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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Cage posted:

I can see the paint coming off in the wind...but the corner light??

The cheap aftermarket ones come apart really easily. When I got rid of mine, one was starting to come apart as well.

The aftermarket headlight housings (even the OEM clones) also don't light up the road for poo poo. Most of the really cheap ones are made by Eagle Eyes, DEPO is the only decent aftermarket one for Panthers. My last car had Eagle Eyes housings as well, and even with the projectors, didn't do poo poo to light up the road.

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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Cage posted:

I can see the paint coming off in the wind...but the corner light??

glue gets unstuck, wind at the leading edge chisels at it as it comes arounf the corner of the car.


I'll just quote myself from my thread here:

Darchangel posted:

A large box appeared:




Headlights!


Fancy headlights!



From above, one of my park lights lost it's lens on the highway.


Turns out the other one was on its way as well:


First test fit:

:pwn:

Hmmm. Sticks out a bit with the mounts set as they are out of the box:


Bunch of trial and error to get the headlight positioned nicely, then get it aimed. An additional wrinkle is that they're all one piece - OEM is two pieces: adjustable headlight and fixed side marker - so the side piece has to line up somewhat close. The make the screw hole larger and supply a washer to facilitate some adjustability, but you've still got to get it within a certain range.


Thinking they would work same as OEM, I just put the OE-style adjuster wrench on one of the adjusters and just stared turning it. Which screwed it out of the housing...



The other two still attached:

They just screw in. No ball and socket or at least a spinning captive head. Not a design choice I would have made. At least if you're going to do this, don't put the hex on the end of the screw like it's an adjustable one. This made everything more difficult, because you have to pull the headlight, estimate an adjustment, make the adjustment, put it back, lock it back in with the retainers (at least partially), then lather, rinse, repeat until satisfied.

Along the way, of course I broke one of the mounts.


Thankfully, that one is the one the adjustments basically pivot around on the OEM, so it essentially just needs to hold the headlight a certain distance *away* from the rear of the cavity while the other two can hold it *in*. I can just leave that one there in the header, and it'll do it's job.

BTW, the original wiring was all bare wires except for that one bit of split-loom on each headlight. I added the Tesa cloth tape to make them a little neater.


H3 in the projector, and H1 in the high-beam:


Adapter harness from the OEM 9007 connector to split to the two separate bulbs, and another one to connect the 1157A in the new lights to the OE 2157 connection, plus an 1194 wedge plug to power the LED strip along the bottom of the headlight from the OE side marker connection.

Not bad light:

(both headlights are on, but the right one is the old headlight. They weren't fantastic even when they *weren't* foggy.)

Only got the one headlight in before it got dark and I got frustrated. Second headlight went in next day, a lot more quickly because I knew what to expect, and had measured where I needed to set the mounts from the other light.
Both headlights in:



I had some 1157 amber LEDs hanging around, so tried out one. They're older LEDs, and clearly lacking compared to the 1157A incandescent on the driver's side (to the right, in the picture):

They're both on in that pic...

Looking at the beam pattern on the wall of the parking garage at work this morning, looks like I need to adjust the passenger side down a bit. The driver's side I actually checked (with a marked yard stick) while installing, but the passenger side I just copied the measurements on the mounting screws. Header is apparently a little bit different side to side. It's not *too* high, but the low side of the pattern (you may recall that projectors have a stepped cutoff, lower on the left side, then stepping up a bit on the right, in the US/LHD countries) on the right is at the same height as the high side of the driver's beam. I'd like them both at a little below my hood height. I'll need to grab the tools I need and bring them with me to work - the parking garage is ideal to use to adjust them. Dark enough to see, bright enough (and cooler...) to work, and lovely flat floors and plenty of walls to facilitate aiming.

