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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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If you’ve had it for ages, it might be rootbound and appreciated a larger pot.
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May 17, 2019 09:49
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 00:11 |
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Ultimate Shrek Fan posted:What's the safest way to get bad soil out of a well developed fine root system? You probably know this, but make sure the soil you give it is suitably acidic.
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May 22, 2019 22:21
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Ultimate Shrek Fan posted:My poor lil blueberry bush is wilting. My water has a really high ph, so I diluted some hypronic ph down and sprayed a bunch of it around hoping itll pick back up I’m not an expert on diagnosing blueberry ills, but I do know quick fixes for soil acidity. Low soil acidity means the plant can’t take up iron. So you need to get the iron to the plant. Chelated iron and ferrous sulphate are both capable of getting iron into the leaf when applied topically (“foliar application”, i.e. to the leaf) I use iron sulphate. It is sold in garden shops for the purposes of greening lawns and killing moss. Dissolve fifteen grams in a litre of water and spray all the leaves, top and bottom. Unfortunately, iron is immobile inside the plant. It’ll only help the areas it touches. Iron sulphate can also be used to increase soil acidity. Look up tables for this based on soil type and the pH shift necessary, but it’s on the order of a hundred grams per square metre of soil. Most “pH down” has very similar effect; they both result in sulphuric acid getting into the soil. So, for that matter, does “agricultural” (read “elemental”) sulphur, but elemental sulphur has to be oxidised by soil microbes. That takes a year or more for full effect. Chelated iron has its own perks. Like ferrous sulfate, it can be applied foliarly. It cannot increase soil acidity, but when it is watered into the soil, the iron becomes available to the plant in spite of the low acidity. This is a nice trick because if the roots take up the iron, it can be taken anywhere in the plant—it’s not stuck wherever you sprayed it. Again, I’ve never had a plant that looked like that, so take what I said with a grain of salt. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 04:24 on May 25, 2019 |
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May 25, 2019 04:20
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I obtained a pitanga plant on Saturday. Today I did a little work on it. First I teased out some seedlings that had sprouted in the pot.  There were six total, but I potted three of them before I thought to take this photo. I poked the three seeds into soil. They may or may not germinate in three months. Then I addressed the parent tree.  It has classic chlorotic leaves, so I pH‐tested the soil. It’s off the chart past 7.5. The tables say that two hundred grams of iron sulphate should bring it from 7.5 to 6.0. I applied half that amount now and will check it again in a fortnight. For a quick fix, I sprayed the leaves with a solution of ferrous sulphate, five grams to a litre.
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May 30, 2019 06:52
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gently caress PRIVETS That is all.
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Jun 4, 2019 05:02
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Contracting toxoplasmosis is like getting a minor case of serious brain injury.
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Jun 4, 2019 19:50
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I’m saying that I’d try to avoid it even if you are not pregnant or soon to be pregnant.
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Jun 4, 2019 20:21
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FizFashizzle posted:also I AM A FARMER WHERE ARE MY SUBSIDIES You fool! Now you’ll never get the subsidies for not farming.
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Jun 7, 2019 20:23
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kedo posted:What type of plant captures the most carbon/produces the most oxygen? Algae
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Jun 11, 2019 03:46
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kedo posted:Is this per plant, or in terms of global biomass because it’s everywhere? In terms of global biomass. The single winning plant is Pando. The per‐plant winning species is, I suspect, sequioadendron giganteum, but perhaps there are enough sprouts out there to make some endangered tree the winner. What you may be asking is what’s the most efficient plant at liberating carbon, for a given amount of space or solar radiation or water or some other resource. That’s harder to answer.
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Jun 11, 2019 04:22
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I’m sending positive thoughts the gourd’s way.
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Jun 11, 2019 22:32
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I. M. Gei posted:This is more General Yardchat than Plantchat, but if anybody is looking for some goodass perfectly-tuned wind-chimes, I gotchu. I’ll just wait for my neighbours to get some and enjoy them for free.
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Jun 14, 2019 08:18
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Praise the Gᴏᴜʀᴅ! The Sᴏɴ of Gᴏᴜʀᴅ did not come to be served, but to serve.
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Jun 15, 2019 00:05
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lwoodio posted:Can anyone ID this big shrub? I saw this in a park in Ohio. It was about 7 feet tall and covered with bees. I'm looking to plant a tall hedgerow and want something that brings bees and butterflies. That’s a loving privet. Don’t plant that poo poo. Give me a moment to come up with some appropriate alternatives.
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Jun 20, 2019 00:48
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 Viburnum  Abelia  Lilac I like holly and boxwood hedges but they don’t flower so much, especially if trimmed.
