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Paper With Lines posted:Is the Tojiro DP mentioned as the mid range chef's knife in op still the recommended knife for that category? As in this bad boy? thats the one. Also consider the Fujiwara FKM. Tojiros are a great bang for buck but they may need a bit of touch up out of the box. A lot of people really like the Fujiwara's too. Edit: unless you have shallow counters, I would recommend going at least 240mm. Edit 2: I may take the plunge on an ebay yanagi soon. Found a seller that does Takefu v2 (similar to shiro2), kurouchi stuff for really affordable and the spergforums seem to really like their gyuto and nakiri. GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Dec 25, 2014 |
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Dec 25, 2014 20:55
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or just get this fuckin thing http://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-TADAFUSA-Blue-Steel-Wa-gyuto-Knife-Nashiji-210mm-/381101717905 that's a crazy deal
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Dec 25, 2014 21:18
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Too small. I'm eyeing a 270mm Moritaka Kiritsuke as a birthday present next year. May try to get a custom that's a bit taller. I mostly meant for Paper With Lines who was looking at the 210 Tojiro DP. This is the yanagi I'm lookin at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-YA...e3a48c#shpCntId in 270mm. Takefu V2 steel core.
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Dec 25, 2014 23:56
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Salsa McManus posted:As far as Japanese handled knives go is Grav's recommendation of the Tojiro ITK 240mm Gyuto still standing for that style? The carbon one linked above is probably not a good idea for a first knife that isn't a $20 Kitchenware thing. the ITK is still a carbon knife so if you want to avoid carbon I wouldn't get that one. Radish's rec of the richmond looks like the only one in that price range. I'm not familiar but the reviews look good. Wa handle + stainless is kind of a hard combo to get in this price range for some reason. Looks like there's a Tanaka in Ginsan stainless at the 160bux mark but that's twice the price of the ITK you were considering.
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Dec 26, 2014 19:05
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TheJeffers posted:Got my Tojiro 240mm gyuto in today, and it's a huge step up over the Victorinox it's replacing. The choil definitely needs to be smoothed out with some sandpaper, but I'll live for now. The stock edge is quite good, but I definitely want to see what this blade can do after some time on some water stones. nice! congrats. yeah Tojiros are pretty renowned for needing a bit of touch up out of the box, at least for knife spergs. based on your photo it looks like it could probably use quite a bit of thinning behind the edge and probably a more aggressive edge, too.
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Dec 30, 2014 04:07
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Tell me why I shouldn't but this. If you don't want the kurouchi finish, bluewayjapan has them without: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-Kn...=item3a95d925a6 cheaper, too. otherwise, it looks fine. gitchu one, report back. I've been eyeing one of those tojiro shiro nakiris for no other reason other than I want an excuse to buy another knife :X
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Dec 30, 2014 05:28
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Karia posted:but hopefully it'll at least give me a chance to feel D  Don't worry, you're not alone with the global hate. I for one love the feel of a good D tho  When shopping also pay attention to the blade profile. Some have more swoop to the belly others more flat, depending on how you like to use your knife it could be something you love or hate also. Many stores will have a cutting board so you can rock the knife on it and feel the profile through the belly.
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Dec 30, 2014 09:12
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I kind of want one just to see how reactive it is. My Moritaka is pretty reactive but it's not really that big of a deal if you keep it wiped down. Part of me wonders if the knifespergs are overreacting a smidge. then again a Tanaka is blue #2 and in the same price range so, idk, shirogami seems better suited to things where you really really need a keen edge all the time like yanagibas and sujihikis. Veg prep like nakiris seem like a more durable steel would serve better. edit for link to tanaka http://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-Ta...=item2edb875708 GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Dec 31, 2014 |
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Dec 31, 2014 00:05
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also: anyone ever try the wokshop cleavers? http://wokshop.stores.yahoo.net/vegcleav.html theyre way cheaper than CCKs, but CCKs are now 60bux and honestly that's ridiculous.
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Dec 31, 2014 00:16
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they also have other cleavers, too http://wokshop.stores.yahoo.net/carsteelclea.html
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Dec 31, 2014 02:46
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Yeah, that's about right. Victorinox is a great knife which is why it is recommended so often as a first knife for people getting into it. They greatly oversimplify carbide and grain though. There isnt just stainless and carbon, there are hundreds of specific alloys of each, from lovely cheap 440 stainless to fancy vg10 and molybdenum vanadium alloys. Likewise in carbon steel. There is cheap tool steel like sk5 and there are ultra pure Hitachi patented alloys like shirogami #1. Kramer uses 52100 alloy carbon steel. Its a great steel. I don't have a CI sub, so I don't know what else they tested against but I didn't recognize any of the ones that I would go up to after a victorinox (takeda, moritaka, masakage, masamoto, gesshin etc). I don't even think there was a single wa handle knife on there so I would be hesitant to say $300 or bust. Takeaways are yes victorinox owns. They are right that it is more than just the label "carbon steel" that matters, heat treating, alloy choice, etc all play a factor. If you're a push chopper though that belly on the Kramer would be annoying as poo poo.
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Jan 7, 2015 09:30
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Re: steepness of angle vs edge durability. To some extent you can have the best of both worlds with a micro bevel
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Jan 8, 2015 18:59
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If you're going to drop the dough on a nice board, I'd get end grain. Boardsmith boards are the most recommended in knifespergland but they are quite q bit more than that one you linked.
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Jan 11, 2015 23:47
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Caddrel posted:End grain sounds nice, but if durability is the same I'd be happy with edge grain. Durability is a bit better actually, because end grain "heals" as you cut into it because of the grain structure.
