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beergod posted:Is the VR worth an extra $150? Is it a significant upgrade over a Nikon kit? I'm trying to decide if I want the Tamron or a Nikon 10-24. VC (Tamrons VR acronym) is not worth the price of admission. The Tamron Non-VC 17-50 2.8 is going to blow your kit lens out of the water. And before you ask in a future post, the lens is filled with bees. 
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Feb 20, 2013 19:38
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Atticus_1354 posted:Is the Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 Di LD Macro worth getting for my D5100. I have a Nikon 55-200 but want something with more reach that can also focus closer up so I can switch to shooting plants without putting on my 35mm. Save up for the VC version. Miles better.
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Feb 22, 2013 19:26
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fknlo posted:I apologize. Was just going with what I'd heard. lovely was probably the wrong weird to use anyway. In the photo world, hearing something sucks vs actually using it and then being able to say it sucks, is bad. Dont assume Krock or DPreview are the word of god. Kit lenses are fine for what they are.
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Mar 6, 2013 16:51
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SoundMonkey posted:I'd actually been thinking about getting the 18-135 despite having the 18-55 already. It'd be a snype up from what I currently have, especially with the quiet AF. I borrowed my buddies NIKON 18-135 for a few weeks when he got his D80 (YEARS AGO) and I liked it. For me its a good general use lens for anyone just starting out or wants to not lug around the holy trinity of glass. With today's ISO performance the slow apertures wont hold you back much at the wide end anyways.
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Mar 6, 2013 22:49
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Mr. Despair posted:You really have to start pixel peeping to see the differences. Can we agree that this is a wasteful worthless effort. Just take some pictures.
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Mar 6, 2013 23:04
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Is it hard to just put the focus cross hair on the eye, focus then recom..... oh, i forgot where i was
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Mar 7, 2013 18:26
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simosimo posted:The OP is probably more helpful than any guide or manual I've read yet, if only I could find more helpful-practical advice rather than empty factual instructions [i'm a newbie, don't quote f-stops at me just yet!] Shop owners will kindly tell you to gently caress off. More and more are getting fed up with food photos. Its not as bad when its a cellphone or a tiny crappy point and shoot, most find DSLRs as crossing the line. Recently (saturday) I watched 3 people asked to kindly put their cameras away by wait-staff. One protested, manager kindly told them to leave. There is a movement to curb this type of distracting photography within the food world. Be mindful of it and dont be a jerk when asked to put your camera away. As for where to share your boring food photos? we have a thread in here where you will be mocked accordingly (if you dont shoot 120/4x5)and you should probably just stick to facebook/tumblr/flickr as your social sharing sites.
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Mar 18, 2013 15:40
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evil_bunnY posted:Who the gently caress does that when people shoot the food they just ordered? Places that are fed up with the commotion of it all. I can name dozens of places ive eaten, local and not that have flat out told patrons to put their cameras away and eat. May not be a major distraction at Applebees but it is when its a place that seats less than 20. The advice is to be mindful of your surroundings and not be an insufferable tool with a camera.
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Mar 18, 2013 16:04
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evil_bunnY posted:Haha. If you mind my 30s of pointing a flashless DLSR at the food I just bought chances are I don't want to eat where you work. Chances are those places dont need your business either. 
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Mar 18, 2013 17:50
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evil_bunnY posted:Probably not MY RITES!!!! Seriously, shut up and put your camera away and enjoy your Chipotle or whatever.
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Mar 19, 2013 16:35
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ExecuDork posted:
Your local camera place should be able take care of a CLA for your K10. Pentax might do it too. Joke response: Mail it to MrDespair.
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Mar 19, 2013 22:04
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FISHMANPET posted:Got a friend that shoots Nikon with an SB-700 he'll let me borrow. Ya done slid down the slippery slope. Next step, Model Mayham profile... Ceiling bounce will work fine and feel free to mess around with using the flash in manual mode to play with light output for more "art".
