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What hot hatch do you own?
This poll is closed.
Golf GTI / R / R32 196 0.02%
Impreza WRX / STi 133 0.01%
Mazdaspeed 3 92 0.01%
Veloster Turbo 20 0.00%
Focus ST 149 0.01%
Other Hot Hatch 230 0.02%
Elantra GT 1000001 99.92%
Total: 1000821 votes
[Edit Poll (moderators only)]

 
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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Trans Ferdinand posted:

IOC: motion to rename forum to "Automotive Subtlety"

YOU'RE NOT MY SUPERVISOR!

Also for fucks sake, the RS is anything but subtle. Simple and clean might be better words for it, but it's not subtle.

The Type R looks like a Nick Wirth(less) design.

I'd still drive either with a shiteating grin on my face.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





veedubfreak posted:

I can't tell if these are the same or not.
https://www.discounttire.com// is the local place that will match everything I've ever found online.
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.do seems to ape even the design of the name.

They're definitely connected to each other.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





BraveUlysses posted:

nah cause then those places charge sales tax, discount tire direct has somewhat blah selection but amazing prices if you buy a set during a holiday sale

This. The rebates make it way cheaper than anyone else.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





BlackMK4 posted:

Haha, I'm running them in the front of my S2000 now (HP+ in the rear), and ran them on my 330. Bedding them at night is fun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OysFVms1KD0

I should set up some cameras next time I need to bed in brakes on my top secret closed test circuit.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Market segmentation, emissions, warranty.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





My point on the warranty is that when building the car and calculating the warranty costs, they make some determination on how likely various parts are to fail at a given power level. If they increase horsepower, they might need to upgrade other parts downstream to survive under the worst possible case over the life of the warranty.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





veedubfreak posted:

Anyone happen to use those drive safe programs through their insurance? I just installed mine today for State Farm. Get 5% off just for signing up, but they claim I can get discounted up to 50%. I assume thats for cars that never get driven. It's just a little gps device that talks to my phone via blutooth vs the OBDII devices other companies use. Wish they had told me about this poo poo last year when I quit my job. I've barely put 1500 miles on my car in a year.


I did it for my old Ranger when it first came out on Progressive, and saved 30% on it since I basically parked it for most of the time. But I don't think I'd save anything with them now so I don't use them.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





It's a hatch, it just keeps the engine back there. Just gotta make it hot :getin:

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





BraveUlysses posted:

i'm definitely not going to do it, just interesting to see what happens when you replace a stock one with a higher quality one

I'm having a lot of trouble wrapping my head around two things here:

1) Why the hell did it make more power?

2) How is it that VW, of all companies, has come up with a way to make a front pulley just bolt on instead of a press fit?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





PT6A posted:

With a limited slip differential, the difference in speeds between the two wheels is limited, so power will be transferred to the wheel which has more traction if one wheel loses traction.

All of the engineering magic goes into making a differential that will do this, without compromising its behavior in a turn, and do so reliably with relatively little maintenance.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Cost, mostly. They're much more complex than a few spider gears in an open differential.

A large number of modern cars can fake it anyway. Now that ABS can brake each wheel individually, it just takes some extra programming to use the computer and brakes to slow down a wheel on an open differential that is trying to lose traction. The big downside here is that in prolonged and frequent use, brake wear goes up dramatically.

And yes, there's a benefit aspect to it too. My old NB Miata had an open differential, but it had so little power and so much mechanical grip that it was still very difficult to light up one tire in a street situation. My C10, with loads of power and no weight over the stiffly spring rear, will smoke one tire anytime I want it to (and sometimes when I don't).

IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Mar 18, 2018

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





dissss posted:

There are a hell of a lot of what I'd call medium to high powered cars that don't have them either but really should - stuff like the 5-series or Infiniti G37

Those are the exact kind of cars I would expect to fake it with brakes. The W210 E-class had it twenty years ago.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Rhyno posted:

I drove my friend's Mazda2 today and man, gently caress Mazda for not making a hot version of that.

I know, right? Even with thirty hamster power it's a shitload of fun.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





BlackMK4 posted:

I'm biding my time until CTRs come off lease and I can get one <$30k... until then I am looking for a 2nd gen manual Fit for around $8k so I can drive out to a GridLife event and do the Sundae Cup.

I never knew this was a thing and now I'm going to start watching Fits on Craigslist.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Suburban Dad posted:

Read the fine print on the loan terms, shouldn't even need to mention poo poo to the dealer.

Yeah, just read the docs. I think early payment penalties are actually illegal in a lot of states now.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Also, CPO is largely bullshit.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





It's possible, but not guaranteed that you damaged it. The people this usually happens to are the ones who sit there at the pump every time, clicking the lever over and over until it won't dispense anything.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





PT6A posted:

Honestly, the crash tests should be done in a way that's documented secretly beforehand, and applied consistently against all cars, but changes yearly without warning.

You can't game the test if you don't know what the test is going to be. Same thing with mileage. Just come up with a random test every year, test all the cars, then reveal what the test actually was after the fact. As long as cars are being compared against each other on the same metric, it's completely fair.

The only problem here is that results between years wouldn't be comparable at all.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Bank posted:

I checked out the car in the parking lot before out appointment and it's definitely got signs. Tons of tiny rock chips in the front, front tires have edge wear etc..the only things missing are his numbers and a helmet in the backseat. I have zero interest in taking on more car maintenance so I'll have to pass. Oh well, it was too good to be true.

Even a non-tracked MS3 is a maintenance-hungry motherfucker.

At $5k I'd still be tempted, today, to buy another.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Tires, tires, tires. Granted I was putting 20k miles a year on mine but it ate a set of tires every year. Also had EGR problems, throttle body failure (an early 07 problem only), shifter cables, pivot seal, sway bar links, wheel bearings (which also involved a new knuckle, hub, and CV)

Mine was nearly bone stock the majority of the time I owned it, and the few mods I did do were quality of life improvements I should have done much earlier - engine mounts in particular. I also never did, but wish I did, tune out the EGR / put in a catch can to reduce the intake valve buildup.

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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





GentlemanofLeisure posted:

First thing I'll check when I get home tonight is the battery, and I'll see if I can start it with my booster pack once it's charged. Is there anything else easy I may be missing? Seems like if the battery still had enough juice to kick all my electronics and a/c on, it would at least try to turn over.

Orders of magnitude difference in power requirement. I've seen many a dead battery where the dome light / blower motor / dash all works fine when you first hop in, but as soon as you attempt to crank it all shuts off.

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