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CarForumPoster posted:This looks really nice, your print lines are so much smoother than my globby disaster of a CR10 knockoff. Thank you! The Prusa Mini is probably the best home shop investment I’ve made so far. It’ll even print the PC blend really well. I’m really amped for this guy to come out for jigs and fixtures. On demand nylon herringbone gears are gonna be so nice: https://www.micronics3d.com/ Ooh and actually in this topic, check out this video about Rack Robo. I desperately want to make that 4 axis wire EDM machine they’re going to publish the plans for: https://youtu.be/YLF70yzrhWw?si=PcYQpvwg_hu-xqhc
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May 7, 2024 21:24
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NewFatMike posted:Thank you! The Prusa Mini is probably the best home shop investment I’ve made so far. It’ll even print the PC blend really well. Holy poo poo I want one of those SLS printers. So many stupid fixtures, so many assembly jigs. The rack robo looks pretty slick, but apparently the accuracy and surface finish leave something to be desired? I'm sure a proper filtering and ion scavenging system would make it much better, but that would probably triple the cost of the unit.
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May 8, 2024 08:18
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Yeah, the examples they had for surface finish weren’t awesome. I’m certainly curious about how much dialing in can be done in that setup, but the cost of entry is so low, the worst case is I’ll find plenty of good applications where the surface finish doesn’t matter much like combat robot weapons.
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May 8, 2024 12:44
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So I went through my user settings and turned avatars back on since most of the threads I look at are unlikely to have pornographic avatars so many years down the road and I'm wondering who bought my current avatar and why. I don't hate it, I just don't remember it being this.
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May 8, 2024 23:59
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It’s been that way for a long time probably multiple years by now?
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May 9, 2024 00:17
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I don't doubt it, I'm just wondering why someone bought it/a little glad it didn't turn out to be one of the hard-core porn avatars you used to see in DND/LF a long time ago that were the reason I turned that setting off back then.
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May 9, 2024 00:35
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I'll fess right up, I did it quite a long time ago, and then someone else actually went in after me and dressed up the text underneath with the fancy numbers. Your previous av had some red text that I don't even remember anymore, but it wasn't particularly flattering. You had made this post in the 3D printing thread one afternoon that I found really interesting, so I decided it was time to give you something a little more fun and a little less Awful™. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3973815&userid=152828#post516934336 I'll be happy to spring for another new one if you don't want to keep it anymore, wouldn't take any offense at all. 
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May 9, 2024 01:09
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Ah! It makes sense now, thank you. No it's fine, I knew the snap/crackle/pop reference but forgot posting about it.
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May 9, 2024 08:40
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I took the CNC down last week to (half) fix the way oil line and to install copper pipes shop air with the new compressor. Finished that today.  Also installed a mini air conditioner. It is not enough for how leaky the garage is. Below is temp and RH with it running all day. An office should be ~50%RH it starts to feel humid around 60%. 
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May 10, 2024 18:55
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Time to seal the windows with transparent film and put new weather strip around the garage door and make sure the AC exhaust/condensation is piped outside/sealed and... Basically hermetically seal everything and never open the room.
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May 10, 2024 20:18
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Some Pinko Commie posted:Time to seal the windows with transparent film and put new weather strip around the garage door and make sure the AC exhaust/condensation is piped outside/sealed and... No kidding. When theres a ~7°F temp delta I can feel warm air rush under the external door like theres a fan blowing.
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May 10, 2024 22:44
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A bigger overview of that wire EDM kit machine, the Betta Wire: https://youtu.be/nTMlIvt_CDY?si=OLXdNtdxIi7B-zmY I’m not even done with this MR-1 and my machine project lust is back anew  E: speaking of the MR-1, I re-tapped all those unfinished M5 holes, so I just need to get back around to actually building the thing again!
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May 13, 2024 01:30
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Anyone here ever setup a machine assembly for machine simulation in hsmworks? I'm having an issue where the Z offset has a mind of it's own causing the spindle to repeatedly pile drive through the table. Tangentially related, I've been entrusted with firing up an unused UMC-750 at work for prototyping and it's going to be my first time running a big boy machine, so that's neat. I'm to the point of just needing to flush and refill the (empty...) coolant tank, and then I can start very over cautiously making chips.
