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I use ArmourAll auto protectant to clean my cymbals, but that is because they are entirely rubber and plastic. Cleaning an e-kit is easy. I'm confused about the cleaning (metal) cymbals thing making them sound different idea. Does it reset the sound back to how they were when the came out of the factory or does it provide previously unheard overtones due to the tarnish being removed? Or is it just a brighter sound like a fresh set of guitar strings? On the topic of practice away from the kit, I am always counting note subdivisions when I walk to and from work. Get into a good stride and your steps provide a nice metronome with which to count against, you can even tap out rudiments on your thighs or pockets to get some hand action as well. This is great for locking in the feel of different subdivisions as well as keeping the running count in your head while you focus on other things.
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May 3, 2013 14:01
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Taliaquin posted:And does anyone know of any exercises for strengthening snare hits? My right is, allegedly, good, but my left is still noticeably softer. Funnily, the opposite happens when I do a roll. Just use your left hand as often as possible and the hits will strengthen up naturally over time. When doing rudiments lead with the left hand as well as the right, even practice playing open-handed so the left hand gets a greater workout on the cymbals in any given song. And as already stated go to youtube and watch as many drum videos as you can handle, if you watch a dozen quick tutorials and only pick up one thing from each then that's still a dozen extra things that you've learned about playing the instrument. Also have a look into the Moeller method, it teaches specific motions and techniques that results in a very relaxed but powerful playing style, and is less stressful on the body resulting in less injuries developing over time.
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Jul 10, 2013 17:03
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Yeah they work fine, listen to Nirvana unplugged for a good example. You will have to play pretty lightly so as to not completely overwhelm his guitar, if he plays through an amplifier you will have a bit more elbow room but you will still have to show serious restraint. An electronic kit will be ideal because you can pick drums sounds to complement an acoustic guitar nicely, as well as easily adjusting the volume to match his levels.
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Aug 19, 2013 05:37
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WickedHate posted:Hm, that's disappointing, but we'll work it out. We're still months away from when I even get the money to buy our instruments anyway, so we have a lot of time to work on everything before then. Any electric kit in the $400 range will be pretty rubbish, but that Alesis will probably be on top of the heap. However, as you have yet to lay stick to skin in any form, it will likely be years before you can determine what exactly is rubbish about it and what needs to be improved so as not to hold you back. If you really are serious then go out and buy a practice pad and some sticks and learn basic rudiments so that when the day comes you already have an idea what do do with your hands, instead of participating in a massively demoralising engagement of two people not knowing a single thing about their instruments. Also if either of you have an iPad or iPhone then buy a copy of Garageband and use the virtual guitars and drums to start making songs right now, again this will benefit both of you massively if you have prior knowledge before approaching a guitar or drum set. If you don't have an apple device then find something else that makes noise and start making songs with that instead. Don't just sit idle in the time between now and when you get the money together for your equipment, there are a million things you could learn and do between now and then that will accelerate your progress as a band dramatically when you finally start playing together. Remember that "Musician" is not just another term for "Instrument Owner", there's nothing stopping your band from building and recording songs and demos straight away that you can flesh out later on when you get the right gear.
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Aug 19, 2013 14:29
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organburner posted:Thanks, my buddy might be able to hook me up with a place to play on weekends if the stars align, so I might actually get access to an acoustic set. Crossing my fingers here. You won't have any issues with electronic kits keeping up with your playing, even the shittiest cheap kits are good and spiting out a sound the instant you hit the pads. Some of the lower end models have limited polyphony (which is still in the range of 64 or so events) so if you hit a cymbal and then do massively quick snare roll you might find the cymbal noise ends prematurely as the unit fills it's buffer with snare hits, but this will only appear on certain cheap kits in limited scenarios. Anything made by Roland or Yamaha won't have this sort of fault.
