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fknlo posted:So imagine my surprise when I open up my new camera box, and instead of the 18-55mm lens I'm expecting it has the 18-135mm lens. Thanks Best Buy! Time to learn how to use this thing. Sell it, buy the 18-55, it's a better lens.
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Feb 22, 2013 01:19
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Question Mark Mound posted:That camera sim in the OP is so much fun, I'm getting no work done just messing around with it! No. The canon 1xxx series are not good choices. The T2i/3i/4i are good choices. That's the 600D/650D. Buy used/refurb.
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Jul 4, 2013 13:37
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Question Mark Mound posted:Cool stuff, I'll keep an eye out for those. What makes the 1xxx series worth avoiding? They're deliberately underpowered by Canon. Lesser autofocus, sensor, controls, and construction. The T2i is a good compromise.
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Jul 4, 2013 14:14
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Question Mark Mound posted:I have to admit, Canon's numbering system is confusing the hell out of me. The T2i is also the 550D, but the 550D and 600D are better than the 1100D despite having a smaller number. I'm so used to the simplicity of "bigger numbers mean higher up in the range" for so many devices. Have you looked used? KEH, adorama and b& h (plus amazon) will have used options.
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Jul 4, 2013 15:12
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Ezekiel_980 posted:Quick question about SD cards, does it particularly matter what kind I use in a camera? I picked up a nikon D7000 recently and my slightly wacko dad said I should go out and get some $60 high speed cards while I went ahead and got some $10 ones from amazon. Yes and no. No impact on most shots, but low transfer rates impact video and high speed shooting, as the buffer can't clear fast enough. High speed is worth it.
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Jul 7, 2013 13:48
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kopasetic posted:Hey goons, I need your advice. I'm looking to buy my first DSLR for mostly wildlife and other outdoor photography. My budget is around $800-900 for a body and 2-3 lenses. I'd like to buy used as much as possible to squeeze the most out of my budget. From what I can tell, the Pentax K-5 and the Nikon D7000 seem to be the best bodies I can find for $500-600. Which system should I go with? KEH has some great black Friday stuff thru the weekend.
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Nov 30, 2013 04:20
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Musket posted:I am in no way limited by JPG with my files. I used to shoot nothing but NEF files cuz lets face it, Nikon knows dick about JPG files. I shot RAF for a few weeks with my Fuji, Found that I dont need to shoot RAW, the JPG nails it. As for more detailed heavyhanded editing, I have had not one problem using jpg. If i really needed to have a raw file these days, I use slidefilm Yes, your camera does well at jpegs, so what? The point isn't that the basic jpeg in camera is good enough, but it is inherently limiting. If you take snapshots or journalistic type shots, that's fine, but your camera can't, not ever, make selections, sharpen some, blur others, bring up the shadows and dial back the highlights. And, you can't edit jpegs well to do those things, either. Raw is simply more flexible, it has all the data, not all the data your camera's small processor thinks is important, which is less than half the data.
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Jan 6, 2014 01:27
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SoundMonkey posted:I shoot JPEG almost 100% of the time, including paid shoots. I might switch up to RAW if I know something's going to be a huge pain in the rear end later, but most of the time it ain't worth it (for me). I can push/pull JPEGs nearly a stop before it looks like poo poo, and if I have to do more than that, it means I'm an idiot who should have switched to RAW for those shots / should have checked his WB / should have looked at the image on the LCD / etc. Sure, there are reasons to shoot jpeg, and they're not unworkable. But to say, "I'm in no way limited by jpeg," as he did, is simply a factually incorrect thing to say. Jpeg is much more limited, in every way.
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Jan 6, 2014 02:11
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SoundMonkey posted:I should qualify that statement I guess. I am in no way limited by JPEG when shooting the type of photos I usually shoot. Primarily it's a convenience thing (card/disk space, etc), but even if I shot raw all the time my cold storage bill would only be a couple bucks more a month. Yes. JPEG is great, and getting better. Musket is completely right to be happy with them, and I don't actually advise raw versus jpeg as an absolute position. Most of my shots involve little adjusting that make raw better. This forum is good about not being too crazy about that fight, which is why musket's absolutist position rubbed me wrong.
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Jan 6, 2014 03:25
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Musket posted:RAW: Cuz i got it wrong the first time MUSKET: Wrong the first, last and every time.
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Jan 9, 2014 01:22
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:I just switch to AI Servo and then hold the back button down. This. If you're shooting fast moving subjects, you don't want single shot focus, and AI servo with your thumb is still better than combining it with the shutter.
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Nov 3, 2014 03:39
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Dren posted:I tried using the back button for focus today and I didn't like it much mostly because A, when you hand your camera to someone else, put it on auto anyway. B, what camera? C, try it for longer. Once it becomes natural, you'll wonder why you haven't always done it.
