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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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|---|---|---|---|
| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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Gardenias are almost unheard of for indoor plants here, so I can't really speak to that, but that one looks starved of nitrogen. They are heavy feeders, and in a tiny pot like that it will want regular fertilising. Get a balanced water-soluble fertiliser and give it a hit once every week or two - that should help with the flowering as well. You could combine that with a little slow release on the surface of the potting mix as well, just remember to follow the recommended dosage. Make sure the potting mix is draining freely, and as an indoor plant I would let it get just on the dry side before watering again. It could even stand to be repotted if it's as big as it looks in that photo, they grow pretty quickly. Do you work in a nursery or a florist? Ibexaz posted:Well I went out and picked up a Ghost Plant Pick the rotted leaf off - you don't want it to spread, and a cut leaf is more vulnerable than the leaf-stem junction. As Plant Monster said, give it some water. The potting mix looks pretty shrunken so I'd actually soak it - submerge the whole pot in water until the air bubbles stop rising to the surface, then let it all drain out. Don't sit it in a saucer - better to wet the mix thoroughly and let it drain. Then let it dry out again before the next watering, but try not to let it sit dry for days, especially over the growing season. A good method is to lift the pot and learn how it feels with and without water in it - it may look dry but have water below the surface. It's hard to tell from the photo but the mix looks very high in organics, like peat moss or coir. These materials will shrink when dry, but they also become very hard to rewet, so you might find that it dries out very quickly after you water it. The cactus mix you bought should be much better suited - everyone will have their own preferred ratios, but ideally you want something with a more balanced amount of organic material and coarse sand, or perlite, so that the mix wets easily but also drains excess water quickly. I would repot it after a couple of waterings just to get it out of that mix, but it's not urgent. In general they need just a little fertiliser - something like a half-strength dose of a liquid fertiliser every couple of weeks through the growing season would be help. It will get even leggier in time, I personally find they look better without the long stem (and it's a bit fragile) but that's your call. You can cut the heads off and strike them to make new plants, and the stems should reshoot from below the cut after that as well. And any whole leaf will strike from the stem end. You could have dozens! Discomedusae fucked around with this message at 12:34 on Mar 28, 2018 |
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Mar 28, 2018 11:33
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 02:50 |
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Plant MONSTER. posted:A florist. I have studied horticulture in college (landscaping and production). Gardenias aren't really a thing in Canada (BC doesn't count lol) so we only ever see them as indoor plants, infamous for their propensity for death. Yeah, I got a fair few plants for free when I worked at a garden centre, and I still get some from time to time as a gardener - I inherited some bromeliads (Neoregelia, I think) from a recent job, also a couple of anemone and even found an abandoned Dendrobium once. I'm in Sydney, and gardenias are everywhere here! Obviously they hate frost, even our winters are slightly too cold and they can yellow up a bit, but that clears once the soil starts to warm up. People just don't feed them or water them enough though - the best ones are usually in good morning sun on the richer clay soils away from the beaches. They do like a slightly acidic soil, maybe like a 6-6.5 pH, but not as much as for azaleas or camellias, and they'll cope with neutral if other conditions are good. You do see specialty fertilisers that group those plants together though (sometimes also with blueberries). I find pH is not something to worry about too much in a potting mix, a decent commercial mix won't be wildly acid or basic unless it's specifically composed for that or you've just mixed it up yourself and included a bunch of wood ash or peat moss something. It's more important to find a mix with a good balance of water holding capacity and drainage/aeration.
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Mar 29, 2018 12:33
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Thought I'd post some pics from over the long weekend. A grevillea, an Australian native - I think this is G. whiteana. Grevilleas are really common garden plants here, and there are dozens of varieties. They are great for attracting birds.  A protea (I think?), from South Africa. No idea which species.  Bonus dahlia, one of the pompom types.  FogHelmut posted:I also have a succulent related dirt question - There are plenty of extremely drought hardy plants that aren't succulents and that will thrive in clay-based soils, and I bet there will be some native to Socal. Go out to your local nurseries and ask around. Obviously it will depend on the species of succulent, but in my experience they prefer sandy to loamy topsoils - you'd be struggling uphill there. You can improve your topsoil, even if it is clayey. Dig in lots of compost and cow manure into the top 100 mm, maybe plant a cover crop like wildflowers, beans, peas, lupins, whatever, and give everything time, for the bugs to convert all that food into humus and the plant roots to loosen up the structure. Eventually you'll get sometime more like a clay loam. Gypsum is suitable for clay soils that have high levels of sodium, which you can easily test for, but otherwise it won't improve things. Applying organic matter is a longer-term solution. Discomedusae fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Apr 6, 2018 |
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Apr 6, 2018 13:34
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Boris Galerkin posted:Re: cuttings Cutting above the node (ie, on the other side of the node from the main trunk) is correct for pruning something off a plant, but once you have your cutting, you want to actually trim away any stem below the bottom node. That is, you want the bottom of your cutting, the cut, to be just below an entire, undamaged node, not in the middle of a length of stem and with a node way above it. You can remove the leaves or stems from this bottom node so it can fit into your pot/glass of water/whatever. We do this because the new roots will develop at the cut. The nodes are one of the main growing points on a plant and contain a high proportion of unassigned cells that can become root cells. They will root more quickly and vigorously than internodal tissue, with less chance of failure. Some things are trivial to strike, and others are very hard, but this is the general principle used in propagation by cutting.
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Apr 9, 2018 08:22
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extravadanza posted:I've got a young Bloodgood Maple in my yard (about 6ft high) that had a piece of bark, about 1 inch sq, ripped off near the base of the trunk. That was about a week ago, and since then some of the leaves on the furthest reaches, at the top of a few of the sides have started to die. I have two questions: Tree putty/wound sealant is not really considered good practice by arborists nowadays, at least here. The tree will compartmentalise damage by itself, sealing the wound will just trap moisture around it and encourage decay. If the wound is deep enough it will have cut into the vascular tissue, which moves water and nutrients up to the leaves. Could well be causing a bit of stress in the foliage but I doubt it could kill the tree unless the wound wraps around a fair portion of the trunk. You'll just have to wait and let the tree seal itself up, eventually it will internalise the whole thing as the trunk thickens. Make sure it gets enough water but try not to hose over the wound.
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Jun 6, 2018 06:13
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 02:50 |
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Nosre posted:Couple years ago we sprouted some Avocados for fun, with two surviving. They sure aren't happy, though. Anyone hazard a guess whether this is fungal or a deficiency, and if anything can be done? Are they near a heater or air con outlet, or a drafty spot? Second pic looks a lot like the leaf blade is drying out. Could also be that your indoor air is much drier than what an avocado is used to.
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Feb 8, 2019 07:42
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