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Chef De Cuisinart posted:No, shuns and globals are terrible overpriced knives. Care to elaborate? They may be overpriced but are not terrible, unless I am completely missing something here.
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Jul 3, 2013 02:31
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Well, shuns aren't terrible, they are good knives. But there are many Japanese manufacturers that produce much higher quality knives at the same price. How do other Japanese knives feel compared to say, shuns? I grip with my thumb and index finger on the heel of the blade, so Shuns feel really comfortable to me. I will never be able to feel how some of these obscure brands feel without first buying them. Do you have any tips or suggestions or anything?
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Jul 3, 2013 02:44
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No Wave posted:I made a few borosilicate honing rods. You actually made glass honing rods? From raw silica and other stuff? If so, I would really like to see your oven setup
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Jul 31, 2013 05:43
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Oxford Comma posted:Here is a video of a guy in NY who makes $500 knives. Its not the most in-depth video as far as technique or anything, but I enjoyed it: Alton Brown likes this guy, so he's gotta be good.
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Sep 18, 2013 06:06
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I've read a few posts that suggest that VG-10 is notoriously difficult to sharpen. Why is this alloy more difficult to sharpen compared to other steels? Also, wouldn't that be an advantage, because the steel is harder? I'm obviously missing something here...
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Oct 10, 2013 05:43
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ironlung posted:I got a Wusthof Classic 8" as a wedding gift, as well as a Wusthof knife block with kitchen shears and honing/sharpening rod. They were NOT sold together in a set or anything like that. First of all, this is not a dumb question. Your honing rod is not a sharpener, but you corrected your mistake in that latter half of your post. You will often see people (celebrity chefs) smack the edge of the knife on the hone and slide it along quickly - this will chip your knife's edge if you don't know what you're doing. They are able to do this because they have honed the edges of tens of thousands of knives and are comfortable with the motion. Note that there are two metal nubs on your honing rod near the handle, keep them in a position that will block the blade from cutting you. Slide the knife slowly from its heel to the tip from the end of the rod towards you at an angle of ~20 degrees while keeping the edge perpendicular to the rod. Do this on both sides of the knife a few times. Voila, your knife is now honed. You should make a habit of honing your knives after you've washed them so that you know they are ready to go the next time you need them.
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Oct 11, 2013 05:55
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ironlung posted:Gotcha, thanks. And yeah, the Alton Brown method seems like it will give me the best chance of not bleeding out in my kitchen. His method works, too. Note that he is honing Shuns, which have a harder edge than your knives. When he says 15 degrees, you want 20. As long as you don't use too much force, you will be okay. If you use this method, try to maintain a mental log of its sharpness. Do the loosely folded paper cutting test every once in a while to see if your knife is dulling.
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Oct 11, 2013 07:22
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Transmetropolitan posted:Isn't a carbon steel too much for the "first serious business knife", though? I am saving up for an eventual Tojiro and (for me at least) that level of performance with stainless steel is a good trade-off given the acidic environment of the kitchen and whatnot. Taking care of Carbon steel is simply a matter of making sure it is clean and dry after you use it, which you should already be doing. The finish will get dull and ugly but that makes for a nice look, IMHO. You can get each knife for ~100 so the decision is basically: do you like shiny things or dull things? As a first big boy knife they will each cut just as well as the other out of the box. The difference comes in when you are good at sharpening and will be able to tell the difference between the steels and their hardness (edge retention). Just buy whatever you think looks the best (of the list of aforementioned 'good' Japanese knives) for however much you are comfortable paying.
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Jan 9, 2014 03:51
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GrAviTy84 posted:8 inch is soooo small tho It would probably be very uncomfortable to jump from a ~6" knife (which, in my experience, is the normal length of knives that people have) to a ~10" knife for someone who is just buying a new 'nice' knife. 8" is a great place to start if you are testing the waters and would like to get into the knife game a bit more seriously. I stepped up from a cheapo 6" knife and bought a Shun 8" a few years ago. It took me a while to get used to the extra 2" and I don't regret not buying a larger knife at all (except when I was breaking down a butternut squash).
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Jan 9, 2014 05:23
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Boris Galerkin posted:Wait I just wash my knife and then let it air dry on the drying rack. Why do I need to explicitly dry my DP? (Yeah I know you were talking about carbon knives at first but then you said it's what everyone should be doing.) To keep your knife as sharp as possible, you should minimize its time outside of a location where it could be damaged. So, after using it, you should clean it, dry it with a towel, and put it back in its home, whether it be a knife block, magnetic bar, or whatever. You can let your stainless knife air dry, but are you sure something stupid/accidental won't happen to it? So no, you don't need to dry it off, but it is a ten second step that definitely cannot hurt.
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Jan 9, 2014 07:29
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You don't have to cut through the wishbone at all. Make some slices above it to find it, then rip it out by hand.
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Feb 9, 2015 08:00
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There was some Bob Kramer chat a while ago, which reminded me to take some data the last time I used my dad's knives. Time to report. My dad has two of those Bob Kramer made my Henckels knives (7" santoku and 6" chefs) and I wasn't a big fan of either. For the 7" santoku, the rivet on the right side nearest to the blade sticks out *just* enough that it kept chafing my middle finger. The rest of the rivets and handle are satisfactory. It isn't completely smooth, but none if it is distracting except for the aforementioned rivet. The santoku is very heavy at 240 g and the balance point is at the back end of the brass collar (maybe 1/2 inch back from where the steel starts). This wasn't comfortable for me, but it may be for you. Compare this to my 8" Shun chef's knife, which has a mass of 207 g and the balance point is right about where the heel meets the handle. The 6" chef knife doesn't have any rivet problems, but the blade is a bit wonky. It looks like a 15 degree angle on both sides, but the angle isn't centered. It looks like a check mark if you can imagine that. Overall, for $300 a knife, I think it is too much money considering the QC problems. Yeah, sure, maybe he should have returned them as soon as he got them. I know that they are separate knives purchased a few months apart, so maybe these were just some bad apples. Even if they were finished nicely, I still wouldn't pay that much for them because they are both so loving heavy. They're awkward to handle because they want to tilt back into your hand which makes cutting feel weird. I can get some more detailed info on those knives if you want, just let me know.
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Dec 21, 2015 10:38
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Steve Yun posted:I was just listening to the Cooking Issues podcast and there was an episode where Dave Arnold mentioned that Japanese knives often have an asymmetrical bevel I suspected that might be the case. I just thought it was a bit odd that the chef's knife had the asymmetry but the santoku's edge was even.
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Dec 21, 2015 22:38
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deimos posted:Was it urasuki or just a normal asymmetric grind (back bevel)? Neat geometry there, but I don't think that's what it was. I'll take a closer look and post some pictures in a few days.
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Dec 23, 2015 01:59
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I need to buy a knife for my brother as a wedding present. He wants: ~8", stainless (carbon core would be okay, just not entirely carbon), Western handle, and it can't be plain steel - he wants Damascus or dimples or something unique. Do any of you have suggestions? Under $200 would be ideal, but I can push that a bit.
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Mar 5, 2016 04:15
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:As far as something that would be a step up from the Shun and under $150 this Takamura 210mm Gyuto is very good and on sale right now, I know a number of people who have gotten this knife and have been very happy with it, it's a very pretty knife too. I bought the Takamura for my brother's wedding gift and played around with it a bit before I sent it to him. It is significantly lighter than the 8" Shun classic that I use and is much sharper out of the box. If I ever manage to destroy my Shun, I will buy that Takamura without any hesitation.
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Sep 15, 2016 05:06
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