What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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Perennials! | 142 | 20.91% | |
Annuals! | 30 | 4.42% | |
Woody plants! | 62 | 9.13% | |
Succulent plants! | 171 | 25.18% | |
Tropical plants! | 60 | 8.84% | |
Non-vascular plants are the best! | 31 | 4.57% | |
Screw you, I'd rather eat them! | 183 | 26.95% | |
Total: | 679 votes |
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unprofessional posted:This is an Echinopsis, of which there is a fantastic collection of hybrids that the Huntington garden sells for only $7 a plant, if you're looking to start collecting. http://www.mattslandscape.com/trichocereus/ I've never seen flowers like this. Fortunately I don't have any more farting around cash til I get paid again. Can't wait to get these into the ground. Ironically, the array of tiny succulents I just ordered are going to be potted right next to my container pond. Apparently I'm only interested in plants that either don't want water or live it.
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# ¿ May 28, 2014 01:20 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 09:35 |
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Fister Roboto posted:My sister-in-law got me a succulent as a gift. She told me it needs a lot of direct sunlight, but I live in an apartment with North-facing windows so I only get direct sunlight for like two weeks out of the year. Do I need to buy a lmap to keep this thing alive?
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# ¿ Sep 22, 2016 01:26 |
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Fozzy The Bear posted:My roses liked the extra rain we got here in Northern California.
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2017 01:49 |
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Anyone have experience building planters for railings? We have a pretty small patio but we have a metal fence around it that has a flat top rail that is 1 3/4" wide. Big Box store planters all seem to be build for much wider wood railings. Ideally we would buy/create a system where we could put planters on both sides of the railing to massively increase our square footage. Something like this would let us attach planter boxes, but we would still need to buy the boxes and at 40 bucks a pair, those are some expensive brackets. I was actually thinking about some kind of balanced system where the planter boxes on each side of the railing (front and back) are attached and balance each other, but there don't seem to be many examples of that out there.
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2017 18:33 |
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Oodles posted:Thank gently caress I found this thread. The Snoo posted:eat the dandelions
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2017 21:10 |
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Hirayuki posted:There are a lot of them for sale here, both single and double; maybe they could give you some inspiration. (Ignore the ones for wider railings.) I have the opposite problem in that my deck railings are too wide to upgrade to the ones I wanted here. And my planters are really shallow in the middle, such that the root portion of most nursery plants won't easily fit. It's going to take a lot of soil and watering to stay on top of them this year. I think I may just end up building my own out of pressure treated fence boards - found a few pretty simple plans.
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# ¿ May 1, 2017 00:56 |
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Has anyone done a Xeric/Drought tolerant style container garden? The sun has finally broken over the roof on our small north facing patio here in San Jose and I can already tell its going to absolutely bake everything during the summer. We have a lot of stuff planted but want to transition to a plant list and container plan for next year that is more tolerant of the heat. Thinking of going with a handful of bigger, deeper containers so they can hold water better. CA native stuff like Agastache/Penstemon/Salvia etc should all grow just fine in containers, right? Only real concern is that the patio gets only a few hours of winter sun, until the sun rises high enough and then its all day. Will those plants still flower?
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# ¿ May 3, 2017 02:54 |
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The Snoo posted:my tomato plant set a few tomatoes! I've been looking for a quality balcony solution for our new apartments patio. It has a 1.5" rectangular metal railing and I can't find anything at Home Depot/Lowes or local gardening store that is designed for metal railings. Ideally I would like to fill the whole 8 foot patio and be able to put legit heavy planter boxes/pots across the entire thing. Since I want to put it on the outside of the railing, its really important that it is sturdy and overbuilt since a pot falling onto the walkway below would be really bad. Not adverse to spending a couple of hundred bucks to get something versatile and well made.