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Aug 29, 2013 05:33
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Yeah definitely get a practice pad, personally I don't use a stand though, I just have the pad sitting on my lap and I tap away while watching TV or something. I use a moongel pad so it is very quiet, but prior to that I glued a square of polyurethane foam to a normal practice pad, this gave the benefit of silent practice but also having multiple different playing surfaces is really beneficial because on a standard drum kit no two drums or cymbals will have the same physical response. The foam/moongel makes the wrists work a lot more because the sticks lose almost all their rebound and gives great control especially when doing doubles on the larger drums with their inherently lower bounce. I only play an acoustic kit when I take my lessons but I have no trouble doing rolls and ruffs on even the biggest floor toms due to the time I have spent with these surfaces. http://www.drumlessons.com/drum-lessons/ is a good resource for drum theory and rudiment tutorials, plenty of stuff you can do with just a pad. You can also buy a Hansenfutz which is essentially the foot version of a practice pad, I had a couple but eventually sold them off because they kept slipping forwards on my floorboards and plus the feel wasn't really that great as it was just resistance; a large block of soft foam under your foot would probably achieve much the same results. Since I had a spare kick pedal after upgrading to doublekicks I turned it into a silent practice pedal by removing the beater and rim clamp and putting a small strip of foam between the footboard and base to prevent the clacking of metal on metal, this works much better and feels practically the same as a normal kick pedal and integrates nicely into my silent practice setup.
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Aug 30, 2013 09:29
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Four minutes isn't exactly a marathon length to be doing a single rudiment though, I have seen mentioned plenty of times that for effective muscle memory retention you need to practice something for at least 3 minutes straight otherwise you won't get the full benefits. Sometimes when watching a show or something I will do a specific rudiment without tempo or dynamics change for the full 40 minutes, obviously not at a rate that causes pain or discomfort, and this has given me a great foundation to apply it musically around the kit because I can bust out double or diddles or whatever at any point without conscious thought. I subscribe to the "if it hurts, stop doing it" school of practice, otherwise everything is fair game.
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Sep 11, 2013 05:45
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One benefit of learning to play with hats on the left will be that it's easier to play someone elses kit, whether it be at lessons or shared equipment at a gig, without doing major adjustments before you sit down.
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Oct 14, 2013 04:26
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I am almost exclusively an electric drummer, the only time I use an acoustic kit is during lessons or when I kick my drummer off his set during band rehearsal, and I don't have any troubles adapting to the larger sizes and differing tensions inherent of acoustic drums. I do a lot of work on a practice pad though, and use either a moongel pad or foam block on a regular practice pad to take away almost all the rebound for a greater wrist workout, and this has benefited me greatly when playing on the larger floor toms as I can pull off doubles and diddles without the looser skin throwing me out. I imagine if I didn't have that low-rebound practice it would be a bit more difficult to adapt, but not to the point of impossibility. Almost every skill learnable on an electric kit will transfer across to the acoustic so don't worry about it holding you back too much. Things you will have to look out for are the aforementioned tension changes between drums, and also where you hit the pad might be an issue as on an electric the sound is not really changed that much by where you strike on the pads surface, but on a proper snare you try and hit it dead center to get the most volume and consistent tone from it, so as long as you aim for the general centre of the pads on your e-kit you should be fine. It's not impossible to learn without lessons, there are massive amounts of tutorials and videos available online to cover every area, but it is a really good ideas to get one or two lessons pretty early on just to make sure your posture and stick grip are OK, as well as seat height and drum positioning etc, otherwise you can form some pretty bad habits that are hard to break out of. I started taking lessons before I got my kit just to make sure it was something I was passionate enough about to stick to (it totally was), so I was guided through not poking my elbows out, not bunching up to the kit, not having a death-grip on my sticks etc, as opposed to the drummer in my band who had been playing for a few years before he started taking lessons so he has kept some weird habits (from my perspective at least) like only really using his thumb and index to hold the sticks (those other fingers are great for support and speed), sitting with his knees higher than his pelvis (bad for your whole body over time) and having poor dynamic control because he had basically been banging away at full volume 100% of the time. He can still drum well and is stronger than me in some areas (volume, for one) but these habits are holding him back a little and he doesn't seem to be in any hurry to change. Whatever works for him I guess, but I can tell he gets a little shirty when I correct him as he sees me primarily as a guitarist. I pay $25AU for a half-hour