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The 5D III (I'm assuming that's your body for the RAW video hack) ML stuff is basically pre-alpha right now and really isn't meant to be user-friendly just yet. They're still in the experimental/proof-of-concept phase and will work on making it easier and prettier for newbies later. There are guides to get it going, but I'd still hold off unless you have previous ML experience.
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May 29, 2013 01:16
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The issue isnt with ML , even if i delete that firmware and go back to an older firmware, the issue is still there for some reason. And it's only using the CF card. I wonder if its the card going bad or something? So weird, the camera used to boot up extremely fast with the same exact card. I guess I can try using another CF card? Hmm....
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May 29, 2013 01:41
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When you say that formatting the card didn't work, do you mean that it wouldn't format, or that it formatted and didn't make a difference?
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May 29, 2013 01:46
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I'm pretty set on purchasing the Canon 70-200mm f/4L IS to replace my 70-300 f/4-5.6 USM. Is there any reason I should avoid also picking up the 1.4x Extender to go with it? I haven't used one before so any advice in this department is much appreciated. From the chart I linked below it doesn't appear the f/4L IS has any issues with the 1.4x, but I like to make sure beforehand. And I'm shooting on a 650d. Thanks in advance  http://www.bhphotovideo.com/FrameWork/charts/canon1_4xExtender.html
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May 29, 2013 01:53
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Just got a 6D and absolutely love it. However, I noticed a few specks of dust through the viewfinder, though they're not visible in photos and aren't bothersome. Is this worth cleaning and if so how?
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May 29, 2013 02:08
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ML on the 5D may be searching only on the SD card for the autoexec.bin file, which would explain why it's slow even if you put it on the CF card. I've never used ML though so this is just me guessing from what I've read here.
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May 29, 2013 03:17
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somnambulist posted:The issue isnt with ML , even if i delete that firmware and go back to an older firmware, the issue is still there for some reason. And it's only using the CF card. I wonder if its the card going bad or something? So weird, the camera used to boot up extremely fast with the same exact card. I guess I can try using another CF card? Hmm.... Another poster said there was a way to disable the bootloader, you need to do that otherwise your camera is always going to be looking for firmware updates on startup.
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May 29, 2013 03:22
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mclifford82 posted:I'm pretty set on purchasing the Canon 70-200mm f/4L IS to replace my 70-300 f/4-5.6 USM. Is there any reason I should avoid also picking up the 1.4x Extender to go with it? I haven't used one before so any advice in this department is much appreciated. From the chart I linked below it doesn't appear the f/4L IS has any issues with the 1.4x, but I like to make sure beforehand. I really like the 1.4x with my 70-200 f/4. It turns into a 100-300 f5.6. If you're constantly shooting at 200-300mm on your 70-300 then it will be great! Otherwise you lose a stop at 100-200mm vs without the extender and you lose the 70-100 range. It's kind of a PITA to put on / remove in the field so don't expect to swap it in or out quickly.
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May 29, 2013 04:15
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Have you thought about the 70-300L? It's a really great lens that people tend to overlook between the 70-200's and the 100-400.
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May 29, 2013 04:34
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Sorry in advance for possibly derailing anything. I've got a 50D that I acquired in a too-good-to-pass-up deal, and I've noticed something strange with the viewfinder. I've noticed that the felt (I believe) material on the inside of the body is visible in my viewfinder at the top. In other words, when looking through the view finder, all four sides aren't hard straight lines, but rather the top side/edge is fuzzy looking from what I assume is the felt in the body. Is this something I can adjust (focus screen?), or is something out of whack? Forgive me, I'm not really familiar with a lot of the proper terms when it comes to the inner workings of the camera body itself (aside from the mirror, sensor, mount, etc). Thanks in advance for any advice/help! Really great thread.
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May 29, 2013 04:52
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BetterLekNextTime posted:Have you thought about the 70-300L? It's a really great lens that people tend to overlook between the 70-200's and the 100-400. I have thought about it (though only briefly, I didn't even realize it existed until about two days ago). How would image quality stack up against the 70-200 f/4L? The situations where I would be using the longer end (especially if the 1.4x is attached) would be in cloudy conditions at the worst so even f5.6 would be good. UGAmazing posted:Sorry in advance for possibly derailing anything. Is the entire view blurry? There should be a small dial on the side to adjust the clarity of the viewfinder (dioptric adjustment). If that's not it, I dunno then. mclifford82 fucked around with this message at 06:16 on May 29, 2013 |
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May 29, 2013 06:13
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There seems to be a bit of a price drop on Canon 7Ds in Australian stores at the moment. They have had two large price cuts in about 4 months, dropping about $500-$600 in the process and can now be had for AU$912 I read a theory that retailers are probably getting a bunch of rebates/kick backs from Canon Australia to clear out the stock so they can announce a 7D Mark II. Is this a reasonable assumption? Is the 7D II something that has been talked about?