Then I guess I get to see how long these will last.
I'd love to upgrade to HID projectors. There's a site that will do customs based on Depo OEM replacements, black or chrome, with a bunch of options like better projectors, etching, colors, halos, etc., but they start at like $900. Don't want them that bad. Yet.
Might see about getting a set of projectors and building them myself. I've got the headlight housings already... two sets, even (OE chrome and the aftermarket black ones.)


edit: also may see about retrofitting the OE style adjusters to these headlights. I think I see a way to do it.

And add a couple newer photos.
In the parking garage at work:


Which is also a good place to check the beam pattern.


Little high on the right side. The low "step" on the right is at the same height as the high step for the left side - it should be at the same height as the low step on the left.
Kind of obvious looking at the beam that hits the floor, too:


Right one is about 6" ahead of the left one.

I'll take my tools to work and adjust it after work one day. Haven't really driven in the dark yet, so can't comment on effectiveness, other than it seems to light better in the parking garage.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org




Not going for any world records but it only took me 15 minutes and I didn't even get my hands dirty! Happy friday!!

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Bummer.

Only issue I have is that mine has a limited slip rear, and the donut is smaller than the full sized tires, so if I get a flat on the rear, I have to sap a front back there and put the donut on the front.

Update from my above post - the new headlights work fine. I'd say better than what they replaced, even when they were new.

Lincoln Freak
Sep 11, 2001
The Surgeon General never said anything about smoking the competition!
Whew! Finally got through all 52 pages!

This has been a hell of a thread. I have been a Panther fan for most of my life. My parents owned a fully loaded '87 Country Squire in the late 80's, and my first car was an '86 Grand Marquis. Since then, I have owned the following:

1985 Ford Crown Victoria
1981 Lincoln Continental Mark VI Gevenchi Edition
1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
1986 Lincoln Town Car base model
1986 Lincoln Town Car Cartier Edition
1991 Lincoln Town Car Executive Series

Hence, my forum name. ;)


I'd be happy to answer any questions about the older panthers, as I've had PLENTY of experience with them.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Darchangel posted:

Bummer.

Only issue I have is that mine has a limited slip rear, and the donut is smaller than the full sized tires, so if I get a flat on the rear, I have to sap a front back there and put the donut on the front.

Update from my above post - the new headlights work fine. I'd say better than what they replaced, even when they were new.
I swapped the donut in about 15 minutes and then spent 20 minutes googling on the side of the road because I too have an lsd! I took it slow and swapped it as soon as I could.

Lincoln Freak
Sep 11, 2001
The Surgeon General never said anything about smoking the competition!

Cage posted:

I swapped the donut in about 15 minutes and then spent 20 minutes googling on the side of the road because I too have an lsd! I took it slow and swapped it as soon as I could.

All of my panthers came equipped with full size spares except for my 91 Towncar. The SECOND that I discovered the doughnut in the trunk, I took the extra full size spare from my Grand Marquis and tossed it in the trunk.

Doughnuts are for dunking, not for driving, IMHO. :cop:

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I do have a total of 12 (!!) tired wheels sitting around for this car so I guess I have no excuse!

I just have to sell the original wheels that came with the car. I have 6 of em but they're not exactly cool so I don't look forward to getting rid of them.

Cage fucked around with this message at 12:38 on Sep 12, 2023

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

Cage posted:

I swapped the donut in about 15 minutes and then spent 20 minutes googling on the side of the road because I too have an lsd! I took it slow and swapped it as soon as I could.

FYI, assuming they did the same on the Panthers as the Mustangs, there should be a physical metal tag on one of the diff cover bolts calling out that it's an LSD and needs friction modifier on fluid changes.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

FYI, assuming they did the same on the Panthers as the Mustangs, there should be a physical metal tag on one of the diff cover bolts calling out that it's an LSD and needs friction modifier on fluid changes.
Mine came with an open diff and I had a shop throw a limited slip in there.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

Cage posted:

Mine came with an open diff and I had a shop throw a limited slip in there.

Ahh. Good call. Grandma(rquis) needs to leave proper evidence of burnouts.