lesson once a week, which is pretty fair from a service based perspective, especially considering I can bill out $110 per hour in my job. The lessons usually run on longer than 30 mins as my teacher and I have become pretty good friends over the years and we tend to talk a lot, but I can imagine other teachers being more rigid in their timeline. There have been times when I have considered stopping taking lessons due to the amount of online material available to me, but it's good to have someone to discuss drums with in an in-depth manner, and there's always directions he can take me that I never would have thought to investigate myself (Jazz, linear, funk etc) but have tangible benefits on my rock and punk playing. I strongly recommend at least 1 or 2 lessons as soon as you can just to make sure your sticking and everything is on track, then you can go off on your own for however long you need to before starting them up regularly. Frequency of them is really up to how you treat the material provided in the lessons, a weekly one will be no good to you if you don't get a chance to work on the information he gives you before the next lesson comes up, and you will just end up with a folder of half-learned, mostly forgotten tutorials and a lighter wallet. Once per fortnight is probably a good compromise as it will let you become pretty familiar with one lesson before moving on to the next. Once per month would probably be useful for checking up on your self-taught progress instead of active teaching, as by the time the next lesson rolls around both you and the teacher will likely have forgotten what you were doing last month. As Kodo mentioned, the thump through the floor can carry pretty far depending on the construction of your apartment, but there are risers you can build pretty cheaply with a couple of MDF panels and some tennis balls that can absorb almost all the vibrations, and most of the other sounds that emanate from an e-kit being whacked aren't loud enough to travel past a wall or closed door.
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Nov 5, 2013 08:31
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Yeah use the bounce to your advantage, you'll get much faster overall speeds and it will be less stressful on the wrists. If you make a nice pivot with your thumb and forefinger then you can use the remaining fingers on the hand to add a little pressure to the stick sending it into the next bounce, you can repeat this indefinitely and get solid, long rolls with very little of your own energy expended. After a while it feels like not so much striking the stick but merely guiding it through it's natural parabolic path into the heads of the drums. Doublestrokes are basically a quick doubletap using bounce, a cool thing to do once you have them down is to then stagger the starting point of each double so instead of getting a normal RR LL you start the second double straight after the first and have them overlap, so it becomes RLRL like a normal single stroke roll but using the bounce and speed of the doubles, lets you get fiercely fast ruffs and single stroke technique. Works for feet as well. Don't exclusively rely on bounce though especially if you do a lot of practice pad work, you can train yourself to become used to a specific rebound and this will cause issues when you move to other surfaces because the stick will be responding differently to what your hands expect. I have bits of foam and moongel on my practice pad to vary up the bounce of the playing surface, these areas absorb almost all the bounce so they are great for working on your wrists specifically, but if you practice your bouncing technique on these heavily reduced bouncing surfaces you will find your overall control goes up significantly as you are able to manage the bounce in pretty much the worst-case rebound scenario. This is great for getting solid doublestroke technique on larger drums like the floor tom. I use an electric kit at home so the surfaces are all basically identical but I have no problem handling the looser skins on an acoustic drum kit do to my bounceless practicing.
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Jan 5, 2014 04:11
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There's the D-beat which underpins a lot of hardcore punk. This guy.
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Mar 16, 2014 03:27
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There was some videogame during the height of the guitar hero/rockband frenzy that used a similar concept, waving sticks above sensors without any physical contact, and it was received as poorly as could be expected. I recall there might have also been something in Wii music that did similar stuff with a couple of wiimotes? I remember messing with it prior to owning any sort of kit and it was very limited, and then I spent some time loving around playing the guitar hero drum set through midi, and then I bought a roland and never looked back. But yeah It'd just be a novelty, I'd prefer hitting my thighs or something at least rather than giving myself accelerated wrist-whiplash by constantly reversing the direction of the stick and absorbing every ounce of stick energy into my precious bones and ligaments. edit: It was Power Gig. The guitar part was just as lovely as the drums. Gym Leader Barack fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Mar 18, 2014 |
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Mar 18, 2014 11:43
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Any solid rug, mat or other floor covering will do. Check out hardware stores that sell outdoor mats, maybe even visit some carpet stores to see if they have any old offcuts they want to get rid of. Some of the proper drum rugs have superior grip on their bases which is better suited to polished floors than plain carpet is, but a rubber-backed outdoor mat should work just as well.
