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Way2slow posted:I can only describe them. They are square blocks that have a multispoke gear that resembles a starfish sticking out the bottom. This gear catches the latch on the door frame and is supposed to hold. The passenger side does not catch all the time. Yeah, sounds like it. There's a cutoff at some point in the late 60's when modern latches that actually held the doors closed appeared on all British cars - it's so universal I almost wonder if it was a government rule.
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Sep 23, 2013 18:46
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Way2slow posted:I can only describe them. They are square blocks that have a multispoke gear that resembles a starfish sticking out the bottom. This gear catches the latch on the door frame and is supposed to hold. The passenger side does not catch all the time. Sounds like my Volvo latches, and could very well be the same one (I've found Volvo used a lot of common components from other manufacturers, especially british, during the 60's). They need to be lubed regularly or that happens. Cleaning and lubing it should solve the problem permanently.
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Sep 24, 2013 02:30
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My old Ford is like that too. I had to adjust the striker plate to get the passenger door to close correctly the first time, instead of taking 5 tries. Hopefully your body isn't in the wrong place due to rust, I suspect that is the problem with mine. Cab corners go out, so the door jamb isn't quite where it should be.
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Sep 24, 2013 02:55
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LloydDobler posted:Sounds like my Volvo latches, and could very well be the same one (I've found Volvo used a lot of common components from other manufacturers, especially british, during the 60's). They need to be lubed regularly or that happens. Cleaning and lubing it should solve the problem permanently. The only problem is that to remove the latch, I need to take the door panel off. This makes it a bit harder than just a few screws and fix.
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Sep 24, 2013 08:36
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If they are fiberboard panels, you can just redo them with masonite or more fiberboard, using the old one as a template. I've had to do this more than once.
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Sep 26, 2013 18:33
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Well, it looks like the thermostatic switch is toast. So I guess that's the first real electric piece other than the fuel sender, which I will need to replace, and have ordered it. But I figured, hey, I've got the original stuff, and if I want to do it right, might as well replace the radiator with an all aluminum one, along with an all aluminum surge tank and new fan. That sucker will not overheat now unless something is truly wrong inside the engine. Once the parts arrive at least...
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Sep 28, 2013 11:34
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How is the parts availability for a car like this? I'm guessing there are a select few companies who specialize in original/rebuilt parts and then maybe a few who do upgraded/modern replacement parts? How are the prices? I know these things can cost a ton to restore, but I'm guessing parts like what you've replaced/ordered don't break the bank. This is probably one of my favorite project threads I've seen here in the past 10+ years, keep up the good work!
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Sep 28, 2013 15:08
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:How is the parts availability for a car like this? I'm guessing there are a select few companies who specialize in original/rebuilt parts and then maybe a few who do upgraded/modern replacement parts? How are the prices? I know these things can cost a ton to restore, but I'm guessing parts like what you've replaced/ordered don't break the bank. If you name a part, it's in a catalog. It might be backordered, and take a few weeks to get, possibly more, but it's eventually attainable at a reasonable price.
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Sep 28, 2013 17:32
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Cakefool posted:Low rider, roof chop, flames, sbc. Aargh posted:Then throw som horrible chrome 20's on it.
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Sep 28, 2013 21:33
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This showed up a few days ago. Waiting on the thermostatic switch, and associated radiator/fan combo to install. The welds look good to me. Especially considering it's all aluminum... 
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Oct 1, 2013 02:20
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That is one gorgeous piece.
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Oct 1, 2013 03:11
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That is a work of art befitting the car. Hope the stuff you plug into it doesn't let it down.
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Oct 1, 2013 03:17
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Argh why don't they clean the drat welds!? I swear no one takes pride in their work anymore...
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Oct 2, 2013 01:56
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They look pretty clean to me ?
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Oct 2, 2013 02:21
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Because grinding down the welds on aluminum can severely affect weld integrity? Have you ever seen someone do that before?
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Oct 2, 2013 02:40
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Citycop posted:They look pretty clean to me ? All the white and black stuff is impurities from the aluminum brought up to the surface during the welding... And it looks like I can make out a couple of dips of the tungsten. djdanno13 posted:Because grinding down the welds on aluminum can severely affect weld integrity? Have you ever seen someone do that before?
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Oct 2, 2013 02:40
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I've discovered, from when I was considering a career as a welder, that the #1 thing about being a welder is you get to critique other people's welds. It's like being an art critic only much less subjective. I found myself looking at every weld I saw and thinking either "Wow, that's quite well done." or "Pfft, I could do better than that!".
