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This thread is for the discussion of all things Canon -- lenses, bodies, flashes, accessories, rumors, etc. Feel free to add any knowledge, ask questions, and wank about gear. Here's a little introduction: Canon is one of the leading camera brands. The Canon system is made up of their camera bodies, hotshoe flashes and accessories, and lenses. Canon's first DSLR, the EOS DCS 3, was a 1.3 megapixel camera developed in collaboration with Kodak in 1995. The camera was a sight to behold.  Camera Bodies Canon's camera bodies can be divided into 8 categories: The early DXX line, Digital Rebel line / XXXD line, XXD line, 5D line, the 6D, the 7D (6D and 7D to possibly become a 'line'), 1D line, 1Ds line and the 1DX. Here's a year-by-year display of Canon's DSLR lineup All the Camera bodies have different sizes. With exception of the 1D lines, here they are relative to each other, including the super small SLR1  The DXXs 5 years later, in October of 2000 Canon introduced the D30. The D30 introduced Canon’s CMOS imaging sensor technology. CMOS technology had been previously used by Canon in the development of its AF and metering sensors, this was the first time it had been used for the imaging sensor. The D30 was succeeded by the D60 (not to be confused with Nikon's D60, or Canon's later 30D and 60D). These cameras were interesting in that they were APS-C (1.6x crop) cameras, but the EF-S mount was not yet implemented. D30 | D60 The Rebels   Beginning with the Canon EOS Digital Rebel (in Europe: 300D), Canon introduced their entry-line, consumer dSLR series. The Rebels are inexpensive, but also reflect their price in their performance and construction. The line has been split seemingly in two: the XXXD line (Rebel, XT, XTi, XSi, T1i/2i/3i/4i/5i, SL1) and the XXXXD line (Rebel XS and T3). The latest Rebel, the SL1 / 100D, is the smallest DSLR made by Canon, even compared to the already small Rebel line. If you have large hands, the T5i is already cramp-worth (a grip helps greatly) the SL1 just looks like it would make my hands hurt. The T2i - T5i are largely the same camera with small (if any changes), the T3i and up have swivel LCDs. This isn't a bad thing in that you can save some money and not get caught up in a name update. Mr. Despair posted:All you need to know about the t5i: To add insult to injury, the SL1 introduced a brand new 18mp sensor that, given the timing of releases, could easily have been included with the T5i. But Canon being Canon will probably wait for the next gen 7D or XXD body for it. Their lineage is as follows: Rebel (300D) | XT (350D) | XTi (400D) | XSi (450D) | T1i (500D) | T2i (550D) | T3i (600D) | T4i (650D) | T5i (700D) | SL1 (100D) The XS and T3 are the low end of entry level. They lag behind the XXXD in construction, controls, frame rate, buffer size, and general features. XS (1000D) | T3 (1100D) In any case, the Rebels offer an affordable first step into photography, and are fully compatible with the entirety of the modern Canon system. Good applications for the Rebels:
The XXDs   Starting with the 10D, the XXD line is Canon's 'pro-sumer' line of cameras, directed at the serious amateur, or beginning professional. They feature solid, magnesium-alloy construction, good autofocus performance, handling tailored for on-the-fly shooting, good FPS, and are often turned to by wildlife shooters who want the 1.6X crop factor for the most reach on their telephotos. Their line is as follows: 10D | 20D | 30D | 40D | 50D | 60D | 60Da The 20D->30D and 40D->50D are all seen as more minor upgrades, opposed to the 10D->20D and 30D->40D upgrade. The 20D is still a solid camera, if a bit dated. Then there is the 60D. Canon took a step backward in the XXD line with the 60D, opting for plastic rather than magnesium construction, inferior controls to the 50D, no flash PC sync socket, fewer fine control features like multiflash control and AF adjustments. This is likely due to Canon releasing the 7D and finding themselves with the XXD line being rather redundant. But there is the 60Da, a variant of the 60D tuned for astrophotography. The camera features a re-worked infra-red filter leaving the camera more sensitive to a specific emission frequency (656nm) of hydrogen, key to capturing images of features such as nebulae (gas clouds) in space. The 18MP camera continues where 2005's 8MP EOS 20Da left off. Good applications for the XXDs:
