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Wild EEPROM posted:Seems likely that it would be possible to make a turbine wheel by hand, or to code a machine to. I remember reading an article years ago about how one of the major Japanese manufacturers (I think it was Hitachi) who received a large fine for selling a 5 axis machine (or maybe it was 6 axis) to the soviet union, suitable for making submarine propellers, in the 1980s. I believe it was a combination of Toshiba milling machines and Kongsberg numeric control (not even CNC!) control systems. I remember seeing a blurb about it long ago in the Red Storm Rising manual. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toshiba-Kongsberg_scandal
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Mar 3, 2014 08:12
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How would one go about machining a piece with vertical features ~3/8" in depth when the DoC on my available end mills is only 1/8"? I've just started learning about machining, but I expect the answer is either "you can't" or "get a 5-axis mill  ". Everyone I've talked to so far hasn't been able to give me an answer.For reference, these are the parts I intend to make. I figure delrin will make a better bearing than ABS. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:217274 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:217181
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Mar 7, 2014 04:51
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CrazyLittle posted:Yeah - any reason why you don't just do this? Because the sites I've been shopping on (mcmaster and thinktink) don't offer them. To get that extra length I'd need to bump up the cutter diameter, and that causes horizontal clearance issues. I've found all of one that might work, but I need to check back with my contact on mill tolerances because it's so close to the width of the cut it needs to make. The problem area is on the second part, and it's a combination of the vertical relief of the semi-circular wall combined with its proximity to the registration pins. While I don't need tight tolerances per se, I am worried about any runout or slop in the machine (A LoboCNC, so who knows since it's a kit) mangling the pins.
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Mar 7, 2014 15:19
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henne posted:What is the width of the cut you are trying to make? It doesn't look like it can be much more than 1/2 than the DoC, which should be pretty easily achievable. Try to find a local tooling supplier instead of McMaster, they sell a lot stuff but have a pretty poor selection of endmills. You could also look for a dedicated tooling supply company online, and they should have a sales department to help you find the best endmill for the job. You can either look for an endmill with >3/8" flute length which will give a nicer finish on the wall of the part as you can do your final pass at full depth or look for a relieved shank endmill which will be a bit stiffer and have less deflection on harder cuts. I think in your situation you'd want the full length flutes as your machine won't have the rigidity to benefit from the increased stiffness. Thinktink came recommended by my contact for miniature endmills; I'm using McMaster more as a point of reference than anything else. The side wall rises 4mm (.157") above the flange, and the gap between it and the pins is 1.65mm (.065"). I found a .0625" dia x 0.5" DoC endmill on thinktink, but that leaves a minuscule margin for a finishing pass.
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Mar 7, 2014 18:11
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