Lincoln Freak
Sep 11, 2001
The Surgeon General never said anything about smoking the competition!
I do have a quick question for anyone overly familiar with the DOHC mod motor in the Marauder:

I'm assuming that the 32 valve DOHC motor in the Marauder is the same as the Lincoln Mark VIII and the Mustang Mach I. I'm also assuming that the motor in the 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra is also the same, but with a supercharger bolted on.

So, in theory, a Marauder or Mark VIII could be just a junkyard supercharger and computer reflash away from close to 400 horses, right? Or am I missing something?

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Lincoln Freak posted:

All of my panthers came equipped with full size spares except for my 91 Towncar. The SECOND that I discovered the doughnut in the trunk, I took the extra full size spare from my Grand Marquis and tossed it in the trunk.

Doughnuts are for dunking, not for driving, IMHO. :cop:

I have a cop car. It came with a full-sized spare, but I wanted the trunk space. I use the donut until I get home, and swap on the full-size there.
If I were traveling with it, I'd probably put the full-sized spare in the trunk for the duration.
I really like the aluminum Town Car spare I found. Much lighter.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

FYI, assuming they did the same on the Panthers as the Mustangs, there should be a physical metal tag on one of the diff cover bolts calling out that it's an LSD and needs friction modifier on fluid changes.

It's on the door tag. It's a code, but it's there.
(if you still have the original rearend, of course.)

I need to have mine rebuilt. I somehow hosed it up changing out the pinion seal, and have a whine now. I'll probably find a junkyard rear with the same gear ratio to swap in while the shop rebuilds it, or just swap permanently if I actually fin another LSD. Or have the junkyard one rebuilt, I guess. I missed on on FB Marketplace, which annoys me. Guy did the F-100 pickup Panther chassis swap, but wanted wider tires on the rear, so had a narrower rear built, and was selling the original cop car rear...

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Lincoln Freak posted:

I do have a quick question for anyone overly familiar with the DOHC mod motor in the Marauder:

I'm assuming that the 32 valve DOHC motor in the Marauder is the same as the Lincoln Mark VIII and the Mustang Mach I. I'm also assuming that the motor in the 1999-2004 Mustang Cobra is also the same, but with a supercharger bolted on.

So, in theory, a Marauder or Mark VIII could be just a junkyard supercharger and computer reflash away from close to 400 horses, right? Or am I missing something?
The DOHC 4.6 had a bunch of different variations over the years, they're not all equal. The '90s models use a block cast by Teksid in Italy, Ford then changed to an in-house block produced in Windsor in '01. The supercharged Cobra used an entirely different iron block. Somewhere in there the heads also changed for improved intake flow. There's probably still something to your idea, but it might not be as straightforward as bolting on a blower and flashing the PCM.

Lincoln Freak
Sep 11, 2001
The Surgeon General never said anything about smoking the competition!

wolrah posted:

The DOHC 4.6 had a bunch of different variations over the years, they're not all equal. The '90s models use a block cast by Teksid in Italy, Ford then changed to an in-house block produced in Windsor in '01. The supercharged Cobra used an entirely different iron block. Somewhere in there the heads also changed for improved intake flow. There's probably still something to your idea, but it might not be as straightforward as bolting on a blower and flashing the PCM.

Ah. That makes sense. I don't see very many blown Mark VIII's or Marauders, and if it was as simple as what I originally thought, there would probably be a lot more.

Thanks, Wolrah. :)

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
FWIW that post is the extent of my DOHC knowledge so by no means should you take it as a "no this is a bad idea" just be aware that there are substantially different variants of this motor and the Terminator Cobras' version is the most different. In the end it's still a Ford V8 that shipped for many years so there are definitely ways to turn it up.

A bit of googling found a Motor Trend article about the DOHC 4.6 quoting an engine builder as saying that the Teksid blocks are good for 1500 horsepower. Obviously that doesn't say anything about the heads, pistons, rods, crank, etc. but it's something.

