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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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I need forearm-length gloves since my arms and hands break out in hives if I even think of pruning some of my perennials, especially azalea. As far as I can tell, there is no such thing as a men's rose gardening glove. Are there any good stand-ins?
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Dec 5, 2014 19:36
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For the first time ever this winter, we got a really bad spider mite infestation on our hibiscus that was taken in for the winter. I always tend to bring in a few, but they rarely cause enough damage to notice. When I started noticing serious damage, I drenched it in a dishsoap mixture, which apparently gives them superpowers. Now their numbers have exploded and are starting to spread to a nearby croton. Since temps are hovering around single digits right now, I can't spray outside and I'm limited to the chemicals I can spray inside. Is there anything I can do short of chucking the infested plants? I haven't tried neem because I'm apprehensive about spraying that indoors. I'm dealing with a mix of two-spotted and red mites.
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Feb 24, 2015 18:46
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The neem oil treatment worked great on my plants! I seem to have the little fuckers on the ropes and my hibiscus, pitiful as it looks now that it's lost most of its leaves, is showing a ton of new growth with the increasing spring sun. I'd like to encourage bushier growth and more development on the interior nodes. Should I be pinching the flower buds back to achieve this? Should I pinch the outermost growth as well? The plant seems to be putting a lot of energy into developing flowers and growth at the ends of the branches.
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Mar 15, 2015 19:27
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Fasdar posted:Most importantly, be extremely careful to not disturb the cucumber's roots, as they are very fragile and if damaged will cause serious stunting. I have a packet of cukes (Park's All-Season hybrid) that recommends starting seeds 4 - 6 weeks indoors. I'd never heard of starting them indoors but figured I'd give them a head start. 3 weeks in and the roots had already penetrated the peat pot, which is exactly what I knew would happen. The plant responded by halting all growth. The same happened to the zukes I started indoors, except they didn't stop growing altogether. This is only my second year growing, but I'm thinking it was bad advice to start these indoors as I don't see an outcome where shock and root disturbance can be avoided. Maybe I just need to time things better next time.
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Apr 26, 2015 13:00
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Shab posted:My cat has acquired a taste for bamboo leaves. I'm a plant noob, are there sprays out there that discourage animals from chewing on them but won't harm the plants themselves? My cats scoffed at bitter treatments, so I like to use habanero oil, like the kind you get to deter squirrels (my squirrels laugh at the heat). In order to prevent my cats from chewing on the leaves of a Ponytail Palm of mine, I put on some gloves, soaked a paper towel, then folded it half, rubbing both sides of each leaf. It was painstaking treating each of the leaves, but the cats learn quick and haven't returned for a snack since I did it over a year ago.
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Feb 18, 2016 19:21
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Do you suppose your thatch problem could've been caused or exacerbated by the fungicide application? At the very least, discouraging fungal growth also discourages the breaking down of lignins, since fungi are by far the most effective at this (as far as my understanding goes). Something like 30% of thatch is composed of lignins, and dry thatch in particular takes a very long time to break down.
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May 6, 2016 20:38
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robotindisguise posted:Any reccomendations for part shade ppantd and vines to grow in hanging baskets on a covered porch? Florida 9a. I really like Fuchsia for both hanging baskets and shady corners. Glad to hear you don't have to really fight your shithead neighbor about that drainage problem.
