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What hot hatch do you own? This poll is closed. |
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| Golf GTI / R / R32 |
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196 | 0.02% |
| Impreza WRX / STi |
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133 | 0.01% |
| Mazdaspeed 3 |
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92 | 0.01% |
| Veloster Turbo |
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20 | 0.00% |
| Focus ST |
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149 | 0.01% |
| Other Hot Hatch |
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230 | 0.02% |
| Elantra GT |
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1000001 | 99.92% |
| Total: | 1000821 votes | ||
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The PP is worth it for the LSD. I don't have it and make around 300whp... lol traction. No. I basically abuse the poo poo out of the traction control anytime I look at the throttle.
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May 20, 2016 05:20
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 18:28 |
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joe944 posted:Get the DSG. The clutch on the manual is weak. Haven't really heard of any common problems though. The clutch is more an issue with the clutch delay valve. It prevents the clutch from re-engaging quickly enough that people get back on the power before the clutch is fully engaged so it's slip... plus more slip... which leads to more slip. Once you remove the delay valve all is fine. GTI is the same way. Removing the restrictor is 30 minutes all said and done going into it blind and is free / the price of brake fluid.
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May 27, 2016 04:25
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buy a dsg, it shifts faster. lap times will easily reflect this, also there are no missed shifts that could cause you to lose. honestly, people slow cars down these days
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Jun 2, 2016 02:50
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:You sure about that? Because my 2016 GTI definitely does not have hill hold assist.
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Jun 3, 2016 00:46
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Cost
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Jun 13, 2016 01:37
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fknlo posted:Oh Volkswagen What budget built turbo cars are running all aluminum blocks from the factory...? I mean, there are people making over 500whp on these things without opening the motor. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jun 13, 2016 |
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Jun 13, 2016 03:33
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Fuckin thing has no traction with 300whp, I can't imagine another 200 ontop. 
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Jun 13, 2016 05:03
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The EcoBoost 20 and 23 are all-aluminum. They both have cast iron cylinder liners. The 2.7 has CGI (iron) in the cylinder area. wolrah posted:AFAIK all of the 4 banger Ecoboosts are all aluminum, as are the 3.0 and 3.5 V6s. The 3 cylinder and the 2.7 V6 are iron block The 3.0 has cast iron liners, the 3.5 has steel liners. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Jun 13, 2016 |
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Jun 13, 2016 16:21
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:By that definition, what is actually all aluminum that's sold today? Hmm, VR38DETT, for one. Which is why I said all aluminum block turbo cars don't exist at budget prices.
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Jun 13, 2016 17:48
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I just replaced the magnesium case covers on my trackbike. I can't imagine having those somewhere on a car.... so brittle.
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Jun 13, 2016 21:10
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:It seems like you're obfuscating a bit when the comment was a cast iron block (not normal, old school) vs aluminum block (sleeved or lined however you please) - those things aren't remotely the same. Fair enough 
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Jun 14, 2016 01:25
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Installed a Curt hitch on my 2016 GTI today so that I can tow my Tuono and R6 to trackdays instead of keeping around my Ram 1500. drat thing sits 7.5" off the ground, guess that means I'm not lowering it from stock anymore.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Jul 4, 2016 |
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Jul 4, 2016 01:08
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:Installed my plates just now on my '16 GTI. I used a US Millworks front tow hook adapter and when I got to the rear, the dealer installed method is...wood screws directly into the bumper??? Seriously, VW? They didn't even get them loving level! And I don't even feel like they're secured that well because it felt like I was about to strip them and I didn't want that to happen. Yep, the bumpers don't come drilled from the factory. I drilled holes in my bumper cover, inserted plastic threaded grommets, and then bolted into those.
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Jul 30, 2016 03:18
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The Locator posted:I pay right at $100/mo for insurance for the Focus ST (2014). My commute is huge, so I'm not able to use a low mileage thing, and I carry 250k/500k limits with full glass, and rental coverage. Insurance here in the Phoenix area seems to run high in general, my base model Fiesta was almost $70/mo with similar coverage. That's also with multi-policy discount since I have homeowners with them, but not multi-car since I'm actually down to one car! I'm paying $120/mo in a 2016 GTI for the same coverage in the same city. Multi policy, full coverage on an 2007 Aprilia Tuono 1000 is $45/mo additional.