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Apr 2, 2014 12:41
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"Pass the goddamn butter" was how my drum teacher got me to learn 3/4 stuff. "Nice cup of tea" works for 3/2. It's hard to really describe over text but just say it as you are doing the pattern and you'll get it. Emphasise as "PASS the GODdamn BUTter"
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Apr 8, 2014 23:47
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Yeah I want to know about the sticks as well, when I used to use a thinner 5a I got all sorts of weird pains in my fingers. I noticed a lot more vibration in the wood as I was hitting the kit, I guess the thinner diameter of the stick allows more flex of the wood and a stronger transfer of energy from one end of the stick to another, but it feels similar to holding a lawnmower handle or something similarly buzzy for a while. Instead of my fingers absorbing the energy of a single hit they are having to deal with a buzz of several short sharp hits for every strike. I moved to a thicker 2B stick after that which noticeably lessened the vibrations and made my hands feel much better, but now I am back down to a thinner and lighter stick but they are the metal and plastic Ahead sticks an there is practically no vibration transfer from tip to handle and are very smooth to play. I put a double layer of grip tape on also for added comfort and this brought the thickness back up closer to the 2B so they don't feel tiny in my hands.
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May 10, 2014 06:27
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I've been slack as hell on the drum kit recently because I've been doing a lot more singing and guitar practice as well as rock and electronic music production so it's tricky to find the time to fit in a lot of drums. I've taken to spending 20 mins per day on the kit as soon as I get home from work and using this drum time as a warmup before a workout, and as prettymuch all I practice is punk beats between 140 and 180 BPM this gets me warm really effectively. I spend half the time just working on accuracy at a slow tempo then gradually increase until I go full speed for the last 10 mins. About once a week I spend half hour or so on the practice pad while watching our nightly episode of whatever series we are binging through to get some rudimental work in, but that timeslot has been largely overtaken by scalar and other technique excercises on guitar and bass. At this point I'm happy to just become really good at a handful of drum aspects as opposed to being a swiss army knife of drum skills, and slowing down the punk stuff allows me to cover the majority of rock drumming anyway. Edit: I stopped going to drum lessons at the beginning of this year because I felt I wasn't taking away $25 worth of instruction every week, and the internet has an answer to prettymuch any drum question I could ever have.
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Jul 25, 2014 05:46
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I have a TD-9 and totally agree that mesh pads are the way to go, rubber ones just feel like a practice pad and are fairly loud in themselves. I do miss the punch in the chest of an actual snare drum but having the ability to play drums at midnight far outweighs the missing feeling. A great thing about e-drums is that you can actually hear them clearly while playing, not filtered through a set of cans or earplugs unless you are direct monitoring through a bunch of mics. Being able to change the tone of the kit completely at the push of a button is great for inspiration, the different sounds can send you in a completely different direction. I'll probably get an acoustic kit later on when I can build a proper soundproofed drum room but I'll always own an e-kit for the flexibility and ease of use in recording. The only part of my TD-9 that sticks out as "not a drum kit" while playing is the hi-hat because I just have the static hat cymbal and detached pedal, but a lot of the better models have a moving had on a proper hat stand if that worries you. it's still fine when playing, but it is a bit different to an acoustic kit.
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Jul 29, 2014 05:27
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The CY-12R on my kit is 3 zone so you can play bell, centre and edge the same as you would on a normal ride. Cymbals that say 2 zone give you centre and edge and will be used for most crashes and hats, and only the cheapest of the cheap kits have single zone cymbals or pads. All of the cymbals are chokeable when you pinch them at the front, the motion is almost identical to a regular cymbal choke, I think this is pretty standard on most mid to high range cymbals. Every e-kit brain I have seen has an AUX pass through so connecting your phone or macbook won't be a problem, and a lot even have the ability to play wav and mp3s from the unit itself. I think some of the newer ones can even do on the fly time-stretching but mine can't, I had to convert the files into various speeds before copying to the usb stick. Yamaha kits are worth checking out, when it comes to quality e-drums the market is dominated by them and Roland. Some Yamaha pads don't use mesh and have a textured silicone surface which is meant to be pretty close to the feel of a real skin but I have not used one before so can't confirm this. The standard rubber ones on the lower end kits aren't terrible, they have a fair amount of give so it's unlikely you will hurt yourself but they do feel a lot more like a practice pad than a snare so it can be distracting, and they can make a loud thwock noise when hit that can sometimes carry between rooms. Mesh ones still make an audible noise but it doesn't really carry that far. The cymbals are a lot less forgiving in their give but are still fine to play on for hours on end, they can't be any worse than their metal counterparts.
