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SomethingLiz posted:I got my Shapeoko 2 about a month ago Did you get the full kit or did you BYO electronics?
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Feb 27, 2014 20:25
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oxbrain posted:Or buy a longer endmill. Yeah - any reason why you don't just do this?
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Mar 7, 2014 08:04
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Given the choice to drill a 9mm diameter x 25mm deep hole or mill it as a circular pocket (into a 2" aluminum cube), which would you guys choose? I still read your username as echopenis
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May 14, 2014 08:47
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I care about roundness and concentricity more than the bottom finish (could be a through hole too really). There's four M3-threaded holes that will be around it, and when I tried drilling them on a drill press last time all 5 holes weren't lined up quite the way they should be. I figured if I did it with the CNC this time I could eliminate most of the placement error... aka me. I finally got around to calibrating the motors on my g0704 so now I can take cambam a little bit more seriously in making g-code to run on the CNC.
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May 14, 2014 09:26
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peepsalot posted:did you center punch the holes before you used the drill press? Yeah, center punch, then center drilled, then drilled out in incremental steps to 9mm. Even then the drill walked enough off center to make 1-2 holes not line up when mounted. And it's aluminum too, so you'd think that's soft enough to not gently caress up.
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May 14, 2014 18:50
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oxbrain posted:Drilling up to size might be what screwed you. Unless you're perfectly on center and the drill geometry is perfectly balanced it'll try and walk. With more engagement area it can average out better. I think this is what happened. When I just run the 9mm drill as-is it drilled just fine.
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May 20, 2014 04:15
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There's always the smoothstepper, which has its own usb or ethernet interface.
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Oct 16, 2014 15:51
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rotor posted:so I use a gecko 540 to talk to the motors and linuxcnc talks to the gecko Yeah, I've got a breakout board that feeds into individual stepper motor controllers. It's more parts/pieces than a G540 but it also allows me to setup 4-5 axis on a single LPT port. This is the kit I'm using to drive a G0704 mill http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/g0704-kit/cnc-stepper-motor-3-axis-kit-5 CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Oct 17, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 05:41
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What's your price range? There's tons of other drag chains (you can even make them yourself w/ the shapeoko). Here's a few links for ideas: http://www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1691 http://www.8020cnc.com/cable%20carrier http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45144 There's also split loom, but it's not going to work as well as a drag chain for repeated linear motion (IE gimbal axis) http://www.cableorganizer.com/wire-loom-tubing/ CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Dec 15, 2014 |
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Dec 15, 2014 20:18
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max4me posted:Is there any way to take a picture of the NOS gasket get the shap and just give the dimensions? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICxp0Puao1Q You'll have to use a proper CAD program after to clean up the lines and set the proper scale.
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Jan 23, 2015 23:07
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That curtain looks clever as hell but there's a few points where his tooling can shred the sheeting because of the angle. He should have some kind of horizontal roller to keep it from sloping too shallow.
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Oct 27, 2015 07:50
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Brekelefuw posted:100 thou cut on a small machine like that is a big cut. Part of the problem with using that burr mill is that his SFPM at the tip gets infinitely lower and lower the closer you get to cutting at the tip, and there's almost zero cutting surface area at the tip to actually do any cutting work. Yes a ball mill should be a vast improvement, or a square end mill of a smaller diameter. Shapeokos were really designed to be running high speed carbide 1/8" dremel bits at 10k/RPM so that your SFPM gets closer to 200-400in/min. He should be side cutting with that burr mill, and he should be taking several passes. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Nov 24, 2015 |
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Nov 24, 2015 07:03
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Parts Kit posted:If you want to go balls to the wall you could get a mini-mill and convert it. I think that'll have plenty enough oomph to do brass, though they're still pretty anemic when talking in even mild steel terms. Even with a mini mill conversion I don't think it would do what he's trying to do (plunge-cut & 1pass on a burr bit)
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Nov 25, 2015 09:20
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Depending on the glue used to hold the layers together you might be gumming up your router bits. I had some issues with not-quite-dried crazyglue gumming up my lathe the other night, and I've had glue build up on the flutes of my mills when I was cutting too fast / not enough chip depth through other media before. Of course brass won't have this problem... just different problems.