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Mar 26, 2013 16:07
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FISHMANPET posted:Don't worry, we're not. Cold feet?
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Apr 12, 2013 21:20
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ShotgunWillie posted:More like divorce. That would unchain him and his dreams of becoming an erotic photographer. She doesnt get his dreams. Sever.
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Apr 12, 2013 21:37
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FISHMANPET posted:I was dumb and didn't think it would cost that much so I didn't even bother to look online. I figured it would be a little more expensive but it'd be OK because I could go to a store and figure out of it was the battery or the charger. The cheapo chinese 10-bux charger would also have had a power adapter for your car. TWICE THE CHARGING OPTIONS FOR 15BUX. You got ripped off, son
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Apr 15, 2013 15:13
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Sup Noobs. Just posting in this thread to let yall beginners know im selling some amazing entrylevel gear for Nikon http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3125105&pagenumber=144#post414522928
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Apr 18, 2013 15:14
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Shogunner posted:I just pulled the trigger on a T3i + goodies. Kinda feel horrible knowing I just spent 670 bucks butttttt I've always wanted a DSLR. Thats not even the tip of the ice on one of my lenses. Grats, welcome to the expensive hobby.
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Apr 18, 2013 21:12
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hcenvirons posted:I'm using a canon t3i with Lightroom 4.4. The actual jpegs straight from the camera are cropped and missing detail on all four sides while the raws aren't missing this stuff. For instance, I took a portrait shot of a friend where the jpeg cuts off part of his chin while the raw has his shirt and shoulders visible. Post examples. We aint all seeing wizards ya know. I dont think perspective correction is the problem.
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May 2, 2013 01:11
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hcenvirons posted:Except I didn't change any settings between those two shots or at all that day? The cropping just happens randomly regardless of which lens was being used as well. I get what you're saying but I'm not following why there are times that there's no cropping in the jpeg vs the raw. If the camera is putting you in 16:9 randomly, might want to ask Canon why its doing that, not us.
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May 2, 2013 15:16
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FISHMANPET posted:I met my mom's boyfriend's grandson today (so, uh, potential nephew?) and he was having quite a bit of fun taking pictures P&S. I'm wondering if it's possible to get a really cheap older DSLR for him to play with? Like body + lens for a couple hundred bucks? I saw him moving around to take pictures of me from all sorts of different angles and I felt the need to teach him about the golden triangle. D40 and a kit lens. The Dark Wind posted:Not sure if this is the best place to ask this, but I have a basic question about focal lengths and crop sensors. I heard that if you're getting a 50mm for a crop sensor body (like my D5100) you're better off getting a 35mm, since due to the crop it really functions as something like a 50mm (30mm times the 1.5 crop factor gets you about 52.5). I'm wondering if this only refers to the amount of a scene you'll be able to get in frame, or if it also affects lens distortion? I've been reading Scott Kelby's Digital Photography Book (Vol. 1) where he recommends a focal length from about 85mm to 100mm as the sweet spots. If I were to get a new lens with the specific intentions of using it for portrait photography, would I still be looking for something in the neighborhood of those ranges, or would I actually be looking at something in the neighborhood of 55 to 70ish (85/1.5 and 100/1.5)? You are talking about this? http://www.lesjones.com/2011/06/15/effect-of-lens-focal-length-on-portraits/ if so, then yea you want to avoid 17mm for portraits in my opinion. Its a matter of look and feel and not a hard rule. Ive shot plenty of portraits on crop sensors with 35mm lenses all the way up as far as 300mm, you will be fine. Just rememeber that wider lenses will give you that odd look you see in teh example photos in the link above. On crop bodies I still prefer an 85mm 1.8 through 200mm range for portraits. Going over my LR data, most of my portraits are done with an 85mm 1.4 and a 70-200 zoom.
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Jun 7, 2013 15:36
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Another inexpensive option is the Nikon D50 for one reason only, cheaper AF-D lenses will work with it in AF mode.
