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Cakefool posted:I was thinking of the machines that cut 4x8 plywood etc, can they cut through the plywood without damaging the surface underneath? MDF makes an astonishingly good sacrificial layer for these kind of things. It's dense as hell, about as acoustically dead as concrete, generally much more square/parallel than plywood, and really cheap.
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Oct 9, 2014 01:45
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Man, given how relatively cheap lovely chinese DROs are these days, I'm kinda surprised people aren't using an external scale to avoid stepper step loss. Having even a crapsack magnetic scale attached to the axis means you're able to decouple 'spinny bits go clockwise' with 'positive movement on the X axis'. You can crank as hard or as often as you like, and an external, difficult to gently caress up stick will measure how far you've really traveled. Does anyone know of controllers or firmware that would allow you to do such a thing? Basically every real CNC machine will have metallic magnetic or glass scales for reading the x/y/z axis, and I'd love to have the option to do so on my halfassed machine build.
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Oct 19, 2014 14:52
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So I just dropped the cash for a Shapeoko 2 (god the name sounds stupid when I say it). Here's hoping it ends up working out well enough. I'm already shopping around for a replacement spindle, and start designing an enclosure and dust collection system for it. If I can be assed to remember, I'll set up a time lapse and show it working.
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Nov 6, 2014 02:18
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Cakefool posted:Cool, standard size? Post pics of your build and any issues you get please, I can justify one of these when I've got space. Standard size, the full kit. I'm just going to set up my big camera to do a timelapse and forget about it until it's done. Should work out well enough.
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Nov 6, 2014 09:33
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So I got my kit and I'll be getting started building the thing tomorrow evening. I have already determined that tapping holes by hand is for suckers, and that my drillgun makes for a really sweet tap driving engine. I also learned that the three flute tap they give you is kinda crappy, and that a 4 flute tap from the local hardware store worked better. The threads are a lot less bindy, and I can hand thread the bolt all the way in and it snugs up really nice. The machine is also both bigger and smaller than I expected, and comes with about 8 bazillion little fasteners of various flavors. I see why the machine is so inexpensive, the labor cost to build it would be cost prohibitive, even using overseas peasants to do it.
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Nov 14, 2014 11:54
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ickna posted:Please keep posting updates/timelapse and any problems you run into- I'm very interested in getting one for myself to build next month. I have it mostly put together, and I'll be posting a full build log once it's all done. No time lapse, I didn't feel like wearing pants through the off and on build I did, so I ended up having to scrap it. I did take a bunch of pictures by hand though, which should be helpful. One thing I will say, the cheap M5 washers are loving dogshit, they're stamped and the horrible burr on the backside is bad enough to cause some pretty major issues with the assembly. The V-wheels end up rubbing lopsided and binding. I'm going to buy a set of ground washers and end up completely dismantling the machine in order to fix it.
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Nov 17, 2014 23:17
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Elston Gunn posted:The kit comes with a set of precision washers for the V-wheels, or at least mine did. Yeah, the V-wheels and idler wheels have precision washers inside the wheel. [Bearing] [Washer] [Bearing]. The problem is when you have a lopsided washer between the plate and the assembled V-wheel, you end up with a lopsided fit and the wheels rub. It ends up looking like this. [Plate] /Washer/ [Bearing] It doesn't take more than a little burr when assembling things like that before it ends up being an issue. I went to the local hardware store and got some better washers for $1.22/100, and then kissed them with 320 grit sandpaper to make sure the backside was perfectly flat. The rubbing/binding on the V-wheels went away immediately. The other thing to go is to make sure to check the plates over with your fingernail, scratching around the holes to see if there is a burr caused by the cutting process or by the coating process. I'm almost done with the initial wiring, and I'll be using the machine to cut out a set of clamps for my fancy name brand Dremel. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:147565 Edit: Anddd the spoilboard is not flat at all. 0.015 rise and fall over a 5" length, enough to cause the Hello World to come out spotty and kinda 'ehhh'. Looks like I'm gonna need to replace the crappy spoilboard with something else. Methylethylaldehyde fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Nov 19, 2014 |
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Nov 18, 2014 20:03
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Cakefool posted:Can't you just reface the spoil board with the tool? Yeah, but since it's in 2 pieces, ti has enough flex that I decided to just say screw it and get the aluminum bed extrusions. Cutting fancy woods with an engravign tool would put enough pressure on the soil board to cause 10-25 thousandths worth of flex, which would ruin the part. Next I'm going to end up rewiring the entire thing and getting a limit switch setup going.
