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I fully intend to sell my e30 in the next year or so and get a 2003+ P71 because of those type of posts. I already have a small, impractical car (Fiero), and it'd be nice to have a huge RWD couch with four doors and a v8.
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Nov 13, 2015 03:07
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Ouch, so the inner frame of the door itself is different on a P71? That seems real weird, they use them for taxi duty often as well, don't they?
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Oct 30, 2017 20:32
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I'm guessing no junkyard near you to pull things from, either. There's a 2010 Crown Vic in the yard about 20 minutes from my house, I can try to get there this weekend and check to see if it has that plate if you like. Looks a little weird, the VIN listed isn't a fleet VIN, but it's painted black and white like a cop car. Either the VIN was entered wrong, the picture is wrong, or some dumbshit painted it to look like a cop car.
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Nov 1, 2017 18:26
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Magnus Praeda posted:Fly-by-night "security" company? Yeah, could be. There aren't any lights that I see from the picture, and I can't tell anything about the interior other than it has grey front buckets. The wheels aren't on it, but it does have the black grille.
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Nov 1, 2017 18:40
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:If you do, those three rivets on each plate will need to be drilled/ground out. I think they're the Ford peel out ones, so maybe a screwdriver will work, too. I'll pay ya to ship them over if you do, but if you don't, that's okay too. Got'em. They were actually just attached with an Allen head screw and nut. You don't need the rods, right?
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Nov 4, 2017 21:52
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Cool beans! PayPal or gwallet? You don't seem to have PMs, so my email is REDACTED. I don't need the rods.  You have an email. boxen fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Nov 6, 2017 |
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Nov 4, 2017 22:56
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boxen posted:
Package is inbound.
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Nov 6, 2017 22:59
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Panther thread on page 3? This won't do! To Craigslist! I'd been thinking about getting a new vehicle, and my Fiero left me stranded three times in a month (goddamned ignition module), so I started browsing Craigslist. 2004 Lincoln Town Car 'Ultimate', 50k miles, 1 owner, $7500. The Carfax listed one accident in 2005, but no airbag deployment or other damage listed, so it can't have been too serious. There's a 6-8" scrape at the bottom of the rocker panel under the passenger door on the passenger side, and a handful of small paint chips (mostly at the edge of the driver's door and around the grill) and two rock chips in the windshield, but otherwise it's in pretty good shape. No dents or dings, nothing seems to leak. No plans to do anything to it right now, this is supposed to be a reliable daily. I'll probably end up replacing the ancient factory touchscreen/nav setup (complete with dvd reader in the trunk) with something more modern, haven't decided what. For now, it's just fun to cruise around in a massive boat.
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Apr 18, 2018 04:11
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And on the second day of ownership, I discovered that the gas gauge doesn't work. Am I correct in assuming that I need to drop the tank to replace the sending unit?
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Apr 19, 2018 06:58
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Eric the Car Guy has a video about this! Awesome, thanks! I watched the video and was kind of wondering why he didn't move the jack stands out from under the axle and let the axle droop for more clearance. I'll have to check a wiring diagram, I wonder if there's a spot where I can disconnect the sending unit and put a potentiometer in, to verify the problem isn't with the gauge/wiring. I found a Haynes manual for "1970-2010 Lincoln Rear-Wheel Drive Models", is there any manuals that are more specific, like say 2003-2011 Panther cars? Do I just need to track down a factory service manual?
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Apr 19, 2018 17:22
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Well, I found my first real "Oh, poo poo" issue with my new car... I don't know how I didn't notice it before. Went to check the oil on a whim, and discovered the oil dipstick sticks out about 5 inches from its tube. Won't push in further (hard stop) and there's not a trace of oil on the stick. Were there different designs from time to time? I'm hoping that its just the wrong dipstick and not something else. The part number on the dipstick is 3W7E-6750-ED, and RockAuto lists 3W7Z6750EA as the correct part. My car's a 2004, and the dipstick it has is 21" long (just the metal part), and has a 45 degree twist right at the end. Can anyone else compare this to theirs? I'll order a replacement from rockauto in the meantime, and I'm hoping that fixes it.
