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Forscan
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Nov 16, 2018 20:37
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 22:53 |
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Well gently caress. Was sitting in a parking lot waiting to drive to my cousins, was parked for line a half hour. I looked up and suddenly my coolant temp was pegged and the warning light was on. Got out and the radiator fan want working, even with a/c on full blast. I panicked and VERY GENTLY drove it the mile to his place to get some airflow through. After I shut the car off, I turned the key right back on to pull Torque up and it was immediately down to mid gauge, app reported temp of 110C. Did I just gently caress my engine? Wtf.
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Nov 17, 2018 02:15
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Well drove it 30 minutes home, temp never got above 90 and I could hear the cooling fan easily when I parked, so...  I've got a hair trigger for "minor glitches"at this point.
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Nov 17, 2018 07:05
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Already had to replace the intake last April, snapped off the heater supply nipple while bypassing that. Supposedly the big issues were fixed by 07 but in any case I've got a Dorman on there now. Coolant didn't look low during the brief look when it was showing hot.
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Nov 17, 2018 08:32
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Update on the cooling situation: sat in a parking lot to try and replicate. Starting from warm-ish with the a/c on, temperature got up to 98C. At this point I got out, poked the fan, it spun up for a second then stopped, then right as the temp ticked over to 100 it kicked on full blast. Turned a/c off, after a bit the temp started climbing; turning the a/c on at this point did nothing, nor did prodding. Got on the road for airflow again, temp got up to almost 120 before falling, stayed a little above normal all the way to parking. At some point during the drive my cap vented. At this point I busted out the multimeter. Unplugged the fan, no continuity, but ~10V across the module terminals. Unplugged the module and probed the harness side, continuity to ground and ~12V on both the power and signal pins (this was all with key on, engine off). Plugged the module back in, probed the fan again and now there was continuity; plugged the fan back in, started the car and it was blowing full blast, a/c off. I'm pretty sure I was making contact with the fan terminals the first time; do these have some sort of thermal cutoff in them? Could I have had a loose connection and now it's reseated? Who knows! I'll keep an eye on it for now.
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Nov 18, 2018 02:51
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Alright it seems like the fan blows nice and strong when the car first turns on, then gradually gets weaker, then eventually stops blowing completely. In my experience digital modules do not fail this way, so I've gotta be looking at a fan that's somehow marginal and dies as it heats up, right? I've already replaced the module, no change in behavior. I loving hate shotgunning parts but my google fu is coming up weak, can't find a loving circuit diagram, or even "range of coolant temps where the fan should be on". The ECU is reporting temps just fine, but is there a chance the fan runs off a different sensor that could be hosed? Editing to update: Fender Anarchist posted:Edit: I loving GOT IT. Checked on the laptop to verify the signal was getting to the fan, went out and saw the fan was off, gave it a strong flick with my flashlight.... and it spun up. With a horrific grinding noise coming from the hub. It is dead quiet when it's cold and blowing full blast. Must be something rubbing/gripping when it gets hot, that's strong enough to fully stop it at low duty cycle, and stall it even at full power once it's stopped. gently caress that feels good to finally figure out. Guess I'm getting a new fan assembly. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Nov 20, 2018 |
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Nov 20, 2018 01:05
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MonkeyNutZ posted:Weird thought, is the HVAC control panel getting hot to the touch? I've noticed in the past it was slightly warm compared to the surrounding plastics, but not like weirdly hot. To be clear, though, this is the radiator fan, not the HVAC blower. Darchangel posted:Yeah, that sounded like bad bearings/gummed up lube to me. Should be easy to find a good replacement in the wrecking yard. They actually don’t fail often, just test before you leave the yard. Already ordered a replacement off Amazon for $120. The only LKQ that shows one in stock was over on like the gulf coast. Frankly the time saved with Amazon vs junkyard hopping while actively nursing a car to keep it from overheating is worth the extra $40 vs junkyard price.
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Nov 21, 2018 05:12
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Same, nothing better than a plain stamped piece of metal. Should probably make more spares for mine but  New fan is in, temp cycling seems rock stead with no loss of performance after a decent drive cycle around the neighborhood. Gonna buckle down and do the heater core over this weekend (ughhhh), tear into the transmission whenever my parts arrive, because of course they shipped snail mail for the small stuff.
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Nov 23, 2018 23:09
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Fender Anarchist posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikk56cIHL_g So, update on this whole saga: gently caress this wiring clip, gonna need a new one cause the retainer tabs crumbled.  ...Juuust as soon as I figure out what's actually wrong with my car, because, shocker of shockers, it's not the overdrive clip.  What now? Wait for it to quit dripping in my face and try inspecting the band through a peep hole? Throw solenoids at it blindly? I just got the valve body down so I'm taking break, maybe I'll have a double twist and there'll be some other random junk blocking a hydraulic passage when I open that up.
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Dec 18, 2018 21:42
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I did pull the separator plate off the valve body and no visible debris anywhere, aside from some sludge coating a few of the deeper passages (it was similar to the stuff coating the magnet in the drain pan, had about the consistency of thermal paste). Even before I sprayed it down, I moved the valves I could with the piece of mechanic's wire i had and they all felt nice and smooth; i don't have picks or a skinny screwdiver strong enough to move the beefier ones he mentions in the video. Everything looks good though. The upper plate was still dripping when I was last under the car, as a last-ditch I'll take a look tomorrow and see if maybe the band slipped off the piston, or maybe if I can see any discoloration on it. I'll bust out my small jack and check the actual movement of the servo, watch through the inspection hole to see if it closes the band, maybe pull the clip out and visually inspect it. Other than that I have no idea where to go from here.
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Dec 19, 2018 01:11
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That seems bad enough it might be worth getting some clear coat, spraying a thick layer on to fill the scratches, and sanding/polishing til it's clear again. Probably cheaper than finding just the window by itself, anyway.
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Mar 14, 2019 03:25
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Haven't had time to work on it and my workspace is occupied as a storage unit now, so...  I keep procrastinating on calling a trans shop (mostly because I'm getting used to driving without OD lol), need to hit Yelp or wherever and find a good place close by.Also for like a week I was having an intermittent misfire while warming up (with a p0351 code, cyl 1 ignition ckt) but I went and jiggled the coil and it seems to have cleared up, CEL even went off all on its own. Fuckin' connectors.
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Mar 14, 2019 06:40
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TC typically cuts power and or uses ABS to reduce wheel slip under acceleration. An LSD is gonna prevent the spin from happening in the first place, and iirc they're all purely mechanical; it shouldn't interfere with the former at all, just reduce the amount of situations where TC is even needed.
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Jun 5, 2019 02:55
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I gotta get my fuckin' overdrive fixed, i'm tired of getting 13 mpg
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Jul 7, 2019 03:17
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At this point I've got a bunch of poo poo going on in my life, to the point that it's probably more cost effective to get it fixed by a shop. I'll get an estimate before committing, but odds are decent that I can get an otherwise-perfect transmission's overdrive back up for less than $1500, right? Like, it worked perfectly, then suddenly failed while I had the ABS module pulled out, and hasn't worked since; that's gotta be some kind of electronic fault it seems like.
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Jul 9, 2019 03:31
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 22:53 |
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Yeah that sure looks like when mine popped. Unfortunately, it's plastic that's been dissolved and crumbled by ancient coolant, so you'll probably need a new intake mani at some point like I did. You've got the little pipe stub to at least clamp onto for now, but with how orange and cracked that looks it's only a matter of time before it just turns to dust and this happens again.
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Oct 5, 2019 07:31
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