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Nov 20, 2014 09:38
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I got two sets of the thingverse cable chain, and it works well enough. Not too expensive all things considered either.
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Dec 16, 2014 21:50
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Acid Reflux posted:I haven't found a ripple generator like that yet, but I did run across a program called Standing Wave. Doesn't look quite like what you want, but it may be a starting point. One thing you'll want to do is get another sheet of MDF and use it to stiffen the waste board it comes with. The default board is kinda unsupported and sags quite a bit on the shapeoko 2.
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Mar 26, 2015 00:06
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I haven't actually Taken The Dive yet so maybe don't listen to me, but I intend to work almost exclusively in metal including steel and very quickly settled on a turnkey Taig micro-mill/CNC kit, because they're by far the sturdiest entry-level set-ups, from everything I've read here and elsewhere. In terms of 'Is a pain in the dick to machine' it goes Foam/Wax/Wood < Aluminum < Brass < Steel < Stainless Steel < Titanium < High Nickle Superalloys (Hastelloy, Waspelloy, Incolnel) < Composite Materials. I have the shapeoko 2, and I sprung for the X-Carve upgrade kit, because the entire Z-axis was a mickeymoused pain in the rear end on the Shapeoko 2. Hopefully that will alleviate the incredibly poo poo cuts I was getting with the crappy little knockoff dremel. X-Carve Z-axis, acme screw, drag chain and limit switch upgrade, spindle and power supply. It should end up a fairly usable machine after all that, more plug and go and less 'endlessly loving with it'. The Nomad looks like a pretty decent turnkey cutting solution for jewelry castings and stuff like that. Be aware that cutting MDF and wood makes more sawdust than you would ever have thought possible. You REALLY need to invest in a dust collection system for it, I ended up getting the Onieda Air Dust Deputy and looking it inline with my shopvac. Without it, the entire enclosure just gets coated in dust in like 2 minutes, it's kinda nutty. sirbeefalot posted:That's something I've wondered, re: steel milling. Will the desktop gantry-style machines handle it at all? Even really slowly, with shallow cuts? I'll look into the Taig setup too. Long and short of it is 'not really'. The physics of creating the chip require much higher cutting forces on steel than it does on aluminum or brass. With a beefy spindle (300w+ minimum), carbide tooling, and really light cuts, it'll cut, but it won't cut well or fast. If you need a motor mounting plate done up out of plate steel and have the time to baby things, you can probably do so well enough. Tolerances will probably be on the order of 15-20 thou, and your metal removal rate will be in the cubic inches per hour level, but you could cut it. The deflection in the gantry and bouncy chatter it causes will end up wearing the bits out super fast too, but if it NEEDS to be steel, and all you have is the little Shapeoko, then it'll work, just not fast, accurately, or for very long. Methylethylaldehyde fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Apr 22, 2015 |
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Apr 22, 2015 22:45
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Cakefool posted:The Asquith at work is a gantry and that had no problem going through steel, though it bigger than my house. The big gantry systems are really sweet, in that you can lockout/tagout the millhead and climb inside the thing with a pushbroom and trashcan to clean up the chips. The bridgeports are fine machines for what they do, which is one off prototype and light fab work. CNCing them tends to have issues, but is entirely doable. Once I finish my remodel, I'll probably end up buying a Tormach PCNC1100 in order to make real parts to a tolerance I can use for aerospace and automotive applications.
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Apr 23, 2015 18:31
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Cakefool posted:Ours is a couple of decades old and has no guarding, meaning although you can loto, there's nothing to stop you walking onto the bed and grabbing the spindle. And the wallpapered set of horrible industrial accident pictures letting you know what a spectacularly bad idea that would be. I just finished putting together my X-carve upgrade kit for my Shapeoko 2, and aside from the kit missing some parts due to it being an upgrade, and me being unable to source poo poo and all locally because lol Alaska, it went pretty well. The new spindle with the ER collet is loving fancy as hell, and having actual homing switches and soft limits is pretty snazzy. Methylethylaldehyde fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Jun 2, 2015 |
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Jun 2, 2015 16:35
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So yeah, go team FLIR, whoever pointed me at the E4->E8 upgrade trick deserves a beer. Having loads of fun with my shiny new toys.
