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What hot hatch do you own?
This poll is closed.
Golf GTI / R / R32 196 0.02%
Impreza WRX / STi 133 0.01%
Mazdaspeed 3 92 0.01%
Veloster Turbo 20 0.00%
Focus ST 149 0.01%
Other Hot Hatch 230 0.02%
Elantra GT 1000001 99.92%
Total: 1000821 votes
[Edit Poll (moderators only)]

 
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wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
I drove my boring hatch ('13 Soul+ 6M) to a Ford dealer on a whim because I was bored and a hot hatch ended up coming home with me. I wasn't planning on doing anything just yet, my intent was to wait until the spring, but they made me a deal I couldn't refuse to get out of the lease which was a major plus since I was on track to be way over mileage.



Loving it so far. It's not much faster in a straight line but turns like nothing I've ever driven before (including the BMW in the background which has Potenza RE-01Rs on it). I thought some weirdness I was having with my Bluetooth was the fault of my phone and the custom ROM I run, but it works just fine with MFT so I guess it must have just been Kia doing something stupid in their base head unit.

I wish I could have gotten the Recaros, but I drove a FoST with them a few months back and they felt tight on my 6'1"/200lb rear end so I figured the FiST's narrower seats would be a total no-go without me losing a lot of weight. Maybe a future upgrade.

I've been looking around but I haven't yet been able to find a clear picture of what the hole looks like that the antenna package goes in. I want to move my CB setup over from the BMW but I don't yet want to take a drill to my brand new car, so I'm hoping it's a good size/shape that I can rig an NMO mount in to it once my Sirius trial expires.

wolrah fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Jul 23, 2015

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wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
Mine does the same thing as in the video and I hate it when trying to go 2->6 after having a bit of fun off the line but staying under the speed limit. January 2015 build date with the weird redline.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

fyodor posted:

lol seriously why are you shifting from 3rd to 6th lmao

Because you're done accelerating and see no purpose in pointlessly shifting two more times to get to the gear you want to be in? It's not a sequential gearbox, why shouldn't I want to skip gears?

Second gear is enough for any legal speed on a surface street and third will get you well in to ticket territory on most highways in the world. If you're bored and screwing around flooring it off from a light or up an onramp you'd run hard through first, second, and maybe third, then you're at the speed you want to be at and are going plenty fast for sixth gear. Why not go right there rather than popping in to fourth and fifth just to pop right back out?

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Your first quote explains the problem. It's not like I'm trying to slam the car in to 6th, I know how a manual transmission works and try to slip it in to gear when the revs are at the appropriate point. This stupid "feature" makes that a lot harder to do because you have to wait out the computer. If it didn't do the rev hold it'd be down to a matching speed in around a second.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

GutBomb posted:

I let a co-worker who is not really a car guy drive my FiST at lunch time. I just walked past his desk and he's on the Ford website optioning one out for himself.

These cars really do sell themselves, don't they? A friend of mine rode with me to the bar one night a few weeks ago, then a day or two later he calls and had apparently bought the one I test drove before buying mine (it has the sunroof and nav, neither of which I wanted).

He's a photographer and one of my housemates is detailing his car this weekend, so we'll probably head up to the lake shore afterward and get some photos of our near twin cars.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

opengl128 posted:

My car, when its 60+ out, maybe 10-15 minutes. In the winter, at least 20 minutes.

That's...much longer than I expected.

My usual rule has been to drive like a total granny until the coolant temp is reading something, then just drive like a normal person until the coolant is at normal temp, then wait another 2-3 minutes before doing anything exciting. With the FiST in warm weather that's been 5-6 minutes at most.

I guess I need to get an oil temp gauge.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

GutBomb posted:

you can get an aftermarket stereo (which Subaru is actually pretty good about making easy) that has carplay for $400.

If the WRX is similar to the BRZ in that way I'm pretty sure the OEM head unit could be found right off the shelf at Best Buy. It looked like a generic double-DIN unit and was labeled as one of the common brands.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
I haven't driven a Mk7 Golf but I've been led to believe by those who have that even with the new platform and increased size that it drives and in general feels similar to the Mk5 and Mk6 which I do have experience with.