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Jan 12, 2015 06:10
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Benchcrafted mag bloks own if you are looking for a pretty solution. Otherwise, edgeguards and the drawer works fine. Edit for links http://benchcrafted.com/Magblok.html Messermeister 10" Chef's Edge-Guard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9CJOU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_gJkTub0S5R216 GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Jan 13, 2015 |
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Jan 13, 2015 06:06
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yeah. fwiw the benchcrafted also comes in a longer version which is cool if you need it. I might grab one of these though for holding shears and pinbone tweezers and stuff, thanks for linking!
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Jan 13, 2015 19:15
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guppy posted:Hone the knife before each use. Sharpening depends more on how much you use it and what you use it for, others can correct me but as a home chef I think it's very unlikely you need to sharpen more often than once a month, if that. I think it depends more on what you're cutting and what your cutting board is. If you're using bamboo or scraping bones and stuff youll probably need to sharpen more often.
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Jan 13, 2015 20:54
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Depending on how rough your bark is, and if you feel like giving a poo poo about upkeep, a yanagi might work. You will probably have to baby it apart from that though, and you will have to take it to a place that can handle uraoshi sharpening (or learn yourself). and it will probably be out of your price range, too. you can get a moritaka custom yanagi. These are a misnomer, moritaka yanagis are actually double beveled so theyre technically sujihikis. Ask for a 360mm if you want 14" though that is a pretty hilarious length. This guy is probably SK5 but for beef it's probably fine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sakai-Takay...=item1c4827aa17
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Jan 14, 2015 03:18
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you probably don't need 250 grit unless you really hosed something up. 1k grit is a good general purpose sharpening grit. I'd get a single grit 1k stone or maybe a double 1k/4k stone for finishing. wokshop.com has some good cheap cleavers.
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Jan 14, 2015 04:33
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I don't like feet on thin boards because I don't like board flex. Damp towel works great for nonslip in that regard. Thicker boards, sure.
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Jan 21, 2015 08:13
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E-Money posted:So maybe I'm just not that great at internetting but I'm not seeing the CCK small cleaver available from a ton of places. Looks like chefsknivestogo has it for around $70. Is there a common online vendor that sells them that I'm missing? Seeing lots of other cleavers and am happy to take suggestions if the OP is just out of date and there is a new hotness floating around. CCK is still where it's at but the internets have driven demand up like mad and they are no longer the great deal at $30 they used to be.
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Feb 3, 2015 23:26
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get a yanagiba, lol
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Feb 4, 2015 19:14
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Crimpanzee posted:Just got off the phone with the custom guy and welp, not terribly impressed but we may go with him anyways because of the aforementioned nostalgia factor. He charges $189 for a 6.5" blade and $225 for an 11" blade fillet knife but only works in 440 steel. yeah but the moritaka isn't a ~~true~~ yanagi since it's double beveled. Still, like 85% of people don't know that, and like 99% of people don't care
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Feb 6, 2015 01:54
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Dr Cheeto posted:Just got a set of Victorinox Fibrox knives, they seem fantastic for the price. Granted, I've been using some horrid blue-light-special Cuisinart knives since college, so any knife sharpened within the past decade would probably seem like a lightsaber to me. 1k is probably plenty. You only need lower grit for repairing chips. Ceramic honing rods are fine.
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Feb 7, 2015 19:28
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Steve Yun posted:Costco. I'd rather have a $150 gyuto, a $70 petty, and a $50 paring knife.
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Feb 24, 2015 09:06
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electricmonk500 posted:As someone who uses a gyuto for everything, what do you use the petty knife for that the paring knife can't do? Just curious. I use mine as sort of a non singletasker honesuki
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Feb 24, 2015 19:26
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I have pretty decent technique. I never cut myself when I'm really concentrating. What really happens is that I get distracted, or am in a hurry, or something and that's when mistakes happen. Humans gonna human
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Feb 24, 2015 19:39
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Anne Whateley posted:Yeah I think we're all on the same page. The question was "I'm an occasional home cool going from lovely beater knives to a sharp one, am I going to cut my hand off?" and we home cooks who've made that same upgrade are saying "you'll need to be more thoughtful to avoid nicks now." yeah, you learn just how shittily you handle knives when you make the upgrade. It doesn't take long to learn. blood for the knife god and all that
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Feb 25, 2015 03:17
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Present posted:So a steel is good for European knives made of soft steel, which curls up on account of the softness? Japanese knives generally don't curl at all, they just wear.
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Mar 2, 2015 02:40
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Moridin920 posted:The issue afaik is the grooves on most steels; they create microserrations in the edge(can't really see them with the naked eye). That's fine for a softer steel but it will cause a harder steel to chip. I've seen my aogami super moritaka (hrc 64-65) shave those grooves clear off of a honing rod. Lol
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Mar 2, 2015 03:30
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Chemmy posted:I just bought a 240mm Moritaka gyuto to try out a carbon steel knife. If it's bad I'll hold you personally responsible by being snarky on the internet. Awesome! Let me know how it is. I remember the factory edge being good but I know now I can get a way better edge myself with some work. The cladding steel can be a bit stinky at first, but it should subside with time.
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Mar 13, 2015 18:00
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Was gonna comment of how an 8" chef's is small but then noticed the bread knife is 6.5" ....
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Mar 15, 2015 17:06
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Chemmy posted:Got the Moritaka in the mail. Gravity, does yours have like a black paint like substance on the blade? Do I wash that off somehow or just use it? It's kurouchi finish. Blacksmith's scale. It is a by product of forging. It will come off on it's own over time. I wouldn't touch it. Though some people strip it off with BKF or similar.
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Mar 17, 2015 05:02
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Chemmy posted:Used it for the first time and woof. I just tore through a pile of mire poix. Awesome! Glad you like it
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Mar 26, 2015 16:22
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