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Nov 3, 2014 15:02
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Dren posted:I read this guy's thing one time about all the different focus modes of the D7000, what each one was especially good at, and how he'd developed a little game to practice using each one so he'd be great at choosing the right AF for the right situation every time like some kind of AF ninja. I played with my AF modes a little more after reading that but what I found was that full auto AF does the right thing almost every time. So I only go in and override it in specific situations when it isn't correct. None of it matters. Back button has more versatility, but if it's awkward, it's not worth it. It's unlikely to make enough difference to overcome the physical discomfort it causes you.
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Nov 4, 2014 15:12
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Eugene Oregon posted:So I've been toying with the back-button focus on my T5i, and I don't think I'm doing it right. If I try to focus on something and press the button, it comes into focus...eventually. But no where near the speed things come into focus when I press the shutter button halfway down. What am I doing wrong? Not holding the button long enough? It engages the same mechanism so it's not going to be any longer. But, it won't fire the shutter if not locked when on the shutter button. Probably just psychological.
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Nov 7, 2014 03:51
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Modus Man posted:My first DSLR! Good job. Start shooting. Don't buy "protective" filters. Read Understanding Exposure. Don't use watermarks. Don't talk about fight club.
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Nov 19, 2014 14:49
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moana posted:Awesome! Okay, I bought the Nikon D3200 and the lens thing I linked, and a 32GB Sandisk Ultra off Amazon. The camera came with a battery and charger, and the lens came with a case, caps, and hood. Are there any other accessories he'll need right off the bat? Get him a copy of Understanding Exposure as part of the package. Really valuable starter info for budding photographers.
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Nov 26, 2014 00:06
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INTJ Mastermind posted:What exactly does Canon mean when they say the 24-105L requires a front filter to complete its weather sealing? Common sense says something is either sealed from the elements or not sealed. If there's one area where water or dust can get in then the entire weather sealing design is moot. It's sealed, but for the front element. With a filter on, the front element is also sealed. When in circumstances where you need the seal, you put on the most appropriate filter.
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Dec 26, 2014 03:08
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INTJ Mastermind posted:But then what prevents Canon from sealing the front element without a filter? I'd expect either cost or mechanics. It's really not a big deal.
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Dec 26, 2014 03:29
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im gay posted:Any recommended reading on how to take long exposure shots? Do I need a remote shutter controller and a filter? Subject? Tripod or sandbag or just a ledge, plus delayed shutter, that's all you HAVE to have.
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Jan 4, 2016 05:23
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Unforgiven posted:I want to buy a camera for my honeymoon trip to Europe this summer. I've read the first few pages of this thread. I have found a Nikon 5200 on Amazon that was made for sell in other countries than the US so it doesn't come with a warranty but it has 2 lenses, a cheap tripod, 2 16g memory cards, 2 batteries, and a carry bag for about $600. Is this a safe purchase? Am I missing the obvious part of the "if it seems too good to be true it probably is" thing? Give a link. Some of the "two lenses" kits are the kit lens and a "2x" lens, which is not a lens, but an attachment to the lens. Some of these kits also have the discontinued lenses, which are not necessarily bad, but may not be that good a choice.
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Apr 2, 2016 15:23
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Unforgiven posted:How do the 18-55mm lenses compare to just a 35mm lens? And if I buy the refurb camera, should I buy a spare 35mm lens? That kit is terrible. Refurb is a good way to go, and the kit lens plus a 35mm f/1.8 is a great starting setup.
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Apr 3, 2016 01:08
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ansel autisms posted:"Crop factor" doesn't make your lens any longer, or change the way your viewfinder works. Your shots at 200mm are at 200mm. Well, sort of. The crop factor does change what he sees in the viewfinder, in that he has a different field of view than a full frame camera would have. Looking thru a FF and a crop viewfinder, assuming they were both 100% view, will present very different images. Just as looking thru a 200mm lens on a medium format camera would present yet another view.
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Jun 27, 2016 01:58
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ansel autisms posted:And yet the confusion only begins when you compare your lens to another camera. A 200mm is a 200mm. Yes, and Canon is guilty of marketing a crop lens as "equivalent to X" accounting for crop factor, which adds to the problem. But, your answer, accurate to a tee, is misleading because of its brevity. My answer can cause confusion, for similar reasons. Field of view changes depending on the size of the sensor/film. Nothing else changes, but that sole change causes a huge amount of consternation that really neither you nor I are helping because we actually know the difference but are talking past the guy who is asking.
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Jun 27, 2016 02:41
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rio posted:You are now as good as anyone else here and don't need any help "As good?"
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Mar 23, 2017 05:13
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tater_salad posted:Or reverse selective color where the chair is the only thing that is black and white. What if the chair IS white? Eh, what about then?
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Jul 2, 2017 00:14
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nmfree posted:Especially then. drat. Well played.
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Jul 2, 2017 02:21
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The general rule is to avoid that series. They're deliberately crippled.
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Dec 28, 2017 05:22
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 07:31 |
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When I have this discussion in the Dorkroom, I don't worry too much that people will misunderstand...except in the "My First DSLR" thread.
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Oct 12, 2018 15:54
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