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2017 22:07 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:Not sure what you mean by "legit heavy"exactly but searching Amazon for "balcony planter" gives loads of trough/basket results, some of which say in the details that they'll fit 1 3/4" rails
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2017 17:08 |
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Ya fair point. Its actually not so much a balcony as an extension of the second story landing where the top two units enter their front doors.
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2017 01:02 |
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I picked up a Salvia Clevelandii "'Winnifred Gilman' to put in a container since it is something of a dwarf variety. I originally was not interested in Cleveland Sage since it gets absolutely HUGE and I dislike the funky smell, but I came across this variety and wow, the smell is so good. It is this lemony mint smell with just a hint of a smoky tang and I can't get enough of it. Supposedly it is a tough variety to grow but I've got it in a mix that is almost half Perlite (gently caress that stuff is pricey) so it better do well.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2018 20:51 |
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thesurlyspringKAA posted:I recently got into container gardening of drought tolerant plants capable of withstanding a lot of full sun and I’m not doing well. I bought 3 medium sized Texas Sage and i think I’ve overwatered them. Leaves are drooping and some are yellowing and falling off. Is there a chance they’ll come back if I just lay off the water for a week, or are they done?
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2018 23:43 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:And these guys keep everything running, can't work here if you're afraid of bumblebees and flying insects in general.
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# ¿ May 28, 2018 16:30 |
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I think I'm killing my 'Winifred Gilman' Cleveland Sage. Despite the flower stalks continuing to grow and now open up, many of the leaves are yellowing and falling off. It is in a container that is basically half sand with a little perlite and the rest cactus mix. Should I literally not water it now that its summer? I'm getting conflicting information that it can't handle any summer water OR that this variety is more tolerant of garden water. Last week I went about 4 days with no water to see if that helped, but the tips started to droop (which I usually take as a sign that a plant needs water).
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# ¿ May 31, 2018 03:01 |
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Shame Boner posted:It's a regular ol' fashioned daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) which isn't actually a lily. Also known as a tawny lily, ditch lily, or "tiger lily" (to intentionally confuse it with the actual tiger lily, Lilium lancifolium). The blooms only last for a day or two before shriveling up and falling to the ground. Everything on a daylily is edible, from the tubers that resemble little fingerling potatoes to the blooms; I'm gonna fry up a good helping of both this year. They provide excellent erosion control.
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# ¿ Jun 5, 2018 01:13 |
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Clematis are on my "as soon as I move from my apartment to a house" list - so amazing.
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# ¿ Jun 8, 2018 00:04 |
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The leaves of my container planted 'Blue Fortune' Hyssop/Agastache are slowly turning yellow from the bottom. Interestingly, there are clear pink lines on the leaves along the veins. This is the second year of the plant, and it bloomed well last year when planted. Died back so I cut it to the ground this spring and it is now 2+ feet tall with the first flower spikes just starting to emerge. Its in a container with Garnet Penstemon and Purple Ignition Salvia, both of which are fine. Its planted in a super high drain soil mix that is about 60% sand or perlite and the rest cactus mix. Been getting daily water up until last week, when I stopped watering thinking it was maybe too much. Can't emphasize how well this pot drains - I can water in the morning and by night time following an 80 degree day, the soil is dry to 4" or more. I also watered every day all summer last year to no ill affects. Mostly I'm worried that it will continue to spread up the plant and kill it.
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# ¿ Jun 16, 2018 19:31 |
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I planted a few containers last spring with drought hardy flowering plants, specifically Agastache varieties. On the advice of the internet, I let the dead stems stand all winter "so birds could eat the seeds". All of them came back this spring and today, I went to go pinch the stems and clear out what I thought were some weeds growing in the containers. To my surprise, I realize that almost every single one of the "weeds" was actually a sprouted and growing Agastache seedling! I'm tempted to leave them as I ended up wishing I had planted more of them in each pot last year, as they grow fairly spindly and it wasn't as thick as I wanted. Should I just let them grow and nature takes its course, or should I thin them out at some point? Maybe wait til they get bigger and try to transplant?