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Sep 11, 2016 22:40
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Christobevii3 posted:Do you live somewhere north? I only have a poo poo house and a car so i wouldn't have much assets at risk. Also, not many high end cars and totaling one would take me doing something really dumb. I might move up a little but a dash cam and a little more insurance should cover since how southern laws are in such situations. Scottsdale has money.
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Sep 12, 2016 05:26
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I've got 20k on my GTI with a JB1 and DP, including pulling a trailer with a motorcycle on it. I really think the keys to making the clutch last are removing the clutch delay valve, removing the clutch pedal spring, and not getting into the power until the clutch is fully out on the 1-2 shift. These cars don't like being manhandled in first, don't do it. The first and third things I listed are very, very important, if you don't both of them you will lose the stock clutch in a couple thousand miles.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Sep 22, 2016 |
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Sep 22, 2016 02:49
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DP + JB1 tunebox makes the same-ish power as a stage 1 tune and otherwise stock. Stage 2 tune and DP is much more. I like the GTI, I just towed two motorcycles 2200mi, including a lot of elevation change. 26MPG average.
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Oct 5, 2016 19:26
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Curt class 1. I recommend spending money on a hitch that clears the exhaust better and maybe sits tighter against the bottom of the car because the $140 Curt I have required me to bend the exhaust tips slightly outward (not noticeably so) to prevent them from rattling on the hitch during hard shifts and the car sits low enough at stock height that you need a ~6" rise ball mount to get a 17" trailer dead level. I'm running a ~5" rise ball mount now and it's more than fine but for being ~~ideal~~ it's a tiny bit short.  It handled beautifully, and if anything I was worried about killing the stock clutch lugging the car up the mountain passes in 6th in Nevada and NorCal since it's making a fair amount of power over stock. Not an issue. Nor was stop and go traffic. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Oct 5, 2016 |
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Oct 5, 2016 20:46
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That's the route I would go if I did it over again and didn't mind cutting the bumper.
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Oct 5, 2016 21:02
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I owned a 2002 Mini-S back in the day. The GTI feels like a grown up version of it, including quality wise.
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Oct 10, 2016 21:37
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100% Dundee posted:Do some of the higher specced ones have a different interior by any chance?
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Oct 10, 2016 22:25
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Remove the clutch pedal spring and clutch delay valve, you will be much happier and the clutch will last longer. Also, snow catcher out of the bottom of the intake box. Get a OBD Eleven and turn off the 'vibration dampening'. (read: torque limiting in lower gears) The Sport makes me regret my year and a half old 2016 4dr S.
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Oct 29, 2016 20:22
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blk posted:How many of you would own a GTI past the end of warranty? I'm pretty sure my MK7 would be solid outside of warranty... in fact I voided the warranty with under 1000mi on the car. Here we are 22k miles later without issue.
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Oct 30, 2016 23:21
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Oh man, I put the JB1 on at under 1000mi. Do a downpipe at the same time, you're picking up like 60-70whp. It's stupid seeing traction control flashing in 3rd gear when the weather is cool.
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Oct 31, 2016 01:50
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The Z4M isn't really in demand yet for some reason. I owned one of the Imola/Extended Black cars (1/38) and it took longer than I expected while selling it off as a single owner (per the title) car. My friend owns one of the Imola/Imola cars (1/37) and he got an insane deal from a dealer that couldn't move it. I'm not really sure what's going on there. To be fair, the E36 M3 has really just started climbing the past year or so, though I think that will stagnate when the euro cars are eligible for importation.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Nov 21, 2016 |
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Nov 21, 2016 19:38
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Unless we're talking aircooled porsches.
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Nov 21, 2016 21:05
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I'm selling off the stuff that used to be on my '16 GTI. JB1 with Data Cable - $300 shipped Circuit Werks Catted DP - $275 shipped 034 Motorsports Dogbone Insert v1 - $20 shipped
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Dec 5, 2016 00:12
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Oh, man, wait until you do a DP + JB4/Tune. Your S2000 is going to feel broken 
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Dec 7, 2016 19:39
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The joys of dealing with dealerships.