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May 13, 2024 03:30
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Rectal Placenta posted:Anyone here ever setup a machine assembly for machine simulation in hsmworks? I'm having an issue where the Z offset has a mind of it's own causing the spindle to repeatedly pile drive through the table. On a 5 axis machine, you're REALLY going to want a complete simulation solution for the gcode. Bonking the spindle into the work holding gets real expensive real quicklike, so setting the jobs up to allow for a complete machine simulation before cutting is important. I know fusion360 has simulation that's good enough for most use cases built in, and has a library with most of the machines already defined. It's what I use for my 4th axis stuff, and it makes a huge difference when you're trying to squeak by with ~1mm of clearance between the spindle body and the vise.
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May 13, 2024 10:06
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N'thing complete simulation if you're doing 5-axis stuff. I don't know about hobbyist cam, but all professional cam I've worked with has good enough simulation built-in.
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May 13, 2024 10:16
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Is this the laser thread too? I pre-ordered a questionable lasertree 60w diode laser module, and I'm going to be sticking it on an openbuilds Acro motion system. Also an enclosure and fume extraction so that I don't die or become blind. This is the result of me escalating my plans repeatedly over the course of about a week of looking at inexpensive laser engravers, despite my only real need being to cut moderate to large pieces of 6mm MDF and maybe fabric.
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May 13, 2024 16:10
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Rectal Placenta posted:Anyone here ever setup a machine assembly for machine simulation in hsmworks? I'm having an issue where the Z offset has a mind of it's own causing the spindle to repeatedly pile drive through the table. For the UMC, one warning related to CAM simulation. The newer software versions have introduced a machine simulation running in the background of the Haas controller that checks for collision between the spindle and table and stops before anything hits (it doesn't know anything about the workholding). It's really cool in concept, but I've found that it's way too conservative: it alarms out if the spindle gets within about 50 mm of the table. I've spent days checking and altering programs in Hypermill to make sure they won't crash, and then the Haas controller just refuses to run it because it gets within that limit. Really annoying, and I don't think you can turn it off without a service key. Not sure how new your UMC is, but just something to be aware of when you're configuring the CAM simulation. Info under 6.3 Restricted/Crash Zones https://www.haascnc.com/service/online-operator-s-manuals/umc-series-operator-s-manual-supplement/umc---operation.html
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May 13, 2024 16:28
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A general thing for machine simulation, they don't always model how the machine retracts or does tool changes correctly in terms of the order axes move in or how the tool changer swings, so still make sure to explicitly define your retracts and safe moves when dealing with long tools or big parts, I've had it catch me out before.
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May 13, 2024 16:52
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Every seat of the DELMIA NC solution (including the SOLIDWORKS Makers Offer for 3+2) includes full machine kinematics, but getting those simulation models is usually a reseller service. In case that’s useful for anyone  They’ve also got nesting with common line cutting and wire EDM support so maybe I should be playing with those more…
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May 13, 2024 18:07
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EDM is so awesome, but it's WELL beyond the WAF of my household.
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May 13, 2024 20:20
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Any guesses how I might find and approach a local shop to cut some MDF for me? I was thinking about building some speakers and basically need a flat kit made for me, probably out of 3/4" MDF. Basically it would be a bunch of through rectangular cuts and then two sides with some curvature and 3-4mm deep grooves cut where all the flats can slot in. But trying to call some local machine shops and ask if they have a 4x8 router table and are willing to cut some MDF for me seems pretty awkward. And I'd want to make sure I have the right kind of file(s). Part of it is just a flats list they'd presumably auto-sort onto a sheet. But the two big shapes I'd have to make in some kind of cad to show the depth of the grooves and somehow account for a reasonable router bit width at the end of the cuts to make sure the boards will slot in. Basically, any advice on how to have things prepared for trying to approach a small business so it would actually be worth their time.
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May 14, 2024 02:33
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If you can, avoid cuts that don't go all the way through. Then look up Send Cut Send and either use their service, or just get your designs into a format that would work with their service, and you'll be in a good position to adapt to any local company you find.
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May 14, 2024 02:37
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Karia posted:For the UMC, one warning related to CAM simulation I'm running classic controls, so I guess I won't have to worry about that. And yeah, definitely going to walk before I run and stay in 3 axis land for a while while exploring 5 axis on the CAM side of things. Plus sorting through the pile of tooling that isn't organized or catalogued in any way. The previous guy literally left a pile of empty end mill containers on one half of a bench, and all the loose end mills in a pile on the other half.
