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Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

CharlieWhiskey posted:

Crossposting someone's question from the question thread
Ha, thats funny I just saw this thread and was about to post. Was super confused about seeing the yellow highlight for a second. Thanks, friend!

If you have to take everything off like that anyway, I wonder if it would be worth it to replace the blend door actuator, and then still install the cable for when it will probably fail again.

Cage fucked around with this message at 19:01 on May 24, 2016

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Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Anyone have any good diagrams of disassembling the dashboard? My dad got a real good start taking things off, but we're not sure now where the rest of the bolts are to peel the dashboard back. Should I look at picking up a chilton/haynes manual?

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Well we got through it.

Next project I think we have to replace his entire windshield washer reservoir because the sensor stopped working and says its always empty.

And then the problem where he fills it up with gas and the digital gauge doesn't register it.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
The washer sensor is built into the entire reservoir I believe. My dad got sick of resetting the low warning so I think its unplugged for the time being, but its only $25 or so for a new reservoir so eventually we'd like to fix it.

The gas guage will eventually go up, but it takes a few starts of the engine until it happens.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Now my dads driver side power door lock stopped working. Went to a store, locked it, came back out and it no longer works. Its only the front driver side, using the key still unlocks it. We don't hear any sort of click or anything that tells us the actuator is trying to unlock, just silence. Theres a few videos on how to get the door panel off but its only for earlier models and its slightly different on our 09. Can't really find a good picture online, either. :argh:

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Never mind I got it popped off, was hoping something came unplugged but all seems fine. Should I just be replacing the actuator at this point?

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Hello again thread. Me and my dad we successful in changing out his blend door, and fixing his door locks. Have another problem that we never addressed though. Today he locked himself out of the car so I started looking into figuring out the electronic keypad door locks. Google says that there should be a white tag in the trunk with 5 digits, and there is but we've tried that before and it doesn't work. One thing I noticed today though is that the print date on the tag is 1/19/10, while his car is a 2009 model year. That doesn't make sense, right?

When google says you can replace the module to get a new code, what part is this that is actually being replaced? The physical keypad that mounts on the door? Or is it a smaller module inside that door that has to be swapped?

09 grand marquis

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Raluek posted:

Have you tried to brute force it? I guess this is assuming that nothing bad happens (timeout, alarm, etc) on a bad code entry (or several).
Sounded hopeful at first but then I read in the manual after 5 wrong attempts (25 keypresses) the keypad will lock for 1 minute. So since the sequence is 3129 characters that would take quite a bit longer than 20 minutes. :/

Nostalgia4Butts posted:

i have an '08 grand marquis- nothing in the owners manual about it? i reset mine when I bought mine used, but i had the current code for it at the time.
Nope, just how to create and reset your personal codes. Nothing a previous owner jotted somewhere.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Since the thread was bumped I thought I might just ask one more time. My dads 2009 grand marquis was bought used and he never got the key code for the door lock buttons. Google says the code should be on a white tag on the trunk, and there is a 5 digit code but it does not work. He was also told to check the door module located inside the drivers door but he took it apart and didn't see anything. The buttons do work since they're able to lock the door by hitting buttons 4/5 at the same time. Is there anywhere else the original factory code might be printed? I've googled but haven't come up with much other than the two locations we've looked already.

I only ask again because the poor old man locked his keys in his car twice so far and had to have someone drive an extra set over. My temporary solution is to just buy another keyfob for $4 on ebay and attach it underneath the car somewhere but it would be much easier just to learn the key code.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I remember seeing the magic set of numbers somewhere, can you give me a hint as to what I should google to find it again?

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Tunicate posted:

It's a De Bruijn sequence, and there's one here:

http://everything2.com/index.pl?node_id=1520430
Thanks, didn't know there was a name for that type of sequence. Ill give it a try this weekend.

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Did you check the manuals for any labels or anything? I don't know if there's any sort of VIN-based database that dealers can check, but it might be work making some phone calls.
My dad was quoted something silly like $75 to get the code read at the dealer, but Ill see if there are any other ford dealers that can do it cheaper.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I do remember reading about the key pad disabling itself after so many tries, I guess thats why I gave up on the method.

Update: I had an old key fob lying around from my mustang. I was able to program it to his car and he threw it in the gas tank door in case he ever locks his keys in his car. Its not elegant but it works.

Bonus: Its now programmed for both my mustang and the grand marquis, surprisingly. Hitting lock twice will make both cars beep if they're close enough.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
So an update: 2009 grand marquis ls. HVAC controls are all wonky, the main issue is that something glitches and it only creates 90 degree heat. If you turn the A/C on it will work for 10-15 seconds, and then just switch to full heat. The whole past winter we've had to drive with the windows down even with the fan on the lowest setting since it just shoots out air as hot as it can get.

