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Pershing
Feb 21, 2010

John "Black Jack" Pershing
Hard Fucking Core

I really miss my Marquis. If I wanted to hunt for a Panther in good condition where should I look (other than CarMax)?

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Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I found mine on craigslist about 25 minutes after it was posted. Gotta be constantly checking and ready to buy because the deals go fast. I would check facebook too theres plenty on there.

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this

Cage posted:

I found mine on craigslist about 25 minutes after it was posted. Gotta be constantly checking and ready to buy because the deals go fast. I would check facebook too theres plenty on there.

Yeah, I think at this point with how old they are, craigslist and little used dealerships are your best bet. Autotempest does a good job of searching multiple areas at once.

casque
Mar 17, 2009

As Nero Danced posted:

I finally got around to wiring up my fog lights, this was taken at dusk so my camera's light levels are all wonky but they look great in person.



That looks pretty mean! Aren't fog lights meant to be closer to the ground?

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this

casque posted:

That looks pretty mean! Aren't fog lights meant to be closer to the ground?

Probably, they're "offroad only" :ssh:

Actually my state doesn't really have laws about additional lights/spot lights, as long as you don't have more than two and they aren't blue or red, so I'm in the clear. Then again my brother has four on a lightbar on his truck, and no one's given him trouble about them.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
My ac accumulator is borked. Replacement seems pretty easy, anyone ever do it before? One electrical plug, three bolts, two quick disconnects. Add 3oz of refridgerent oil to the new accumulator. Replace o-rings, lube, put back together? Done.

Factor in time spent swearing at the quick disconnects.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


You seem to have forgotten vacuuming out the old refrigerant, and pulling a vacuum once back together to confirm that the system is sealed before adding back the proper amount of refrigerant.
But yeah, that's the basics. Factory Service Manual should have the approximate amount of oil the add based on component replacement, which I assume is where you got he 3 oz. number.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Well the video I watched didn't mention any of that. :saddowns: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAr7wErHeQo

e: I can just swap the part out and have a shop do the rest still? Itll save me a few bucks at least

Cage fucked around with this message at 19:32 on May 13, 2022

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Yeeeeeeaaaaaaah, he totally skipped that part.
Well, if the refrigerant hasn't already been removed, you're going to get a face-full when you break a line loose, not to mention committing a federal crime. And possibly frostbite. That poo poo is under pressure typically. If it's not, you might want to investigate why it's not before throwing parts at it. The drier/accumulator is not typically a failure point, but is usually replaced when the system is opened as a preventative measure due to absorbed moisture.
Mechanically, yeah, you can swap the parts and then have a shop vacuum and fill, though you'll want to do that ASAP because any time you open the system you let air with moisture in - which the drier will start to absorb. It's just a can full of desiccant to absorb moisture and hold any extra oil.

edit: in his case, he thought, and was apparently correct, that the refrigerant had leaked out due to rust holing the accumulator. One presumes he had checked pressures beforehand. If you don't have gauges and a vacuum pump, I'd just let a shop handle the whole thing, personally.

Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:40 on May 13, 2022

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
you had UV dye in there before, right? so you should be able to find the leak, and double check the shop's diagnosis

i would probably be tempted to poke a schrader valve momentarily to see if it's pressurized, but yeah if you let any refrigerant out to the atmosphere that's illegal. so uh try not to do that

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Ill just let a shop handle it. I tried to fill it myself, but it wouldn't take any refrigerant so I just figured it was so empty that the compressor wouldn't kick on. I brought it to a shop who filled it w dye and checked for leaks for a few hours but didn't find anything. I took the car home and Im not sure how long it took cuz the weather was cool but within a couple days it all leaked. I took it back to the shop and it only took him a few minutes to come back to tell me it was the accumulator. I paid $150 the first time and he estimated another $200 or so to finish up so after seeing an accumulator was only $40 I looked up just enough info to think I could do it. Oh well.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


AC work isn't terribly difficult, but it requires some mildly expensive tools, some knowledge, and realistically a shop with the *really* expensive tools can do it faster and better.
I lucked into an lab-quality vacuum pump a long time ago, so I've got the most expensive part handled. It's way overkill for AC work. :D But shops have automated machines that can recover the refrigerant, vacuum the system down, hold and test for leaks, the refill with the correct amount of refrigerant all in one shot. Pretty dang cool (pun 100% intended.)
Again, the mechanical work is easy. It's just nuts, bolts, fittings and seals. It's handling the refrigerant and oils and stuff where it can get complicated.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Slippin rippin dang fang rotten zarg barg a ding dong





Not a big deal but dang both of them popping up in one day. It begins.