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Jul 29, 2014 14:38
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I think it could be sample rate differences in the wav files, like if you recorded the drums initially in 44.1khz and then the other stuff in a 48khz session the drums will gradually desync with the other tracks.
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Feb 18, 2015 03:54
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Abu Dave posted:I'm sorry if this has been asked a million times, but is there a relative cheapish e-drum set you guys reccomend? I'm just looking for something to make basic beats to compose music to, as my brain is too dumb to figure out a drum kit thing but I can play actual drums. Anything low end made by Roland or Yamaha will be fine for what you want to do. There are a thousand brands of cheap chinese edrums and they'll still work ok for midi stuff but I haven't yet seen one that is at all appealing to play and are unlikely to last as long as the better brands
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May 19, 2015 05:31
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Have a browse through an electronic genre guide like this one, and take note of the drum patterns used in styles you like. A lot of music can be categorised fairly broadly just by the type of beat used, there are fairly solid genre structures in place and provide a decent map of what beats generally go where. Doesn't matter what sort of music as really there's only a limited amount of places you can position a drum hit within a bar so a lot of basic patterns are used repeatedly across all types of songs. In music within a specific genre heading, as the tempo and main beat placement can be largely defined already, it becomes more about the tone and texture of your drum sounds instead of distinct patterns to differentiate the songs. If you have a target in mind like pop then start at the house section and make a bunch of tracks with a 4/4 kick, snare on the 2 and 4, hats on the eighths with accents on the upbeats and add cymbals/toms for flavour as the song dictates, then throw in a roll every 4 bars to break it up. A huge amount of charting tracks are backed by a beat like this and you could throw a sidechained compressor on some of your symphonic instruments to really get some pumping going like in almost everything on the radio at the moment. Steal the common verse chorus verse chorus bridge chorus chorus arrangement and just throw some songs together and you'll soon get a feel for what sounds work together and how to sit drums in a mix, and then steal the arrangement wholesale from some songs you like and put them in your tracks and just keep exploring. Steal everything, get better at making music, then keep stealing because gently caress it that's just how things are. An easy shortcut would be checking if some songs you like have guitar pro or powertab files available on ultimateguitar, often (sometimes) there will be competent drum transcription, export the midi into your DAW and then chop out bits you like and build your own drum patterns. You could rearrange any song by cutting it into 2 bar sections and shuffling them around to make your own music, perfectly legit way of building midi drum tracks.
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Jun 25, 2015 15:10
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Duke Chin posted:Quick note: if your kick trigger has a mesh head (like roland TD-20 et al) make sure you use the plastic/rubber side of the beater and not the felt side. This also applies to rubber heads, I ate through the cover of my KD-8 after a year or so of using a felt beater. The KD-8 was OK with double-kick (pearl eliminators) but I had to muck with the sensitivity a bit as the sensor is in the middle and with two beaters they strike on either side. The KD-9 I replaced it with is much better and is designed to handle two kick pedals.