Lincoln Freak
Sep 11, 2001
The Surgeon General never said anything about smoking the competition!

wolrah posted:

FWIW that post is the extent of my DOHC knowledge so by no means should you take it as a "no this is a bad idea" just be aware that there are substantially different variants of this motor and the Terminator Cobras' version is the most different. In the end it's still a Ford V8 that shipped for many years so there are definitely ways to turn it up.

A bit of googling found a Motor Trend article about the DOHC 4.6 quoting an engine builder as saying that the Teksid blocks are good for 1500 horsepower. Obviously that doesn't say anything about the heads, pistons, rods, crank, etc. but it's something.

Sure, no problem. I was just curious if it really was just as easy as finding a wrecked early aughts Cobra, and doing a supercharger transplant. I'm sure that companies like Magnussen and ProCharger already make packages for the Mark VIII and Marauder.

While I would LOVE to get my hands on a clean 97 or 98 Mark, or a Marauder, I'm actually considering finding a clean 03-05 Towncar hearse and supercharging that to scare the general populance. :dance:

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Lincoln Freak posted:

While I would LOVE to get my hands on a clean 97 or 98 Mark, or a Marauder, I'm actually considering finding a clean 03-05 Towncar hearse and supercharging that to scare the general populance. :dance:
I like the way you think :getin:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I mean, a friend did this to his '10 Town Car:



So anything's possible. I THINK he's still running the stock long block, I'll have to ask him next time I see him.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Oh, they reversed the alternator. Interesting.
I could really use that...

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


I like this guy's Grand Marquis.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6K3YR6Ti0Q

The exhaust sounds great, but I'm :thumbsdown: on his lack of cats.

Too bad OBX has kinda disappeared.
Pretty much no one else makes headers specifically for the Panther besides, I believe Doug's, and those are expensive stainless headers.

edit:
Stainless Works, and $1700. gently caress. That.

edit again:
Kooks headers are $900.

Darchangel fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Sep 25, 2023

Waffle House
Oct 27, 2004

You follow the path
fitting into an infinite pattern.

Yours to manipulate, to destroy and rebuild.

Now, in the quantum moment
before the closure
when all become one.

One moment left.
One point of space and time.

I know who you are.

You are Destiny.


Are there many documented Panther 4.6 ===> 5.4 swaps from an early 2000s Lincoln Navigator/Aviator? Seems like a good engine to stick in there.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Waffle House posted:

Are there many documented Panther 4.6 ===> 5.4 swaps from an early 2000s Lincoln Navigator/Aviator? Seems like a good engine to stick in there.
It really isn't a great choice. A few have been done but there's a reason they're not common.

The 2V 5.4s are taller and wider for the longer stroke so you have all sorts of fitment issues, but they have the same heads as the 4.6 so they run out of airflow earlier in the rev range. They give you a bit more torque down low but nothing more at the top end.

The 4V engines have plenty of airflow but now those heads are substantially larger and still sitting on the taller/wider block so you have even more fitment issues.

AFAIK the 3V engines require a newer computer so you still have the same fitment issues as the 2V 5.4 but also now need to deal with that, at which point IMO you may as well just go Coyote.

The easiest option for more power is a blower, and if you really want to swap the engine a 4V 4.6 is obviously just a matter of getting the right Marauder parts.

Waffle House
Oct 27, 2004

You follow the path
fitting into an infinite pattern.

Yours to manipulate, to destroy and rebuild.

Now, in the quantum moment
before the closure
when all become one.

One moment left.
One point of space and time.

I know who you are.

You are Destiny.


wolrah posted:

It really isn't a great choice. A few have been done but there's a reason they're not common.

The 2V 5.4s are taller and wider for the longer stroke so you have all sorts of fitment issues, but they have the same heads as the 4.6 so they run out of airflow earlier in the rev range. They give you a bit more torque down low but nothing more at the top end.

The 4V engines have plenty of airflow but now those heads are substantially larger and still sitting on the taller/wider block so you have even more fitment issues.