If that is the case, the FoST feels kind of half way between a stock GTI and a "Stage 1" tuned model. Maybe the new GTI's performance pack is a perfect match.

The Golf definitely feels more middle-of-the-road, which might be a good thing if you need more of a good daily you can have fun with rather than a fun car you can also daily. The ST cars lean more in the hoon direction both in styling and driving feel where a GTI feels more like Audi-lite. I think the fact that the FoST comes factory with a boost gauge in a dashboard mounted pod says a lot.

Both are great cars though, so you'll really have to drive them and think about your own preferences to make a decision, I don't think either is better enough than the other to explicitly say you should get that one.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

The Locator posted:

My only real 'complaint' if you want to call it that, is because of the way it tries to manage the torque steer, it still catches me by surprise sometimes, as it's not as predictable to me as a car that just lets it happen without attempting to tame it.

I've noticed the same thing with my Fiesta. If I'm in the normal driving mode and launch hard on anything but the most perfect of surfaces it's a battle to keep the car pointed straight as the computer tries to use the EPAS to counter torque steer but ends up overdoing it and jerking the car in the opposite direction every time the tires slip. Putting it in sport mode seems to disable this "feature" and it just pulls to one side with torque steer like pretty much any other quick FWD.

Torque steer compensation is a great idea in theory, but Ford's implementation actually makes things worse IMO.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
I just installed a set of winter tires for my FiST and realized I have no idea what pressure to set them to. On previous vehicles I've run winter tires that were basically the same size as the summer tires and just used the same pressure as a result, but with this car I'm running 195/55R15s when the stock tires are 205/40R17 so I'm pretty sure the official numbers are not nearly as useful.

I know how to read excessive wear and tell if it's way off in one direction or another, but how do I figure out reasonable numbers to start with so I can avoid getting to that point in the first place? It also complicates things that my last set of winter tires were on the 50/50 balanced BMW where pressures were the same front and rear, where this thing being FWD is front-heavy and runs a higher pressure up front stock.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

GutBomb posted:

Last year I ran the factory pressure on downsized winters and had no issues. 36 in the back and 39 in the front.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

I used factory pressure on 16" FoST winter wheels when stock is 18". I forget my exact sidewalls and widths, but there's significantly more sidewall and significantly less width than stock. No issues with wear when I took them off.

Welp, I guess laziness prevails, that's what I set 'em to initially with no better ideas.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
I haven't noticed it on my FiST where it's really obvious on my BMW. If it's there it's not nearly as restrictive.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Christobevii3 posted:

The veloster forum is hung up on catch cans, usually put two on. When they show watch they catch though it is likst 90% fuel then a mixture of condensation and oil. I would like an opinion on this. It seems it doesn't help with carbon build but they just ramble about lspi too...

Seems like a big thing in the Fiesta ST community as well, so I'm also interested in hearing people's thoughts. Is it actually doing something helpful or is what it's collecting basically a placebo?

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

The Locator posted:

Doesn't Ford Racing sell a tune dealie for the FiST like they do for the FoST that maintains the factory warranty?

http://www.mountuneusa.com/Ford-Racing-Performance-Calibration-Focus-ST-p/m-14204-fst.htm

It's not sold under the Ford Racing name, but Mountune has a warranty-safe option for the FiST called MP215.

$1229 - http://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-Fiesta-ST-MP215-Performance-Upgrade-p/2364-215-aa.htm

It seems to be roughly comparable to Cobb stage 1, and ships on an AccessPort (though the ability to change anything interesting is locked out on these units) but you're paying basically double the price plus whatever stupid amount the dealer will change to install an intake and a flash for a reduced warranty.

Back before I realized the warranty was shortened with this I was considering it, but I'm already at 12k miles so the value of a warranty that runs to 36k miles is rapidly diminishing.

They also have one for the FoST, MP275.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
I've had my FiST around 8 months now and I stalled it for the first time the other day, not even launching but coming to a stop and for whatever stupid reason my instinct failed me and my left foot stayed where it was until it was too late. I'm pretty sure that's a personal record, every other manual car I've had I had stalled once or twice at least early on while figuring it out. I don't know what voodoo magic makes for the difference but I like it.