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May 3, 2018 02:14
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Darchangel posted:I do have to give it a little twist and wiggle part way down to get it in (what part of that sentence *can't * be made innuendo...) Got the new dipstick in, it's exactly the same as the old one and won't go in. It's not like i'm hitting some resistance, it's like it hits a hard stop. I tried flipping it over a few times, no luck. Might have to put it up on jackstands this weekend to see if there's a kink in the tube or something.
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May 4, 2018 17:45
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Crawled under the Lincoln last weekend, didn't notice anything strange anywhere that I could see. I was able to get the dipstick fully inserted by putting my had around the dipstick to prevent it from bending and just shoving it in (  ), and that seemed to work fine, no weird noises afterward and the oil looks to be both at the correct level and clean. The dipstick tube had a sticker still on it near where it entered the block, so maybe it was replaced at some point? Crawling under it was kind of neat, low miles so everything looked more or less new, rather than the banged up and rusted poo poo I'm used to. Do the 2004 cars not have a steering wheel lock when the key isn't inserted? I was able to freely spin the wheel without the key in the ignition, this would be the only car I've ever driven where the steering wheel lock wasn't a thing. There's also some sort of clunk coming from the front suspension when I'm backing up and brake, and only during the initial press of the pedal unless I build speed a little and hit it again (at like 1mph, I'm not doing J-turns) (yet). Nothing in the wheel bearings, tie rods, control arms, or brakes looked loose, but I didn't take anything apart to check thoroughly. Is that a normal thing? I think it might just be the pads moving in the calipers a bit, but I'm not sure.
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May 17, 2018 01:00
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I've used piano wire/bailing wire to do the same thing. Much more of a pain in the rear end because of the lack of insulation and trying to hold the wires away from everything else, but it can be done. I wonder if anyone makes some sort of adapter for 12V power tool batteries that just has a couple of screw terminals on top...hmm.
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Sep 6, 2018 19:42
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Darchangel posted:This is a job for... 3D printing! *Eyes "not for personal use" 3D printer at work speculatively*
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Sep 6, 2018 21:41
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J Corp posted:That's kinda what I was thinking, though I'm having a little bit of trouble figuring out whether I can just replace the stock spider gears with 31's in the current carrier or if I would need a new carrier as well. Anybody know the answer to this? I'm also assuming like you said that without drastically increasing power (like with a supercharger), I'd probably be fine running stock axles. It's really a cost/benefit thing. If it's only slightly more to upgrade I don't see why not, but if it's going to be an extra $500+ dollars and it won't make a difference, why bother? No, you see, if you get the axles, then you can say "well, I beefed up everything else, so now I may as well install a supercharger to make that work worthwhile."
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Oct 25, 2018 22:50
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So, this is just kind of a brainstorming what could be wrong with my car. The story is that my 2004 Town car acts like it's only getting a little over 100 miles to a tank of gas, but it's otherwise running perfectly fine. The gas gauge doesn't work, which isn't helping diagnosis. It'll go fine until a bit over 100 miles on what should be a full tank, then quit like it's out of gas (quit suddenly while driving, a restart will let it run for a few seconds before it quits and wont' start again, cranks fine). Adding a couple of gallons from a can will allow the car to be driven just fine, but then a fill at a gas station will only put in something like 6 or 8 gallons (in what should be a ~20 gallon tank). It's done this on 2 consecutive tanks, and I just got home after having to put some gas in from a can. It's only done the "only takes 6-8 gallons from a station" thing once. Before these shenanigans started (~a month and one "fill" ago), I had filled it with ~18 gallons or more, probably a couple of dozen times over the last year. I know it sat for awhile (possibly a couple of years) at some point shortly before I bought it, so my thought is that it sat with gas in it, corroded the tank, and the strainer in the tank is full of crud. Fully filling the tank lifts up the crud layer to the point where the pickup gets fuel again. A coating of crud on the tank sender would also explain my fuel gauge issues (always seems to read half a tank lower than it should be). (side note: It'll drive for > a hundred miles on what should be fumes, going by the gauge, so I think the gauge is wrong. The digital range estimate thing agrees with the tank, and not real life as well). I've filled it with the normal amount of gas before, so it isn't just a massive pile of poo poo taking up space in my tank, and since the gas door locks I don't think anyone is siphoning it. I also haven't noticed any gas smell or colorful puddles under my car anywhere. I don't have time or space to drop the tank right now myself, and made an appointment at a dealership (ugh) to have them look at it Friday morning. I'm just trying to guess what the damage might be. I'm thinking probably not fuel filter (runs fine after adding gas), possibly fuel pump (but full vs half a tank of gas shouldn't effect that), possibly tank corrosion, and likely some sort of crud buildup on the pump/sender/pickup assembly. Again, I already made a dealership appointment, just trying to diagnose it myself before they take a look.
