|
Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Is that a CK torch? Yes, CK20 Flex Head. It's awesome and made just a few hours up I-5 from me. 
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2013 18:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 06:18 |
|
|
Well if the guy is full of poo poo can't you sue him or at the least threaten to? I know you said you've got plenty of business coming in, but if the guy turns slandering you into a hobby, shouldn't you do something about it? Got any friends/customers that are lawyers that could help you out?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2013 18:24
|
|
|
leica posted:Well if the guy is full of poo poo can't you sue him or at the least threaten to? Slander is hard to prove from a standpoint of its impact on your image or business. In this case he could point out the unfounded comments about his character and business practices, but would have a hard time proving it damaged his reputation and business if the workload is backlogged with people lining up. You could have a lawyer approach him and offer a settlement based on the potential for legal action. It would get expensive though and who knows if the individual could even pay if the court decided their was grounds for compensatory and punitive damages. At that point you have only strengthened the person's resolve to be a rock in your shoe as much as possible and spent a lot of money to get his garnished wages if any.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2013 18:33
|
|
|
I'm waiting to see what happens. He is not hurting my business, mainly because neither of the idiots work on 3rd gens (thank god). Idiot 2 has been banned from almost every club for ripping people off and has claimed he is "Selling everything and getting out of the rotary game" at least a dozen times now. It will only be so long until he does something really stupid. To give a quick rundown of the quality of work I have seem from both idiots: 1) RTV used to plug fuel injector bungs on a FI to carb swap. 2) Front cover bolt fell out after 20 miles on a "fresh" rebuild. 3) JBWELD used as intake manifold gasket sealer. 4) "Screaming motor with new seals/housings"- that had all OEM 3piece used seals and trashed housings. 5) Porting that ate side seals because it was too drat big. 6) RTV used to rebuild a carb (no gaskets, leaked like a siv). 7) 12v power wire stripped and shoved in to a plug with zip ties holding it in place. 8) Zip ties instead of hoseclamps on coolant lines. The RHD white car was apparently Idiot 2's "show winning shop car"- It was a 10ft'r at best. The paint had runs, there was terrible body work, the RHD clip was bird poo poo welded on. Another bit of irony, he crashed it after leaving my house and buying front sway bar links- because he had none and decided to take a 30mph corner at 80 on the way home.... Like I said, I "love" my local community. the spyder fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Aug 20, 2013 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2013 18:36
|
|
|
More cheap parts for us! There's a silver lining  . I wonder what happens to all these mistakes. I don't see them in junk yards. They must just end up in the yards of parts hoarders.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2013 19:42
|
|
|
No clue, but I digress. People can choose whom ever they want to work on their cars- but I won't be fixing any of the mess those two create. /rant
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2013 22:58
|
|
|
parid posted:I wonder what happens to all these mistakes. I don't see them in junk yards. They must just end up in the yards of parts hoarders. I'm pretty sure a lot of the 'victims' commit insurance fraud - you're looking in the wrong junkyards. Either that or it just ends up in a legitimate shop's metal scrap pile when the victim tries to get it fixed. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Aug 20, 2013 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2013 23:19
|
|
|
A lot of that drama reminds me why I haven't logged into rx7club in years.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2013 13:11
|
|
|
I'm afraid all of this will get worse before it get's better. I'm just going to ignore it for now. Idiot 2 came back this morning and posted a CL ad of my FD after it got stripped. I talked to a former friend/business partner of his and holy crap, he is apparently loosing it. Completely unstable. It's a shame, he'd doing nothing but hurting the community around him and the cars he loves. Back to important stuff: I have 4 days to wrap up this vmount and the shop get's roofed Saturday.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2013 19:01
|
|
|