It was a bit more embarrassing than usual to stall this though, since my hand automatically went for where the key would normally be which led to a bit of a brain reboot when nothing was there.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Don Lapre posted:

As for power a GTI you can get a JB1 piggyback and get a good 35-45hp. Its about a 15 minute install/removal and does not throw any codes like an actual tune will.

An actual tune will not throw codes. You may be thinking of flash counters being incremented. If anything a tune often disables certain codes (many "off road use only" tunes make emissions-related checks always return "OK").

Piggyback devices are actually likely to cause codes themselves. They work by faking sensor inputs to trick the ECU in to responding in a way that increases power. On a modern turbocharged car that usually means making the ECU think the car's making less boost than it actually is. There's only a certain range where the ECU will be happy though, beyond that it'll think something is wrong. If real-world variance combines with the manipulation to push sensor values outside of the acceptable range, enjoy your new CEL. Even if it doesn't exceed the limits it still has a potential for unintended consequences because the real world conditions don't match what the ECU thinks it's dealing with. For example if the car thinks it's making less boost than it actually is it'll probably also be running leaner than intended.

A proper tune on the other hand has access to accurate data from all the sensors and instead can remap the response tables to get the desired result without trickery and thus will respond to real world changes more appropriately.

Those types of things are often claimed to be undetectable for warranty purposes as well, but I have a hard time believing that. A lot of OEMs have their ECUs set up to log sensor data when they detect a major event. If you damage an engine in a way that happens with increased boost but the log shows you were making less than expected I'd be surprised if they didn't investigate further. Depending on how it manipulates the data there might even be an obvious signature. BMW at least is well known for having routines in the ECU that check the plausibility of inputs in real-time and log hidden diagnostic codes that won't pop a CEL but will show up to the dealer's scanner. Not sure if VW does that yet, but it's definitely possible.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

fyodor posted:

The paranoia is at record highs in the FiST/FoST community re: secret flash counters.

I haven't heard of any secret counter talk, I know there's a "key on cycles since last flash" counter, is there supposedly something else now?



As for the detectability of these things for warranty purposes, it all comes down to what gets logged.

It's a safe bet these days that every ECU has some kind of flash counter, so unless that's been explicitly identified and defeated you should assume a flag has been set the second you flash a tune. As I mentioned earlier detecting a piggyback takes a bit more work, but if certain inputs are consistently out of the expected range again you should assume it'll be identified. The question is whether you can clear codes or disconnect the battery and clear these things out (which from a quick skim seems like is possible with the BMW "shadow codes" at least) or whether it writes to some nonvolatile memory that doesn't normally get cleared (or e-fuse which can't ever be cleared).

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
How's the drone on the MBRP exhaust? I want a bit more noise but I spend a lot of time on the highway and don't want anything crazy. If the motor hadn't blown up two months in I probably would have swapped my Probe back to stock, the magnaflow exhaust the PO had put on it was horrible at 80 MPH. Everything else I've owned has had stock exhaust so I don't really know what I'm looking for other than the generic "more noise when I'm on it, but not enough to be annoying when putting around".

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5vTsz1huTA

Fourth: If the driver you're drafting isn't paying enough attention themselves or has poo poo happen right in front of them, they may make a last-second emergency maneuver around something. Stopped traffic, debris, construction, animal in the road, etc. If you don't have an opening next to you you're gonna have a bad time.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
Closing in on a year with mine, 18000 miles, and same. Everything's still as solid as it was from the factory, my only odd noises come from the random poo poo I have in the door pockets rattling and I can't hardly blame that on the car. OEM tires will more likely than not last through the season without trouble and my brakes were fine when I changed from the winters a month or so ago.

I don't track the car but I'm far from nice to it. A friend of mine bought the one I test drove and his feels as solid as mine still even though he does light off-roading every day for work. I think you just got unlucky.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

GutBomb posted:

why bother shifting with the paddles on the street when the computer will just do it for you?
Because you can see what's coming up on the road, you know where you're planning to turn, etc. You know you need to downshift before the car does. They've probably tweaked things since then, but when my friend had a Mk5 GTI with the DSG there were even a few times where I was upshifting earlier than it would have. Drag racing in particular, "S" mode was actually worse than normal D, it would hit the rev limiter every gear. Manually shifting about 500 RPM before the computer would got the best times.