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# ¿ Apr 2, 2019 02:18 |
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Fitzy Fitz posted:Be careful learning proper pruning. Once you've learned it, you can't unsee all the lovely rear end trees that are basically everywhere. Every parking lot is full of lion-tailed, mulch volcanoed, topped, codominant garbage trees.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2019 23:41 |
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I. M. Gei posted:
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2019 00:36 |
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I. M. Gei posted:Stark Bros seem to think peaches work well for espaliers, but they don’t really go into any detail on how, and I know relatively little about fruit trees. Can you elaborate? To be honest, I don't know why they would say that. Sure, you could grow it in a "fan" form or something, but stone fruit trees are just not suited for the classic espalier designs. When you see those 100 year old orchards in Europe with decorative espalier fruit trees, its pretty much all apple/pear. Stone fruit just 1) grows way too crazy fast and 2) doesn't fruit on spurs.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2019 22:46 |
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Ya stakes are pretty overkill in most situations. Landscapers use them because they want to plant a bunch of trees, set the watering timer and then literally never deal with it again. People see those "professional trees" with a stake on either side and a mound of mulch, and then think they need to do all that for a peach tree that will grow like a weed no matter what you do.
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# ¿ Apr 24, 2019 04:14 |
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Pablo Bluth posted:The two sunflower seeds I planted last weekend have just started to peek through the soil. Now it's a race to the death for one to avoid being the weaker one that's going to be pulled.
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2019 06:17 |
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Eeyo posted:Any recommendation for some flowers that would grow well on an East facing balcony? Something that won't mind only ~4-6 hours of direct sun a day. My go to flowering plant for part sun is Lobelia. Here is one of mine that gets about 3 hours of morning sun, then another 4-6 of part shade/heavily filtered light from a tree. The magenta is so saturated that the iphone sensor seems to have a hard time with it. This was one of those 6 pack trays of little plants from a Home depot for like 4 bucks. Its like this for most of the year here in the bay area.
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2019 22:51 |
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Eeyo posted:Thanks! Smell would be nice.
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2019 23:33 |
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I. M. Gei posted:How do climbing roses and peach trees fare in partial shade/sun? I’m thinking roses might be alright in partial sun, but I’ll probably need to prune back some oak branches above my house before I can plant a peach tree.
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2019 05:45 |
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I. M. Gei posted:My family has had 3 wisteria bushes in my lifetime and not a single one has flowered. What are we doing wrong?
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# ¿ May 1, 2019 01:30 |
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Ya, a Japanese Maple could be a good choice although that depends on the size of the balcony.
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# ¿ May 2, 2019 22:45 |
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Its ok to use Tropical/Mexican milkweed, but you need to remember that in many places, it wont die back in the winter. All milkweed should be sheared to the ground in winter to stop the spread of a really nasty parasite that is doing a lot of harm to monarch populations. CA native milkweeds will usually do that on their own, but Tropical species like A. curassavica need to be cut down. The other issue is that species like curassavica spread like CRAZY when they poo poo out all of those fluffy seed pods. Even if you cut down your milkweed, wild populations of Tropical milkweed are hurting the populations. From personal experience, I think the best way to get monarchs is to plant a lot of the same milkweed. Otherwise they may not be able to detect your plants - the more you put in one spot, the easier it will be for them to find the plants.
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2019 05:36 |
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Anyone have experience growing CA native plants in containers? I have a patio that gets full sun April-October (north facing) and a small yard that is partly sunny, and I'm on year three of killing sage and lavender. I just can't figure it out, although this year has been more successful than last. I'm starting to think the key is to take the sun down a notch from what they would want in the ground, i.e. sage that loves full sun when ground planted should get only part sun in a container. But its still a mess.