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Jun 7, 2013 20:45
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Bubbacub posted:Nikon lenses being righty-loosy, lefty-tighty will always feel goofy as all hell to me. I think you are the odd man out on this, not Nikon. Weirdo
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Jun 17, 2013 15:12
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Mr. Despair posted:Nikon has a backwards lens mount, admit it already. YOU'ER BACKWARDS. Honestly I never really noticed.
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Jun 17, 2013 15:23
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Boneitis posted:Commie bastard No, really... Show me an American camera company that does cameras right. Ill wait.
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Jun 17, 2013 17:38
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Go to a store and hold them. Todays entry level cameras are all the same junk plastic formed around good innards. Theres not much difference in IQ between them, its now a matter of ergonomics and which system has a lovely menu system you can work with. The tipping point for some will be whether they have friends who would lend them gear. If you have friends with BRAND NAME CAMERA, it might make sense to get the same BRAND NAME CAMERA so you can borrow their toys. That being said, the D5200 is a good amount of camera for what you pay for. It has some room for you to grow into and wont make you feel limited in 3 years.
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Jul 17, 2013 15:34
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Archer2338 posted:I'm not sure this is the right thread for recommendations, but since this is going to be my parents' DSLR... You should take him to a big box retailer like best buy or an actual camera shop in your area and play around with the OM-D, Fuji XE-1, Nikon D3200/5200 Canon whatever teh gently caress Tinumbered poo poo they are on now. Explain that the sensors in them are pretty much the same when it comes to real world use.
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Jul 23, 2013 19:48
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)? I'm wondering the same. Showed him the Canon S10 point-n-shoot recommended in the gear thread, and he outright said no P&S. I suppose he could be convinced to go down to a digital camera that accepts a lens, but wouldn't that be close enough to a DLSR's weight & price to warrant buying a DSLR anyway?
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ExecuDork posted:I'm still waiting for somebody to get drunk and pick up one of those ridiculous 650mm f/8 el-cheapo superteles (usually advertised as 650-1300mm because they come with a crappy 2x teleconverter) and shoot stalker pics of their neighbour's cat making GBS threads in the rosebushes. KEH has them for cheaper than the Ebay. Tell your drunkself to at least buy the cheapest one you can.
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Aug 28, 2013 15:27
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404notfound posted:people who hold up their ipads to take pictures of stuff are the worsttt Those are the second worst people in photography, they have been replaced by this new sect of insufferable camera user. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/96793993/hasselnuts-hasselblad-camera-iphone-digitalback-ki
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Sep 10, 2013 23:22
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Carlton Banks Teller posted:Today I bought way more camera than I've ever come close to holding (a used Pentax K100D) for a required class. Thanks for this thread, from its first post down through the subsequent replies. The aperture/ISO/shutter speed breakdown in the OP is one of the most clear and concise on the web that I've found all day and just might get me through my first assignment. Any class that requires a pentax of any kind, is a class worth droppin
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Sep 11, 2013 16:08
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Wild EEPROM posted:Someone will show up with a 1ds. ftfy
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Sep 12, 2013 15:17
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SoundMonkey posted:The D90 is really nice, but if you're having trouble finding one, yes the D200 is also a good option (that's what I've been shooting on for the past five years or whatever). Honestly soundmonkey, im shocked your D200 hasnt suffered from bent CF pin at this point.
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Sep 17, 2013 15:25
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EPICAC posted:I have a newbie lens question. I bought my first DSLR, a body only Canon 60D in July, and picked up a used EF 70-300mm f4/5.6 off of the forums. This setup works for me most of the time, since I mostly have been shooting birds and wildlife with the occasional landscape shot thrown in. I'd like to get a wider and faster lens that will work indoors, and something lighter/wider for hiking through some of the narrow trail corridors in New Hampshire. I've seen the Canon 50 mm f/1.8 mentioned as a good budget lens, but I feel like this might not be wide enough on a crop body. Any recommendations? A Tamron 17-50 f2.8 will give you a wide to not so wide field of view than what you already have. It may be outside your budget? Ive used that lens as a general landscape to everything else walk around lens and is a good compliment to the 70-300 range you already has.