I think BMW's got some kind of connection between the nav system and the transmission on the 7 series that makes it anticipate the need to downshift, but I haven't seen anyone talking about doing that on anything performance-oriented.

I agree that manual is better if the goal is fun rather than numbers, but if I had to have an automatic in a hatchback the wet-clutch DSGs are some of the best out there.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

RIP Paul Walker posted:

I really want a Fiesta ST with a well-programmed torque converter auto, traffic can gently caress itself and this is a daily (I sometimes regret getting a manual Focus)
I can totally understand wanting an auto of some sort, but why in the world would you want a hot hatch to have a torque converter? A DCT will be a better fit in pretty much every way. Hot hatches are supposed to be a bit manic, so the effectively instant shifts and slightly rougher operation are more appropriate IMO than a slushbox.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Mariana Horchata posted:

If you are set on a Focus ST or RS then remember that the RS is still very new and you will be hard pressed to find one without a ridiculous "market adjustment" added to the price...whereas the ST is plentiful both new and used and you will most likely get one for a great price if you put in the effort.

I have quite a few times seen FoSTs for the same price as or even occasionally less than FiSTs. The dealer I bought my FiST from had three FoSTs on the lot and was willing to do only $500 more for a comparable model.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

RIP Paul Walker posted:

Focus has it standard, Fiesta doesn't have it as an option on any trim level

Incorrect, rear view camera and backup sensors are standard on Titanium trim Fiestas. For whatever reason they decided not to offer it on STs, nor is retrofitting a trivial matter like it should be.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

fknlo posted:

The R still has an iron block?

Yup, the VW 2.0T is an iron block with aluminum heads.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:

The EcoBoost 20 and 23 are all-aluminum.

AFAIK all of the 4 banger Ecoboosts are all aluminum, as are the 3.0 and 3.5 V6s. The 3 cylinder and the 2.7 V6 are iron block

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Christobevii3 posted:

How hasn't he killed someone or lost his license yet?
He's discussed this on the TST podcast a few times, basically it comes down to knowing where the cops tend to patrol and filming these segments at times when they aren't out looking for people doing this. Early morning on a weekday for example. He says he gets most of his tickets while going to/from filming locations for boring things like 10 over on the highway.

As for not killing someone, if you watch enough one take videos you'll notice he tends to run downhill first, so any cyclists he encounters will be going faster thus reducing the closing speed and allowing him more room to slow down or maneuver around them, and he makes note of the ones going uphill to look out for on the return run.

blk posted:

Did anyone see what his Delorean sold for on BAT?
$52,000

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Sigma X posted:

No, you can't turn off the braking LSD stuff. Not without disabling the central control/logic unit for all the stability/traction control/etc features in the car. Not really safe.

How's it not safe? Obviously no electronics to save your rear end, but as long as we're talking about actual track use I don't really see a problem, especially at our power levels. It's not like some of the big number cars where the electronics are basically required to ensure that most of their owners don't die in a fiery wreck the first time they floor it.

On the street of course anyone who intentionally has ABS disabled is a dumbass. The factory modes are perfectly fine for anything reasonable on public roads.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Residency Evil posted:

Wait you can lease a Focus RS? For 750/month!? People don't actually do this right?

He explained it on his podcast, Ford Leasing won't do RSes but he found a bank that would. Leasing makes sense for him for tax reasons, I guess he can write off pretty much the entire payment rather than just part. He leased the Fiesta ST they had previously as well.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
My fan is running pretty much constantly when the outside temperature is over 80. AC is almost always set to 72 though, so there's that. I've seen it get in to the 220s on OBD2, but that was on a hot day after 20 minutes or so of hard driving.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
If you have access to a 3D printer here's one for the FiST: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1369818

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Mariana Horchata posted:

got 15k mi on my FiST now and the rear brakes are already due and down to 3-4mm (and fronts both at 6mm), is this normal?

:stare:

I have 24k miles on mine and it's definitely going to need brakes before 30 but drat.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
It is generally preferred to do your first oil change immediately after break-in, because the break-in process results in a significantly increased amount of junk in the oil.