AFAIK the 3V engines require a newer computer so you still have the same fitment issues as the 2V 5.4 but also now need to deal with that, at which point IMO you may as well just go Coyote.

The easiest option for more power is a blower, and if you really want to swap the engine a 4V 4.6 is obviously just a matter of getting the right Marauder parts.

I have seen a few older videos about the swap; do you know offhand if it's more that they don't fit under the stock hood or that they're too wide for the engine bay? Panthers are the biggest passenger sedan with plentiful aftermarket that I could think of to chuck one in, because I'm not as much a fan of Mustangs, cool as they are.

I was aghast at how many of these motors were just sitting in trucks in junkyards. It's not EXACTLY a Terminator motor, but on a whim I emailed Ford's Performance Techline about them and their response (copy/pasted here) was:

quote:

2003 and newer 5.4 DOHC engines have a steel crank and common intake port heads and iron block.
Add H-beam rods and forged pistons and you will have a strong engine.
Don't forget to add a billet oil pump. With the added HP you will be changing the crank torsionals.
The combination is nothing really complex.
Add a moderate amount of boost and proper tuning and fuel delievery.
Intake manifold you are on your own.
FPP does not have parts for those due to how old they are.

Waffle House fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Sep 29, 2023

Lincoln Freak
Sep 11, 2001
The Surgeon General never said anything about smoking the competition!

Waffle House posted:

Are there many documented Panther 4.6 ===> 5.4 swaps from an early 2000s Lincoln Navigator/Aviator? Seems like a good engine to stick in there.

The Aviator, as I recall, is based on the Ford Explorer platform, and never got the 5.4. The Navigators and the Ford Expeditions could be had with the 4.6 or the 5.4.

I am in agreement with Wolrah: The DOHC in the Marauder, the Mach I or the Cobra would be a better swap candidate than the 5.4.

Just out of curiosity, someone posted a pic of a 2010 supercharged Towncar. Does anyone know what type of gains can be had by slapping a supercharger on a stock 4.6?

Waffle House
Oct 27, 2004

You follow the path
fitting into an infinite pattern.

Yours to manipulate, to destroy and rebuild.

Now, in the quantum moment
before the closure
when all become one.

One moment left.
One point of space and time.

I know who you are.

You are Destiny.


Just to clarify, the only motor I'm talking about are the 5.4 Intech 4V V8s from the Navigator. (Thank you, btw, I misspoke about the Aviators)

The 2V mods and 3V Tritons are neato but not really what I'm after.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Waffle House posted:

I have seen a few older videos about the swap; do you know offhand if it's more that they don't fit under the stock hood or that they're too wide for the engine bay? Panthers are the biggest passenger sedan with plentiful aftermarket that I could think of to chuck one in, because I'm not as much a fan of Mustangs, cool as they are.

I was aghast at how many of these motors were just sitting in trucks in junkyards. It's not EXACTLY a Terminator motor, but on a whim I emailed Ford's Performance Techline about them and their response (copy/pasted here) was:

Too tall, I think.
The only one I recall seeing had a hole in the hood for the throttle body, because of course the only intake is the tall truck intake.

Lincoln Freak posted:

The Aviator, as I recall, is based on the Ford Explorer platform, and never got the 5.4. The Navigators and the Ford Expeditions could be had with the 4.6 or the 5.4.

I am in agreement with Wolrah: The DOHC in the Marauder, the Mach I or the Cobra would be a better swap candidate than the 5.4.

Just out of curiosity, someone posted a pic of a 2010 supercharged Towncar. Does anyone know what type of gains can be had by slapping a supercharger on a stock 4.6?

Yes, Aviator is an Explorer. They did not get the 5.4, but they did get the 4V/DOHC, @ 300HP. All aluminum, too! Same as the Marauder and Mach 1.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Modular_engine#4.6

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Broke: Alternator died while driving. Took about 10 minutes to go from "hm, never saw a battery light appear on the dashboard before" to car dead on side of the road.