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Jun 9, 2016 18:32
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robotindisguise posted:Looks awesome. Is there a variety you're aware of that handles the heat? I'll have to order from somewhere as my local nursery has never stocked it. I've always had cultivars of Fuchsia Magellanica which I understand is perennial in Florida (I'm in zone 6a where it's considered annual) and should survive the heat so long as it's sheltered during midday. I put mine where they get strong morning and afternoon light and they love life. They like peaty, rich soil so your average sandy Florida soil won't cut it. Edit: Quoted from the Clemson University Extension page about fuchsias: Generally, the orange- or red-flowered fuchsias are more heat-tolerant than the white or blue ones. The following are some of the most popular heat-tolerant fuchsias: ‘Constance,’ ‘Autumnale,’ ‘Daisy Bell,’ ‘Orange Drops,’ ‘Cardinal,’ ‘Gartenmeister Bonstedt,’ ‘Checkerboard,’ ‘Machu Picchu,’ ‘Billy Green,’ ‘First Love,’ ‘Santa Cruz,’ ‘Chang,’ ‘Countess of Aberdeen,’ ‘Swingtime,’ ‘Eternal Flame,’ ‘Sacramento Bells,’ ‘Winston Churchill,’ ‘Buttercup,’ ‘California,’ ‘Southgate,’ ‘Golden Gate’ and F. magellanica ‘Aurea’. For heat tolerance, consider cultivars of F. magellanica. Hybrids of F. triphylla (make up the Triphylla Group of fuchsias and include ‘Gartenmeister Bonstedt’) are another important group of heat-tolerant fuchsias. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Jun 10, 2016 |
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Jun 9, 2016 23:31
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Lichy posted:What's the best way to grow nice uniform grass without too much effort? Don't touch it and let it grow to maximum height.  Seriously though, preventing a patch of monocropped grass species from reverting into wild meadow takes a lot of work out of necessity, since you're fighting nature here. I find that mowing as high as possible helps the grass retain moisture and compete with other species in my lawn with little work. You probably don't want to see my lawn, though, as it's a mix of various grasses, timothy, plantain (in the compacted areas), ajuga, lemon balm, dutch and red clover, yarrow, wild carrot, dandelion, and I'm sure some others I forgot to mention.Plants in General: My yard is Thunderdome.
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Sep 12, 2016 17:41
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Plants move around all the time in reaction to (or in anticipation of) various stimuli like light, heat, cold, water, wind, other plants, chemical messages, predators, seasonal changes, etc.
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Sep 22, 2017 15:17
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Boris Galerkin posted:...I'm honestly blown away that they can reorient themselves to begin with so I dunno what to think any more. Not only this but some plants can maintain circadian rhythms even when they receive 24 hours of total daylight or total darkness, like we can. I was recently reading an interesting study about cabbage that still continued to carry out pest control functions and other cyclical metabolic processes even after being harvested from the plant. OSU_Matthew posted:Also, are those drip irrigation bags bad for trees? I wouldn't say they're "bad"; but after seeing them in action, I'm only convinced that they're a novel way to make someone $30 poorer. The primary reason I don't like them is that they promote the kind of laziness and neglect that leads to poor establishment. My understanding is that these bags are to be removed after they empty, so the ground and the base of the tree can get some air. The landscape company that maintains the grounds at work installed dozens of trees and had the bags around the base for weeks, filling them when empty. Some were the upright Treegator bags and others were the hemorrhoid pillow-looking ones. After the bags came off, many of the trees that didn't outright die predictably had fungal issues and insect damage where the bags were. It's been a couple years since, and many of the trees that had issues never recovered and still look like hell. I don't see a decisive advantage over proper mulching and a soaker hose/bucket with weep holes. The best fertilizer is of course a gardener's shadow and so forth.
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Sep 25, 2017 20:41
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listrada posted:This is a beautiful saying. I wish I cold take credit, but it's an old Chinese adage. Beachcomber posted:I am looking for something I can establish or buy established in a pot which can then be set outside. The plant will then spill out over the side of the pot or send runners down or somehow escape and establish itself in my terrible soil. Full sun, northern California. Ideally it will then cover the ground in a pleasing green color. One of my favorites is nasturtium. I wish I had a picture of the orange, red, and yellow-flowered nasturtium creeping and climbing the trellis (and my house/gutters!) in my own garden, but this is a common sight:  Around here (Ohio zone 6a), it's a quickly-growing annual ground cover and flowers profusely from spring well into fall. As a south- and central-american native, it's hardy in zones 9 - 11, so I'd imagine it'd thrive in your area and may even be hardy. It readily drapes out of boxes and baskets and will start climbing anything it can. Every part of this plant is edible and delicious and has a fresh, peppery taste like watercress. Apparently there are varieties with a bushier, mounding habit but I'm a sucker for the trailing ones.