Had a shop do my accumulator, very frosty now. 70 degrees feels colder than 68 in my gfs ecosport. You really feel that power loss on the highway though. Gotta get them duals soon.

briefcasefullof
Sep 25, 2004
[This Space for Rent]
Copying my chat thread post:

I just picked up a 2003 Crown Victoria. It was my grandmother's and my parents have had it for the past decade or so. Now it's finally mine to take proper care of. 138.5k miles. Brand new tires.

Not sure if I'll do my own project car sort of thread or what. It does have what I'm hoping is a short laundry list of issues to fix. First is an oil change, fuel filter change, and new plugs. Suspension will come later this summer, and there's some wonky HVAC stuff to sort out.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Protip on the fuel filter - start the car, then use the handle of a screwdriver to whack the inertia switch in the trunk. Should pop it, engine will stall immediately or idle for a bit (if it keeps idling a bit, that filter is super clogged).Try to restart a few times to get rid of as much pressure as you can.

It's still gonna try to give you a face full of fuel, but it won't be nearly as bad. Pop the outlet side first. And drop the $10 on a metal quick release tool instead of the plastic ones.

briefcasefullof
Sep 25, 2004
[This Space for Rent]

STR posted:

Protip on the fuel filter - start the car, then use the handle of a screwdriver to whack the inertia switch in the trunk. Should pop it, engine will stall immediately or idle for a bit (if it keeps idling a bit, that filter is super clogged).Try to restart a few times to get rid of as much pressure as you can.

It's still gonna try to give you a face full of fuel, but it won't be nearly as bad. Pop the outlet side first. And drop the $10 on a metal quick release tool instead of the plastic ones.

Will do!

Edit: Step 1: Clean and polish headlights - done! I'd share a picture but imgur is hot garbage.

briefcasefullof fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Jun 6, 2022

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

If those are the factory headlights, keep them! Aftermarket replacements (OEM style and others) are dirt cheap, but don't light up the road for poo poo.

briefcasefullof
Sep 25, 2004
[This Space for Rent]
Yep, they are factory. I need to adjust them and maybe replace one bulb.

Hey, imgur isn't being hot garbage!

briefcasefullof
Sep 25, 2004
[This Space for Rent]
Manual calls for AWSF-32P plugs. I'm guessing that's a single platinum plug, so I should be good to replace it with some Autolite AP104s, right?

E: Or for a dollar more Motocraft AGSF32PM?

E: I went with the AP104s because they had a full set in stock. Also forgot to order a fuel filter. It'll have to wait until I get paid.

briefcasefullof fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Jun 6, 2022

briefcasefullof
Sep 25, 2004
[This Space for Rent]
Air went out, so I replaced the blower motor resistor. Now it's fixed! :toot: Spark plugs are on hold. I've got them, but it's too hot to fool with them. I was able to do the blower motor, because I took a lot of breaks. However, it runs now and I'm not in that big of a hurry to get out there and fight ignition coils and such to replace the spark plugs.

Now I need help with vacuum leaks. The air will change to defrost when I accelerate, which leads me to think that it's a vacuum leak. Problem is, I don't know exactly how to go and check for a vacuum leak. know that if were checking the engine, I could spray some starting fluid or carb cleaner and listen for the engine to rev up. With air conditioning, I don't know what to do, or where to begin looking.

E: a common solution is to replace o-rings on the EATC. I'm going to try that first.

E2: Disassembled the EATC, put in new o-rings, and now the air works like it should. O'Reilly's has them listed as Nat 007. McMaster Carr part numbers and instructions are here:
https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2438760&page=all

briefcasefullof fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jun 16, 2022

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Omg.

Some town cars had storage in the doors??