The 7D   In September of 2009, Canon introduced the 7D. The 7D is an interesting beast. It packs 18mp into an APS-C sensor, but then surprises with decent high ISO performance (better than the 50D). It features a great, brand-new autofocus system and fires at 8fps, making it pretty much ideal for wildlife and bird photography as well as a capable sports and all-around performer. It also shoots HD video. 7D Good applications for the 7D:
The 6D   The 6D is Canon's new "entry-level" full frame camera. When the 5Diii was introduced at nearly $1,000 more than the 5Dii with its greatly improved feature set, Canon introduced its new line. It comes with a 20.2 megapixel sensor, silent shutter capable, 11 Point AF system, iMAGE Gateway to share with iOS and Android systems along with GPS and a built-in WiFi transmitter. The 6D's lowlight ISO capabilities have been reported to exceed that of the 5Diii as well. It does however lose the rear joystick, slower flash sync speed (1/180 compared to 1/200) and slower top shutter speed. It also only has 1 SD card slot. Beware of Canon's software that comes with the 6D. It's a piece of poo poo and causes problems. Try the following. ShotgunWillie posted:This is only if you use the Canon proprietary software. Connecting [the 6D] to my network, my computer then sees it as if it was plugged into USB and I can offload files as normal, albeit a little slowly. The software is a piece of poo poo, but the wifi remains perfectly functional. 6D Good applications for the 6D:
The 5D Line   Canon's 5D line consists of three cameras. They feature full-frame, high resolution sensors, and are aimed at portrait, wedding, and studio shooters. They are: 5D | 5D Mark II | 5D Mark III They first two have a very wide generation gap, but the original 5D is still a great still-life camera. The 5D Mark II's high ISO performance is stellar, and it also features HD video, with manual control after the latest firmware update. It's no replacement for a real video camera, but it also isn't something to just dismiss. The 5D Mark III is pretty sweet. It's got crazy good ISO range, shoots at 6fps, and sports a brand-new 61-point AF system that should address the concerns about lackluster AF performance in the Mark II. Good applications for the 5Ds:
The 1D Line  Canon's 1D line is tailored to professional photojournalists and sports shooters. It features high FPS, world-class autofocus, tank-like build quality and weathersealing, and a 1.3x crop factor. The line currently features 4 bodies: 1D | 1D Mark II | 1D Mark IIN | 1D Mark III | 1D Mark IV The 1Ds Line  The 1Ds line is Canon's flagship studio camera, with huge resolution and full-frame sensors. The three cameras are: 1Ds | 1Ds Mark II | 1Ds Mark III The 1D-X - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5aAYpwB5zc    Then, Canon announced the answer to Nikon's D4: the 1DX. Basically, they finally stuck a full-frame sensor in a sports camera. The result is a replacement to the 1D and 1Ds lines, unifying the two. The 1DX has a brand-new, fancy schmancy AF system, shoots at 12FPS (14FPS if you lock the mirror up and capture JPEGs), and a whole bunch of other new-tech features. It's the flagship, now. 1D-X The 1D-C  In 2012, Canon, released the 1DC with the ability to record video 4K up to 24k without downscaling. It shares the 1DX's body and specifications, but highly different firmware. You're able to capture video uncompressed to two CF cards or via HDMI to an external device. While it's geared more towards Canon's Cine lenses, you can use the EF lineup as well. 1D-C The EOS M    The Canon EOS M is Canon's first mirror less camera with an interchangeable lens system. It has the same sensor ASP-C sensor as the Rebel Series and its rear interface also includes an expanded touch screen interface. There is also an adaptor so that you can use EF and EF-S lenses with the camera as well. EOS M Good applications for the EOS M You want an inconspicuous point and shoot sized camera with a better lens system and a DSLR-sized sensor. Still into Film? How about the EOS 3 or EOS 1v   The 1v is the only film camera still in production from Canon. The EOS 3 and others can be easily found on eBay or other online retailers specializing in used equipment. I personally have the EOS 3 and it's fantastic, weighs and handles similarly to my 5Dii, but has better auto focus. I don't use the Eye Control, though it does seem to work. EOS 1v | EOS 3 The Lenses woot fatigue posted:Get the TS-E 24/3.5LII. It's the perfect travel lens for anyone going to Europe, and is a perfect walk-about lens for any city. Canon's lenses fall into 2 main groups: EF and EF-S. There is also the EF-M line for Canon's mirrorless (EOS M) endeavors.