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Jun 6, 2015 16:45
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Parts Kit posted:Z axis screw is definitely warped on the shapeoko. Has anyone tried the acme screw upgrade? I have, it's quite nice. The way it attaches to the machine is better, the nut turns smoother, and in general it's a lot less half-assy. On the other hand, the 24v spindle is a hunk of poo poo, it never cuts anything right, and I'm reasonably certain the EMF it's kicking out is what's causing my machine to lock up and abort early. Time to see if inventables just ships me a dewalt mount or if I have to argue with them some more.
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Dec 2, 2015 08:30
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Parts Kit posted:They started selling just the mounts a while back. I got one and it's solid. So they Mea Culpa'd pretty hard and are overnighting me a 611 and the mounting for the difference between the old spindle price and the new spindle price. Hopefully this will mean sweet sweet cuts this weekend.
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Dec 3, 2015 02:26
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Acid Reflux posted:There's been nothing but trouble with those 24V spindles from day one. You've probably seen all the posts about it if you frequent their forums at all. It's been a pretty big blemish on an otherwise great product launch, but as you saw, they've been pretty great about making it right. I lost two of them before I finally just grafted my Ridgid trim router onto the machine. Even after I owned up and told them I was pretty sure I was directly responsible for the second one's death (inattentive operator, horrifying machine crash), they still gave me credit for the price of the spindle. That's why I'm kind of a fanboy, I really think they've done their best to make good on a bad situation. In my case the entire GRBL system would either lose steps or come to a screeching halt and EndOfFile. On a stupidly long 3d carving job, it was super great. Hopefully a new spindle will go well with my nema23 steppers and let me get some useful cutting done. $1500 dollars later, my lovely Shapeoko 2 may finally be able to cut a box without crashing, failing, losing steps, slipping, or otherwise loving up the work-piece. I also plan to run the router's power cord away from the motion control cables, so I don't have to completely disassemble it, and so I don't have to deal with any other EMF related issues. I was half tempted to use shielded 20ga Cat 6e cables and using each twisted pair as a single signal cable, sorta like how balanced audio cables work.
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Dec 3, 2015 07:54
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ante posted:Fun fact! Shoppings bags are made of either LDPE or HDPE. I know many many people with huge bags full of the things, way more than they'll ever use. Look up recipes online for machining wax. I've done this, and it really does work great. This. The wires you're using to drive the system also act like little antennas, anything that is close to the same frequency or physically close to those wires will couple in and start to poo poo up the signals between things.
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Dec 5, 2015 01:56
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Parts Kit posted:The acme screw upgrade for the shapeoko 2 got in and yeah, it's a lot more smooth. You guys should definitely consider it if your z axis is squirrely like mine was. The improbable construct kit is what I got and it just dropped in with no issues, and thanks to the guy selling the kits turning down the ends of the rod to the same size as a NEMA 23 stepper motor shaft I didn't have to fiddle with anything else to get it attached to the x-carve style z axis drive. gently caress that lovely rear end Shapeoko 2 z-axis so much. God was that thing a pain in the dick to get right. Eventually I just said gently caress it and used a hot glue gun to cement the coupler onto the lovely threaded rod to keep it from slipping.
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Dec 8, 2015 20:54
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rotor posted:for tramming i just drilled a hole in a steel rod the right size for the indicator post, then cross-drilled & tapped a hole for a set screw and bent the rod in a way that lets me sweep out ~16" or so, works great, cost $2 and an hour. That's more or less the bestest halfassed way to do it, too. All the bar has to be is rigid enough to avoid deflection as you swing the indicator around, no more, no less.
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Jan 22, 2016 14:42
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CrazyLittle posted:Any chip that's not clear is more metal your mill has to cut. If you calculate the chip load correctly it should be fairly self-clearing. It's worse than that, chips your machine makes are cut with proper geometry and thickness, chips that get recut tend to smear and gall the cutter is fairly short order. It also ruins your surface finish and generally makes things look like crap.