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Jun 20, 2019 01:22
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If you wait to see how the apricot tree does, you can buy a bare root tree next winter for cheap. If you value the headstart, you can buy a potted apricot now for roughly double the price.
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Jun 20, 2019 06:18
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Besides the cold, something that could have put it on death’s doorstep is waterlogged soil. Stonefruit trees are vulnerable to drainage problems. The solutions are to plant elsewhere, channel water away from the area (e.g. with a French drain), or build a raised bed for the tree. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2nI0k79Ec0 Assuming for a moment that drainage is the issue, and that you want to try to salvage that tree, my thinking would be to dig it up now and plant it in a raised position. I don’t know that the tree stands a better chance of surviving that than if you let it rest in situ till wet weather threatened. Either way, transplant shock may well kill it, and I figure it’s better to roll the dice on that now and see how it shakes out. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Jun 20, 2019 |
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Jun 20, 2019 12:13
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Get something from the Bushel and Berry line. They are intended for growing in containers and looking good while doing it. Will it be as low maintenance as a non‐edible? No. This is blueberry “Pink Icing”: 
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Jun 21, 2019 08:15
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 Amorphophallus titanum That’s Latin for “giant misshapen penis”
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Jun 22, 2019 08:46
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lwoodio posted:What is the reason behind a plant cultivar needing a different cultivar to be pollinated? The whole point of sexual reproduction is to produce some variety in offspring so that some of them might be fitter than their parent. If the plant is pollinated by itself or a clone, it’s not taking advantage of that. It might be better to wait for dissimilar pollen to come around. So some plants have mechanisms to reject highly self-similar pollen. Other plants have strategies to keep their own pollen from reaching their own receptors but if it reaches them anyway, they don’t reject it. They can be receptive to pollen one day, then cease to be receptive and only then start producing pollen of their own. They never produce pollen before they cease to be receptive, so they can never fertilise themselves. And of course some plants just don’t care, especially if we’ve bred them not to.
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Jun 23, 2019 20:22
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Bi-la kaifa posted:I'm realizing now that the soil in my garden bed is poo poo. Can I remedy this without tearing everything out and starting over? In what aspects is it poo poo and what do you have planted? Many things can be fixed without digging everything up.
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Jun 26, 2019 04:19
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Bi-la kaifa posted:It's mostly clay and hasn't got much nutrients in it. Before I made the bed I mixed in a bunch of manure and compost to try and remedy it but it's still lacking. I've got some perennials and some sunflowers in there now. The leaves are going a bit yellow now. I've been fertilizing with 24-8-16 but I'm worried it's not a good long term solution. Send a soil sample to a lab. Many public universities test soil for a small fee. I have a suspicion your soil is high, and if that’s so, plants can have trouble taking up nutrients no matter how much fertiliser is applied.
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Jun 26, 2019 06:04
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I don’t like sand. It’s coarse and rough and irritating and it gets everywhere.
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Jun 28, 2019 09:47
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Cut off half of its spindly bits. Place it in front of a south‐facing window. Wait for it to get new growth. Cut off the rest of the spindly bits.
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Jul 10, 2019 00:49
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Suspect Bucket posted:I recently 'adopted' a majesty palm that was root bound in a tiny pot, I got it repotted and it has taken pride of place amongst my other patio/indoor plants. It's SUPER thirsty though. I have to go away for 2 weeks, what's the best cheap way to keep it damp while I'm gone? Soda bottle waterers and mulch? Tub it?Anything dumb and obvious? I don't have a hose connection by me, so no weep system for me. There are drip systems that can draw water from a reservoir and distribute it on a timer, but they’re not particularly cheap. You could drill a hole in a bucket, pass drip tubing through the hole, seal the hole with silicone or other sealant, put the wimpiest drip emitter you can find on the tube (probably two litres per hour, get one that isn’t pressure‐compensated), fill the bucket with water, and elevated the bucket to a height that gives the flow rate you need.
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Jul 11, 2019 01:50
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Group photo. They'll all be moved indoors once the weather goes back to being cold.
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toplitzin posted:Is it ok to start with one cut at this far back [red line](its still less than half the leaves)? What is it? Pachira glabra? You can start small if you want. Cut the stem not far after a leaf node (which your red line depicts). Give it a good amount of sunlight.
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Jul 11, 2019 06:17
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Carpobrotus edulis
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Jul 20, 2019 12:41
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BrianWilly posted:
That soil is still plenty wet. When the surface of the soil is all that lighter brown, that’s when I would be thinking about watering them.