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Sep 19, 2013 17:10
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SoundMonkey posted:...and this is why we don't listen to K-Rock for anything other than Nikon lens specifications. The D200/D80 were very prone to needing +.3/.7 comp cuz they flat out got metering wrong mostly. You could count on it being very wrong on sunny days and just kinda wrong on cloudy days. Sometimes you can trust your meter, and other times there's teh EV knob/button
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Sep 30, 2013 22:58
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kopasetic posted:Hey goons, I need your advice. I'm looking to buy my first DSLR for mostly wildlife and other outdoor photography. My budget is around $800-900 for a body and 2-3 lenses. I'd like to buy used as much as possible to squeeze the most out of my budget. From what I can tell, the Pentax K-5 and the Nikon D7000 seem to be the best bodies I can find for $500-600. Which system should I go with? Nikon Df with 35mm F2 AIS.
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Nov 29, 2013 19:27
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Jymmybob posted:I've kind of been getting ahead of myself by ordering already but I'm just starting to get into the whole DSLR thing. I'm mostly looking for a good starter one that also runs well in auto for when my wife uses it. I know I'm not really asking a lot of modern cameras but I jumped on 2 deals over the past weekend and wanted opinions on which might suit my needs better. First is a Nikon D3200 with 2 lens and the second is a Canon SL1 with 2 lens. They're both essentially $500 but assuming the SL1 isn't uncomfortably tiny I can't decide if I should cancel one or just let them roll in then return the one I don't like. I can't think of many times I'd use the longer lens and would most likely invest in a macro or 35mm prime after possibly selling the zoom lens. Get the nikon because the 35mm Prime will cost you 200bux roughtly vs Canon that will charge you 3 asses and a dick for their 1.4 35mm prime. They do not have any budget FIRST PARTY 35mm primes currently.
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Dec 3, 2013 16:45
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BetterLekNextTime posted:The Canon 40/2.8 is pretty fun and cheap?! Especially on the SL1 that would be practically like a little mirrorless. 40mm is not 35mm 
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Dec 3, 2013 20:25
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Mightaswell posted:3200 crushes the Canon in still image quality, the Canon better at video (maybe). In before someone corrects you about the Canon 40mm 2.8 shitlens.
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Dec 3, 2013 23:56
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McCoy Pauley posted:Thanks for the advice. I went with the Tokina 11-16mm after renting it and staring at flickr river and stupid charts and pictures of walls and its a good lens corner to corner. Its a good lens and you can buy it used and resell it for about the same. Musket fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Dec 6, 2013 |
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Dec 6, 2013 03:05
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McCoy Pauley posted:Thanks. Musket -- which Tokina do you use, the 12-24 or the 11-16? I believe the 12-24 has a manual focus version and an AF version, and I'm thinking that for wide-angle stuff, AF probably isn't super important all that often (as Duke suggests), right? I went with the 11-16mm. AF isnt super important when you are shooting f11 at 11mm, however I did not just use my 11-16 for landscapes or did I use it at f11 all the time. Its up to you to determine if AF is worth it to you or not. I liked it for the convenience of not having to do it, but had the option if I felt the need to. Also if you are still considering the Sigma, be sure its been "fixed" to function on the D5100. There was an AF issue with them that had firmware fixes issued. Musket fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Dec 6, 2013 |
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Dec 6, 2013 04:15
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GunForumMeme posted:Thanks for the insight. http://www.mefoto.com/products/backpacker.aspx my city/travel non CF tripod that i can toss in a bag nbd (fits in a med timbuk2 bag).
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Dec 10, 2013 16:44
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