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# ¿ Sep 2, 2019 23:07 |
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Any ideas on a garden planning tool that will let me visually show what the garden would roughly look like from a normal view? I'm thinking of those garden design books where the show the top down plan of what goes where, then a sort of street view of the finished garden with plants in bloom at their correct heights and so forth. I'm helping my parents turn their suburban lawn into a CA natives meadow but I want to be able to play around with different heights and sizes of plants.
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2020 06:19 |
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So I didnt trust the seed coverage recommendation for a wildflower mix I put in my new 6'x4' raised bed and appear to have way over seeded. This is the mix. Says it covers 624 sq ft and I used half the package for 24 sq ft! 3 weeks later and I have so many seedlings coming up that it looks like lawn in some spots. Should I let it ride or aggressively thin it? If so, should I do it now or wait til the plants are bigger? Most are still in the cotyledon stage. Just grab clumps with my thumb and forefinger and make space? First time doing seeds so I'm a bit lost.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2020 22:55 |
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Atticus_1354 posted:Haha I get this question at work a lot so you're not alone. Nobody believes us and are often used to seed packages that are 98% filler. You can thin them some now and as they grow keep an eye on areas that look overly thick. It's not the end of the world and dont worry too much about it. Next time add clean sand to the seed and it will make it easier to spread over a larger area.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2020 21:32 |
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Oil of Paris posted:That does sound cute hah. One of my big motivators to clean up vast yard and plant pretty and interesting poo poo everywhere was for kids so I totally understand the reasoning. Now I’m just obsessed with weirder and weirder plants so w/e
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# ¿ Feb 24, 2020 05:14 |
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Oil of Paris posted:Lol, wife put the kibosch on cacti and agave pretty much immediately for same reason.
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# ¿ Feb 24, 2020 21:07 |
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Tremors posted:Costco had a pack of Acidanthera 'Murielae' bulbs. The flowers looked cool so of course I bought it. Now I need to figure out what to do with 120 bulbs.
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# ¿ Feb 25, 2020 02:28 |
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Despite thinning a couple of times, my wildflower bed is still SUPER thick. It looks like I'm growing a lawn out here. I'm starting to worry because the places where the seedlings are not as thick, the plants are starting to get noticeably bigger. Should I keep doing modest thinning on this bed or just go buck wild and rip a bunch out? Let it ride? Goal is still to be in full flower in 2 months.
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# ¿ Mar 14, 2020 00:35 |
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Thanks for the advice, yeah I'm definitely going for the overgrown look. Its going to be my daughters "fairy garden" after all Ideally I don't see any soil and its just a jungle of different green leaves with all kinds of different flowers shooting out all over the place. Also this is just one corner of a 6'x4' bed and I don't see myself on my hands and knees sorting through every seedling. I'll likely just start by making a checkerboard of empty soil by pinching out clumps of plants and then just sort of thin from there? The other issue is that its got like 12 different seeds in the mix and I don't want to end up leaving only seedlings from a few varieties. Edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVhEB_8r5XA&t=164s This video was sort of part of my inspiration, I can't leave them that thick though? His seedlings look super thick. cheese fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Mar 14, 2020 |
# ¿ Mar 14, 2020 02:05 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:There's no right answer! Pump enough fertilizer and water in there and you might could leave it as thick as it currently is. If you just start randomly grabbing seedlings and pulling them out it'll go faster than you think. I've had zinnias come up almost that thick and been too lazy to thin them and still gotten zinnia flowers, they just were half the the height and the flowers were half the size they normally are. Your daughter will think they are cool and fun whether they are flowers an inch across or 6" across. Tiny child fingers are also very nimble at thinning seedlings, and the earlier you start them playing in the dirt the better, IMO, plus she'll probably think it's fun and be invested in it. Let some go to seed and collect the seeds for next year's garden too!
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# ¿ Mar 14, 2020 04:09 |
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# ¿ May 15, 2024 09:35 |
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Platystemon posted:Ailanthus altissima, or as they call it in its native land, “foul-smelling tree”, is one of the worst.
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# ¿ Mar 15, 2020 01:53 |