USM or why does my "Nifty Fifty" sound like a blender when I focus? USM stands for Ultrasonic Motor. Introduced to the lineup in 1987, USM spread out to many of Canon's other lenses. If you want to read an overview of USM technology, you can start here: http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/technical/usmlens_technology.do What's this STM I see on the EF-M lenses? STM stands for Stepper Motor. STM is what Canon has been introducing in a handful of lenses including two EF-M lenses. Also included in this new club are the 40mm f/2.8 pancake, 18-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS STM and 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 IS STM. Canon hasn't yet released details about the STM motors, but they're supposed to further reduce sound noise and vibration (and perhaps breathing) that can be transferred to the video and audio while recording. My guess is that the STM have even smaller motors and more intelligent AF to allow better lens breathing. Breathing? Let this video show you the difference between Canon's L lenses and Canon's Cine Lenses http://vimeo.com/56357604 IS or Image Stabilization Despite being a popular feature, IS is not found on all of Canon's lenses. IS is available on the majority of the EF-S zoom lenses and on many of the longer EF zoom lenses. IS on Canon's prime lenses is primarily found on the longer telephoto lenses such as the 400mm f/2.8 IS. Recently Canon added IS to three of their EF primes, the 24mm f/2.8, 28mm f/2.8 and 35mm f/2 to draw attention from videographers EF-S Lenses With most Canon 1.6 crop bodies (XXXD / Rebel Series, XXD Series, 7D) an optional EF-S "kit lens" can be included. The EF-S lineup, with exception of the 60mm f/2.8 macro prime, are all zoom lenses. And out of the zoom lenses only the EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS has a constant aperture. Aside from the two aforementioned lenses, the EF-S lenses are slower lenses with a minimum aperture of f/3.5 The bodies of the EF-S lineup are made of plastic (like all non-L EF lenses) and are generally lighter in weight and across the board less expensive. Despite all these "negatives", they can take excellent photos that are tack-sharp, despite the lens speed. However, if you want to do lowlight photography without a flash, you'll have to look to the EF lineup. EF Lenses Canon has a solid line-up of moderately-priced EF lenses as counterparts to the L-series. The L that Canon designates its top-of-the-line EF lenses stands for "luxury". Generally, L lenses feature high-quality optics, wide and constant apertures, top-notch build quality, weather-sealing (but not always), and ultrasonic motors. There are, of course, exceptions. Also, there is a bit of a cult surrounding L lenses. Do not fall into it. While lenses, like any photographic equipment, are tools that make the job easier or facilitate the fulfillment of your creative vision, do not make the mistake of believing that buying expensive equipment will magically better your photography. The non-L lenses can, at times, keep up or even outperform the L lens counterparts in certain areas such as auto focus and when stopped down photos are virtually indistinguishable. For example: There have been numerous tests between the 50mm f/1.8, 50mm f/1.4 and the 50mm f/1.2L and the most distinguishing aspect is the different bokeh pattern from the number of blades the irises have. Once you get to f/2 the bokeh all looks like footballs. In the autofocus arena, the 85mm f/1.8's autofocus is probably the fastest AF lens Canon produces. While the 85 f/1.2 may be the slowest, but it does have a lot of heavy glass to move. Third-party Lenses In addition to Canon's lenses, there are of course third-party offerings from Sigma, Tamron, Tokina, etc. Sigma especially has been making waves with their recently released and highly praised 35 f/1.4 lens to compete with Canon's 35mm f/1.4L. The Sigma 35's test photos have been excellent and the price tag is several hundred less than Canon's L offering. Sigma then again stunned the masses when they announced the 18-35 f/1.8 for ASP-C (crop) bodies. It will be the widest constant aperture zoom available and now I wish I still had my T2i. Lens Adapters As Martytoof and Clayton Bigsby have posted, you can use a mechanical adapter and physically mount and use Nikon F-Mount, Olympus OM, Leica R, and M42 lenses, albeit in stopdown metering mode, and with or without AF-assist, depending on whether or not your adapter has the required circuitry. You can also get some K mounts on there but generally have to do a little modification to the aperture lever. There's also the C/Y mount where you can find some pretty nice glass… However, not all lenses will mount with the adapters -- you have to be careful that the rear of the lens doesn't bang into the mirror. Furthermore, other mounts can indeed be adapted to Canon cameras, but without adapters with optics (which usually degrade image quality and magnify a bit), these other mounts will lack infinity focus. Here is the list of adaptable mounts, taken from this page.  