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Sep 9, 2015 05:52
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Duo posted:About a year ago I picked up an Alesis DM10 edrum kit to learn drumming. I've mostly been a guitar player for about 14 years now but for the longest time I've had an interest in learning some basic drums, and just wanting to play around on a kit in general. I've been having a blast with the kit even though its finicky with crosstalk. Lately I've been feeling like I'm getting to the point where I may be able to actually jam with people, or at least record for myself. I've started to kind of record sequences and play them back through my guitar pedal while I jam along, which feels really awesome when I get it down. I don't think there's any mental preparation you can really do, it's all about the fine motor control when it comes to dynamics on an acoustic kit. If noise isn't a concern you could get a cheap snare drum (and a set of muffs) and just bash it around, get your hands used to the snap of a drum skin and how the sticks react rebounding off the surface. I wouldn't adopt any methods like the arcing cymbal hit, my cymbal technique remains the same on my roland TD-9 as it does on any acoustic kit I have tried, you might end up learning bad habits that you need to unlearn when on a real kit. Try and turn your sensitivity on the kit down a fair way, this should help with crosstalk and also force you hit a lot harder for the hard hits, softer for the soft hits etc to mimic the response of a real kit. My friend plays acoustic drums primarily and when he sits at my kit he softens his whole technique and just taps everything, despite my protests to just beat the poo poo out of it as that is literally what an e-kit is designed to have done to it. There will always be a few technique adjustments needed when moving between acoustic and digital (usually movement based as acoustic kits often have larger spacing between drums) but by and large they should be treated as the same instrument and played as such. If you have any music shops that give drum lessons you should check to see if you can give them a few bucks to use one of their student kits for a while every now and then, or even sign up for lessons and you might get that privilege included in the price (my lessons gave me 30 mins free time on an unused kit).
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Oct 13, 2015 09:18
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henpod posted:So I was watching some Youtube poo poo and a preroll was advertising Aerodrums. There was some rock band type game that came out a few years back with drums like this that were generally regarded as terrible due to lack of physical response. This seems more fully featured but you still don't connect the sticks to anything while playing so half of your technique is immediately useless (quick doubles would be hell on the wrist without bounce back) and you won't be able to do any serious development on your playing without that rebound being present. At best you can maybe maintain your timing and some limb independence but it's closer to a novelty than an expressive instrument. Personally I'd prefer a nice multi surface practice pad if I couldn't have a kit at home, I wouldn't even consider areodrums as an option.
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Dec 17, 2015 22:04
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Vino posted:'lo drumming goons. I just bought a nice new Roland electronic set and I'm playing it through headphones right now but I'd like to get some speakers for it. They don't have to be loud or do anything but play things at a reasonable level in my home. Any suggestions on what type of speaker is most appropriate? Powered cabinet/monitor/home theater system/one of those fender suitcase things? I used a set of Logitech 2.1 computer speakers pretty successfully, can't remember the specific model but it was one of their mid range sets but it worked really well, the speakers were small enough to mount on guitar stands around the kit and the sub gave enough oomph for a solid kick drum. I ended up going back to headphones after a while, you always have the thwack of the drum pads interfering with the sound from the speakers at lower volumes but it's a lot of fun when getting loud. I use a set of custom IEMs now which block out almost all external sound so I just hear the drum sounds and no pad noise.
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Jun 5, 2016 02:09
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s.i.r.e. posted:Hey guys, I recently managed to snag a Roland TD-9SX and I'm wondering if it's possible to add different kits to the brain? Or even connect the unit to my computer and play through some software to get different sounds? I know nothing about drums or electric drums so I'm probably asking the obvious, but I have no clue where to look or what's a good product. You can't upload new sounds to the TD-9 brain but the samples that are there can be heavily modified with the internal effects to sound fairly different, there's a company called V-Expressions that sell packs of modified kits to suit most Roland models. I bought the toolbox and I think one other pack for my TD-9 and they sound pretty good, better in some ways than the stock sounds but I think both have their place in the unit. There's also the V2 firmware upgrade for the TD-9 that allows MP3 playback, adds some more backing tracks and modifies a bunch of the factory kits, much better than the V1 kits in my opinion. Here's a link to the V2 upgrade if yours isn't there already Connecting to a computer is easy enough, you can use either the midi out port or midi over USB to connect to the computer and into something like addictive drums or superior drummer and have as many sounds as you like. Have to be conscious of latency when doing this though, even a 50ms delay can really throw off your timing when the sounds are coming a split second after the stick hits. It can also be difficult to get the hat pedal to work correctly in this setup, I haven't tried if for a couple of years now but I wasn't able to get the hat close to work, it would play open or closed fine but I couldn't close and open cymbal while it was playing, might just be a limitation of the hardware.
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Jun 25, 2016 03:39
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It's been a while since I did it, found these instructions somewhere online:somewehere online posted:UPDATE
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Jun 26, 2016 11:22
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Just tried it on my TD9, held mute and setup with one hand, pressed power with the other and it booted up into the firmware section OK. It was second or two after pressing the power button that it sprang into life, maybe hold the power button down slightly longer?