Will it hurt anything to run out to the first normally scheduled oil change? Probably not. Does it cut down on early wear to do the first change early? Probably.

Your call, but it's not like oil changes are expensive.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

PaintVagrant posted:

My fist is dirt cheap to insure. Insurance card calls it "fiesta station wagon" :lol:

$400/6mo here to insure my "Ford Fiesta 4D"

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
I finally had a chance to get up close with a blue RS in daylight today, holy crap is that sparkly.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
I really want to know how this one was done:



I'd like to be able to use a large bike rack and maybe tow a small (like single lawnmower size) trailer but I don't want anything hanging below the bumper.

Unfortunately I've looked intermittently since getting the car but still haven't managed to find any more details than this one photo.

Otherwise your research matches mine, all the normal Fiesta hitches fit, though they may require minor trimming on the bumper cover and/or stiffer exhaust hangers.

RIP Paul Walker posted:

I know it's sacrilege, but I hope Ford pairs a powerful engine with a good torque converter automatic in the new Fiesta.
Either a good torque converter or a proper wet DCT. Has anyone yet managed a dry DCT that isn't bad? I don't think so.

I liked my friends GTI DSG a lot, but hated another friend's Focus PowerShift. Haven't heard anything good about other dry DCTs like VW's small one (not in the US AFAIK) or the Fiat one in the Dart.

That said at this point ZF and others have proven TC autos can be done well enough that DCT complexity/cost isn't worth the trouble when you're not going for ultimate performance.

wolrah fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Nov 29, 2016

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Dr.Caligari posted:

I know the ST will look a bit different, but I'm not liking the picture above. They will probably keep the 1.6T, right?

The current ST-Line models (the watered down ones only offered in Europe) basically have the same front ends as the real STs minus the badging, though they have a more base-like rear end without the spoiler or center exhaust in the case of the Focus, so it's probably a safe bet that the next Fiesta ST will follow the same basic trend and the ST-Line model they previewed is basically what it'll look like.

As for the engine, the 1.6 is being replaced with the 1.5 in a lot of models so that's not unreasonable to expect. It's apparently the same basic block, destroked to fit Chinese tax regulations, with a new head that uses the "headifold" integrated manifold design like the Focus. Power numbers are quoted as basically the same, but I don't know what impact the changes will have on mod potential if the FiST ends up going that way.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
Might be interested if I stick with 17s myself, though I'm not 100% sure just yet about black wheels on a black car since I like a bit of contrast. I really wanted to get the grey wheels.

Speaking of though, I swapped to my winter tires today and found that my front tires were getting pretty close to the wear bars, so I have to plan to get new ones in the spring. Since the stock size doesn't really have much of a selection how many of the FiST owners here are running something non-standard and if so what/how do you like it?

I'm leaning towards the Dunlop Star Specs in 215/40R17 just for simplicity's sake. I'd like to run Potenza RE-11s since I loved the RE-01Rs I had on my BMW but their smallest 17" size is 205/45R17 which is a bit more of a change in diameter than I'd prefer. Or I could go to 16s, but I really don't like most aftermarket wheels.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Three-Phase posted:

I recently traded my Fit Sport because it handled horribly on the roads around here.

Not necessarily the cars fault but the roads are in awful condition in Ohio. You felt everything.

Is the Fit Sport particularly stiff? Aside from a couple of particularly bad roads (Marginal south of the Shoreway for example) they never really bother me in the FiST.

edit: http://www.wkyc.com/news/investigations/ne-ohio-roads-among-the-worst-in-country/292037788

Welp, I guess I'm easy to please. I learned to drive on gravel roads, maybe that set my bar low.

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wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

TheWevel posted:

Am I reading this right? You guys are shocked that your American compact car has high depreciation?

The Fiesta ST depreciates like a 7 series. It is kind of absurd.

There was one sitting at a used car dealer near me basically all year, identical to mine (2015, black, solid roof, no nav, normal seats) with 16,000 miles, listed for $16,999 which I saw get test driven exactly once and was still there up until the dealer moved a few weeks ago. I haven't been by their new location but if they don't still have it they probably sent it to auction.

I buy my cars with the expectation that I'll drive them until they drop so I don't really care, but I can see how that'd be a problem for a lot of people.

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