The Flashes Canon makes several TTL shoe-mount flashes. The latest is the 600EX-RT, which has built-in radio controls to talk to other 600EX-RTs without the need for line-of-sight or optical slaving or use of 3rd party systems like Pocket Wizards. The most popular are the 430EX II and 580EX II. The 580EX II has been discontinued, but still and excellent piece of equipment and can be found secondhand.    All feature bounce, swivel, and zoom heads as well as full-auto and full-manual operation. The 600EX-RT is a step up from the 580EX which is a step up from the 430EX. The 600 and 580ex have better controls, more power, a bounce card, a PC sync port (the 430EX does not have one, which is pretty much inexcusable on Canon's part), and the ability to act as a commander unit to control other Canon flashes remotely. Other notable parts of the Canon flash system are its macro flash, the MT-24EX. 430EX II | 580EX II | 600EX-RT | MT-24EX There are, of course, other and older Canon flashes. That doesn't mean they're not a viable option. Look into them, or if you know about them, post about them! Commander unit / Trancievers These are not a flash, but a way to control other remote flashes without the use of 3rd party systems such as PocketWizards. The ST-E2 is limited to line-of-sight just as if you were to use the 580 EXII as the master. The ST-E3-RT uses radio transmitter to talk to slave 600 EX-RTs. ST-E3-RT | ST-E3-RT If you want to get more into Flash photography, check out the lighting thread. I hope that this introduction to the Canon system was at least a bit useful. geeves fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Jun 19, 2013 |
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May 11, 2013 02:16
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rcman50166 posted:Wikipedia does a pretty good job summing up the camera lines: Mr. Despair posted:All you need to know about the t5i: Thanks! added to the OP
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May 11, 2013 02:55
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Inf posted:If you're getting a filter just for protection, do yourself a favor and get a good one. I agree with this. I have a clear B+W 72mm MRC Nano Clear for my 35L and 50L and currently a heliopan 77mm filter. I have a B+W 77mm UV filter too that I haven't used / needed yet. Neither interfere with my photos and if anything I'd rather have a fingerprint or dust on the filter than on the lens.
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Jun 6, 2013 03:43
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torgeaux posted:Except in extreme environmental conditions, you're better off with hood only for protection. Desert, near the surf on the beach, shooting from moving vehicle in dusty conditions, rain (to complete the weather seal). The lens is not going to be hurt by dust or a fingerprint, and cleaning it is no harder than cleaning the filter. You're absolutely correct. If I'm doing something specific and in a controlled environment no filter. But for general shooting in the wild (in the city) or at parties or events I keep one on. Plus a filter has saved by 24L twice - once being shoved at a concert (lens first) into a railing, the other being mugged. Because I'm retarded I going to frame the broken filters.
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Jun 7, 2013 03:31
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Drunk Badger posted:Went and got a 50mm f1.8. Take a picture, and hear a strange beep I've never heard before. So, did you clean the lens contacts?
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Jun 9, 2013 22:07
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Boneitis posted:Pulled the trigger on a 40mm 2.8 through eBay a few days ago, and holy poo poo was I impressed. I can see why everyone says that everyone else needs one. Seriously tack sharp, a far cry from the kit lens that I was using. One thing that is hard to get used to, however, is the STM. Even though the auto focus is fast and accurate for the most part, the AF Points on my T1i are mainly useless save for the center point. That means that I rely on the manual focus for the most part while shooting still life. The manual focus is pretty annoying on this lens. There is a small lag between the turning of the ring and the actual movement of the focus. I could get used to it, but it being a smaller focal length with a wider depth of field makes it hard to actually see if the subject is in focus. How does the STM lens differ in use from regular AF USM? I haven't used one, so I was limited by what I could find for the OP.
