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I'm a little late to the party but I just bought my 2nd CVPI on the 4th. 2000, matte black paint (really just a lovely paint job), beige interior with the vinyl back seat, and a few problems to boot. 1) The steering wheel is out of alignment with the front wheels ever so slightly. Not horrible, but it'll have to be fixed in the future. 2) My Check Engine light was off until I replaced the broken fuel cap with a Murray Ultra replacement. Now the light stays on, and flashes at me once I top 70. Also related, I get some hesitating and shaking at times with very light acceleration between 30 and 42 MPH. If I accelerate like a grown man, I never feel it. I'm taking it in at the end of the week for an oil change and inspection, I'm gonna get the OBDII code(s) too, so I have a better clue of what's going on. Other than that, anyone have any ideas?
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Mar 12, 2013 20:18
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| # ¿ May 7, 2024 01:18 |
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:A flashing check engine light I was told only comes on during a catalyst damaging event, such as a severe misfire. Have you checked the plugs and coils at all? I was getting a very minor amount of stumbling in mine and you can see up a few posts what I pulled out. That's what I've read about the flashing light, although most of my info was from non-Ford sites. Splizwarf posted:Yeah, cat or trans damage. No, I just put a brand new fuel cap on. I had to remove the old one because the twisting cap had broken off from the other part and no gas could get in. I don't know much about Murray Ultra parts but it seems to be working. The car doesn't feel weird at all, besides that minor hesitation at a specific mph range. Drives great, no loss of pressure, still can accelerate wonderfully. Even when the light was flashing, there were no audible or noticeable sounds of misfiring in the engine. It was purring. Regardless, I'm not ignoring your advice, I just don't have the money for a new catalytic converter right now. It's gotta run for a couple of weeks doing city driving so I can make money to get it fixed. 
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Mar 12, 2013 22:14
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Yeah, drove it to and from work today, and only noticed a couple of misfires at that 30-40 mph range. The car seems to give me less and less trouble each time I drive it. I will definitely get the codes pulled on it ASAP, though. I knew I'd need to get it checked out right away. I'm hoping nothing serious happens, and I'm definitely not going to take it on the interstate until this all gets fixed.
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Mar 13, 2013 02:46
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Splizwarf posted:Is the CEL blinking when you drive currently? If so, please stop, you are ruining your future. No. The light only flashed when my speedometer hits 70. I did that on the freeway a few days ago, slowed down, and haven't gotten near 70 since. It doesn't flash at any other speeds and it hasn't flashed since then.
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Mar 13, 2013 04:20
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I bought mine for a hair under 2500. Well worth it so far, and the most I've ever paid for a car.
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Mar 14, 2013 04:58
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So I managed to get my car over to an Autozone for some license plate screws and a diagnostic check. Before I headed over though, my Check Engine light turned off and stayed off. Kinda strange. Anyways, I got the clerk to come out and do a reading, and sure enough I got a Cylinder 8 Misfire code that set the flashing CEL off weeks ago. At least now I can narrow my search for the issues... problems standing in the way are, I have absolutely no tools and no place in which to work on the car, as well as no spare cash to pay for labor. What's the bare minimum tool-wise that I'd need to get to the bottom of the misfire?
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Mar 18, 2013 03:57
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SouthLAnd posted:That car is badass. I'm kind of kicking myself in the rear end for getting a new 4 cylinder car and not a used CV. There's so many around here in the Detroit area. Where are you at in Metro D? I'm up in Madison Heights but I drive down around Detroit/Warren border while working at Jimmy Johns and into downtown Detroit for my job with the Tigers. If you can handle a wrench I'd buy you a six pack of your brew to give me some help with the barge.
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Mar 23, 2013 02:43
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Got my car fixed over the past couple days... The problem was definitely the coil pack, so that got replaced. I also bought a whole new set of boots, and spark plugs. Also, the shift lever was repositioned, and the car has been cured of the intermittent no-start that it developed the night before it went into the shop. Last time I'm using the dealership though... I paid 730 plus taxes for all the parts, a steering column rebuild, and the 2 days of labor. I found a new garage that my dad has a working relationship with, so they'll be getting my business from now on.
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Mar 31, 2013 03:38
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It honestly depends. On my old cabs, the owners would run the CVPIs for 200K in addition to the 100K that the cars had on them from previous duty, then rewind the odometers and typically run them for another 100K or until they could line up a replacement cab at an auction. At that point, the car would become a daily driver for until it died, so about 600-700K miles total in most cases. e: Had to get another part replaced last week. Starter died after I finished my delivery shift, so I had the car towed a mile up the road to a local garage and fixed. Here's hoping that I can make it at least a month before the next thing fails.
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May 2, 2013 18:53
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So, it looks like I'm going to finally get my first road trip in my CVPI. I was called up by the Dekalb Co. (GA) Prosecutor's Office and notified that when my case finally goes to trial, I'll be needed to testify. This gives me a few months to work and get some basic repairs done to the car before I subject it to 1500 miles or so. Gotta get new brakes, and I need an A/C recharge. Shouldn't be too bad as a cruising car, except that the cruise control/horn both don't work. Is that just something that needs to be reconnected?