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May 29, 2013 06:42
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mclifford82 posted:I have thought about it (though only briefly, I didn't even realize it existed until about two days ago). How would image quality stack up against the 70-200 f/4L? The situations where I would be using the longer end (especially if the 1.4x is attached) would be in cloudy conditions at the worst so even f5.6 would be good. It's light, compact, sharp, quick AF, and has great IS. I think it would be sharper and faster AF at 300 than the 70-200/4 is with the 1.4x tc. The main issue is if you ever want to go longer than 300, the 70-300L can only take a small number of 3rd party TCs, and I've had poor results with that so far. Otherwise I love the lens. This link I think shows the comparison, although I can't tell which generation TC they are using. Pretty close to my eye.
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May 29, 2013 07:01
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1st AD posted:Another poster said there was a way to disable the bootloader, you need to do that otherwise your camera is always going to be looking for firmware updates on startup. I cant find it  I've looked everywhere, in the ML menus and in the Canon ones. Any idea where its hidden?
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May 29, 2013 07:39
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Start here: http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Unified
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May 29, 2013 07:45
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Instrumedley posted:Just got a 6D and absolutely love it. Nah don't bother, it's probably on the focusing screen which doesn't affect anything. You could remove the focusing screen to clean it, if you had the right tools though.
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May 29, 2013 08:19
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Does anyone know of a good eyepiece replacement for a crop body (600D)? I just got a Sigma 30mm lens which is like 48mm on APS-C but when I look through the eyepiece, it looks really small, even though the FOV is basically the same as when I look through my film SLR with a 50mm lens on. Is there any way to correct this so looking through the 600D will give me that true 50 look?
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May 29, 2013 14:13
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Does anyone know of a good eyepiece replacement for a crop body (600D)? I just got a Sigma 30mm lens which is like 48mm on APS-C but when I look through the eyepiece, it looks really small, even though the FOV is basically the same as when I look through my film SLR with a 50mm lens on. Not really, the 600D viewfinder looks small because it IS small.
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May 29, 2013 15:10
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Basically, yes. Your mirror box and pentamirror are APS-C sized, so they'll never feel as nice as a film SLR. Electronic viewfinders can be better for this.
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May 29, 2013 15:12
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"[ts posted:xenophobe" post="415787442"] Yeah and you'll get to use it until they release the final version which could be a few months from now.
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May 29, 2013 15:25
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UGAmazing posted:Sorry in advance for possibly derailing anything. I just recently had the same problem with my 50D. It is indeed the felt that is starting to sag and slightly block the mirror. I tried pushing it back in with no luck. Since the whole thing flips up when you take a picture, it doesn't affect the photos. I shot a little bit last weekend and didn't even notice it.
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May 29, 2013 15:33
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evil_bunnY posted:Basically, yes. Your mirror box and pentamirror are APS-C sized, so they'll never feel as nice as a film SLR. Electronic viewfinders can be better for this. Inf posted:Not really, the 600D viewfinder looks small because it IS small. Ah I see, thanks!
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May 29, 2013 16:42
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Hmm I searched the wiki and nothing really shows up for bootloader :/
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May 29, 2013 18:18
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Haggins posted:I just recently had the same problem with my 50D. It is indeed the felt that is starting to sag and slightly block the mirror. I tried pushing it back in with no luck. Since the whole thing flips up when you take a picture, it doesn't affect the photos. I shot a little bit last weekend and didn't even notice it. Gotcha, sounds like the same issue. The images certainly don't show any indication of the felt, just the viewfinder (and for the poster above--the viewfinder itself is focused and fine, it just appears as if a piece of fabric is showing in the viewfinder; hard to describe, really). Since it's sagging, I'd imagine it was once attached in some way; is it possible at all to repair the attachement of the felt? It's only a minor annoyance, of course, but in the event I'd like to re-sell this camera at some point, the less "problems" worth mentioning the better off I'd be. Thanks for the confirmation that it is indeed the felt.
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May 29, 2013 20:09
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somnambulist posted:Hmm I searched the wiki and nothing really shows up for bootloader :/ "SET pressed at startup: loads vanilla firmware (does not load Magic Lantern)." Is that what we're looking for here?
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May 30, 2013 06:36
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somnambulist posted:Hmm I searched the wiki and nothing really shows up for bootloader :/ Which camera are you trying to disable this for? if it's the 5D3, then you're out of luck as there's not yet an installer that reverts this setting. look at this forum post.