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Jun 27, 2016 02:27
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s.i.r.e. posted:Just gave it a shot, held Mute and Set-up and then held the Power button for at least 20 seconds. Never turned on. I'm out of ideas, had a trawl around the vdrums forums but couldn't find anyone else with similar issues. Only thing I can think of is either the mute or setup button being faulty, or the rubber button caps being installed in incorrect positions so mute is actually song or whatever. It's possible the brain is already at V2, easiest way to check is if your kits only go up to 50 it's V1 and if it's 99 then V2. Should still go into that upgrade mode though.
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Jun 30, 2016 05:37
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I tried mine without the USB key inserted and yeah it doesn't power on at all with those buttons held. My USB drive is formatted as FAT32 and labelled as ROLAND, I can't remember if I used the TD9 or a computer to format the drive initially. It's only 4gb as well, not sure if the brain has issues seeing large capacity USB. Does your drive read fine when playing back WAV files or backing up the settings? Gym Leader Barack fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jul 2, 2016 |
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Jul 2, 2016 07:07
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I have a vague memory of the unit needing a smaller drive, if you can track down a smaller key it'd be well worth a shot. Vexpressions are much easier, just restoring from a backup file on the usb, but make sure to back up the current kits otherwise you'll lose any setting changes you've made. I used a big set of audio technica AT-900 over ear headphones for a while, they work well enough but you can always hear the thwack of the pads alongside the kit sounds, same with any speaker setup if you don't have it loud enough. For a while I used a set of logitech 2.1 computer speakers and it was pretty good but the thwack was still present. Now I use a set of DIY custom-molded in-ear headphones, I can stand next to an acoustic drumkit at full tilt while wearing these unplugged and it's very comfortable, they are awesome at blocking external sound so the thwacks don't stand a chance and I just hear the kit as intended. A set of in ear headphones with a set of drum cans over the top does a similar job.
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Jul 5, 2016 05:35
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Springfield Fatts posted:Thanks for all the input guys, I grabbed some Vic Firth 5As and I now look forward to annoying the hell out of my wife with my off-tempo caveman bashing. See if you can find a moon-gel practice pad, removes almost all of the stick noise (and also the rebound to it makes your wrists work more), I can do rudiments on the couch right next to my wife and she doesn't care. Alternately, glue a block of foam (the couch cushion type) to somewhere on your existing pad for a similar benefit. I like having multiple surfaces to practice on, prevents you getting too used too the rebound of your pad (pad hands are A Thing), and having a low bounce surface prepares you for diddles and doubles on the larger toms.
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Jul 28, 2016 05:24
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Is that for isolation or a stage riser?
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Aug 14, 2016 03:10
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Cool, I built something similar but instead of buckets there are a few dozen halved tennisballs. Stops any stomping noise going through my wooden floors into adjoining rooms. edit: image isn't embedding on my end for whatever reason, pic is here https://imgur.com/a/M9Ufv Gym Leader Barack fucked around with this message at 11:19 on Aug 14, 2016 |
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Aug 14, 2016 11:17
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Double Bass posted:Does anyone have any experience using direct drive pedals that aren't Axis? I'm using Mapex Raptors and they suck hard. I'm used to the feel of direct drives now but I really don't want to shell out $600+ for Axis. A couple of my friends have the Pearl Demon Drives and see no need to upgrade further. They seem great from the limited access Ive had with them.
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Dec 14, 2016 13:32
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Nebraska Tim posted:Any recommendations on double bass pedals for under 200? I've got a set of DW 7000s in my sights for $150 used, but I have no idea what I'm doing. I have pearl eliminators and they are the best, I've stuck to the blue cams but the others offer different responses so it's pretty likely you'll find something you like, they should be close to the price you want to pay
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Dec 17, 2016 08:25
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Nebraska Tim posted:Still getting used to having rubber grips, but these were a good buy. Thanks the advice! The little dots? I think they are removable if you unscrew the black plate.
