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Jerm324 posted:It makes sense especially if what you do most is wildlife. If you had an R5 I'd say pick up the R7 and keep the R5 as well. But with the R6 the switch makes more sense. Personally I never liked the small 20MP on the R6, but I have OCD about cropping images smaller than 10MP, so that might just be me. So in your case the sensor might be smaller with APS-C but you're going up to 32.5MP which will give greater room for cropping and you'll get the 1.6x crop factor built in. As long as what you lose from going to full frame to APS-C doesn't really matter to you, then go for it. Yeah I'll want to look at the high iso samples as they come out, that's my main concern. I really like what the R6 produces even at ridiculous IS0, and I'm mostly making smaller prints anyway (or can use lightroom/gigapixel if I need a slightly larger file). So I don't care about losing the full frame coverage, just the performance. charliebravo77 posted:I pre-ordered the R7. I know what I really want is the R5 but I can't stomach the cost as a 95% hobbyist. It's a shame the R and R6 aren't crippled in their own ways. Congrats!
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May 25, 2022 01:08
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Philthy posted:Well, this kind of sucks. I got my 70D and I cannot get any pictures remotely as sharp as the XT it is replacing. The live view is better for focusing, but still not nearly as sharp as the XT still. That's weird. You're looking at the images on a computer, right? Just double-checking it's not just the diopter on the viewfinder. I've never done any in camera micro focus adjust stuff but maybe see if you can find that in the menus and reset it. Regarding other models, I think that's probably a good choice in that price range. For a smidge more there are some newer models like the 80D and 77D . MPB has the 7Dmk2 for about $700 or $800 I think if you wanted to go bigger. e: I see your reply to the earlier post, so ignore the diopter comment. BetterLekNextTime fucked around with this message at 20:16 on May 27, 2022 |
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May 27, 2022 20:11
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I've been doing almost exclusively nature photography but I'm starting to get some paid work shooting humans, like, indoors and stuff. Small venue music stuff plus maybe some normal events photos, group photos, etc. I'm feeling good about the bodies I have (5D4 and R6). The zoom trinity is 16-35 / 24-70 / 70-200, so... The one I really need out of these is the 24-70. I've started reading up and I think I want the 24-70/4 IS. Sharp and cheaper than the /2.8 or the Sigma. Am I crazy for not immediately leaning towards the faster lenses here? Is there some magic reason to have at least one lens that's /2.8? Love to hear your personal experiences or see any useful/practical links you can share. The other two I've got more or less covered with existing lenses (17-40L and 70-300L).
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Sep 17, 2022 19:29
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Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the perspective. Can I ask what the biggest deal is with 2.8 vs. 4? Seems like they would differ in: 1) Total light @2.8 v 4 2) possibly AF ability in low light 3) DOF #1 seems like the most important but also something I can make up for with the sensor in the R6. Am I thinking about this wrong? 70-200 is too long for the small venue stuff I've done so far but I can see how it might be important for other things in the future. A 70-200 + 1.4x would pretty much give me what I have with the 70-300.
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Sep 18, 2022 19:40
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Bottom Liner posted:Are you shooting through the EVF or lcd? The EVF actually eats through the battery significantly faster which seems counterintuitive to me. I have some Neewer batteries that have been reliable. Why is this? I can't figure out why that would be especially when the EVF turns off when not up to your face.
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Mar 9, 2023 00:16
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I had a weird experience at a photo class yesterday. I had a Sigma 50/1.4 dg ex on a 5D4 and sometimes it through one or more concentric circles on the image. Other times no. It also seemed to do it on my R6. It appeared on the raw and not just an in-camera jpeg. What the heck is going on? Wtf lens circles on Flickr Wtf lens circles on Flickr Wtf lens circles on FlickrPartially related to this question, anyone have thoughts on a reasonably inexpensive portrait lens for EF? I'm probably looking at a price range between used 85/1.8 EF (~$250) and Sigma Art 50/1.4 (~$650)
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Mar 26, 2023 17:56
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That definitely seems like the issue. Of course now I can't replicate the problem at home 
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Mar 26, 2023 18:54
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tangy yet delightful posted:I have a Canon Macro Lense EF 100mm 1:2.8 USM that is throwing an Err 01. I've done the whole remove and reinstall the lens, camera on/off, clean the contacts and it's still not resolving. I have 2 other lenses that are working fine on the camera. From an earlier issue with the same error at work I am imagining that it could be the power aperture which with part+labor was a $350 repair. So that’s not the L version? You could pick up an new (used) one for less than $350.