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Sep 26, 2017 18:53
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Reformed Tomboy posted:Sweet! Here's mine. That makes me want to re-pot my jade that's been in "suspended animation" due to being in old, depleted soil in way too small of a pot. So small, in fact, that it only takes looking at it wrong while it's dry (all the time) for it to fall over. It's survived many trips onto the floor courtesy of my cats with minimal leaf loss, thanks to its strong, woody stems. Does anyone have a favorite potting mix for succulents they'd like to share? On-hand, I have finished compost, coconut coir, sphagnum moss, pine bark, builder's sand, perlite, and pea gravel and tend to mix my soils out of a combination of a few of these. I'd like to get a flush of new buds on old growth so it fills out like it was years ago.
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Oct 11, 2017 17:04
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That's a nice looking African violet! I don't have any, but it struck me for the first time how the habit is virtually identical to primrose, and in searching for relatives, bumped into Streptocarpus. Now I'm itching to buy a few.
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Oct 20, 2017 18:06
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kid sinister posted:Succulent/cacti mix, like most succulents. To be fair, mixes vary between manufacturers and it's more than a little likely that Miracle Gro Cactus and Palm mix is the first one might run into. It works okay but it's REALLY heavy on the peat. I used this stuff early on when I began collecting cacti and succulents but hated that it became totally hydrophobic and prone to shrinking when I let my plants dry out between waterings. I'm also not sold on the benefit of the synthetic fertilizer they add. In contrast, the cactus soil formulated by my local greenhouse has a lot of sand and perlite with proportionally less peat and organic matter and I like it a lot better.
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Nov 14, 2017 21:20
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Hirayuki posted:Speaking of Miracle-Gro: I picked up some of the easy-dumb liquid pump houseplant feed and gave it to all the plants on my kitchen windowsill. They all reacted well or not at all, but my mature and robust peace lily now seems to have some outer-ish leaves that are always drooping. At first I thought it just needed water, but these leaves didn't perk up. The leaves don't look overly yellow or dead, but maybe a little blah; can/should I just trim them off and leave the central "core" of leaves to flourish? What are the odds the Miracle-Gro did this? The odds are really good. Peace lilies grow in tropical rainforests and contrary to what some might think, the (deep) topsoil is actually very poor in nutrients between leeching from regular rainfall and ideal conditions for organic matter to rapidly break down; most of the nutrients in these soils are tied up in biomass. This is one of these reasons why you see plants evolve interesting strategies to make up the nutrient deficit, like predation. I'll bet you overfertilized your Spathiphyllum. If the leaves don't show visible signs of damage, I'd just flush the soil with distilled water until it's running free out the bottom and keep an eye on it. The leaves should perk back up; you'd be surprised with how much abuse these plants can take! I actually just brought in a Spathiphyllum I took outside to recover from absolute, chronic neglect.The poor thing had maybe 2 mature leaves left and a handful of tender new ones when I brought it out for the summer/fall. Protip: don't ever move a plant to a location where you're likely to forget it. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Nov 15, 2017 |
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Nov 15, 2017 21:04
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Boris Galerkin posted:I'm trying to kill a flies/gnats infestation before it gets even worse so I poured some apple cider vinegar into a glass and added a few drops of liquid dish soap to it. Set the glass right next to one of my plants that I've seen flies around over night and only one was killed while others are still flying around seemingly not interested at all. Did I use too much soap? Is my apple cider vinegar too acidic? Am I suppose to stir the mixture? Does it just take more time? I just opened up a lovely can of beer and poured out some into a bowl and dropped some soap in it too. I have no opened bottles of red wine to try but I might just buy some cheap poo poo later today. I've only ever seen the beer/cider remedy work on fruit flies. Try and figure out what you're dealing with or at least where they're coming from. Do they like to fly around right in your face? Probably fungus gnats.
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Jan 4, 2018 14:56
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You know what works wonders for fungus gnat control? Forgetting to water your houseplants for a week-and-a-half over and over again*. * Many plants will HATE you for this
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Jan 4, 2018 19:28
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fuzzy_logic posted:Don't plant bamboo or podocarpus whatever you do. They both spread like absolute weeds, require constant trimming forever, and are completely impossible to get rid of. Actually, clumping bamboo is an excellent choice for a fast-growing (2 - 3 year) privacy hedge that also blocks sound and wind, is edible, and provides excellent building material. The rhizome of clumping bamboo is U-shaped (pachymorph) and new culms form just next to the "mother" plant. This is a good illustration of the differences:  Depending on the variety, they only spread 2 - 12" per year and are less work to maintain than their running cousins.