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Dec 26, 2016 13:15
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AlphaDog posted:I play bass and a little guitar and I've been thinking about learning drums for a few years, but space and noise have been an issue. Not like I like in an apartment, but I don't have much more space for music gear and my wife's 1-2 rooms away at all times, so an actual drum set has always been out of the question. About 3 years ago my brother in law got a cheapy e-drum kit (like, the cheapest one in the shop, with no idea what he was doing) and it looked and sounded pretty bad. E-drums are great to learn on, the capacity for silent midnight practice outweighs whatever negatives the kits generally have. There are some concessions that have to be made in regard to playability and response (rubber vs steel etc) but a decent e-kit can feel just as nice to play as an acoustic set, and the flexibility to change the sound of the whole kit at the touch of a button opens up a huge amount of kit experimentation that previously required buying a ton of drums or spending weeks in the drum shops switching out different parts. Once I get the space I am totally going to get a sick acoustic kit for sure but my e-drums have done me well for the past 8 years and still play like they did on day one. The TD-1KV would be ok for a while but you would probably outgrow it fairly soon if you took more of an interest in drums, probably the worst part of that kit would be the fake kick pedal, it won't feel or respond anything like a real kick drum so whatever foot technique you develop here will need modification if you upgrade to an acoustic kit later on. Also the lack of adjustment with the drum positioning could inhibit your learning, you might be more comfortable with a nice wide layout but would never know because your kit forces you to play in such a narrow arc. Mesh heads are definitely superior (kick drums can be either), the rubber ones have a different response, not terrible but feels more like a practice pad than a drum and quite a lot louder than mesh. For your money you would be much better shopping second hand, check ebay/craigslist/gumtree and you could probably find one of the older upper-mid-range kits like the TD-9 with full mesh pads and a proper kick pedal for less cash than the TD-1KV. Most Roland stuff made since 2008 or so is still fairly relevant compared to today's edrum market, will be missing a few features but still sound and play great.
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Jan 14, 2017 13:09
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AlphaDog posted:My use for this thing would be "learn drums, hopefully eventually record as midi into cubase to go along with my adequate bass and subpar guitar playing". I'm not intending to record an album and try to sell it or anything, I just like making music and I'd like being able to do all the music "by hand" instead of entering drums into cubase and messing around with Addictive Drums and trying to get it to sound right with no firsthand idea about how an actual drum kit is played. I mean, trying to make, say, a bassline by clicking on the piano roll and moving sliders works, but it doesn't sound human and if you didn't play bass it's likely that what you created would sound weird, and I'm guessing it's the same with drums. I'm in Vic as well, I've seen kits for that much on ebay but you probably need to watch for a while before another one appears at that price level. That gumtree one isn't a ripoff really, I paid about $4k all up for my setup which is almost exactly what's listed there so I can see why they would list it for that much. Even if you found the TD9 with only one mesh pad it would still be almost as good and you can buy more drums later if you need. TD-4 is also a good kit, has a bit more educational stuff than the td-9 and decent enough inbuilt sounds, but if you are recording then really midi is the way to go if only for ease of mixing. The most obvious thing to look out for would probably be damage to the playing surface of the drums. Mesh can be replaced easily but damage to the rubber might be permanent. The connections between the drums and brain is something that could be damaged without being obvious, I had my hi-hat too loose which caused it to wobble a lot, this wore a small groove in the cable connector and also the socket inside the hat so I get intermittent triggering issues with that cymbal. Is fixable if you can use a soldering iron, they just use standard 1/4" jacks usually.
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Jan 14, 2017 14:26
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 12:38 |
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The more expensive units will have sockets to add a few extra drums, and snares/toms/cymbals are largely interchangeable between units and brands because all they really are is a piezo wired into a drum head (you can make your own with the parts from a musical greeting card). There will be some exceptions but as long as they both use the same 1/4" jack then they should work, most use a single stereo plug to act as a two-zone drum (rim+pad for snare/toms, edge+bow for cymbals) so you could replace a cymbal with another tom and it would work fine, just need to tell the brain that the cymbal is now a floor tom (or cowbell, no judgement here). There might be some intro stuff on the roland vdrum forums, the info will be largely roland oriented but the basic concepts are the same regardless if you use a yamaha or alesis kit. If you're keen you could have a look at the manuals for some of the roland kits (probably on their support site), they'll have the best explanations for basic connections and concepts.
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Jan 15, 2017 03:11
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