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Jun 11, 2023 01:15
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yoohoo posted:That certainly makes the R8 a lot more enticing. Does Canon still offer a discount for trading in your old camera like they used to? This spring they had extra rebates on new gear with a trade in, but I’m not sure if that’s still going. I think this was different than the loyalty program which I think is not going anymore. The newest models might not be hitting yet, but there have been some stupid good prices in the refurbished store recently. At some point a refurb R6 was like $1300 which is half-off when it launched.
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Jul 12, 2023 21:22
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litany of gulps posted:They should be regardless of your autofocus settings, but the autofocus can get pretty specific. I’m not sure if the menus are the same on the R7 as my R5, but open your menu, then go to AF 1. There should be a toggle that tells your autofocus to focus on animals. Kind of disagree that this is necessarily an "easy" situation. I mean, it's better than a bird in the middle of a bush but you have a somewhat complex background that's not super separated from the subject. There's a non-zero chance that the AF could grab sand instead of a pencil-necked bird head. The wagtail is so small in frame that there's a reasonable chance it won't get identified as a subject. Not sure what your settings are but for something like this you probably need to use a small cluster of points rather than a big zone, and then watch the AF squares that light up to make sure that it's grabbing the right thing and not some high contrast dirt in the background. Re: AF settings-- That may be for eye detection? These birds may be too far away for that to work. The more you shoot with your camera the more you'll recognize when it will work perfectly and when it won't. And there's a reason why we shoot a bazillion photos on an outing...
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Oct 1, 2023 16:33
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Yeah, I had the old Sigma 8-16 APS-C and it was fun as hell but this is even wider than that.
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Oct 11, 2023 19:22
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xzzy posted:Now you can go from 10mm to 800mm with four lenses and zero overlap in focal length. Gonna be a heavy expensive bag but you'll be prepared for everything! If it’s aimed at the people using adapted sigma / Tamron 150-600’s they are usually shooting at at least f/7.1 anyway, so f/9 isn’t going to be scary. And don’t forget how much ridicule Canon got for the 100-500 f/7.1 that actually ended up flying off the shelves.
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Nov 2, 2023 15:34
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joat mon posted:I've recently upgraded from a 7D to an RP. When I use my Tamron 2.8 70-200 G2 with a Canon EF adapter and a Canon 1.4x extender, the widest aperture shown for the lens is f5.6. Correct behavior should be to show a max aperture of f/4 with the extender on. Maybe there's some glitch with the combo of lens/extender/adapter/camera causing the extender to be read as a 2x. Can't really explain it if you look at the firmware updates that roll out sometimes they fix things like cameras improperly reading info like this.
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Jan 4, 2024 04:32
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i am kiss u now posted:So, I’ve started to think about getting back into just some hobby photography again, as my girlfriend is also expressing some interest as well, and my current body is a Canon EOS 60D, and a range of entry-mid level lenses (including several “red-rings.”). My question is, what is sort of the modern equivalent of the 60D in APS-C? I’d be looking to replace the body only, and ideally under $1000. A goon has an R7 in the buy-sell thread right now. The Ef-R adapters generally work well so all your old glass should be portable to an R body. There may be a few EF lenses that that prevent shooting at maximum fps on the R bodies but pretty much anything is going to seem faster than the 60D. Mirrorless is definitely the future but if you really want to stay in DSLR land you could go for a like new 90D (closest analog to the 60D), or FF options like a 6Dmk2 or good condition 5Dmk4. If you're mainly doing sports/wildlife there's the 7Dmk2 which is outdated compared to recent cameras but was the top of the line prosumer outdoors aps-c for a while.
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Apr 22, 2024 19:13
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