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Jun 8, 2013 22:25
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Motronic posted:Definitely. Should be easy to trace out with a multimeter. Yeah. Both airbags have been deployed, so the air bag light stays on constantly.
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Jun 13, 2013 14:01
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I'm having transmission issues, I believe. When my engine heats up, my shifts make the car lurch a little bit and the car drops to a very low rev point. It doesn't stall but it doesn't accelerate as well either. Plus, the car gets close to overheating on a daily basis now. I have to run the A/C on scalding and drop the windows to keep the thermometer around normal levels. Fluid check is coming tomorrow, but other than that, any ideas?
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Jun 28, 2013 04:53
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So far, putting a metric poo poo-ton of coolant into the car has solved my cooling and transmission issues. No more rough shifting, no more overheating while idling.
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Jul 1, 2013 17:17
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:Any idea where it went? Surprisingly, no. I don't have any leaks that I can see, I've been checking the car for the last two days. No drips, no wet spots along the coolant lines, no holes in the radiator (which is still in decent shape). e: Anyone in the Detroit/Warren area in this thread? If they can help me figure out how to do basic repairs and get my stereo playing again, I'll buy 'em dinner and a 6-pack of their choice.
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Jul 2, 2013 18:55
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SouthLAnd posted:What's wrong with your radio? Factory unit? Is it powering on but just no audio? I've had the internal amplifiers of a few 90's Ford radios go bad to the point where they just emit static. I recently had a Kenwood unit installed. Worked fine but then one day it went into protect mode after a couple of speaker pops out of the driver's front door area. Apparently I have a short somewhere in the door but I have no tools or knowledge of how to access it myself. Plus the battery died on me today maybe due to the same short.
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Jul 5, 2013 21:37
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There was a bit of corrosion found on the cables. The car seems to be running well once again. Still need A/C, a brake job, and to get my audio back though.
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Jul 6, 2013 19:15
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Ugh. I got horrible news today. I went to the repair shop to get my A/C checked. Was told that the compressor is blown out. In order to fully replace it, they'd need to replace everything including the compressor, and it would cost me around $725-$750. Does this sound accurate to you guys? I really don't have the money to replace it, but this summer heat is killing me in a black car.
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Jul 18, 2013 04:04
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leica posted:You sure they said everything? Maybe the dryer also but I can't think of anything else that would have to be replaced. I'd post in the A/C thread, and also get a second opinion at an good A/C shop. Yeah, they said that they would just do the compressor but they can't warranty it without doing the other parts in the assembly as well. I'm really not financially in any condition to pay anything over a couple hundred dollars for ANY repairs right now. I found out my grandmother is dying and I'm going to have to save my money to go down to Georgia soon, so I'm gonna deal with ball sweat for the next few months.
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Jul 19, 2013 20:20
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Motronic posted:That doesn't sound like much of a diagnosis. I have a hard time believing you need "a new everything" because of a bad compressor, even if it did spew black death throughout the system. At the most you need 3 parts and various seals as well as a flush. If I could remember exactly what they told me I'd need, I'd say it here. I was hungry and my memory isn't the best when I'm hungry. They said the individual parts, but all I remember is that they said some sort of tube, something else, and the compressor.
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Jul 19, 2013 20:22
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Coasterphreak posted:This is car guy speak for "do it yourself, pay out the rear end, or drink more water" Well. Guess I'm screwed then. Like I said before, I've got no tools, little knowledge and little money with which to do a job like this. Thanks for letting me know, though, goons. Better the devil you know, right?
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Jul 20, 2013 07:31
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Took my car in for an oil change/winter maintenance job, and my mechanic told me the reason I'm losing coolant is because apparently I have a cracked intake manifold. Now, I thought the coolant was pooled around that particular injector simply because I splashed a bit pouring it in on a 5 degree day, but now that I think about it, it's entirely possible that it is cracked. Does the quoted total job for parts and labor of approx. 600 bucks seem reasonable to you guys?
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Jan 8, 2014 23:08
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leica posted:Unless I'm missing something, that seems a bit high just to replace the manifold, unless a new manifold costs 450 bucks or something. Would be an easy enough job to do yourself if you have some basic tools. I really don't. Everything I had before when I was driving cabs on a regular basis had to be left behind, and I have no place to work on the car even if I had the tools. I did check Rock Auto and a new intake manifold is 180, so I'm thinking I purchase the parts and find a pure labor mechanic. Hopefully only will cost me a few hundred instead of over 600.
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Jan 9, 2014 00:08
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| # ¿ May 7, 2024 01:18 |
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djhaloeight posted:The cracked manifolds were common before Ford switched to versions with the aluminum coolant crossover. Even then, they still sometimes cracked in other places. Grab the Ford racing manifold, it's identical to the oem version and cheaper. That one shows up as a product not found. If I can get money together, a decent shop manual and the necessary tools, I'd feel confident enough to try and do it myself. Well, that and some workspace. Anyways. I'm assuming this one is the one I'd be interested in, even for a 2000 P71? http://www.adtr.net/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_70&product_id=158 cbx fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Jan 9, 2014 |
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Jan 9, 2014 23:28
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