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Feb 9, 2016 09:18
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CrazyLittle posted:Just a friendly reminder to always keep your ballscrews and table ways clean and oiled. Yep, you'll want to get or make way covers basically as soon as possible when working with wood. Wood dust converts oil into a glue-like paste, and can be mildly acidic and royally gently caress up surfaces if left long enough. Ball nuts do not like to be filled with a gritty sticky paste.
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Feb 11, 2016 22:24
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The pact is sealed. I am gonna face mill a big block of steel, simply because I now have a machine that can. Wheeeee~ 
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Feb 22, 2016 21:19
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Ambrose Burnside posted:started my tool and die program. my taig is suddenly making me feel extremely inadequate Tool and die, where you suddenly look at custom sinker EDM electrodes and say 'yeah, we could probably use those'. That and the bountiful wonders of electropolishing mold faces so you get that mirror smooth piano black bezel for ShittyHDTV 573_B.
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Sep 10, 2016 01:05
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drill press corps posted:Any concensus on tool suppliers? I need a drill bit set for my lab for 304 steel, a set for copper, and a set for iron, but the generic sets are breaking like a mofo (Lowes, McMaster-Carr, Home Despot, Etc). I need a set down to 3/64" and up to 1/2" and I am not worried too much with the price. I just want a set that will last a year. Is this on a CNC machine, or a drill press? I do mostly CNC work, so just a heads up. Name brand USA made cobalt drills, use something like HSM advisor or Gwizard to calculate the speeds and feeds, then play around with a piece of scrap to see how well they jive with reality. Copper is a ratfucker to cut nicely, and it workhardens badly, stainless and iron less so. You'll generally need to peck drill most things, and not be too afraid to blow up a bit or two figuring out what the trick is. ALWAYS center drill your holes to ~60% the drill diameter, that extra step keeps you from walking the bit then kersploding it as it tries to plunge in at a 5 degree angle. Parts Kit posted:Inventables is starting their Black Friday sale early - now through the 28th. I had a Shapeoko 2, got the upgrade kit, then got the trim router spindle, then gave it away to the local makerspace because the thing was a flaky piece of poo poo. If you do nothing but nifty calligraphic designs in wood and plastic, the thing is pretty ok, but if you don't need the build area, just get a Taig and CNC it.
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Nov 16, 2016 10:12
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Ambrose Burnside posted:If it's just dudes on a drill press there's a very good chance it's down to user error and getting better bits won't do a ton. Small drills in particular are highly consumable if you're not controlling as many working parameters as is possible like you can with CNC, it's just inevitable that people are going to get lazy setting the right spindle speed or get impatient and push that lil 3/64" bit harder than intended. I wouldn't expect even very nice small fractional drills to last a year with regular use. Drill press plus small drill bits are a nightmare when you don't have 30+ hours of skilled drill press use. Since you develop a feel for how much the cutter can take over time, giving bits 1/8" or smaller to newbies is a great way to gently caress them up. They are 100% consumable, if you have common sizes in use, order a 10-pack of replacements and just add them back to the index when they get dull/broken. Make sure they have proper workholding, the drills like to walk a little even when they're predrilled, and smaller bits aren't rigid enough to counteract the little bit of sideload/slippage you get when holding a part by hand. Make a speeds/feeds chart, laminate it and stick it next to the drill press. For really small bits, you can get one of these, so you get a much better feel for how much force you're really putting on that tiny 1/32 drill bit.
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Nov 17, 2016 02:24
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Fair warning, those style spindles are dogshit, and the shaft is held in place with this elastomeric goop instead of a real retention system, they fail early and often. Some of them are built correctly internally, but externally they all look the same. Look into getting a trim router as a spindle if/when that one gives you grief.
