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I've had descent results using a business card to bounce a flash upward, apart from the fact that it blinds me every time even if I'm looking through the viewfinder.
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Feb 15, 2013 04:17
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 01:21 |
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A major freeway interchange.
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Feb 16, 2013 03:50
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beergod posted:What is baseline shutter speed for photographing moderate-speed activity, like dogs rough housing? When I'm at the dog park I generally set Auto ISO to 1/1000, assuming there's enough light to keep ISO from getting too high.  When it starts getting dusky I'll ratchet down to 1/500 and often enough get decent results, but it can be pretty hit or miss.  (Just dandy)  (Good at this size, but click through and it's a bit blurry)  (eeeeeehhhhhh....) Tayter Swift fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Feb 17, 2013 |
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Feb 17, 2013 05:44
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I almost never shoot shutter priority -- I just shoot wide open unless I have a good reason not to or I'm using the 35/1.8. The grass at my dog park is pretty drat ugly so the less attention I can draw to it the better  I just use Auto ISO to keep 1/1000s minimum, which is why you'll see all kind of weird ISO figures in the EXIF.
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Feb 18, 2013 17:08
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Yeah I don't have a critical enough eye built up that I'm going to fret over absolute sharpness when I pixel peep, I just really don't like resorting to a flash and sometimes you just gotta shoot shoot shoot 
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Feb 19, 2013 03:25
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DaveKap posted:Went to both threads you're talking about and the latest pages have zero mention of "LED." On top of that, I don't know how to change my ACR camera profile. So, consider me still stuck. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3184774&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=149#post412504487
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Feb 19, 2013 04:34
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SoundMonkey posted:Multicoated high-refractive-index optical bees. But still bees. The bees provide the ISO buckets. Bryan told me so.
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Feb 20, 2013 20:09
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I didn't shell out no two hundred dollars to set my 35 at no f/3.5  Instead I spent it to get exacting sharpness on Taters nose while his eyes stay just a tad soft. God drat it.
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Mar 7, 2013 05:53
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This is why you just always use Live View.
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Mar 10, 2013 08:12
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That is precisely the point of the book. For now I'd say don't worry about exposure/aperture/iso and focus on going through the camera manual and look at the other features -- how to change white balance, how to actually adjust ISO when you need to, how to change back to default settings etc. That said, for just about all 'walking around and shooting situations' I think most people put it in Aperture or Shutter priority (might be Tv and Av on your camera, dunno). This lets you select one of aperture or shutter speed to pin down, and lets the camera figure out the other one so you don't have to do the calculations in your head. Most of my shooting is aperture priority, with shutter priority occasionally useful when I'm in a less-than-bright room and need all the help I can get.
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Aug 30, 2013 17:41
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Tenacious J posted:So does that mean the only setting you ever really fiddle with is aperture? As in, set the zoom, set the aperture, take the picture - is that common? I just got my camera but assumed there were many different settings that you needed to balance at all times for the best picture, I didn't think it was so simple - am I missing something? Well it definitely depends on what and where you're shooting, but I generally let the camera set most if not all aspects. For example, I shoot at the dog park a lot, watching my dog chase and wrassle. Them fuckers move fast and I don't have time to fiddle with settings. I know from experience I generally need 1/1000 to eliminate blur when they're moving around a lot. I set aperture to minimum to get the most light (f/4 to f/5.6 on my long zoom lens), and set the auto-ISO (a relatively complicated feature on Nikons but pretty cool once you get used to it, if cumbersome to set up) to raise the ISO to whatever it needs so ensure my shutter speed is 1/1000. The rest of my time there I let the camera do the rest.  (~200mm, f/5.6 for 1/1000s, ISO 140) I generally shoot Aperture Priority when I'm at the dog park because I want to be able to control the depth of field. There's no difference going from 1/1000 to 1/2000 if motion is frozen anyway, but changing the aperture will change what's in focus and what isn't. Last weekend I was at the Pacific Pinball Museum in Alameda. I knew going in that it wasn't going to be the most well-lit area and would need all the help I could get, and that zooming in wouldn't be an issue. I took my fastest lens -- the 35mm f/1.8 -- set it on Shutter Priority for 1/60s (slowest I thought I could get away with hand-held), cranked the ISO to a constant 3200 and let the camera set the aperture the whole time.  (35mm, f/2.5 for 1/60s, ISO 3200) Most photos wound up being f/1.8 here, tho with a few tables in a better-lit hallway I got a bit more. Really needed Nik's noise reduction software in post to clean these up though, 3200ISO was rather pushing it. If I were a ~serious~ photographer doing studio shots or other things already set up I'd be a good bit more conscious about the settings but most the time? Nah, just know how aperture/shutter/ISO interact, think generally about what and where you're shooting, set as much as you can and enjoy pressing the button.
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Aug 30, 2013 22:36
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FISHMANPET posted:Is there some kind of good guide for dummies on using the Auto-ISO on Nikon? I've been doing manual ISO on Aperture priority, and then manually adjusting the ISO until the meter gives me an exposure time I'll be happy with. (Wrote this half a year ago) It helps to think of Auto ISO as a complement to Aperture/Shutter Priority to complete Scott Petersen's (pbuh) Photographic Triangle. Aperture Priority lets the user lock down aperture and ISO by letting shutter speed float as needed to get a correct exposure. Shutter Priority lets the user lock down shutter speed and ISO by letting the aperture float. Auto ISO lets the user lock down aperture and shutter speed, by letting the ISO float. Unfortunately it also tends to over ride the other two modes (shutter priority in particular), because ~Nikon~. For example, when I'm at the dog park shooting some terrier chasing a ball, I know I need a shutter speed of 1/1000s, which usually means I'll need to bump the ISO. I set the minimum speed in Auto ISO to 1/1000, choose the max ISO it'll reach (say 3200), then set the camera to f/5.6 and shoot shoot, knowing the shutter speed won't go below 1/1000. If it's really bright out and that's still too slow for a good exposure even at ISO 100 then the camera will still use 1/1250 or whatever it needs. One nice thing about it on the 3100 is that the camera is allowed to select ISO settings between stops. If it's too dark for ISO 400 the user can only bump up to ISO 800, but the camera can choose ISO 640 if it wants. Now, let's say it's starting to get dark, and you want to ratchet down to 1/250 or so for some close-ups. No problem, go to shutter priority, select 1/250 and... you can't. That's because you selected 1/1000s in Auto ISO and you can't override it without turning it off, because ~Nikon~. It's a fantastic deal for action/sports/dog watching, but its set-and-forget nature can bite you in the rear end when that's exactly what you do.
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Aug 31, 2013 06:18
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Yeah I do the business card trick fairly often. Blinds me every time though. It's also useful for fill flash if you dial it down a bit.
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Sep 9, 2013 16:10
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 01:21 |
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It's worth trying once, if only for the whoa factor of having a 10" viewfinder. Only once, though.
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Sep 11, 2013 01:02
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