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Oct 2, 2013 02:45
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I do it too much I feel. It scares me looking at some of the harbor freight stuff they sell, or that I own.
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Oct 3, 2013 00:14
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Aargh posted:Then throw som horrible chrome 20's on it. No one even makes 20's for this car that don't require extensive modification. It's spline drive up front with knock offs, not a 4 or 5 bolt lug pattern.
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Oct 6, 2013 19:18
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Wait, how exactly do the wheels attach?
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Oct 6, 2013 19:57
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Splined shafts, E: with big rear end wing nuts
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Oct 6, 2013 20:29
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Cakefool posted:Splined shafts, And a lead hammer.
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Oct 6, 2013 21:40
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:And a lead hammer. Named "Thor".
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Oct 6, 2013 23:39
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Classy as gently caress.
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Oct 6, 2013 23:47
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The only problem, is that it's relatively difficult to find tire shops willing to mount tires on the spoke rims. So I ordered some old style rims that use the same spline drive that are still classy, but no spokes. Besides, that allows me to pull the original rims like those in the picture and clean them up better, and have them for shows or something like that.
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Oct 7, 2013 08:36
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Spoked wheels are the best wheels 
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Oct 7, 2013 08:54
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At the risk of telling you something you already know, two of the spinners (US drivers side I think) are left hand thread. I haven't seen it mentioned yet and it often catches out people who aren't expecting it. It should say on the spinner which way to tighten/loosen if they aren't too rusty. Also, beautiful car. Good luck!
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Oct 7, 2013 10:50
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KozmoNaut posted:Spoked wheels are the best wheels Agreed. Also this piccy answers your man's question above. 
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Oct 7, 2013 12:24
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Trippy. How do they lock into place?
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Oct 7, 2013 23:01
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On the other day I saw Wheelers Dealers. They were restoring an e-type and I thought right away of this thread. It's interesting how they restore the wheels: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Ll10oiQl6w
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Oct 7, 2013 23:10
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Camoes posted:On the other day I saw Wheelers Dealers. They were restoring an e-type and I thought right away of this thread. It's interesting how they restore the wheels: At 3 pounds a spoke, that's almost $6US/spoke. More than just a few spokes would likely be replaced per wheel, so uh. I think I'll learn how to do one more thing.
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Oct 8, 2013 04:06
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Knobjockey posted:At the risk of telling you something you already know, two of the spinners (US drivers side I think) are left hand thread. I haven't seen it mentioned yet and it often catches out people who aren't expecting it. It should say on the spinner which way to tighten/loosen if they aren't too rusty. The spinners are actually individually marked with arrows to loosen and tighten, so yeah, reading comprehension and you'll be fine.
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Oct 8, 2013 04:07
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The radiator is now here, but the thermostatic switch I am still waiting on. No sense in doing the install until that gets here. More welds for you to criticize though.  Yes, I am aware it is currently upside down.
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Oct 25, 2013 01:17
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Needs a real shroud. Also, local parts place should have a thermostatic fan controller.
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Oct 25, 2013 02:36
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mafoose posted:Needs a real shroud. Not one in the correct shape. This is an oddly shaped piece that bolts into the surge tank.
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Oct 26, 2013 19:52
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I tuned mixture, idle, and fast idle and completely synchronized the carbs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utuh5daSYKo Runs much smoother now, but still waiting on the switch to put the new radiator, expansion tank and fan in.
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Nov 4, 2013 21:01
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Why is that door so tiny? Also when are driving videos coming?
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Nov 4, 2013 21:14
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iv46vi posted:Why is that door so tiny? Also when are driving videos coming? That's the way the doors are. It's a tight fit to get in, to say the least. Driving videos come when the thermo switch arrives, which means the aluminum radiator, surge tank, and fan all go in, as well as some rims & tires that I can safely drive on show up. A lot of places (read tire shops) don't want to mount tires onto wire rims, so I had to source some non wire rims that went in place without any modification to the spline drive setup that was on the car from the factory.
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Nov 4, 2013 21:17
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Way2slow posted:Besides, that allows me to pull the original rims like those in the picture and clean them up better, and have them for shows or something like that. I wouldn't do that man, that will rankle the autism of the people who are into these cars like nothing else, myself included. Get the wheels properly reconditioned, and find a shop that isn't employing stoned teenagers.
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Nov 5, 2013 16:57
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Go to a Mexican tire shop, we've got lots of experience with wire wheel 
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Nov 6, 2013 02:27
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