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Jul 29, 2019 23:13
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theHUNGERian posted:I want to buy some milkweed plants in containers to cover my cement-covered patio with them. I am mainly trying to attract butterflies. The plants would stay in containers forever. Container culture has some challenges that in‐ground planting doesn’t, but almost anything can be grown in a container indefinitely. That’s especially true for “weeds”. The worse‐case scenario is something like a tree where you have to go in and prune the roots every few years or it’ll decline in health. A half barrel would be a great planter. I’d plant multiple species for variety, if nothing else. Use a good potting mix and stay on top of watering. Containers dry out faster than garden soil, but it’s all too easy to have the opposite problem of poor drainage and perpetual damp. In southern California, you might be watering every one to three days in the summer.
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Jul 29, 2019 23:59
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A. curassavica is non‐native, but monarch caterpillars will still eat it. There is some concern that it is disrupting migratory habits, however. Here’s a document about some of the Asclepias spp. native to California, with basic information about each. There are native‐specific nurseries that are more likely to have what you want. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Jul 30, 2019 |
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Jul 30, 2019 04:43
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I need to cold treat some Arbutus unedo seeds I obtained. The latest research says that they don’t break dormancy like many seeds. What happens is that they germinate at less‐than‐room temperature. Keeping them at 15 °C works, but they can also be tricked by keeping them at 5 °C for sixty days, then moving them to twenty or twenty‐five degrees.  It’s easier for me to do that than it is to set up a minifridge just for their special temperature.
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Jul 30, 2019 06:41
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Nosre posted:Anyone ID what deficiency this is? On lemons in pots I think that’s nitrogen deficiency.
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Sep 2, 2019 10:46
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The veins turn yellow first because the plant is pulling nitrogen from old growth to use elsewhere. Iron, zinc, and manganese show the opposite pattern (interveinal chlorosis) and only on new growth because they are immobile within the plant. That’s the idea, anyway. Cold soil and girdling could cause symptoms like you’re seeing, but I rather doubt either is happening here. Overwatering is sufficient to do it, but it sounds like you’ve had the tree long enough to know how thirsty it is and that the yellowing is recent.
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Sep 2, 2019 11:46
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Nosre posted:1 cup to a gallon seems like a lot? Gonna try it though I guess Eeyo posted:It does sound like a lot. The liquid fertilizer that I've been using is on the order of a tablespoon-ish per gallon (can't remember exactly what). But it may be that the granules have a lot less fertilizer per volume, since they need binders and stabilizers and like slow-release stuff or whatever. The key is that you’re not pouring that whole gallon on a plant. For soaking, the instructions have you diluting again at up to one part concentrate to eight parts water, so it ultimately works out to two tablespoons of granules per gallon. Let’s check that. I have Miracle‐Gro Shake ’n Feed that I wish were a liquid. NPK concentration is 12‒4‒8 I look up the data for Miracle‒Gro Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food. It’s exactly double in concentration, at 24‒8‒16. It’s supposed to be used at one tablespoon per gallon. quote:With a Watering Can: Mix 1 tablespoon of Miracle-Gro® for every gallon of water. So for the same concentration of nutrients, I would need two tablespoons of the granules, same as your source suggested for the upper end of the range. This assumes that the nutrients in the granules are soluble and they pack as densely in the tablespoon as the powder does. Neither of these are likely to be true, and they err on the side of underfertilising. Knowing that, I would definitely use the upper end of the recommendation, i.e. two cups of concentrate per gallon for outdoor plants. For indoor plants, the soluble Miracle‐Gro instructions suggest using one‐sixth the amount. Make of that what you will. The more a plant is growing, the more nutrients it needs. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Sep 3, 2019 |
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Sep 2, 2019 23:39
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If the leaves have fallen off, they are ready to go into the garage. They don’t need further chill.
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Sep 28, 2019 06:36
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I believe the whole thing will fit. It’s shorter than the Weird News thread title.
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Oct 3, 2019 18:53
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I’m looking forward to the update, in sixth months, that Spring be loving.
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Oct 3, 2019 19:57
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When pot or repot small plants, I submerge the pot so the soil is floating around freely, tease the roots into it, and let the soil solidify around the roots as I pull the pot out of the water.
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Oct 6, 2019 07:48
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 Pictured: a shameful amount spent on bulbs. (Not mine.)
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Oct 7, 2019 02:45
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 00:11 |
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Oil of Paris posted:I think my current plan is to dig a giant, deep loving hole in a good spot and fill it in with better soil so that it drains more efficiently. I think if you do that, you’ll end up with a pond. You need to build a mound and/or install a drain to take the water to someplace lower.
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Oct 16, 2019 02:35
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