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Jan 17, 2018 15:21
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You might have a little challenge finding just the right bamboo in a Texas climate, as they typically don't like hours of blazing sunlight and lots of heat and humidity. Still, there are so many varieties out there that there's probably something that would work for your site. Bambosa multiplex varieties, like the popular 'Silverstripe' are recommended for hot, humid locations. Here are a few more for mild climates. You can also shoot an email to TXBooGuru listed on the page of the Texas bamboo society (http://www.bamboocentral.net/) or contact any one of the many bamboo specialists in Texas for more targeted advice.
Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Jan 17, 2018 |
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Jan 17, 2018 15:55
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EagerSleeper posted:Wait, what? I only knew that the larger bamboo species have shoots that are edible, I never knew of this. This would change everything. Could you give me a species name please? Note that bamboo contains a potent cyanogenic compound, taxiphyllin, that must be boiled out in changes of water prior to eating. All of these clumping bamboo species are edible:
This is not an exhaustive list. See https://www.guaduabamboo.com/types/edible-bamboo-species for more, though I think I hit the clumping genera where I can find good supporting information for edibility. The Snoo posted:can you grow clumping or any other type of bamboo in a pot? Yes you can! Clumping bamboos are in my opinion more suitable because they're typically shorter and don't get rootbound nearly as fast as running bamboos, but both types can be successfully grown in containers. The size of the bamboo is related to the size of the rootball, so expect a container-grown bamboo to have thinner canes and less height than normal. Make sure the container has ample weight at the bottom or can't otherwise tip.
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Jan 17, 2018 22:43
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When is the best time to repot orchids? My gut tells me not to do it until after the flowers fade, when you'd normally cut the spike back. I have a cymbidium and a cattleya that are both straining at the sides of their nursery pots with the latter trailing air roots outside the pot. The pseudobulbs on the new growth of both orchids are swole, but no sign of flower spikes.
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Jan 31, 2018 21:13
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Boris Galerkin posted:I’m honestly surprised that it takes actual work to care for a cactus. Growing up in the desert those were just things that existed everywhere and never died. Where you deny a service provided by nature, you must do nature's work.
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Mar 15, 2018 19:36
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Boris Galerkin posted:What are some good vine like plants that I can hang indoors right in front of a south facing glass wall? I wanted to hang it up in the space between the glass and the curtains so it would get the full light of the sun and not shaded. And I wanted it to just grow downwards towards the ground. Heart-leafed philodendron and pothos. Granted they might try and grow upward anyway, they don't seem to mind regular re-training. It'll hang if you don't give it something to climb. Even though it lacks the specialized aerial roots of English ivy that glue it to surfaces it wants to ruin, philodendron don't give a gently caress as it stands against my wall and laughs at the ceiling. My wife joked that it'd continue to to scale the ceiling, leaning against whatever part of the texture it could find purchase. 
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Mar 16, 2018 21:05
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Lead out in cuffs posted:I thought pothos too, but I'm not sure that it would like full sun? Oh no you right; I didn't catch that. My suggestions are more for a "bright, indirect light" sort of situation.
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Mar 17, 2018 22:58
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Plant MONSTER. posted:How do we feel about Rex Begonias? I have two at home and they have always been some of my favourites. I’m thinking of starting a collection. I do not have them but want them in my life because of people posting them in this very thread.
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Mar 29, 2018 19:12
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Boris Galerkin posted:What is the plant on the right (with the blue mushroom) called? I have one of those and I can't figure it out. Looks like Haworthiopsis attenuata (zebra haworthia, how worthy!) I won't embarrass myself by attempting to guess the cultivar.
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Apr 20, 2018 14:14
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Oh! You just reminded me that I need to plant Spanish marigolds again. They were reliably self-seeding in my beds for about three years, but last year none returned. 