A few months ago he ripped his entire dash apart to replace the blend door actuator, it worked ok for about a day and then it started happening again. Just last week we bought a "refreshed" HVAC control unit where the seller supposedly opens it up and replaces certain failing components and swaps your old one out. This worked for a day, but he is having the same issue. When you run the diagnostic its either 024, 025 or 888 I believe.

Sometimes the issue goes away for days or weeks at a time, but eventually it always comes back. I don't know what else to look at or replace.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
It was a brand new dorman unit from rock auto. I was just driving around with him yesterday and it was super frustrating. After running through the diagnostic he got error code 025 like 3 times. Each time after resetting it he turns the A/C on to test it. First time it worked for 2 seconds and then switched to full heat. Second time it lasted about 5 seconds, third time was the same. Fourth time he didn't get 025 and we were able to use A/C for the rest of the day.

I emailed the ebay seller of the HVAC controls and he said that if the blend door was the problem it has to be replaced with motorcraft only. Im seeing now that we bought a dorman unit. I really hope we don't have to replace that unit again. :/

Ebay seller posted:

Chain of components involved on "temperature settings":
Internal temperature Sensor -> Climate Control -> Blend Door Motor

1. Bad sensor will show equal readings of -40F inside the car, so it will be hot air only.
2. Climate Control you received being completely repaired and tested on the vehicle for all the settings and functions to work properly, so less likely it is your problem.
3. Blend Door Motor Actuator MUST BE ONLY ORIGINAL Ford manufactured, with MOTORCRAFT sticker on it, aftermarket units will not work properly.

Take it to the pro mechanic and ask him to start from the temp sensor readings first.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
That thing is sweet! I have a push bar that I probably won't be using anymore if you want it. Arent you NEAI or am I thinking of someone else?

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Well get one anyway. :colbert:

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Queen_Combat posted:

Stupid car has developed a pretty bad rattle, sounds like it's coming from inside the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter. At first I thought it was an exhaust leak, because when leaving the parking lot the sound reverberating sounded kinda like a "chuff chuff chuff" of one, but it isn't. Upon further listening, I don't think it's coming from the engine bay, but I just CANNOT track it down. It's loud as hell when revving or when the engine (and therefore exhaust pipes) are shaking, but when it's idling it's almost gone. When the engine changes RPM (and therefore bucks a bit) when the AC compressor kicks in, I can hear the rattle. I think it's louder on the left side, but inspection with a flashlight reveals that all heatshields are perfectly intact, no corrosion at all (AZ car).

This is going to drive me insane. It sounds like my car is falling apart, and I was going to sell it tomorrow. Maybe I'll make up a story about how the "mechanic left a nut" inside the exhaust pipe when the catalytic converters were replaced or something (they never have been, but it's that bad when revved up). Engine runs perfectly as before, no change in MPG.

E: upon further research, probably the catalyst breaking up in one of the cats. drat. Thankfully (?) it sounds like it's on the post-sensor cats, so shouldn't be any issues to broomstick it until I can afford a real fix if it becomes a problem.
I was going to say it sounds like the catalyst breaking up too, that happened in my old mustang and made my car sound like it was running on a coffee can full of rocks.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Hello thread. I'm doin my part to keep cars big.



2007 grandpa car, garaged with 71k miles. More pics tomorrow when I pick it up.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I got pretty lucky! Found the ad 26 minutes after it was posted. Owned by a grandpa that garaged it, it has 71k miles and surprisingly no visible rust! Rides like a dream.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Has anyone swapped an open differential for an lsd in here? I'm trying to find a good balance between easy and cheap. It looks like some P71s came with an lsd and 3.55 gears but I imagine it'll be difficult finding a low mileage option, right?

Should I just pick up something like this: FORD 8.8" - 3.55 EXCEL RING AND PINION - 31 SPLINE - AAM POSI LSD - GEAR PKG? Are differentials something that junkyards will pull off and sell to you off the shelf? Its winter in Buffalo and I don't really want to crawl under a car to take one. I believe I can also use a lsd from mustangs and F-150s and the like and then just buy a clutch rebuild pack and then gears separately if I want those right?

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
My old mustang lives on, sorta. Both my rear wheels had slow leaks in them so figured might as well see how these fit.





P good I'd say.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Man, I haven't done anything cool to this car yet. My hood struts failed last week so that was my first repair job. Popped a bluetooth radio in there finally after 4 months of owning the car. Not sure why that took so long beyond laziness. Finally have some wind visors being delivered today too.