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May 30, 2013 11:05
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evilmonkeh posted:Which camera are you trying to disable this for? if it's the 5D3, then you're out of luck as there's not yet an installer that reverts this setting. look at this forum post. That would explain it. haha. Ugh. So the only way to make my CF card work properly is to remove ML right? Or does it permanently gently caress it up until someone creates a fix? Because I had already deleted ML and it was still doing it, but maybe I did something wrong.
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May 30, 2013 19:28
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Bought a badly treated Sigma AF 18mm f/3.5 ZEN. "Zen" is some kind of non-slip coating, which looks terrible when used for 20 years and will melt eventually to black goo, according to some sources. Anyways, the front and back elements are pretty thoroughly scratched (seller didn't mention anything about these). The lens has loads of distortion, and vignetting looks very interesting on digital - similar to Nikkor 18/3.5 Ai-S. Luckily vignetting starts to look "normal" when stopped down to 5.6 and gradually goes away by f/11. Distortion:  Wide open the resolution seems to be ok, significantly better than Nikkor Ai-S 24/2. Resolution improves at f5.6 and after that I didn't really see much difference at all between f5.6->f22. Extreme corners always look mushy. There's not much CA. When sun is in the frame there's loads of flare:   The lens focuses quite close, to 25cm. Bokeh is pretty smooth, way smoother than with some older Nikon wideangles I own:   Overall I'm pretty content with the Sigma's performance, altough I could have lived without the scratches   I paid 50€ from my sample, and in ebay prices were 40€ from barebones and 80€ from "like new" boxed. If someone needs a decent, cheap wide angle lens, Sigma might do the job. I'm not sure if I should complain to the seller about the scratches, but the most likely cause for that flare are subpar coatings so it may not be worth the effort.
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May 30, 2013 20:00
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Thing looks like a piece of poo poo. Maybe good if you're going for the holga look.
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May 30, 2013 20:42
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Haggins posted:Thing looks like a piece of poo poo. Maybe good if you're going for the holga look. True, if you haven't ever photographed with a holga, seen any photos taken with one, or really any photos taken with a poor lens at all
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May 30, 2013 20:51
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Looks like a good lens for video.
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May 30, 2013 20:52
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If you're shooting the next Star Trek movie...
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May 30, 2013 21:08
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Fine, I went out with a tripod & mlu, here's one 5D jpg at f/11 with lightroom's default settings: http://hakkarainen.kuvat.fi/temp2/IMG_0789_lr4.jpg I realize people have different quality requirements, and I'd very much like to shoot only with Zeiss & Leica glass.
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May 30, 2013 21:11
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As a bargain hunting beginner, how much would I be giving up getting a used 400D vs a T2i? Bodies on eBay for the 400 run around $150 and for the T2i around $350. I assume kit lenses aren't worth the $50-100 difference, right?
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May 30, 2013 22:10
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Huxley posted:As a bargain hunting beginner, how much would I be giving up getting a used 400D vs a T2i? Bodies on eBay for the 400 run around $150 and for the T2i around $350. I assume kit lenses aren't worth the $50-100 difference, right? T2i has what is basically Canon's current gen 18mp crop sensor, found in Cameras like the 7D ($1k) and 60D ($700). 400D has no movie mode, no live view, uses more expensive CF cards, 3 stops less ISO sensitivity, 10MP vs 18MP etc etc Not worth it!
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May 30, 2013 22:17
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Huxley posted:As a bargain hunting beginner, how much would I be giving up getting a used 400D vs a T2i? Bodies on eBay for the 400 run around $150 and for the T2i around $350. I assume kit lenses aren't worth the $50-100 difference, right? Get the T2i for the love of God if you plan on learning how to use a DSLR
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May 31, 2013 02:36
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Thanks for setting me straight.
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May 31, 2013 02:48
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Or get a T3! (Or spend $100 more and get a 50D) Edit: A second control wheel for exposure compensation/manual mode, LED panel, and joystick (non-terrible AF point selection) namely It is worth noting that manual mode is still usable without the second wheel; you hold the compensation button while using the control wheel to change aperture. I realized this rather too late. vvvv Qtotonibudinibudet fucked around with this message at 03:38 on May 31, 2013 |
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May 31, 2013 03:21
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If you have the extra money a 50D wouldn't be a bad call. The XXDs feel better in the hands than a Rebel. Also there's probably some nice features. I used to think "man photographers are full of such bullshit they just want to buy fancier cameras" but no some of the stuff people say is true.
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May 31, 2013 03:29
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What's good for 58mm polarizing filters? I've seen one in action and I think it might be worth having for some outdoors pictures. I see this that comes with a case, but I have no idea what brands are the best or worst
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May 31, 2013 04:05
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