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Audiot
May 18, 2006
I never got any complaints in any of the appartments I was in, but cleaning the chips out of the carpet to get my deposit back sucked. Now that I have a garage to work in I'm more particular and like having an enclosure to at least keep some of the swarf in.

Anyone else like watching machines crash?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb1kUCb9avw

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Audiot
May 18, 2006
If you have a boring head you could drill your part undersized, then come back and bore to size. That would keep you concentric with the spindle and (hopefully) correct any geometry errors that happened if the drill walked.

Audiot
May 18, 2006
I'm currently using D2NC (http://www.d2nc.com/) for generating gcode. It works pretty great to convert dxf's as well as having some handy wizards for quickly setting up bolt hole patterns and surfacing operations. I'm in the process of CADing up a turbine print I've been working on building forever and I can see 3D would make my life a lot easier. I keep coming back to MeshCAM. Does any one have any experience?

Audiot
May 18, 2006

mds2 posted:

But my attempts in brass turn out like poo poo:
https://www.instagram.com/p/9MifvhlSLL

Looking at the edge of the cut it looks like the cutter is smearing the metal. The chips coming off the cutter should be fine and sharp, kind of like splinters.

Keep in mind that since your running a tapered burr the larger diameter is spinning at a much higher tip speed and is capable of clearing more metal than the very fine tip. You may be getting more into the area of stirring rather than cutting. A lot of times tools similar to what you're using are used for chamfering by engaging the tool against the work piece higher up on the tool away from the tip.

Depending on your cutting strategy you might be better served using a ball endmill. The ball is wider at the base allowing it to continue cutting at the tip, but still get down into the nocks and crannies without gauging. McMaster and MSC both have huge selections of endmills in all kind of flavors.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8878a17/=zxzt9r (I took a guess that you need a 1/4" shank)

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