If I want to switch over to a dual exhaust, this is the part I want, right? Take that to a exhaust shop and have them hang a new muffler and pipe out the other side?

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Looks nice! My brother crashed my fathers 2009 mgm last year and they ripped the stereo out, so all the connections were still on it and it felt a waste not to use this one. Certainly made for the fastest radio install I've ever done.



The wire isn't there anymore.

Unfortunately I live in Buffalo, I could probably find a usable donor but it seems worth it to just buy new. I know of a good muffler shop too that would be more than happy to fab the rest up.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Lol that looks awesome. I wish I had the 03-05 front end. The bigger headlights look much better, plus you don't have that weird body panel between the grill and the headlight. Plus marauder parts :getin:

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I found mine on craigslist about 25 minutes after it was posted. Gotta be constantly checking and ready to buy because the deals go fast. I would check facebook too theres plenty on there.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
My ac accumulator is borked. Replacement seems pretty easy, anyone ever do it before? One electrical plug, three bolts, two quick disconnects. Add 3oz of refridgerent oil to the new accumulator. Replace o-rings, lube, put back together? Done.

Factor in time spent swearing at the quick disconnects.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Well the video I watched didn't mention any of that. :saddowns: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAr7wErHeQo

e: I can just swap the part out and have a shop do the rest still? Itll save me a few bucks at least

Cage fucked around with this message at 19:32 on May 13, 2022

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Ill just let a shop handle it. I tried to fill it myself, but it wouldn't take any refrigerant so I just figured it was so empty that the compressor wouldn't kick on. I brought it to a shop who filled it w dye and checked for leaks for a few hours but didn't find anything. I took the car home and Im not sure how long it took cuz the weather was cool but within a couple days it all leaked. I took it back to the shop and it only took him a few minutes to come back to tell me it was the accumulator. I paid $150 the first time and he estimated another $200 or so to finish up so after seeing an accumulator was only $40 I looked up just enough info to think I could do it. Oh well.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Slippin rippin dang fang rotten zarg barg a ding dong





Not a big deal but dang both of them popping up in one day. It begins.

Had a shop do my accumulator, very frosty now. 70 degrees feels colder than 68 in my gfs ecosport. You really feel that power loss on the highway though. Gotta get them duals soon.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Omg.

Some town cars had storage in the doors??



Thats very cool, I could use something like that. I hate the lack of storage space in my mgm. I'm gonna hit up a junkyard this weekend to look for the town car/continental style center storage arm rests.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I noticed my interior lights stopped working, so I checked the fuse and it was blown. I was dumb and switched another working fuse in there and it blew instantly (no more adjustable pedals oops). Googling seems to suggest that a bare wire hitting metal in the visor is a pretty common problem on these cars.

edit: back 2 dad mode

Cage fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Jul 21, 2022

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Hope ya'll spending your summer getting some good cruises in.

I just bought a thing.



:getin:

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
I'm gonna keep the gears, I dont mind the highway ratio.

New diff installed but no burnouts yet, in the process of removing the rotor and putting it back on its now catching the brakes slightly and rubbing so I'm gonna throw new rotors on tomorrow. The guy also nicked my abs sensor so I gotta replace that too. Not mad cuz he still saved me a bunch of money.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
+1 for marty tune. STR is right it really wakes the car up. DBW response is much better and the shift points seem much more suited for getting that pig up to highway speed. Realllly looking forward to how this sounds/improves once I get the dual exhaust on.

New rotors fixed the rubbing noise!! Car is now smooth as butter with the FORD RACING® trak lok.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
Took my seat out to prepare to replace abs sensor.



Old man before me loved the beach. When I first went to look at the car when you brought the hood up you could hear sand moving inside it.

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
So uh, whos got the best paint touch up kit?



My paint was literally just peeling off while driving already, I don't need a wind storm and the associated damage with that too. :mad:



Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
:q:



edit: context

Cage fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Dec 18, 2022

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org
e: car is okay now but LOL


Cage fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Dec 26, 2022

Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Darchangel posted:

Huh.
Lot of wind/drifting snow?
Oops. Yeah 60 mph winds and lots of snow. Icy snow caused some belt slippage but she came out fine.

Anyone ever install a hitch on these boats before? I've had one since last year I just haven't gotten around to installing yet. Seems pretty easy? Line hitch up to frame mark holes drill holes fishwire bolts then tighten up. Any tips?

I bought it with no real purpose, but now I have plans to pick up some sort of bike hitch for it so I can finally start taking my bike places and using it.

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Cage
Jul 17, 2003
www.revivethedrive.org

Darchangel posted:

My hitch was a Curt, as I recall.
This is what I have! Picked it up for $75 last summer.

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