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Nov 28, 2016 20:29
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Any mechanical fasteners are liable to get mashed or distorted over time so if anything loosened up i wouldn't be able to fix it easily. I'll just take a crack at machining it as one piece, see how it goes with an aluminium trial run. MPG jog wheels are at best kinda so so for most milling work. I used them in school on a Fadal tool room mill and very quickly gave up in disgust. You don't get any feedback like you would on a manual mill, the start/stop jerking motion of the manual jog feeds can hammer the crap out of tools, and they're generally just not that great for most things. The joy of having a fancy pendant jog wheel type jobby is you get hardware feed override knobs, cycle start buttons, a big red e-stop button, and so on, which is really handy when the mill suddenly makes sad noises. The physical feed override knobs are the big one, you can adjust your speeds and feeds up and down 50% or more, making it a lot nicer to proof out a part where you can adjust things until it sounds happy. Once you have some decent cut recipies for the mill and material, it's super easy to turn on the spindle, then type in G1 F10 X5 in the MDI line and watch as the mill does the hard work. I do the same thing on my Tormach to square up parts all the time. P.S. Fusion 360 is free for small business owners, and is stupid powerful for all your milling and turning needs.
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Dec 23, 2016 20:24
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Yeah, I am. On paper my motor can run anything 1/4" dia and under as hard as the tool can take, and I can actually manage the spindle speeds to come close to that. I'm starting to work on steel, where some genuinely-distressing noises and a lot of vibration start cropping up even on very modest cuts, so I'm being a lot more cautious than with wood or aluminum. But yeah I just gotta do some experimenting with the safety glasses on and take notes until something breaks or the finish gets too ugly I guess I ran into something very very similar on my Tormach 1100 cutting steel parts with a 4 flute 1/2" endmill. If I did a 150/150 thou axial/radial depth of cut at 3k rpm and 8 IPM, the machine shrieked at me like you wouldn't believe. I was getting tool pullout on tools that were torqued to >50 ft*lbs. The trick was to increase the depth of cut, reduce the width of cut, and increase the feed rates a shitton. The machine is now super happy chugging along at a 400thou depth of cut, 30 thou radial cut, 3500 RPM, and 75 IPM feedrate. Happy machine sounds, and chips flying off the part like you see in those HSM demo videos on youtube. For steel cutting in any machine less rigid than a Haas, you want to push the tool to the limit, not the machine. Run the tool right at the limit of it's allowable SFM. For a 1/4" tool, that's something like 10k rpm and 100+ IPM if you're doing a .125" DOC and 10 thou radial. Run the cutter as fast as possible within the SFM limits on whatever coating you're using, take a very light radial cut, and run the machine as fast as possible.
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Jan 5, 2017 03:11
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rotor posted:i want one but everyone says you can't use carbide on the taig because it doesn't turn fast enough/have enough hp? i dunno. You can use carbide tooling regardless of what you're using it on. The little Taig will beat itself to pieces trying to use a modern coated carbide endmill as hard as they're designed to be run, but the carbide doesn't care if you're only running 5% of the design HP through it. There is a reason why ChinaBest brazed carbide turning tools are so popular, even little babby 1/4" ones, they work great compared to HSS. Insert tooling is a different story, depending on the insert geometry it can require a certain kind of cut, and you end up with a certain minimum HP and torque in order to make it play nice. You can baby the cut some, but below a certain point, you end up cutting more material with a properly sized endmill or fly cutter than you could with a 4 insert shell mill. A modern coated carbide insert has the cutting sweet spot right at about 1 HP per tooth, where lifespan, material removal rate, and surface finish are all maximized. It's why you see videos of those insane 40 insert shell mills on the really big VMCs, where they just bury it .200" deep in the part and cut an 8" wide swathe through the steel casting.
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Jan 5, 2017 23:12
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rotor posted:yeah turning tools I got covered, its replacing end mills with indexable carbide that I want to try out but I can't even find a 3/8" shank indexable carbide end mill to try, and also everyone tells me it will end in tears. You have turning tools, just turn down the shaft of a cheapo depot chinesium insert holder, and see what happens. It'll work, just not well, and certainly not for how much they cost.