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Dec 4, 2015 20:14
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Parts Kit posted:Anyone else with these DIY setups, have you considered using a surplus ammo can for your electronics enclosure? I'm mulling that over right now. Not entirely sure if it'd be worth the trouble though? The stepper controllers on mine produce a decent amount of heat, which an ammo can probably wouldn't vent all that well.
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Dec 9, 2015 07:05
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Ambrose Burnside posted:And- measurement tools. This is where I'm kind of totally in the dark, all the metalworking I've ever done has never needed anything more than a steel rule and vernier calipers and yer mark I eyeball. What's a bare-minimum tool suite to get the machine set up properly and allow me to do most basic work? Edge/center finders + dial test indicator + machinist's blocks, something like that? Really depends on what kind of tolerances you're looking to hit. Digital calipers can fill most of your parts-measuring needs, but for tramming the mill and measuring travel, you'll probably want some of these: dial test indicator DTI holder for the mill's spindle (in case it didn't come with one), IE this setup:  travel indicator a pair of 1-2-3 blocks Maybe a 1" micrometer and a set of telescoping bore gauges.
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Jan 21, 2016 03:22
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oh drat that mini-tram from accudyne looks like it would be nice for my g0704 but I already got it trammed straight and don't feel like paying $270
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Jan 23, 2016 05:47
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Ambrose Burnside posted:mill purchased. The Pact Is Sealed  Did anyone figure out a good place to learn cad-to-CAM (focus on the CAM part) or am I stuck banging away at fusion 360 / cambam until I give up and just start breaking tools?
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Feb 4, 2016 00:34
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Ambrose Burnside posted:How important is chip-clearing for milling metal? I see a lot of hobbyists with compressed air setups to blow stuff free, which makes sense, but I'd think that'd require a pretty decent compressor to be working at 100% duty for hours at a time. Any chip that's not clear is more metal your mill has to cut. If you calculate the chip load correctly it should be fairly self-clearing.
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Feb 4, 2016 06:13
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Just a friendly reminder to always keep your ballscrews and table ways clean and oiled. I managed to lock up my g0704 y-axis because I didn't keep the ballscrew wet with oil, and the wood dust gummed everything up.
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Feb 10, 2016 08:16
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Ballpark's good enough. You'll get better results depending on where you are in the ballpark, of course, but if you're not setting up a shop that's cranking out parts on tiny margins then you should be fine. I mean heck - the speed/feed calculators can often spit out numbers your machine simply can't meet. What do you do at that point? CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Feb 19, 2016 |
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Feb 19, 2016 08:09
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Parts Kit posted:Use the closest you can and adjust the feed rate as necessary from what I remember in the machine shop lab I took at my alma mater. There will be times even a huge loving bridgeport can't put out the raw speed something comes out as, especially for tiny bits in soft materials. Precisely 
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Feb 20, 2016 17:04
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Parts Kit posted:Also be aware of any special concerns for your material. For example milling plexi if you get cracks you're too slow on your speeds and if you start melting chips you're pushing way to fast. So you've gotta find a sweet spot in between those two issues that still gives you a decent finish. Not only that but plexi and acrylic will melt back together if you're pushing hot enough
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Feb 20, 2016 22:55
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rawrr posted:I'm thinking about a CNC purchase sometime down the road. I've heard nothing but good things about the Taig, but how does it compare to something like http://www.omiocnc.com/x4-800l-3a/ , which is a gantry design with linear guides? Taig is going to be way more rigid, able to cut mild steel (slowly) compared to 2.5d gantry CNC machines. You'll have more working space on the table with most gantry designs though
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Feb 21, 2016 10:44
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Melting down a NEW extension ladder is even easier!
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Mar 23, 2016 17:08
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Hu Fa Ted posted:I meant for finishing them. My curiosity was piqued when I saw somebody selling a $1500 CNC set up for that exact purpose. The "ghost gunner" would be your cheapest entry into making your own CNC'd ar15 lower, aside from joining a hacker space and learning to use their CNC. The "ghost gunner" is also a massive piece of flaming garbage and you'll probably waste more than $1500 trying to get good results out of it... If they actually bother to ship one to you instead of just taking your deposit and running away. holy poo poo this thing sounds like rear end. The spindle is audibly slowing down mid-cut https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yE0i3y6CAkU CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 21, 2016 |
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Apr 21, 2016 21:53
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If he wrecked his Sieg, he was running it too hard/too deep/too fast.