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Jun 14, 2013 18:02
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Combat Pretzel posted:--edit: There's EOS 3D rumors going around yet again, because some idiot supposedly wore a camera strap saying 3D. Which made me think, are there any informations about Canon doing anything in the direction of SLT and/or mirrorless DSLR-sized cameras? Because I tried the Sony A99 and the EVF is The WiFi with the 6D, in the previous pages, has been mentioned to kill networks and was terrible software. If you're sharing or on another network, something to keep in mind: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3548773&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=15#post416522122 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3548773&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=15#post416523938 edit: Reading these two posts, it sounds like the "listener" for the 6D transfer is causing a DDoS of sorts. But I can't confirm without testing it myself. geeves fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Jun 19, 2013 |
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Jun 19, 2013 02:35
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ShotgunWillie posted:This is only if you use the Canon proprietary software. Connecting it to my network, my computer then sees it as if it was plugged into USB and I can offload files as normal, albeit a little slowly. The software is a piece of poo poo, but the wifi remains perfectly functional. Thanks! Added to the OP geeves fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Jun 19, 2013 |
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Jun 19, 2013 16:22
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doctor 7 posted:Is Kai the one who has named his wireless network Cuntflaps? The is pretty much the only thing I remember with there 5D M3 preview a while back. NMA got the tone right for DigRev I guess. http://youtu.be/y3nS6IAuAMc?t=14m22s  Amazing.
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Jul 3, 2013 03:26
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Oprah Haza posted:After watching/shooting a fireworks show I met up with my some friends to shoot some smaller ones in a cul-de-sac. I began shooting people with sparklers with long exposures on a tripod, someone threw what they thought to be a noisemaker by a crowd of people except it turned out to be a helicopter which launched itselves into the crowd, showering people with sparks. People scrambled, tripod knocked over, shatter, everyone froze, someone started crying. I was five feet away from it all, grabbing an ND filter. Why you didn't grab the remainder of the lens and not bludgeon the person responsible to near-death is beyond me.
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Jul 6, 2013 21:46
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notwithoutmyanus posted:been reading the thread - going to update from kiss digital x to something more modern prior to a trip to italy, so this is a great resource! How many shots per second are you expecting to shoot? You're probably running into more speed issues with the Buffer from your camera's processor, not the write speed of your CF card. Just get a card with 90mb/s write speed (ex: Sandisk Extreme Pro) if you go the 6D route (actually, regardless of what camera you choose). You're already spending $1800+ on a camera, spend the $100 for a really good SD card. The 7D is the only other Canon crop camera that uses compact flash. The 7D can shoot 8fps, the new 70D is claiming to be 6fps and uses SD. If I was in your shoes and wanted to upgrade and had the budget, I would look at the 6D (if you want full frame) or 70D (which is coming out soon, and you have no need for a full frame camera, especially if you wanted to shoot video from time-to-time). The previews look good (see below). Especially the live-view auto-focusing updates which are a long time coming. Also, You won't be able to use the 55-250 with the 6D. The 70-200 f/4 comparatively isn't too expensive. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4TffRSFSwo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVAIEdwfj78 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nF9pmqEN3bE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjH4Inox4YA
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Jul 9, 2013 05:17
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notwithoutmyanus posted:re: shots per second/speed issues: Truthfully, I don't know what the issue was - I wouldn't doubt that it was buffer given how old the camera is. I was looking at 70D, it seemed to be a great match - but when is it coming out? My trip is end of September, so I'd like to have it by then - although Canon hasn't given an exact date yet. Unfortunately, nobody has seen a date for the 70D, yet. And everyone here knows about waiting for new lenses and bodies once they've been announced. Where are you going on your trip and what do you think you will be shooting? Take these into consideration with the lenses. Are you shooting at night, indoors, etc. Keep in mind there is always the option to rent bodies and lenses before you buy or rent for the trip itself. Yes, it may be considered an extra investment, but when you're buying a body that will presumably last you the next 4-5 years and lenses that will last you forever, renting may be a small price to pay upfront.