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Jan 6, 2017 04:17
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evilhat posted:Closest thing I can find is http://www.banggood.com/BAP300RC10-10x120-1T-Lathe-Tool-Holder-with-APMT1135PDER-Insert-and-Wrench-p-1069858.html?rmmds=category Karia posted:This. I'd honestly say that I'd rather use hss lathe tools and carbide endmills than the other way around. They aren't a cure-all, but a nice carbide endmill is vastly, vastly more rigid than hss, and makes cuts that would be a nightmare legitimately easy even if you can't use the additional speed. I don't have much excursive experience with bench top mills, but I'm betting that tooling is a much more limiting factor than you'd expect. As another poster mentioned: large depth of cut, low step over, and feed the hell out of it. You'll be horsepower limited at some point, but carbide will let you get closer to that point, especially with small endmills you'd have to baby otherwise. Disadvantages are cost and liability for chipping if you abuse it (so again: high doc, low stepover, high feed.) If you can afford the extra few bucks per unit, getting carbide is a huge improvement over HSS in almost every application. The only thing I can think of that it's worse at is chipping out if you oops it onto the shop floor or have the mill play for you the song of it's people and chatter bad enough to fret the edges or chip a corner. It's basically twice as good at everything compared to HSS, but costs twice as much. Insert tooling is a whole other beast, and is generally for high production runs on big VMCs, because a 3" solid carbide cutter would be ruinously expensive, brazed ones were legit awful, and you can do poo poo on an insert that would be a nightmare to grind on a regular helical endmill. Now that Fusion 360 and HSM Works are a thing you can get for the low low cost of free, everyone should use the high speed machining tool paths, since they let you trade the rigidity you don't have anyways for the high speeds and feeds. The 5-7% cutter engagement means you only ever have one flute in the cut, which lets what limited horsepower you have do more, and the cutting forces are a lot lower too. I had a steel part that I was machining like a chump in 5 depth passes taking a beefy cut, like you would on a bridgeport, and once I learned the HSM recipe my mill likes, I was able to do the whole thing in one depth pass by going zoom zoom zoom on the feeds and speeds. rotor posted:so here we are back at the beginning where everyone tells me not to use carbide on the taig Regular carbide endmills? Go nuts, they're amazing. A 1/4" stub length in a taig would work sweet, since you can spin it literally as fast as you can and the tool will never really overspeed. And they're like $12 a pop. Insert tooling is $5-50/insert, plus the holder and arbor, which will run you $100+. Price the stuff out and see what you get. I mean, the insert holder will work, but how much are you willing to pay to play around with insert tooling? Methylethylaldehyde fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Jan 6, 2017 |
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Jan 6, 2017 06:48
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Karia posted:I do disagree about having one flute in the cut. One of the major advantages of the increased DoC is actually that you get multiple flutes engaged, which smooths out the cutting forces. That reduces resonance, prevents shock loading, improves surface finish, etc. If you only have 10% radial cutter engagement, you physically can't get 2 teeth in the cut unless the tool has like 6 or more cutting surfaces. Increasing depth of cut will get the upper part of the helix still engaged as the new tooth starts cutting, which would even out the cutting forces some. The increased DOC buys you a few things, you have less moment arm on the cutter, so the deeper you go, the less the depth costs you, and you're using more of the tool in the cut. If the tool is only good for 12 cutting hours, it's way better to use the entire length of it if you can, vs. trashing the bottom .200" and throwing out the other .600" that's more or less brand new. HSM as a process does a number of cool things (per some jerkwad on the internet, but I've seen the same things on my mill too) 1) Reduced cutting time per edge per revolution allows it to cool down more. 2) Chip thinning allows to increase chipload (advancement per tooth per revolution) 3) Increased depth of cut combined with shallow radial positively affects deflection. Tool bends less as it is more rigid towards the tool holder. 4) Higher cutting speed actually reduces cutting forces as heat generated in the cutting zone makes it easier to shear off a layer of metal. Yet because the time of contact is so small, most of the heat is carried away with the chip. 5) Higher RPM also allows to get rid of hot chips faster thus further reducing heat transferred to the tool. 6) Higher feedrate actually reduces relative cutting speed. 7) At high axial engagements more than one flute is in contact with the workpiece at different points along the axis of the tool. This too helps combat vibrations and chatter. 8) You are using more of the tool than just its tip, so technically you can do more work with one tool before it gets dull. 9) lastly it looks cool as hell and is very impressive. Whenever we know visitors or bosses are coming we try to make sure some HSM is going on even if application does not merit that
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Jan 7, 2017 07:19
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Karia posted:Yes, that's what I'm talking about, sorry if I was unclear. No, you're not going to get the tips of multiple flutes engaged at one time. Use higher helix tools to increase that effect. Though you can use way more flutes with HSM than normal. Yeah, the chip evacuation is another big plus, the first time I ran balls out HSM code on my Tormach, my buddies almost poo poo themselves over how far it was throwing the chips and the unending stream of them sorta spiraling around the part as it did an exterior profiling operation. Large pockets are trickier, but an air blast was enough to minimize the recutting. This actually goes over the chip thining and radial engagement parts of HSM, and has some well done machine porn comparing conventional 'grandpa with his bridgeport' milling vs. modern Trochoidal toolpaths.
