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Sagebrush posted:unless you have some bizarre firmware on the mill controller or something that's gonna be 100% a setting in linuxcnc. The mill doesn't know where its center is and the steppers just spin happily around as many times as you give them a pulse. you could just try resetting the software to default values. I'm not very good with this I just started, gosh
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Mar 3, 2014 17:25
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do you usually have home set at 0,0,0 or does it not matter?
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Mar 3, 2014 17:26
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The "proper" way is to set your mill's 0,0,0 at one corner with the spindle raised up high enough that it will clear everything. Then when you program your file, you put the zero point somewhere easy to locate on the stock (eg also the lower left corner), mount the stock in the center of the travel, touch off the tool on the stock surface, and use G54 to offset your work zero to the program's part zero. This makes your code general-purpose because it's all dimensioned from a convenient nearby location instead of way down in the corner of the mill, and if you want to make multiple copies of the same part from a single big chunk of stock (or you have multiple vises mounted or whatever) you just use the G55, G56, etc offsets to set multiple other zeros.
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Mar 3, 2014 19:07
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rotor posted:do you usually have home set at 0,0,0 or does it not matter? Depends on how you like to work with it. Most people will prefer bottom left corner of your work area. Are you talking about software or machine zero?
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Mar 3, 2014 19:49
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machine zero
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Mar 3, 2014 21:51
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i think??
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Mar 3, 2014 21:51
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When you set up linux CNC, you give it a table size. When you power it up, you home the machine (either using limit switches, hard stops, or eyeballing one end of the travel). You tell linuxcnc that this is home, and then it sets up soft limits based on table travel. I think there is a menu to remove the home so that you can move it to the right corner and reestablish home.
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Mar 4, 2014 19:38
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How would one go about machining a piece with vertical features ~3/8" in depth when the DoC on my available end mills is only 1/8"? I've just started learning about machining, but I expect the answer is either "you can't" or "get a 5-axis mill  ". Everyone I've talked to so far hasn't been able to give me an answer.For reference, these are the parts I intend to make. I figure delrin will make a better bearing than ABS. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:217274 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:217181
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Mar 7, 2014 04:51
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Do you have a grinder and a steady hand? Relieve the shank of the endmill ~.015" in diameter above the flutes to 3/8" length. That will keep the shank from rubbing as you cut the lower parts. Or buy a longer endmill.
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Mar 7, 2014 05:05
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oxbrain posted:Or buy a longer endmill. Yeah - any reason why you don't just do this?
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Mar 7, 2014 08:04
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CrazyLittle posted:Yeah - any reason why you don't just do this? Because the sites I've been shopping on (mcmaster and thinktink) don't offer them. To get that extra length I'd need to bump up the cutter diameter, and that causes horizontal clearance issues. I've found all of one that might work, but I need to check back with my contact on mill tolerances because it's so close to the width of the cut it needs to make. The problem area is on the second part, and it's a combination of the vertical relief of the semi-circular wall combined with its proximity to the registration pins. While I don't need tight tolerances per se, I am worried about any runout or slop in the machine (A LoboCNC, so who knows since it's a kit) mangling the pins.
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Mar 7, 2014 15:19
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What is the width of the cut you are trying to make? It doesn't look like it can be much more than 1/2 than the DoC, which should be pretty easily achievable. Try to find a local tooling supplier instead of McMaster, they sell a lot stuff but have a pretty poor selection of endmills. You could also look for a dedicated tooling supply company online, and they should have a sales department to help you find the best endmill for the job. You can either look for an endmill with >3/8" flute length which will give a nicer finish on the wall of the part as you can do your final pass at full depth or look for a relieved shank endmill which will be a bit stiffer and have less deflection on harder cuts. I think in your situation you'd want the full length flutes as your machine won't have the rigidity to benefit from the increased stiffness.
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Mar 7, 2014 17:31
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henne posted:What is the width of the cut you are trying to make? It doesn't look like it can be much more than 1/2 than the DoC, which should be pretty easily achievable. Try to find a local tooling supplier instead of McMaster, they sell a lot stuff but have a pretty poor selection of endmills. You could also look for a dedicated tooling supply company online, and they should have a sales department to help you find the best endmill for the job. You can either look for an endmill with >3/8" flute length which will give a nicer finish on the wall of the part as you can do your final pass at full depth or look for a relieved shank endmill which will be a bit stiffer and have less deflection on harder cuts. I think in your situation you'd want the full length flutes as your machine won't have the rigidity to benefit from the increased stiffness. Thinktink came recommended by my contact for miniature endmills; I'm using McMaster more as a point of reference than anything else. The side wall rises 4mm (.157") above the flange, and the gap between it and the pins is 1.65mm (.065"). I found a .0625" dia x 0.5" DoC endmill on thinktink, but that leaves a minuscule margin for a finishing pass.
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Mar 7, 2014 18:11
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http://www.mscdirect.com/product/37289741
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Mar 8, 2014 01:44
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I've been rearranging and fixing up my garage/workshop so I haven't done much with the machine tools lately. But things have settled a little and the lathe & mill are now somewhere better lit and easier to clean up after (put some plastic sheeting under it so I dont have a wooden bench full of sharp chips that is impossible to clean). I'd been using this http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?Simple_Remote_Pendant to run my cnc mill freehand. It's a bunch of bindings that let you use a cheapo gamepad as a mill controller. It worked ok, but I've had a couple times where I wasn't paying enough attention and instead of running the mill up the X direction only, it would veer off on a curve and destroy the workpiece. So I just used this this: http://softsolder.com/2010/03/24/emc2-gamepad-pendant-joystick-axis-lockout/ which was more complex, but still lets you use the analog sticks as speed control, but locks out the other axis so you only cut in one direction. I had to do a little editing to define the right button names and remove the cruft from the A axis which I sadly don't have, but that only took an hour or so. Works pretty well.
