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Please take out Deimos' review. It's not that they're bad suggestions, it's that it reads like HERE'S WHAT TO DO OK while leaving out pertinent context and information. Sandpaper is a great alternative to a water stone. Buy nice sandpaper though. I recommend eagle. The resin and alum oxide on those are superior quality. My theory about why sandpaper isn't more popular in the kitchen is because people aren't cleaning their sandpaper with rubber and it gets loaded with swarf (A drill bit is fluted to remove chips, if it weren't there, that drill isn't going anywhere no matter how sharp it is). Swarf removal is important. If you've got the budget for it, buy a stationary belt sander or grinder, that's how guys who make knives remove the metal stock from their blank in the first place. Actually forget that, that's how the rest of the world sharpens their HSS. You can mark an angle right on the rest or clamp a guide rail to it. A belt sander can be bought at Harbor Freight for 30 bucks with a coupon. Sandpaper belt grit stops at 400, which leaves the edge jagged, but is fine for most people. For reference, metalworkers grind their lathe bits on 120 grit grinding wheels and surface grind accurately within a thousandth of an inch. Sandpaper sheets though, can go up to 8000. I've seen 30,000 grit wet stones. Here's a helpful chart http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a250/azjoe/NortonGrit-sizeChart.jpg deimos posted:- Get an Edge Pro Set with either Shaptons or Choseras (you can also get a fake edge pro on ebay) I buy diamond crystals that come in powder form to sharpen my stuff. I just keep a bunch of 3x5 mild steel plates and mix some with acetone and rub the business end against the slurry. After a while it becomes embedded in the metal, I think. Eventually the metal that's removed disintegrates. It's not the best method, but it's cheaper than sandpaper in the long run. I buy $10 vials of 1-5 micron, 5-10, 10-20, 20-40, 50-60. Cleanliness is essential because contamination becomes a problem. porcellus fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jul 2, 2013 |
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Jul 2, 2013 22:44
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No Wave posted:Oh man please do. It is humid as fck in Boston and my moritaka is giving me a headache. It's covered in mustard right now. Yeah, any flat substrate will work, plexiglass to a lovely scrap of wood it depends on the quality you want, but you don't have to hunt down a mousepad at the thrift store for one. If you have an eraser, that would work in a jiffy, anything that looks like a crepe sole, just rub it off before your sandpaper gets too glazed with metal and that expensive sheet will last a lot longer. It gets heated with more friction and the resin holding sandpaper starts acting up. You can find quality sandpaper at a detailing or auto shop. I wouldn't follow my example if I were anyone else, but, I used to ghetto rig my buffer to be held in a vice and attach sandpaper discs to the pad. It's not because I think it's some great clever way, I just happen to use a buffer for work. I guess it does have the added benefit of being 600 rpm. Attach a canvas buffing wheel with abrasive wax compound and now it's a strop. Now I use 3"x5" blanks of steel I've flattened by hand scraping and diamond powder. I keep them in separate plastic containers and clean between grits. One thing I haven't seen discussed is the use of diamond polishing pads (used extensively to polish granite shops) for sharpening. But yeah, just don't think to hard about this or take some schmuck like me on the internet for the truth. Proceed with caution: knives, HAM radio and guns are where men tend to channel their neurosis, collective wisdom tends to be skewed, it's easy to be led astray and confused. It's not really the high precision hoopla people on the internet make it out to be. I recommend just reading a book about sharpening and any metalworking book just because it shows how extensive the knowledge is. Woodworkers are more fanatical than cooks with knives about their chisels and handplanes so there's a lot of resources there. I haven't kept up with the latest stuff but a year back lee valley started selling films of diamond sheets. Pretty cool but expensive considering you can buy a gram of the pure stuff for just as much as a sheet. Here's Chistopher Schwartz with one 
porcellus fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Jul 3, 2013 |
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Jul 3, 2013 13:48
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deimos posted:
On page 5 he dies write that you shouldn't be using a carbon steel chisels on a diamond bench or grinding wheel which causes micro fissures because of heat. The only way this clumsy statement makes sense is if it presupposes that you're not using lubricant or maybe furiously scrubbing I've seen no evidence suggesting the thermal differential is that great that you can compare it to the level of a powered grinder, which is by the way off the charts. Here's a giant swivel jig someone made jigs that work just as well porcellus fucked around with this message at 11:35 on Jul 4, 2013 |
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Jul 4, 2013 11:30
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^^^ Benchcrafted is a pretty awesome company. There are a number of jigs you can buy that will give you a consistent angle sans curve, the ones with clamps allow you to adjust the angle by height of the blade. 1 2 34 5 Basically a binder clip with its handles taken off.  Aligning your blade to a specific angle each time is called registration. bunnielab posted:Eh, when you look at what waterstones cost an Edgepro doesn't seem so bad. Hell, I probably have three times the price of an EP in kitchen and pocket knives. use a beaker clamp for your stone. Slide your beaker clamp rod through a swivel clamp Mounted on this base.] This is just a quick scan of hardware just for perspective though. . porcellus fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 04:29
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Steve Yun posted:Couldn't a silicone baking mat do the same job? I've never thought of that one, that's pretty good one. The usual stuff around here are drawer liners, neoprene yoga mats, sleeping camp mats, close cell foam sheets..
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Jul 11, 2013 02:25
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