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Apr 21, 2016 22:14
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Mister Sinewave posted:So far as I can tell there still isn't a peep on the web about Carvey (like reviews or anything) nothing newer than 2014 fluff anyway. Looks like the machine just started shipping based on the kickstarter comments section.
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Apr 22, 2016 23:51
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Revol posted:
The rails that make the framework for x-carve and shapeoko are created by pushing aluminum through a forming die like play-dough... aka "extruded"
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May 19, 2016 11:12
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CamBam has a 40-run trial.
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Jun 2, 2016 17:09
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Also 1/4" aluminum is more likely to break your bit on an errant operation
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Aug 31, 2016 04:52
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rawrr posted:Yeah, I'm already thinking about a lathe purchase, and I'm leaning towards a Sherline, as Taig lathes look waay too DIY. Don't do it. Don't get a micro lathe. You'll very quickly outgrow it. Even the 7x10 lathe (which I have one) is pretty rinkydink for actually cutting metal. I've jammed up my headstock a few times because it simply doesn't have the torque to have a proper go at some steels.
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Sep 7, 2016 06:49
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The big thing about using the DTI is repeatability. Make sure that it hits the same number over and over and over again when you're indicating on a surface. As long as it reads consistently, barring any nonsense like you crashing the arm, then you should be good to go. Also the DTI holders can be a real bitch sometimes, so you may be better off just chucking the DTI itself into a collet or drill chuck.
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Sep 10, 2016 07:14
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rotor posted:They're watchmakers lathes. They don't do threading, and they are not intended to do more than shave off 5-10 thou at a time, regardless of material. If that's what you want and you're making a bunch of tiny parts, go for it. But yeah, I bought one and I regret not buying one that was more like this: http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=5100&category=1271799306 the LMS 7x16 is just an extended 7x12, so if that's all you need just get the harborfreight one that's like 1/2 the price. If you're willing to pay the LMS prices you should get an 8x16 lathe instead http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-x-16-Variable-Speed-Lathe/G0768 This is bad. you've got me looking at bigger lathes now. I want that 10x22 variable-speed CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Oct 23, 2016 |
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Oct 23, 2016 05:27
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rotor posted:iirc the LMS machines have actual inch leadscrews so you don't get the dial roundoff error Nah at least the grizzly and HF versions of the sieg 7x12 all come with 16TPI lead screws too.
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Oct 29, 2016 11:30
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rotor posted:we live in a fallen world welcome to trump's america rotor posted:Gonna buy me a bigger benchtop lathe for my birthday, budget under 2k with 3 & 4 jaw chucks and qctp. Recommendations? I'm lookin at the LMS 7x16 and the grizzly 8x16, interested in others I may not know about. Do you already have your choice of qctp in mind, along with other tooling? How flexible are you on the budget? I mean that weiss 250 seems like a much better machine, and you can always make smaller things on a larger lathe but not the other way around. My HF 7x12 has definitely seized while turning, and having a larger lathe also means a higher torque motor.
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Dec 2, 2016 01:10
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Bigger y axis means better swing over travel means you can turn much larger parts not just longer parts. Also it's got a much bigger motor than most 7x lathes so it will be less likely to bind up in the middle of turning metals. Bigger also typically means more rigidity for better precision.
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Dec 2, 2016 07:10
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oh yeah another feature the 10x has - an internal gearbox for setting the feed rate. If you do any single point threading you're probably going to realize that you lost the one gear you needed to set the right travel rate for the TPI you wanted. An internal gearbox is a matter of turning knobs instead of opening the gearbox and swapping gears.
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Dec 3, 2016 08:28
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When's dinner? Can I come over? More seriously though, between the 9x19 and the 8x16 variable speed I'd actually go with the Grizzly 8x16 because it's also got a cam-lock tailstock while the 9x19 would require manually clamping down a bolt under the tailstock head. All three lathes (7x12, 8x16, 9x19) are using the same headstock taper, so you're not getting any additional through-head capacity. Really it all boils down to "what're you going to make with that lathe"? CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Dec 7, 2016 |
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Dec 7, 2016 01:21
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The higher end benchtop lathes come on their own benches. Enco, perhaps Jet... Amusingly, the smaller lathes all seem to be the same chinese Seig lathes renamed. I just saw the same lathe from Griz on Enco's page.
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Dec 7, 2016 06:25
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