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Dec 7, 2016 22:38
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Eh, gently caress it, if anything it's convenience when you get the new car itch in a couple years. I owe 19k on my '16, KBB PP is ~18.5k / KBB Trade-in is ~15.5k. I've got dealers crawling up my rear end who want to go no higher than 16k so I have to deal with random people to get what I want out of it.
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Dec 8, 2016 00:49
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Forreal. A JB1 with a downpipe turns this thing around.
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Dec 8, 2016 03:24
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JollyPubJerk posted:speaking of which, what on earth kind of rims/tires do I put on a GTI now that the tune makes the thing want to slip on every start with barely tapping the gas? You're hosed. Don't bother with this thing in first, short shift into second. edit: To your edit, the big difference is in the elbow coming off the turbo.
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Dec 8, 2016 03:43
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Ah, sorry, mine is a 6MT.
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Dec 8, 2016 03:54
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fknlo posted:The finance dude at the dealership reaffirmed yesterday that it should be in the neighborhood of $21k at that point. I'll find out for sure once I get the info to set up my VW Credit account for payments. Get a 034 Motorsports dogbone insert. If you have a version 1 car then I have one for $20 shipped. Also, stop getting on it in first. You need to shortshift this car to 2nd. https://store.034motorsport.com/mqb-dogbone-mount-insert-mkvii-volkswagen-golf-gti-r-8v-audi-a3-s3-billet-aluminum.html
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Dec 8, 2016 16:28
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The issue with the Fit was probably the tires on it more than anything.
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Dec 10, 2016 01:44
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Let me save you a lot of grief. Catted or non-catted downpipe (your call) with the stock exhaust and maybe a resonator welded into the stock exhaust. You get the burbles, pops, and bangs, it's quite a bit louder than stock but not unbearable, and you get the power / spool benefits. Going full exhaust turns it into a loud piece of poo poo and gains basically no power over just a downpipe. You can increase turbo noise by removing the weatherstrip at the top of the hood, cutting out the blockoff in the intake scoops on the LHS, and filling in the turbo muffler holes. All of the intakes lose power except like the Injen EVO3000. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Dec 10, 2016 |
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Dec 10, 2016 04:17
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Radiohead71 posted:I would like to hear more on your impressions of the car. I was going to look at/maybe buy an R this week, but one side of me wants to get a GTI Sport and be done with it. The extra $14-16k for an R is really hard for me to justify. I've driven both and I liked the GTI but I loved the R. I like the Nogaro wheels on the Sport much better than the Austins on the other trim levels. Did you cross shop any other brands or GTI trim levels besides the Sport? The GTI is a good handling FWD with enough power, the Golf-R is what happens when someone is like let's add some power and AWD because we can. It doesn't handle any better than the GTI and the power difference isn't that much, especially once you see that the IS38 is literally an in place upgrade on the GTI (and it is sold outside the US as such). I paid mine off last night and will be signing the title over to the new owner once it arrives. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Dec 14, 2016 |
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Dec 14, 2016 02:44
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fknlo posted:Spending another 1.5 JB1's on one of my stupid cats again today Yup. IS38 + DP + Tune will put you north of 350whp. Read: >350whp GTI for $1.2k turbo, $800 tune, and $400 downpipe BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Dec 16, 2016 |
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Dec 16, 2016 19:01
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100% Dundee posted:Aren't the crackles and pops just them dumping fuel into the cylinders after you let off the throttle? I really enjoy those noises on big engines, but for some reason they just sound cheap, like something is broken almost, on our small 4 cylinders. There is more to it than that, what you hear on a lot of modern cars is timing retard on overrun. What you hear on older / race cars is fueling still on during overrun. GentlemanofLeisure posted:Anyone have any info about lowering a '16 GTI with DCC? BlackMK4 you seem to know a lot about the mods on these, any ideas? If not, any solid advice on places to check. Sorry man, I don't know anything about the DCC stuff.
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Dec 21, 2016 01:05
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| # ¿ May 15, 2024 18:28 |
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This is the part where I try not to be spergy because DCC doesn't change the valving, it adjusts a needle in a single valve stack that affects compression and rebound. It's kind of a weird system to me, but I come from the motorcycle end of things where you have separate valves, shim stacks, and needles for compression and rebound. http://www.my-gti.com/2653/volkswagen-dcc-adaptive-chassis-control-design-and-function BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Dec 21, 2016 |
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Dec 21, 2016 05:35
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