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May 14, 2024 02:46
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Rescue Toaster posted:
Instead of machine shops, look for cabinet shops or set shops, if you're somewhere with any film or tv production. The above file advice is good. You can also call out a partial depth cut (a pocket, if it's surrounded by higher material). I'll usually put something like "pocket 4mm deep" as a note in the area to remove. But yeah, simplifying is best if possible.
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May 14, 2024 03:04
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Kind of like this: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/full-range-speaker-kits/fostex-bk-16-folded-horn-kit-pair/ Where most of it is just particular rectangles, but the sides have those pockets to hold the pieces in place. They do something fancy with the corners to avoid having to extend past the pieces that end. I would otherwise just cut slightly past the nominal stop, but that would vary with the bit diameter I'm afraid. Not sure what the best way to do it is. I guess I could do alignment holes of some kind and then jig a drill setup to put dowels into the cross pieces, but that seems tedious and prone to error. Since the four main side pieces in mine are 6 foot by 20", and I need 3/4 material, I don't think send cut send will work but I'll investigate along these lines. Ty
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May 14, 2024 04:13
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Have you checked Facebook Marketplace for someone local with a CNC router in their garage?
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May 14, 2024 04:19
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Rescue Toaster posted:Kind of like this: Looks like they cut back the ends of the parts that slot into the pockets. They've probably compensated for whatever bit they're using so the two radiused corners slightly interfere and fit snug. Another way to do it would be to drill at each corner of each slot with the bit, making the slots into a dogbone shape. Not really something you can set up in the file, though.
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May 14, 2024 05:19
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Yeah any strategy I can think of would involve knowing what the bit diameter they would use is. So I'd have to provide a first pass model initially and then adjust based on what they want to use. This all depends on finding someone to work with anyway. If it's more than a thousand bucks or something to get four plywood/mdf sheets cut, eh...
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May 14, 2024 06:13
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ante posted:If you can, avoid cuts that don't go all the way through. Then look up Send Cut Send and either use their service, or just get your designs into a format that would work with their service, and you'll be in a good position to adapt to any local company you find. SendCutSend has MDF in 12mm and 6.35mm (among other thicknesses). Glue 'em together and you have your 3/4" MDF with 1/4" deep slots. (I am not a woodworker and I don't know how well this would work in practice) e: or 1/4" MDF on 1/2" baltic birch ryanrs fucked around with this message at 08:00 on May 14, 2024 |
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May 14, 2024 07:57
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Changed the way oil filter on the CNC mill. This filter only has new oil pushed through it but as someone ITT mentioned, it had probably gelled. Not sure how I’m going to get whatever gunk made it into the lines out. When I get around to dialing the machine I’ll clean under the way covers and make sure that new fluid is coming out of the places it should. If it isnt, hopefully there are fittings I can disconnect to clean them. Anyone ever need to clean way lube lines?
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May 14, 2024 15:16
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CarForumPoster posted:Changed the way oil filter on the CNC mill. This filter only has new oil pushed through it but as someone ITT mentioned, it had probably gelled. Not sure how I’m going to get whatever gunk made it into the lines out. I hate being right. On my machine I checked each of the destination points when I had all of the covers off for cleaning. I found that only a couple were blocked at the metering valve block. Sticking the blocked metering valves in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with solvent cleaned them out. I purged the rest of the lines as much as possible by pumping a bunch of clean oil through. If it was worse, I would have blown out all of the lines one by one and replaced the metering valves. My machine has a total loss oiling system so no filter and not much made it past the pump.
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May 15, 2024 01:19
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ZincBoy posted:I hate being right. On my machine I checked each of the destination points when I had all of the covers off for cleaning. I found that only a couple were blocked at the metering valve block. Sticking the blocked metering valves in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with solvent cleaned them out. I purged the rest of the lines as much as possible by pumping a bunch of clean oil through. If it was worse, I would have blown out all of the lines one by one and replaced the metering valves. My machine has a total loss oiling system so no filter and not much made it past the pump. Mine is total loss as well it seems. I’m not quite sure why there even is a filter. That sounds like a good plan though. I’ve been wanting an excuse to buy a decent ultrasonic cleaner and now I’ve got one!
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May 15, 2024 01:50
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