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Jan 10, 2019 07:48
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If I put a junkyard LSD in my 2004 Town Car, is it going to gently caress up the traction control?
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Jun 4, 2019 22:19
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Big K of Justice posted:Well I'm stumped. So is the shop apparently. Shot in the dark, but I'd pull a plug and make sure it's actually sparking when it's cranking over. When you're doing this, make sure you're actually grounding the threads on the plug, I've hosed that up before. Also, uh, don't hold the plug in your fist when you do it either. It's a lot of volts and it tingles.
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Sep 10, 2019 06:11
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You there, thread! Stay out of the archives! So, I noticed the front driver's tire on my 2004 Town Car was wearing weirdly... much more wear on the inside edge than the outside. If it was just me driving like an rear end in a top hat, I'd expect to see that wear on the outside edge. Got new tires put on today, and asked for an alignment as well. The shop called back when the tires were done, and said they couldn't adjust the front back into alignment, the relevant bits were adjusted as far as they would go. Looking at the alignment sheet they gave me, here's what's out of spec: Driver's Front Camber: -2.0 degrees (range is .4 to -1.2 degrees) Passenger's Front Camber: -1.7 degrees ( .4 to -1.2 degrees) Passenger's Front Caster: 5.3 Degrees (5.5 to 7.0 degrees) Nothing is hugely off, and the car drove fine for the 2-3 years I've owned it. The odd wear was on the front driver's tire, but it's the passenger that's farther out. Near as I can figure, this was someone's grandpa's car, and after he was gone the car sat for a bit. I'm wondering if it got bounced off of some curbs before that happened. It seems like I could throw a grand at this and get new uprights, and upper and lower control arms... but how likely is it that there's something in the frame that's bent, and new parts wouldn't necessarily help? I always thought panthers were pretty sturdy, so I'm inclined to believe that's not likely, but.... I will probably just end up dealing with it and being more diligent about my tire rotations. I probably could have gotten several thousand more miles out of the last set had I rotated them sooner, but I think they were getting up in age anyway.
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Jul 28, 2021 22:10
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It's possible the solenoid is going. I think that's what's happening to a couple of the doors on my Town Car, they won't always lock/unlock when I hit the button either on the fob or the door. Generally not a problem unless I leave the vehicle and think I locked a door, and then come back and see that it didn't lock and just open the door. HONK HONK HONK HONK
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Oct 19, 2022 18:08
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What killed the cats in the first place? Were they the cause of the flashing check engine light were they both symptoms of something else? I guess if you've already figured $2500 might go into the thing that should cover a junkyard (hell, maybe reman) engine. Ozone generators are supposedly good for removing the smoke smell, just don't be around it (ie, inhaling the ozone) while it's running.
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Oct 25, 2022 23:44
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Flashing CEL is almost always a misfire, so it was probably dumping a boatload of unburned fuel into the cats. That'll pollute them and clog them up in short order. I haven't had that issue in my TC but (points at thread title) could that be a cause?
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Oct 25, 2022 23:52
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| # ¿ May 10, 2024 04:03 |
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The paint on my 2004 Lincoln looked pretty good when I bought it (probably because it lived in someone's grandpa's garage), but after me parking it outside for three years the clearcoat started peeling off almost in sheets. The paint itself started wearing through soon after, I'm just waiting for the rust spots to show up.
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Dec 6, 2022 01:56
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