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rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome
like out of curiousity where are the higher end benchtop lathes? like if I had a sudden fiscal windfall that was not enough to buy a new house with bigger shop space but enough to lay out some decent cash for a lathe, where would I look?

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rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome
yeah like as far as I can tell I'm just trying to make the decision between different configurations of Sieg lathes.


i think i found the highest end tho: http://www.smsa.ch/en/Products.html

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome
well i mean of course i could I just don't want to seem like a big showoff is all

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

Parts Kit posted:

There are folks who have hooked up xbox game pads to their shapeokos for control, no idea if they suffer from major lag or what but might be worth a look.

I used a generic gamepad as a pendant for my mill, worked fine. You can use the analog sticks to control velocity and direction. http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/wiki.pl?Simple_Remote_Pendant

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome
the config language they use for the halui stuff is pretty weird imo but after a while it starts to make sense

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome
I guess there's a mach3 thing for it too? I dunno but this page exists anyway:

https://www.machsupport.com/forum/index.php?topic=16140.0

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

Enos Shenk posted:

Yeah I looked into building a pendant style control for my Taig a while back. I figured it would be pretty easy to just cram an Arduino in a small enclosure and get the thing talking to Mach3. It probably would be, but once I started pricing out jog wheels and rad as gently caress pucker buttons I realized it would just be a huge pile of money for something I don't really need-need.

for reals tho the game controller works great, and is basically free.


quote:

One day I want to get a real full sized lathe. One of the most depressing things was almost getting a perfectly functional LeBlond with the rad SPEED DIAL for $200 or so. The community college I was going to still had 2 of them, but were replacing them with newer machines. The department head said they were just having them hauled off for scrap, I begged to pay the scrap value for one of them and they were going to let me do it. Then promptly forgot and had them hauled off anyway.

Fuckers.

ffffffffffffff

I like the taig mill, i have no real yearnings for a bigger mill. The taig lathe however? It's a watchmakers lathe and I'm not making any watches.

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

Ambrose Burnside posted:

That's lame :/ My setup has been "good enough" so far for basic processes and first-pass squaring/facing but once it isn't cutting it any more, when I'm making dies and parts that need significant precision, I'll probably have to spend a day or two tearing everything down and rebuilding/tramming.

For taig mill owners in particular, but Sherline/etc guys too, what are signs that you're hitting the machine's rigidity limits as opposed to the tooling limits? What rules of thumb do you use? I don't run my end mills anywhere near the supposed maximums feed/speed calculators spit out at me, and I play with feedrate while programs are running until it "sounds" "good", but I don't have the ear to know what a Problem sounds like beyond Cranky Tool Sounds that are visibly giving bad chatterey results. I've heard people complain about the Z column getting knocked out of true from people pushing machines too hard without the column's position being reinforced in some way, like a tack weld or added set screws, and I don't think I'd notice something like that until the part was done but visibly out of square.

I remember a few threads about this on the mailing list. IIRC, the general consensus is that those people have either not tightened down the nuts hard enough or have mounted motors that are oversized for the mill, like those big 480oz/in motors or something, or were milling something really high up on the z-axis that gave it a very high moment arm.

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

Brekelefuw posted:

Are you increasing the feed to reduce the chatter ? Sometimes I get horrible noises because I'm not feeding fast enough for the speed.

this hosed me up the first few times I encountered it, but yeah, if you think you're going reasonably slow, try speeding up instead. Alternately, your tool could be dull and you're just rubbing instead of cutting. That's why I like the lathe better, my lathe bits are easy to make sharp as hell but as soon as I dull my end mills i gotta get a new one :-(

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

CrazyLittle posted:

indexable carbide insert mills :)

i want one but everyone says you can't use carbide on the taig because it doesn't turn fast enough/have enough hp? i dunno.

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome
also I can't find a 3/8" shank indexable end mill

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

CrazyLittle posted:

Grizzly G0704?

:catstare:

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome
yeah turning tools I got covered, its replacing end mills with indexable carbide that I want to try out but I can't even find a 3/8" shank indexable carbide end mill to try, and also everyone tells me it will end in tears.

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

Methylethylaldehyde posted:

You have turning tools, just turn down the shaft of a cheapo depot chinesium insert holder, and see what happens. It'll work, just not well, and certainly not for how much they cost.

so here we are back at the beginning where everyone tells me not to use carbide on the taig

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

eddiewalker posted:

I saw your posts about the Taig. They just don't seem nearly as popular.

I think they have a distributor problems. As in, they don't really have very many.

quote:

The other thing is that I have no sense of scale or of the working volume I'll eventually want. The Taig looks so small and spartan when I've been flirting with the larger X3-based machines as future-proofing.

work envelope is about the same, iirc the sieg has 1-2" more y-axis travel.