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Apr 26, 2018 19:00
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Ashex posted:I'm going to swap the trumpet vine for a bougainvillea Edit: never mind, presumably you were able to keep this thing caged on a balcony. On paper I love trumpet vine but its tenacity makes me wary of establishing new plantings. Then again I'm succeeding in keeping lemon mint and peppermint in check in my flowerbeds, so maybe I'm giving it a worse rep than it deserves. I'm partial to nasturtium as a blooming climber, but that's only because it's edible and I love the taste/look. Bushy varieties are available. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Apr 30, 2018 |
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Apr 30, 2018 18:45
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Hubis posted:If you care (and are in a cool-season turf area) I can make a big effort-post, but yeah shade is hard. I'd be interested in what you have to say about this if you don't mind indulging us. I've also been unsuccessful getting perennial grass to colonize the shadiest part of my back yard (under a big Norway maple). Some years back, I manually de-thatched my back yard as best I could, then re-seeded with a sun/shade lawn mix. Of course it looked pretty decent the first year before the annual ryegrass dies. Some season after that I dug a patio base, giving me about 12 yards of topsoil to work with, so I screened all that poo poo and graded the shadiest half of the lawn, then seeded with a shade mix. Again, it looked pretty good for a year and the next year, just grass clumps. It's been a few years since I've done anything proactive to encourage the lawn, and obviously plants don't just fill in between grass clumps like magic. I don't need a grass lawn necessarily. I kinda wonder how the ajuga colonizing my side yard would do if I introduced it to the back.
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May 2, 2018 21:51
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tadashi posted:The previous owner's solution to everything was to throw pinestraw on it, so I still have a a lot of that to either mulch up or allow to naturally fade away in many areas of the yard. I don't want to completely uncover the soil until I have at least half a plan. That does work as a kind of Ruth Stout method of weed control since it sounds like it's acting as a good mulch. I don't know how easily it'll naturally fade though, since pine needles acidify the soil and have a waxy coating that inhibits decomposition. As for [native] ground covers, maybe something like Partridgeberry, Heartleaf (evergreen), Straggler daisy, or Lanceleaf coreopsis would provide some cover and interest on that site. I'm not familiar with these myself, so you'll want to a little homework on how invasive they can be in your area/soil.
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May 15, 2018 17:51
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Anyone have any pepper growing experience they would like to share? My essential hot peppers are hungarian hot, jalapeno, habanero, and poblano; it's everything I need for salsas, fresh eating, pickling, and rellenos. I've been using a 12" spacing for all my peppers, but I think this year I think I'm going to give my poblanos and habaneros some more elbow room so they can boom shakalaka boom. Normally my habaneros only got to about 12" tall and my poblanos to around 24". I'm not sure what I've been doing differently; but the last couple years I've been getting 18 - 24" tall, super bushy habaneros and poblanos around 48" tall and half as wide. What I really want to do though is successfully overwinter my best plants to get an early start the following spring. I tried this last year and the poblano plants started to take really well to the transplant and were soon budding off the wood. Habaneros are supposedly tougher and didn't bud for me. They're really sensitive to drought until they can re-establish themselves in the soil and unfortunately I didn't water them enough so they died.
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May 16, 2018 22:05
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Bark mulch is a great way to import and/or attract new termites. I hope the lava rocks work out better. Edit: catmint contains the same insect repelling compound (nepetalactone) as catnip, though it's less potent. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 14:01 on May 17, 2018 |
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May 17, 2018 13:46
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13Pandora13 posted:Thanks! I don't know much about landscape cloth, will it still drain ok (since it's going close to the house)? Should I not put cloth down against the foundation for a few inches or is it okay? The cloth seemed to drain well so I don't think it matters how close it is to your foundation. I installed it about 6 or 7 years ago and pinned it right up against the foundation. Weeds didn't give two shits though and would constantly find a way to emerge right at the edge of the fabric. Granted I don't use weed killers of any sort, so YMMV. This year I actually removed all my landscape cloth for many reasons, chief of which I was tired of maintaining essentially two flowerbeds (one in the poor soil below the fabric and one in the rich composted wood chips on top). I didn't like the strata it created, or the fact that worms and other critters couldn't freely move from above to below; probably why the soil underneath was the same condition as when I put the fabric in. I also didn't like that it seemed to select for only the most aggressive weeds. For me it was Aegopodium, which grew these incredibly dense root mats in the soil immediately beneath the fabric, which became a beachhead for it to grow through the fabric wherever it pleased (everywhere). Now you're making me wonder if the catmint I have is a dwarf variety, because it's not weedy at all. It forms these nice full mounds a little over a foot high and two or three across and hasn't moved or spread (unlike my tigereye sumac). I've had just two plants for at least 5 years, but this year when I raked out all the bark nuggets and ripped out the landscape fabric, there were some woody roots in the compost on top of the fabric that had new leaves emerging. I gave the baby catmint clones a real home in the soil and so far so good. I think my favorite thing about catmint is the staying power; even in zone 6a Ohio, it blooms strong for drat near 3 seasons. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 21:26 on May 17, 2018 |
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May 17, 2018 21:21
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I wouldn't put woodchips with a known termite infestation near the base of the house. Maybe they'll be happy in the woodchips, maybe they'll be happier in your home but that's not something I'd be comfortable rolling the dice on. If it were me, I'd use them as a bulking agent in my compost. If you have no interest in compost, I'd just bury them in garden beds that didn't border my house or in planters and pots to help drainage. You could probably even use them for mushroom farming, though I've never undertaken such a project.