Thats very cool, I could use something like that. I hate the lack of storage space in my mgm. I'm gonna hit up a junkyard this weekend to look for the town car/continental style center storage arm rests.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Some of them had bucket front seats and a center console/jump seat in the front.
Oh, and the rear seat base scoots back and forth a few inches to recline the back - goes with that 6" extra legroom in the TC over the standard CV/GM, though there was a "long" taxi version of the CV that also had that extra 6".

edit:

Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jun 17, 2022

As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this
Gonna add that trying to swap seats between cars might be more trouble than it's worth, apparently every couple years they changed the wiring harness so trying to swap seats between years and even models can be a pain getting the car's computer to be happy with the swap. I have seats from an 04 marauder in my 03 grand marquis (I expected this the be the simplest swap) and I had to get the seat plug re-pinned so it would fix an airbag light. The other plan was to get a jump seat from a town car and matching buckets, but I couldn't find one and I got a good deal on my marauder interior. The storage armrests would be the better solution, especially the door card ones- those look awesome, I need to add that to my next pick-a-part list.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I noticed my interior lights stopped working, so I checked the fuse and it was blown. I was dumb and switched another working fuse in there and it blew instantly (no more adjustable pedals oops). Googling seems to suggest that a bare wire hitting metal in the visor is a pretty common problem on these cars.

edit: back 2 dad mode

Cage fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Jul 21, 2022

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Hope ya'll spending your summer getting some good cruises in.

I just bought a thing.



:getin:

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Cage posted:

Hope ya'll spending your summer getting some good cruises in.

I just bought a thing.



:getin:

Mine came with one, and 3.55 gears :smug:






…of course I hosed up the gear mesh somehow replacing the pinion seal and now it whines.
:negative:

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I'm gonna keep the gears, I dont mind the highway ratio.

New diff installed but no burnouts yet, in the process of removing the rotor and putting it back on its now catching the brakes slightly and rubbing so I'm gonna throw new rotors on tomorrow. The guy also nicked my abs sensor so I gotta replace that too. Not mad cuz he still saved me a bunch of money.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
+1 for marty tune. STR is right it really wakes the car up. DBW response is much better and the shift points seem much more suited for getting that pig up to highway speed. Realllly looking forward to how this sounds/improves once I get the dual exhaust on.

New rotors fixed the rubbing noise!! Car is now smooth as butter with the FORD RACING® trak lok.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Whilst scouring the wrecking yard for some parts to fix my cousin's Explorer, I picked up a few bits for my Crown Vic. I ran across this CV, which I thought was somewhat unique. I'm an idiot and didn't get a n actual picture of the car, but it *looked* like a Crown Vic Sport - 17" 5-spoke aluminum wheels, chrome trim, civilian interior - but leather split bench, not buckets and console. What was really odd was that it was a 2011. A very late 2011, having been manufactured in 8/2011, one month before production stopped.
I was really hoping that it had a limited slip rearend, but alas, it did not. I had to determine that empirically, though, because the door tag didn't make any sense. Then again, it might be the resources I was using on the web.
Here's the tag:

(It's wrecked, in a wrecking yard - not concerned about doxxing.)

http://www.policecars.us/crownvicnewvin.html says "C8" is '98-'03 rear axle code, - 2.73 open, though some sources just say "'98-up".

Other resources say 2011 should just be:
X5 - 3.27 LSD
Z5 - 3.27 open
C6 - 3.55 LSD

Maybe these are Police Interceptor (P7B) only?

I *swear* that decoder page above has changed since I looked at it when decoding my car. For one thing, it doesn't list any of those three codes in the '04-up section, but instead has just single digit numbers.
It also doesn't have the "P7E" models designation from the VIN.

My notes say I have X5 in my car, which I have down as 3.55 LSD, but that doesn't agree with the sources I'm finding now. As above it would be 3.27 LSD.


I'm really confused, now.

edit: OK, it looks like C8 is used through out, and that first decoder is misleading. C8 = 2.73 open, no matter what year, basically, which jibes with what I found on the car. Looks like that decoder is only good up to 2003 for the VIN, and I think they reversed the listings for the year ranges on the axle codes.
I should have looked on the diff for the actual axle tag if it's still there (and given the condition, it probably was - it looked untouched.) That would be fairly definitive.