If you're getting it as a CNC the Taig seems like a no-brainer to me. It's cheaper and more accurate.

One thing I really wish the taig had is a quill. Its very hard to use it as a drill. But you don't care about that if it's gonna be a cnc machine.

Worth noting is that I can swap between manual & cnc on my taig in like ~15 minutes. Not sure if that means anything to you, but it's pretty handy for me.

Also, it's actually made in the USA, if that means anything to you.

edit: oh you're looking at the super cheapo sieg. yeah no buy a taig.

rotor fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Mar 12, 2017

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

Aurium posted:

The Taig also uses a lightswitch as the on off switch. :swoon:

and they pass the savings on to you

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

eddiewalker posted:

My budget is flexible and I'm not trying to go completely starving-student. Just trying to stay aware of all of the tooling and holding stuff I'll also need to buy too.

I was looking at this Taig, but I'm not sure how much I care about the 4th axis, and I assume he's asking too much since it's been listed for weeks.

https://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/5979180393.html

yeah that seems like way too much. I paid iirc ~1700 for the full cnc setup w/ controller & motor & stuff.

quote:

More and more I'm thinking I want something larger than a mini-mill. I'd like the ability to mill most of the usable-width of a 19" equipment rack blank and the G0704 is looking pretty tempting with 18-7/8" of horizontal travel. There's a Grizzly store a few hours south, so I'm hoping to stop and look in person.

get as large as your shop can fit and you can afford imo. Tormachs are nice. :-)

I went with the taig primarily because of it's size - my shop space is tiny.

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome
I'm a programmer irl and I was interested in gcode for a minute but its such a garbage language. It's obvious that it was always intended to be generated and not written by humans.

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome
like I would be super into something like 3d postscript but nope

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

Ambrose Burnside posted:

If you can deal with a small (~5.5x11" ish Y/X) working area a Taig micro mill would be a good fit, it's above and beyond the cheapest "real" milling machine you'll find and will have much better rigidity than comparable gantry-type mini routers which struggle with aluminum. I've got one, you can cut steel at modest chiploads no problem, and with aluminum the issue will be tool deflection before machine deflection until you're running end mills up near 3/16-1/4" dia.

All that being said, though, getting a machine like this up and running accurately and repeatably is either disproportionately expensive or will be a more ambitious and time-consuming project than running these parts will be, and certainly more expensive than farming it out to someone with a machine that's actually ideal for this purpose (commercial laser/waterjet job shop). That's also leaving aside "learning to machine effectively on a very small mill", which is daunting in its own right if you don't have prior milling experience.
If you're dead-set on doing these yourself with a home setup, it should probably be best viewed as a job to spur on and bankroll a new manufacturing toy, as opposed to viewing the mill as the most appropriate means to and end, because the latter will probably lead to a lot of frustration.
(i say this because i basically did that exact thing, and i don't exactly regret it but that's down to luck and circumstance, and it 100% was not a sensible solution to my manufacturing problem)

my taig worked great in aluminum. You can rip through it pretty fast and it'll definitely hold the tolerances you need for that, and if it's just 2D milling the CAD is pretty easy. The OP has some links.

whether you actually need this or whether it'll be cost effective idk

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

HolHorsejob posted:

Any other folks with a taig mill? Anyone done their own ballscrew conversion?

hey yeah hi i have a taig that i basically never use anymore but i remember when i was researching it ballscrew conversions were a popular topic.

A few people actually did them and really came off as a 'defend your purchase' thing where they put weeks worth of work into it and came out the other side with ... basically the same performance. I guess rapids can be faster but who cares. The stock leadscrews - on my taig anyway - were fine. My understanding is they're not acme because they don't get a lot of load because the mill is so small.

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome
btw if anyone is in the bay area and needs a cnc taig mill, hit me up, i'm selling mine.

rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

Qubee posted:

Gonna hop on Fusion 360 and give it a go, do they have a robust tutorial portal? Creo had really frustrating tutorials to use that weren't always clear.

Is it possible to import artwork / designs into CAM software to get really intricate patterns cut out? Like in:




He's somehow managed to make these designs in CAM software and then milled it out on the CNC machine. But I'm scratching my head wondering how he's made something so detailed.

ive never used it for something really elaborate but FEngrave just takes svg files and worked fine

rotor posted:

V-Carving is super cool. I was really surprised by how crisp the corners got. Here's how to use FEngrave with a random SVG file.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mhc_1kfS3ck

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rotor
Jun 11, 2001

classic case of pineapple derangement syndrome

Bad Munki posted:

Good point, I forgot about them, cheers.

you can also try local crafts stores. the fabric store by me has one. Also I think the public library has one? anyway, try those too i guess idk

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