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Apr 27, 2014 21:49
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Is it in any way feasible to set up something similar to the OP in an apartment? How much smoke/noise/vibration is generated when milling steel for example?
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Apr 30, 2014 18:20
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No smoke unless you're using oil for coolant, which you shouldn't be. Some splattery coolant on things surrounding the machine. Not much more vibration than, say, a washing machine if you're using a sharp tool and have the right feeds and speeds. Moderate to extreme amounts of noise depending on the type of cut and the shape of the part (eg, I was milling holes into a piece of 1"x2"x30" aluminum tube and it acted like a goddamned trumpet)
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Apr 30, 2014 21:28
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Noise is heavily dependent on the operation, material, and chip load. Drilling isn't a big deal except for the initial penetration. It can be mitigated by step drilling. Turning is generally fine unless you take deep or interrupted cuts. Running a fly cutter is pretty much out of the question. Grinding will drive your neighbors nuts. If you were running a small Taig or similar mill and take moderate cuts in soft to medium plastic, you might be okay.
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Apr 30, 2014 23:48
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M1A1 posted:Is it in any way feasible to set up something similar to the OP in an apartment? How much smoke/noise/vibration is generated when milling steel for example? the lathe is super quiet and you can totally turn steel in an apartment the mill can be loud, but no worse than ... oh, i dont know, say running the vaccuum? if you're working wood or plastic yeah it's plenty quiet
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May 3, 2014 05:42
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like i wouldn't do it at 10pm or anything but during the day it should be fine.
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May 3, 2014 05:43
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i would be so bold, that I would lathe at 11pm or even later. no mods no masters
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May 3, 2014 10:01
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This is awesome if it has not been seen; http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/gcnc/
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May 4, 2014 01:18
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Not an Anthem posted:This is awesome if it has not been seen; http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/gcnc/ it is awesome and it's also literally in the op
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May 4, 2014 03:27
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echinopsis posted:i would be so bold, that I would lathe at 11pm or even later. no mods no masters lathing at such a time!! ... incredible ... rotor fucked around with this message at 03:32 on May 4, 2014 |
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May 4, 2014 03:29
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May 4, 2014 05:09
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I never got any complaints in any of the appartments I was in, but cleaning the chips out of the carpet to get my deposit back sucked. Now that I have a garage to work in I'm more particular and like having an enclosure to at least keep some of the swarf in. Anyone else like watching machines crash? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb1kUCb9avw
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May 6, 2014 02:40
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Audiot posted:Anyone else like watching machines crash? Set your zeroes properly, people. This one is my favorite, cause it keeps faking you out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZB8W81ae_g
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May 6, 2014 07:21
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lol
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May 6, 2014 20:21
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Hahahaha that last one is awesome. Wait for it.. wait for it.. *ping*
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May 11, 2014 01:06
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Given the choice to drill a 9mm diameter x 25mm deep hole or mill it as a circular pocket (into a 2" aluminum cube), which would you guys choose? I still read your username as echopenis
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May 14, 2014 08:47
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Assuming you have both a 9mm drill and a long <9mm end mill...it would depend if you needed the hole to be flat-bottomed or not. If you don't care, the drill will be a lot faster.
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May 14, 2014 08:56
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I care about roundness and concentricity more than the bottom finish (could be a through hole too really). There's four M3-threaded holes that will be around it, and when I tried drilling them on a drill press last time all 5 holes weren't lined up quite the way they should be. I figured if I did it with the CNC this time I could eliminate most of the placement error... aka me. I finally got around to calibrating the motors on my g0704 so now I can take cambam a little bit more seriously in making g-code to run on the CNC.
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May 14, 2014 09:26
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did you center punch the holes before you used the drill press?
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May 14, 2014 18:10
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peepsalot posted:did you center punch the holes before you used the drill press? Yeah, center punch, then center drilled, then drilled out in incremental steps to 9mm. Even then the drill walked enough off center to make 1-2 holes not line up when mounted. And it's aluminum too, so you'd think that's soft enough to not gently caress up.
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May 14, 2014 18:50
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Drilling up to size might be what screwed you. Unless you're perfectly on center and the drill geometry is perfectly balanced it'll try and walk. With more engagement area it can average out better. I'd either buy a reamer or mill it.
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May 14, 2014 19:05
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CrazyLittle posted:Given the choice to drill a 9mm diameter x 25mm deep hole or mill it as a circular pocket (into a 2" aluminum cube), which would you guys choose? that says a lot about how much cock you think about
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May 14, 2014 20:38
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It's always been echidnapiss for me.
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May 14, 2014 20:53
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glad to see on a word based forum apparently educated adults still can't read
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May 14, 2014 20:59
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If you have a boring head you could drill your part undersized, then come back and bore to size. That would keep you concentric with the spindle and (hopefully) correct any geometry errors that happened if the drill walked.
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May 20, 2014 04:03
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oxbrain posted:Drilling up to size might be what screwed you. Unless you're perfectly on center and the drill geometry is perfectly balanced it'll try and walk. With more engagement area it can average out better. I think this is what happened. When I just run the 9mm drill as-is it drilled just fine.
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May 20, 2014 04:15
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