On the "P7E", this guys says it's a non-PI "civilian" fleet car, and fairly rare:
https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=4133508
The one in the post looks exactly like the one I found looked like before the accident.

Darchangel fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Oct 17, 2022

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Shoot, forgot the other part.
Along with a few small bits I needed, I found an aluminum compact spare in a Town Car, looks almost unused. Here compared with the steel one I was using:



It's been used at least once by the lug nut marks on the bolt holes, but it still has nubblies on the tread.

All cleaned up to go into the trunk:


I use the donut spare because my subwoofer box won't quite let the full-sized spare fit under the parcel shelf, and I don't want it taking up the entirety of the lower well. I just use the donut to get home, and then swap on the full-sized or have the regular tire replaced/repaired.
I even got the OEM carpet cover for it!

It weighs *so* much less than the steelie.

briefcasefullof
Sep 25, 2004
[This Space for Rent]
Any particular reason why my driver's side door won't lock? I can lock it by pushing the plastic top piece (can't remember what it is called) down to lock it. It unlocks fine with the switch and remote.

It only did this just now when I got home, so maybe it's a fluke. It's kind of like if the computer thinks the key is in the car, then it won't lock the door as a way to keep you from locking the keys in the car.

boxen
Feb 20, 2011
It's possible the solenoid is going.

I think that's what's happening to a couple of the doors on my Town Car, they won't always lock/unlock when I hit the button either on the fob or the door.

Generally not a problem unless I leave the vehicle and think I locked a door, and then come back and see that it didn't lock and just open the door. HONK HONK HONK HONK

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Took my seat out to prepare to replace abs sensor.



Old man before me loved the beach. When I first went to look at the car when you brought the hood up you could hear sand moving inside it.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




I was searching for my lost wallet in the PI this week and found a gift from the Cop Fairies.

A plastic baggie full of 12GA shotgun shells under my driver's seat. Been rolling this thing around for five years with that in there.

Pershing
Feb 21, 2010

John "Black Jack" Pershing
Hard Fucking Core

I need buying advice.

So there's this 99 Grand Marquis a friend of a friend has. 100k miles and the body and interior look great (other than cigarette smell). Current owner wants $750 for it.

Problem is the PO ignored the flashing check engine light. He ruined the cats (which have been removed) and melted some wiring in the process.

Am I a schmuck for taking a flier on this thing? A garage I trust says they can replace the cats for ~$800 all told. I will, of course, have to get a quote from an auto electric garage about wiring and ensuring whatever ruined the cats has been fixed.

My thinking is that even if I put around $2500 into the thing I'd have a used car for a lot less than I could find otherwise.

boxen
Feb 20, 2011
What killed the cats in the first place? Were they the cause of the flashing check engine light were they both symptoms of something else?

I guess if you've already figured $2500 might go into the thing that should cover a junkyard (hell, maybe reman) engine.

Ozone generators are supposedly good for removing the smoke smell, just don't be around it (ie, inhaling the ozone) while it's running.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

boxen posted:

What killed the cats in the first place? Were they the cause of the flashing check engine light were they both symptoms of something else?

Flashing CEL is almost always a misfire, so it was probably dumping a boatload of unburned fuel into the cats. That'll pollute them and clog them up in short order.

Misfire causes could be a whole spectrum of "Ford things." My money is on: bad coilpack.

boxen
Feb 20, 2011

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Flashing CEL is almost always a misfire, so it was probably dumping a boatload of unburned fuel into the cats. That'll pollute them and clog them up in short order.

I haven't had that issue in my TC but (points at thread title) could that be a cause?

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

boxen posted:

I haven't had that issue in my TC but (points at thread title) could that be a cause?

Ah, you got there before my edit did. Yeah, my guess would be coils. A secondary guess would be that the PO replaced the coils, thinking he was fixing it, but did a bad job. IIRC they have some stupid little rubber boot that slips off of the pack if you're not paying attention or are sundowning.

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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Piling on the "dead coils" bandwagon. I've even had one go bad in my '05 CVPI ("random misfire", so didn't set the cats on fire). Pull the ODB2 codes, and it should even tell you which cylinder was misfiring.

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