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Jul 10, 2013 02:46
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erephus posted:I have a 1100D, I had it for a week. Been pleased with it, comfortable to use, good pictures and so on. But it was slightly overpriced. Yes, because your weight ratio is off because of the 100D's size and weight.  Glad you noted the thread title and returned the 1100D. Did you hold either of the cameras in your hand before purchasing? Here's a high-level breakdown of features between the two cameras. The 600D was released in 2011, the 100D in 2013. The 100D does have a newer sensor which is not in the 600D, 650D or 700D models. http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon-600d-vs-Canon-EOS-100D If you have large hands, you might end up disliking the ergonomics of the 100D during prolonged usage. It is the smallest DSLR made to date by any manufacturer. But really with either, for starters, you are going to be in good shape.
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Jul 25, 2013 22:11
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Quantum of Phallus posted:I've had a 600D for a couple of years now, it's a very good camera, great for video. If you add a vertical grip, which you can get cheap enough on eBay, it feels much better in your hand. As it is, my fingers hang off the bottom of the 600D and this makes it feel awkward so I always use the grip. This, especially if you have a long day of shooting, it will fit better in your hands, and the dual batteries give you extra long shooting time. Also your portrait photos will be less likely to have a diagonal horizon.
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Jul 27, 2013 21:00
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rcman50166 posted:I just got in a 5D Mark III rental from Borrow Lenses. I don't know what I'm going to do when I have to return it. Also, holy crap a crop sensor chops off a bunch more than I thought it did. If you're using a very wide lens (24mm or wider) it's awesome to see the barrel distortion in the viewfinder as you pan across a room / crowd.
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Aug 2, 2013 00:21
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Combat Pretzel posted:I've been thinking giving Sigma's track record with the new set of lenses, and the attempt of maximizing apertures, see the 18-35/1.8, and especially if the 24-70mm/2.0 rumor turns out true, them making a 50mm/1.0 would be cool. Sigma is going to release a 50mm f/0.7 to work with the 5D3 in taking cave photos
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Aug 10, 2013 05:17
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I'm considering a new lens, and of course, it's hard to go wrong. the 70-200 f/2.8L (non-IS) or the 135 f/2.0L. IS isn't a selling point for me, though I wish I could afford the latest 70-200. The 135 is $989 and the 70-200 is $1299. While it is a $300 difference, its negligible in this case. I budget is 1400. I've rented both and loved both and the reason I'm leaning toward the 70-200 is versatility as the rest of my lens are primes (24L, 35L, 50L). I think it's only a matter of time before I get both and if I hadn't done a price check on the 70-200, I would have probably ordered the 135L. Also, maybe in a few months, I could sell the 70-200 and use the value towards the II version. Anyone else in a similar predicament?
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Aug 15, 2013 03:04
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Haggins posted:I haven't used a 135, but I did have a Sigma 150 macro for awhile. It was a great lens but, I found using a longer prime more restricting. For shorter primes (like your 24, 35, and 50, even an 85), you don't have to "zoom with your feet" too much to get the composition you want. With something longer, sometimes you want to step 20 feet back and can't do it because somethings in the way. bisticles posted:Seriously, the 70-200s are all so fantastic that they kind of negate the need for long range primes. I recently did an outdoor shoot where I switched between the 70-200 f/4L and 100L and the results are pretty close across the board. Thinking of selling/trading the 100L macro, actually, to pick up something I might use more. I ordered the 70-200 this morning and it should arrive tomorrow morning. I expect to have a sore arm after this weekend.
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Aug 15, 2013 20:20
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Combat Pretzel posted:There were rumors about Sigma making an Art series 135mm/1.8. I think Canon has a patent for a 135 f/1.8 as well.
