick & Sullivan has chemistry and plates if you want a one stop shop. Depending on where you live the hardest thing to get could be the grain alcohol, which needs to be at least 95%. Check around town and see if you have a chemistry supply shop before you buy online as you may be able to save some money. I've been ordering plates through my teacher so save money on shipping. He gets them through a trophy store that just cuts down whole sheets of aluminum to order. Lund photo has some nice dipping tanks etc but they're not cheap. I've seen some people just make their own, or use trays.
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2013 00:17 |
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Spedman posted:So you're shooting an 8x10 with a 4x5 back or just 8x10 plates? I'm guessing from the Dallmeyer lens, which looks to be the more sophisticated cousin of my Dallmeyer 8" f/2.9 lens which I was shooting with. The camera I normally use is 5x7 but that day we were shooting whole plates (6.5 x 8.5 inch) and half plates (4.25 x 5.5 inch) with a reducing back. My plate holder was fabricated from a dry plate holder but it has been giving me problems. Note the corners on the top dark slide. When it gets damp they bend and the dark slide jams. I've tried modern dark slides and they drag across my plates, leaving areas where the developer wont pool unless I'm tray developing. [Mod Edit: TABLES] Somebody fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Feb 11, 2013 |
# ¿ Feb 11, 2013 03:23 |
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More wet plate / reenactor portraits yesterday. A retired Gunnery Sergeant as General Grant. My teacher's portable darkbox after a new girl trashed it. The fixer is kept outside the darkbox/away from developer in tank like the silver nitrate.
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# ¿ Mar 3, 2013 20:57 |
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Spedman posted:WAY harder, health and safety regulations are very strict here, it's pretty much an industry unto itself. In order to ship the tintype chemicals around 100km you're looking at >$200 in shipping for a specialist courier. Ellie Young who runs Gold Street Studios where I did the workshop also sells tintype kits just like B&S, and she's more than happy to drop them off at a Melbourne photography shop for you to pick up. If it wasn't for her I wouldn't be able to do wet plate, it'd be just too much red tape and . Wow, and I thought I had it bad trying to get 190 proof Everclear in California (can't order online)... For a tub of potassium cyanide you basically just have to show two forms of ID and sign an affidavit saying you promise not to murder anyone. Spedman posted:I don't think it's terribly difficult to learn how to do, and you can get ready made kits from Bostic and Sullivan for a reasonable price (if you're in the US), so knowing in depth chemistry isn't required. I agree, workshops will definitely save you some headaches/money in the long run but they're not required. I have no chemistry knowledge, but everything is broken down for you if you get your hands on a manual of some sort. I have been taking it slow myself, learning from others who have taken workshops with people like Will Dunniway & Mark Osterman while I get my own gear up and running. These guys have been doing it for 5-6+ years and still bounce questions off their friends/colleagues regularly.
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# ¿ Mar 4, 2013 06:47 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 13:40 |
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MrBlandAverage posted:idk this is also a 20x24 and this guy seems pretty happy Photographer Luther Gerlach
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# ¿ Jul 28, 2014 02:21 |