Woke: Takes like 20 minutes to install a new one in these cars. Awesome!

Lincoln Freak
Sep 11, 2001
The Surgeon General never said anything about smoking the competition!
Yup, alternators on Ford products are usually stupid easy to do. I would usually upgrade my alternator with a police package alternator from the same year, and other than an occasional pulley swap, it's usually pretty plug-n-play.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Lincoln Freak posted:

Yup, alternators on Ford products are usually stupid easy to do. I would usually upgrade my alternator with a police package alternator from the same year, and other than an occasional pulley swap, it's usually pretty plug-n-play.

Different bracket.
Also expensive, and the "over-running clutch" alternator pulley is *also* expensive (edit: for a pulley), and can fail. Mine did, and was the source of the bearing noise I couldn't track down for a while, and also lower-than-normal alternator output, but I didn't really notice that until it was fixed and suddenly putting out more.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
We recently got some bitter cold and snow in the northeast, it's all good now and the car was a trooper but the first bad day when I did start the car up I didn't have any window function anywhere in the car. None of the doors will work any of the windows, and the drivers door switch panel doesn't light up anymore. Everything else works. There is a relay the seems to be just for the windows?

2005-2011: Circuit breaker: Power windows relay feed (RUN/ACC)

Should I try anything else?

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Replacing that relay didn't work. :<

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Everything is fed off of the driver's master switch, I believe (so you can lock out the PW from there.)
I'm at work, so don't have the wiring diagram handy (I've never found a digital copy, so my [2005] copy is an actual book,) but check fuses under the dash AND in the engine bay. I'm not certain, but there might be one out there.
What specific year is yours?

Lincoln Freak
Sep 11, 2001
The Surgeon General never said anything about smoking the competition!
I agree with Darchangel: If none of the windows are working, and the door mounted switchgear is not lit up, I'm thinking blown fuse.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I have an 07, I've mostly been using this - https://fuse-box.info/mercury/mercury-grand-marquis-2003-2011-fuses-and-relay

I can go check this fuse I guess -
9 2007-2011: Ignition (ON/ACC) - Door lock switch illumination, Heated seat switch illumination, Moon roof (2007-2008), Overhead console, Radio, Antenna, Electrochromatic mirror, Window relay coil

My radio still works though so thats why I haven't looked at that one yet (and its cold). My next guess was a new driver's master switch so I guess I can stand to be cold for a little while while checking fuses before I try that.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org


No I didnt need that paint you can have it. :sigh:

Lincoln Freak
Sep 11, 2001
The Surgeon General never said anything about smoking the competition!

Cage posted:

I have an 07, I've mostly been using this - https://fuse-box.info/mercury/mercury-grand-marquis-2003-2011-fuses-and-relay

I can go check this fuse I guess -
9 2007-2011: Ignition (ON/ACC) - Door lock switch illumination, Heated seat switch illumination, Moon roof (2007-2008), Overhead console, Radio, Antenna, Electrochromatic mirror, Window relay coil

My radio still works though so thats why I haven't looked at that one yet (and its cold). My next guess was a new driver's master switch so I guess I can stand to be cold for a little while while checking fuses before I try that.

Quick question: You mentioned that the master power window switch was dead, and none of the windows do anything. If you use the switches on the other three doors, do THEY work?

If the other three windows work when you use the individual door switches, then it's probably the master switch that took a dump. Have you noticed any issues with the windows before they quit?

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
None of my windows are working, none of the door window switches light up. Everything was hunky dory before the snow, all the windows stopped working at once. Tomorrow Ill just go pull a bunch of fuses I guess!

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I checked all the fuses and nothing was blown :mad:

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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Cage posted:



No I didnt need that paint you can have it. :sigh:

That's nothing.
Mine's not the worst, but I've got leprous spots all over the roof, a few on the trunk and also hood and front fenders. Good job, Ford.


Cage posted:

I checked all the fuses and nothing was blown :mad:

Yeah, check power at the driver's switch, I guess.

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