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Aug 16, 2013 19:20
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pseudonordic posted:Just doing some 200mm curls, scoping the bokehs. Do you even DoF, bro? Pretty much. The AF is pretty drat fast and smarter than the 50L and 35L. From what everyone says I can only imagine the f/2.8L IS II
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Aug 18, 2013 06:37
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BobTheDestroyer posted:Another request for a lens suggestion post. What focal length did you record that? As a previous owner of the canon 50 f/1.4 I will never stop recommending it. Throughout this and the previous threads posts are several calls into question about the lens quality, especially when bumped. I never experienced such things, granted I never dropped the lens or bumped it especially hard. (buy a hood). Yes, the lens design is 15+ years old and the front element extends outward while focusing (hey the 85mm f/1.2L does this as well). As for the video? How is your video taken? At 85? at 15? Somewhere in the middle?
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Aug 28, 2013 02:50
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dakana posted:In what way? I'm really curious about the 70-200 IS II's autofocus. I just got the original 70-200 2.8 non-IS and it's fast (at least to me). I"m really looking forward to the potential Sigma 24-70 f/2. A full extra stop of light for that lens would be really welcome.
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Aug 31, 2013 21:56
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spog posted:That's what blows my mind: by its very nature, you are a customer of Canon. If you weren't, you wouldn't want the software. Probably some over-zealous software engineer. Trust me, I deal with those types of people a lot.
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Aug 31, 2013 22:59
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800peepee51doodoo posted:Why would anyone make a 135 for a crop? I don't think 216mm is a coveted focal range. I think on the realm, "because we can" Same reason for the 18-35 f/1.8. I think a great feat in an of itself, but make a 16/18-35ish f/2 for full frame that would be amazing. But for 1/3 of a stop they have huge disadvantage against the Canon 135 if only because it is one of Canon's best lenses (not even considering its cost). That's why their 24-70 f/2 could be such a big deal - that's a full stop of light against lens series that can't even get IS into the 2.8 lens. geeves fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Sep 11, 2013 |
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Sep 11, 2013 01:45
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Borrowed my friend's 70D yesterday for a wedding. Didn't use it much (and glad I didn't because I didn't properly set it to RAW when I thought I had), but aside from that, it was a real joy to use and I loved the menu. So question: Does the 6d or 5D3 share similar menus and touch capabilities with the 70D or is it unique?
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Sep 16, 2013 00:58
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dakana posted:Is anyone able to nail down a reason to buy the Canon 35 1.4 over the Sigma 35 1.4? Seems like AF is the same, and the Sigma eeks out over the Canon in IQ and CA while being substantially cheaper. Aside from price, I think it's a personal preference on how you you like the aesthetic of your photos. Yes, the Sigma is sharper, but for me I like the look of the photos of Canon's 35. I rented and used both and decided on Canon.
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Sep 22, 2013 22:16
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EPICAC posted:I though the pixel densities were lower on FF. By my calculations the 70D has ~48K pixels/mm2, and the 5D3 has about ~26K. doctor 7 posted:I'm pretty much out of my element as to the technical aspects of FF to crop but I was under the impression that crops and FF are essentially the same but the crops are physically smaller (thus cheaper). So the density is the same but the surface area is smaller, so less light can hit the crop resulting in the FF producing the superior image (especially in low-light). The density of a crop can be different (and frequently are) between crop and full frame. This is pretty good reading: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/01/sensor-size-matters-part-1 http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/02/sensor-size-matters-part-2 BetterLekNextTime posted:Pretty sure the pixels are actually larger on a FF sensor, making them more sensitive. Yes. Think of Full Frame sensors containing nice big glasses to collect water. Crop sensors use test tubes.
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Dec 12, 2013 19:22
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BetterLekNextTime posted:From last page- don't remember if anyone replied to this but just saw this on CanonRumors. Apparently the new firmware in the 5D3 checks for authentic Canon batts, nominally to avoid "counterfit" batteries but apparently affecting other 3rd party replacement batteries as well. (your link goes to a New Reply). http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/12/eos-5d-mark-iii-third-party-batteries/ I read something on petapixel about Nikon doing the same thing.
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Dec 12, 2013 21:58
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BrosephofArimathea posted:- a tele prime or zoom: 135L or some flavour of 70-200, I guess. I really liked the 85mm length on aps-c. I bought the 70-200L (non IS) last summer ($1300ish) and it's a great lens though it struggles in lowlight and makes me wish I had saved and gotten the latest IS version. The 135 ($980) is great if you have the room to maneouver with it it's sharp as hell even wide open. I'm always happen when I am in a setting that I can use it.
