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did you center punch the holes before you used the drill press?
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May 14, 2014 18:10
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I'd recommend looking at some of the 3d printer controller electronics out there. Most of them can stream gcode to the controller over usb serial, and many also have the option to Here is the popular arduino based solution: http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4 However, newer controllers are moving towards using more powerful arm cores, which can handle higher step rate and more computing power for motion processing. I use this on my large linear-delta style printer: http://www.panucatt.com/azteeg_X5_mini_reprap_3d_printer_controller_p/ax5mini.htm As long a max of 30V and ~2.5A is enough to power your motors. Also you'll want a fan and nice heatsink on your drivers if you are getting close to 2.5A I run smoothieware firmware on these electronics http://smoothieware.org/ peepsalot fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Oct 15, 2014 |
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Oct 14, 2014 20:11
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Parts Kit posted:Woo, the Inventables mount has a pen holder built in. Hadn't really noticed that. This is great as attempted to make a dial indicator holder out of a 90 degree bent piece of aluminum rod earlier. It's sitting securely in the pen holder right now. Can't you just...mill it flat?
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Sep 10, 2015 15:48
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Parts Kit posted:Now if I can only figure out a way to install these bastards without having to take apart most of the machine. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Drop-In-T-Nut-M5-Thread-For-T-slot-aluminum-extrusion-10-8-6-4-4mm-Pack-of-20-/381233727246
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Sep 16, 2015 21:02
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Brekelefuw posted:I'm finally making the plunge in to cnc with my sherline lathe and mill. I'm getting a cbc ready lathe from Craigslist but it needs motors and a driver box still. The only thing the nema classification tells you is basically the mounting screw profile. NEMA 23 means the motor face is ~2.3" square, and the screw holes are some kind of standard spacing inside that 2.3" square, which you can look up diagrams/dimensions for. Within NEMA 23, you can get relatively short or long motor casings, longer generally equating to more torque, and more current consumption. Also they inductance, resistance, etc can vary even with basically exactly same sized motors depending on how they wind the coils. The majority of steppers have 1.8 step angle, or 200steps/rev, but you can sometimes find them in 0.9, 400 steps/rev. I've only really dealt with smaller nema 17 motors so far, so I can't really recommend a driver box for nema 23. It should be rated for at least as much current as whichever motor you get. You can find some pretty cheap ~$20 ones on ebay that are good for 5A or so, not sure how reliable they are though.
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Sep 28, 2015 04:08
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Parts Kit posted:If anyone else is trying to bring svgs from Illustrator to Fusion 360, a scaling factor of 0.0185 seems to get fusion 360 to give you the resulting size you actually wanted. (Otherwise nice little 8x8 graphics for engraving become hundreds of inches in size) SVG is terrible for CAD because there is no way to use real world units, its all converted to pixels based on an arbitrary DPI decided by whichever software you are using.
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Nov 15, 2015 21:22
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I always figured ballscrews purpose was more about precision of the movement (linearity, backlash, stiction).
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Nov 15, 2016 06:56
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cultureulterior posted:TB6600 stepper controllers with the known torque problem What's this about? I haven't used a TB6600 driver, but have considered picking up a couple.
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Nov 28, 2016 21:45
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A Yolo Wizard posted:Big rear end Fans donated an old 4 axis hot wire cutter to our makerspace at the end of last year, and I decided I want to make it work again. I'm mostly focused on figuring out their driver board / control boxes. I have some experience in the cnc routers we have, and plenty in hotwire cutting, but theres a second box in series with the one driving the steppers and heating the wire that I have no idea what its purpose is. No manufacturing label, and all I can gather is that it takes 8v, 1amp (if the ac adapter in the pile had anything to do with it.) Did they just separate the control electronics from the drivers and power supply? Maybe I'm having a brain fart. http://www.terminalblockmanufacturer.com/pro.php?m=d&pid=27&cid=34&f=18
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Jan 26, 2017 00:32
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Nice job Ambrose, but actually the slickest limit switch setup is ... no switches at all! TMC2130 stepper drivers for example have stall detection feature built in that can be used as limit stops. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Prw7wNa20Gk
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Jan 27, 2018 17:43
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Ghostnuke posted:I'm looking for a gear motor for a project. I need it to run between 100 and 200 rpm and have greater than 65 inch-lbs of torque, and also not cost a billion dollars. Looks like you might find something in that range as a "wheelchair motor", on ebay or whatever.
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May 30, 2019 23:13
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Sagebrush posted:In Sweden a mil is 10 kilometers Turns out he meant the other other other interpretation of mil https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milliradian
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Jun 10, 2019 08:36
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AFewBricksShy posted:I'm sorry to bother you guys with this, but I couldn't find anything on google. You could also make a sort of generic e-stop setup by splicing a normal extension cord and putting in a little project box with strain reliefs. Don't know about the controller board on that, but it could also have its own stop input which you might be able to wire into, but I wouldn't consider that as an "absolute" emergency stop, since the depending on the circuit design/firmware it could potentially get ignored somehow.
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Aug 6, 2019 22:01
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bring back old gbs posted:I want to know if something exists but I can't even combine the correct words to google it correctly. I was hoping there was a way to combine a bunch of step/direction connections into one (i2c maybe?) connection with an arduino, and then 3 wires go to a 2nd arduino that breaks out that i2c connection back to all the step/direction outputs, so I can have a more easy to manage cable harness running to my robot e: Also i2c is typically not rated for much distance if you want decent speed, depending on your machine layout. SPI or some other serial protocol might be better, pretty sure you can find io expander for all kinds of signals though. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Nov 24, 2019 |
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Nov 24, 2019 18:06
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Also, at the lowest level, you basically only need a serial in, parallel out (SIPO) shift register, since you only need output and not input. But you probably want something supported by an internal peripheral device that doesn't require arduino to bang out individual bits at a time, cause that might be too slow. Not sure if UART for example can go directly to a shift register. Maybe electronics thread folks could tell you more.
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Nov 24, 2019 18:26
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