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May 18, 2018 14:20
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WrenP-Complete posted:Just checking that this white flowered spiky boy on our rhododendron is an invasive pest, and I should cut him down... Do you like berries? My money is on blackberry here. People consider blackberries invasive but they're not hard to control if you get to them before they go bonkers. I was controlling blackberries growing up against my neighbor's chain link fence in my back yard for years. Once I built a privacy fence, the canes were now between the two fences, so I started letting them go a few years ago to keep trespassers out. A couple years ago was the first real flush of berries and ever since then I've just been letting them go wild, but it's getting to the point now where they'll need thinned and cut to keep things under control. Wild blackberries have some really amazing, tart flavor to them that you don't get in the huge, insipid commercially-grown ones.
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May 25, 2018 18:41
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His Divine Shadow posted:What a stupid waste of water. Gonna get some rain barrels. I've been thinking the same thing. There's always such a huge difference in development after a good rain versus a good soak with the muni water. My indoor plants would thank me too. I could also be capturing our A/C condensate to those ends 
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May 28, 2018 14:22
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His Divine Shadow posted:It feels wrong to me to refer to bumblebees as bees, when I say bees I think of the small honey bee type. Maybe it's the language because they don't sound alike at all in my native language (swedish). That's not at all unusual for a word to prescribe some meaning that may be misleading in some way. Just consider these things that aren't berries: raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, mulberries And these things that are berries: bananas, watermelon, eggplant, peppers
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May 30, 2018 17:29
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Nosre posted:
It's a regular ol' fashioned daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) which isn't actually a lily. Also known as a tawny lily, ditch lily, or "tiger lily" (to intentionally confuse it with the actual tiger lily, Lilium lancifolium). The blooms only last for a day or two before shriveling up and falling to the ground. Everything on a daylily is edible, from the tubers that resemble little fingerling potatoes to the blooms; I'm gonna fry up a good helping of both this year. They provide excellent erosion control. Daylily HATES competition and has no trouble displacing most natives and grasses. They're extremely hardy; I have daylily plants I dug up in February happily living soil-free in a neglected corner of my yard. Someday they'll probably break in and strangle my houseplants in retaliation. They're dead easy to divide and propogate; the tubers can be separated and planted individually, but for me this is too much work. Just chop the things up with a shovel and throw em somewhere you want lilies.
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Jun 4, 2018 21:59
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Thanks for the reminder EagerSleeper, I forgot to mention that they're not that hard to eradicate. They pull reasonably cleanly from loose soil or you can cut/break them off at the ground and mulch the area, keeping new growth under check with more of the same. I've got a steep slope on one side of my property where I planted a few dozen daylily plants maybe 5 years back. My motive was to quickly colonize the slope with something that would smother the grass and hold the earth back, which it was great at; but now I'd rather succeed the plot with natives to the same end plus a big boost to pollinators and other beneficials. Even Asiatic lilies aren't too toxic to dogs; they'll cause some digestive upset and maybe they'll yak or get the scoots. However, they (Lilium and Hemerocallis species) are outrageously bad for feline kidneys and even the water from a vase can be fatal. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Jun 5, 2018 |
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Jun 5, 2018 14:41
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