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Jan 3, 2014 22:49
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bisticles posted:You're damned right about the 135mm. Finally got a chance to do a portrait session with it this weekend and was really happy with the color & contrast rendering, plus just the magic that it does with people's faces. The AF. Should have been more specific, I was at 200mm and a good ~75-80 feet from the stage. I was at 2.8, 1/100th / 3200 and still a stop overexposed. Thinking back on it, there was a light purple light and everything was washed out in that light. Kind of flat, so perhaps there wasn't enough contrast to find something on which to focus? Maybe a problem with focusing to infinity? Once I went back to manual, I didn't have a problem.
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Jan 7, 2014 23:12
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triplexpac posted:Speaking of L lenses... triplexpac posted:Is that the Sigma 50 ART or just the standard 1.4? I had the 50 f/1.4 for years and loved it. Then decided to get the 50 1.2 when there was a $200 instant rebate, so it was only ~$1,400 from B&H. Both lenses suffer from the same problems with back focusing in low light / contrast, but I think the color and contrast of the 1.2 is much better than the 1.4. Also, I don't have to worry about if it strikes something given the build quality. But why not rent them for the weekend and see which one you like better? http://www.flickriver.com/lenses/canon/canonef50mmf14usm/ http://www.flickriver.com/lenses/canon/canonef50mmf18ii/ http://www.flickriver.com/lenses/canon/canonef50mmf12lusm/ http://www.flickriver.com/lenses/sigma/sigma50mmf1.4exdghsm/ http://www.flickriver.com/lenses/
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Jul 22, 2014 21:36
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Bob Mundon posted:Found a deal today that would let me trade from a t3i to a 5D classic. Down the road I'd like to upgrade from that as well, but in the meantime if I have several lenses I can still use with it and I don't use video, would that be a downgrade at all? You won't be able to use EF-S lenses with a 5D and the 5D does not have video (that was introduced with the 5D2). So if you have the 18-55mm, 55-250mm EF-S lenses they wouldn't be compatible with the 5D.
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Dec 1, 2014 18:20
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CrushedWill posted:Not sure if the thread creator is still around (or cares), but shouldn't the 7D mk II be added to the wonderful OP? Yep, I'll get it updated. Haven't had much to post lately, but that should have been added.
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Jan 9, 2015 16:28
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Since I survived the last year I decided to reward myself with the new 5Ds. 5D2 with a 32g card can get over 1000 raw images. 5Ds only 404.  But that new camera smell 
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Jun 17, 2015 00:22
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annapacketstormaya posted:Just like burning money! So true! somnambulist posted:I'm jealous, how do you like it so far? I'm definitely getting one at some point. dorkasaurus_rex posted:Post JPEGs immediately. I haven't been able to shoot yet. lovely weather + just getting out of surgery and resting hasn't given me a lot of time :/
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Jun 20, 2015 16:03
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Bubbacub posted:A 50mp image of a surgical scar might be kinda cool It's already planned  The whole surgery / incision lines have given me an idea for a photo series which may be tough to accomplish but hopefully interesting if I find enough people who have been through something similar to me
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Jun 20, 2015 22:54
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alkanphel posted:I used a 5D2, I think the center point AF was pretty good but the other outer AF points were absolutely garbage in low-light. With mine I just used center point all the time. Never bothered with the rest.
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Jun 23, 2015 02:01
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Bubbacub posted:How can dogge use DLSR without thumbs? Just set it at f/1.4 for him. so much bokeh.
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Jun 23, 2015 20:54
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Whirlwind Jones posted:Gross.   Fair warning for surgical staples.
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Jun 25, 2015 15:51
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timrenzi574 posted:dag. did you have OHS man? Twice. Last September, I caught a virus (not ebola) that caused viral cardio myopathy and killed me. I was put on a device to allow my heart to recover. Took a bit longer than I would have liked, but recover it did. I had to have surgery again earlier this month to remove the device. Thankfully through all of it I avoided a transplant, but it was leaning that way for a while. I'll never be 100% again, but I'm at 75-80% and that's fine by me.
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Jun 25, 2015 18:39
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