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Jan 7, 2017 16:29
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CrazyLittle posted:oh ho ho ho such a fancypants machine you got there buddy. see this here is the HOBBY cnc thread, the ROTOR way. 1/8" shank or bust! I had a crappy Shapeoko 2 that I tried to get working well enough to do literally anything useful at all, and after 2 months of arguing with it, gave up in disgust and got a big boy machine that can do anything I need it to for the forseeable future. The little 770 and 440 are apparently really slick little machines for doing smaller stuff like circuit boards, small robot parts, and anything you can think of that fits on the reduced build area. Not the cheapest on the planet, but super nice. Karia posted:Pocketing is the hardest, definitely. Guessing you're already doing it, but spiraling in to make the biggest starting hole possible really helps (or even better, if you've got a tool changer: predrill.) The new dedicated HSM endmills have gouges up the flutes like a roughing endmill, but offset so you still get flat surface. If you've got a diamond wheel of the right shape probably wouldn't be too hard to grind some into a carbide endmill, that would also help with deep pockets, though you'd sacrifice some tool life. Airblast is pretty much always king, though, you're right. Yeah, the trick I learned for making through hole pockets in stuff was to spot drill, it predrill it 1/2", then spiral down the hole full depth and start hogging it all out. I need to make a little air blast manifold thing so I can run a programmable air blast at the part to blow stuff out every 2-3 seconds. Methylethylaldehyde fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Jan 10, 2017 |
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Jan 10, 2017 16:03
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polyfractal posted:Just starting to research hobby CNC machines. Before I get too deep in the weeds, any recommendations for a machine/setup that emphasizes precision over speed/size? I think I'll mainly use it for machining small plastic (acetal) gears and mechanisms, or to make master molds for resin casting. What kind of gear, what tooth pitch, and what attachment pattern? For the most part, gears are hobbed, not milled, you use a dividing head and a gear cutting tool to cut the teeth on most gears, which would need a bigger machine to do most gears, though bigger is very relative if the gears are only an inch wide.
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Jan 16, 2017 14:52
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polyfractal posted:I just did a quick search and it appears gear hobbing is non-trivial and rather specialized... not exactly DIY hobby friendly. Perhaps I should just stick to ordering mass manufactured gears. Or maybe investigate higher-res 3D printing like SLA? You can cut gears with a CNC machine and a 4th axis dividing head, which is pretty cheap compared to a true 4th axis. Look at the clickspring videos, he does a lot of that kind of thing.
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Jan 17, 2017 02:37
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Kinda outside the hobby scope of this thread, but is there some sort of really comprehensive software simulator that you could use with a Haas controller? Doesn't have to be free. My school has a bunch of Haas control simulators but they don't get used for much because the profs and techs don't think the dry run simulator that's on board is particularly good. Like, ones with all the stupid buttons like you'd find on the control panel on the machine?
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Feb 4, 2017 11:44
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Ambrose Burnside posted:The specific grievance is that they've got the physical simulator control panels on hand, so you can familiarize yourself with the actual control panel and enter codes and stuff, but the toolpath renders and graphics the onboard simulator outputs to give the user meaningful feedback is half-assed and doesn't emulate a lot of real-world conditions- like iirc it can't represent or predict most crash conditions because it doesn't factor for/care about fixtures or tooling or the physical machine constraints. You can't really do stuff like familiarize yourself with jogging around or a lot of the mundane work of the actual machining process. the immerse2learn thing Karia posted seems kinda like what's needed because it involves 3d renders of the actual machine doing actual machine things, the catch is we don't need or want software control panels because we have the real thing.
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Feb 6, 2017 00:59
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 17:59 |
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Just do some amateur carpentry and make a insulated sheetrock covered box made out of 2x4s. It won't look pretty, but it'll be quiet. Hard to see through though!
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Mar 20, 2017 17:43
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