These late nights are starting to get to me. I had to add a radiator to my watercooler- the higher amps/cast was starting to get it a bit too hot. Thankfully I had a spare FD heatercore. Some silver solder later and a cheap 110v fan = much cooler. I'm waiting for my stainless steel   Aluminum gets hot QUICK. My fingers are still glazed.  I'm still a shittywelder, but it shall hold!     Hump hoses showed up.  Coolant hose routing. The lowest part of the car is still the frame/swaybar.   Welded the old twin turbo water lines closed.  Extended the fan wiring. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2013 18:49
|
|
|
If you're going to be doing a lot of aluminum check this out: http://www.weldmongerstore.com/tig-finger/ It will change your religion. I'm about to pick up an older hobart tigwave and resell it to pay for a new Everlast 225LX tig.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2013 23:00
|
|
|
Ponies ate my Bagel posted:If you're going to be doing a lot of aluminum check this out: http://www.weldmongerstore.com/tig-finger/ It will change your religion. I'm about to pick up an older hobart tigwave and resell it to pay for a new Everlast 225LX tig. I ordered a 3 pack a few days back- I couldn't have gotten this far without Jody's videos.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 00:02
|
|
|
the spyder posted:I ordered a 3 pack a few days back- I couldn't have gotten this far without Jody's videos. I've been watching them non-stop for about a week. That guy is awesome, I keep playing with my HF cheapo welder whining to my wife that I want a tig... Now she wants to learn to weld after watching his video's, maybe I can convince her we need a tig and an MPS system...
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 00:06
|
|
|
I want to get a helium bottle and mixing valve now, haha. I think I watched his entire channel a month or so back.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 00:14
|
|
|
the spyder posted:I want to get a helium bottle and mixing valve now, haha. I think I watched his entire channel a month or so back. Almost every episode I found some new toy I wanted. Now I just have to figure out paying for them. My poor little shop is having a crisis, it doesn't know whether it's a moto shop or a metal shop! I bet that car is going to run like a raped ape, I really like the intercooler setup, I've never seen it done like that before.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 00:17
|
|
|
The TIG finger looks like a spark plug wire boot. I think I have one laying around...
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 01:49
|
|
|
I tried a few things, but nothing worked and without his videos I never could have got this far. Figured it was a good way to show support.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 07:31
|
|
|
Tonight Oregon reminded me summer is coming to an end... with a nice shower. I worked through it, but did not get any where close to where I had hoped to be. Speaking of Tig fingers- they showed up along with my new procon pump, pressure valve, and ss roasting pan.  They have something folded inside that makes them semi rigid and shape-able.  Finished the radiator piping and plumbing.    Great example of what a Tig finger helps with- the cast end tanks were pre-heated to 250f. There's no way I could have rested my hand on that.  BOV installed.  Got the fuse box cleaned up, non AC belt installed on the powersteering, Greddy pulleys installed, and everything closer.  The owner would like to get it Saturday, but I have no idea if that's possible. I still have to do the following. 1) Install fuel lines 2) Install coil packs 3) Install oil filler neck 4) Setup PCV and OMP vac lines 5) Bolt turbo completely to block 6) Plumb wastegate 7) Plumb BOV 8) Fit and trim existing midpipe and weld vband on 9) Install battery box, run 2G wire. 10) Install Turbo oil lines 11) Make and install block off plates 12) Cap all unnecessary vac lines 13) Fix stripped nutset 14) Bolt everything up. 15) Make powersteering cooler loop 16) Fill with fluids and pray, hahaha. If I have time, I also want to modify his undertray to still fit. But it does not look good for a Saturday pickup.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 07:41
|
|
|
Speak of the devil, awesome to see the tig fingers show up. Oh and a deadline! All you need now is some roid raging douche screaming and yelling constantly and you have a reality show my friend! Just kidding, looks like good work. How do you dyno a rotary? Do you need a different type of dyno than a "normal" engine? I'd love to know what numbers that thing puts down.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 16:50
|
|
|
Ponies ate my Bagel posted:How do you dyno a rotary? I feel like making a joke here about paying Mazda for a uniquely designed piece of equipment... Same as any other car. The dynos you are thinking of (chassis dynos) don't directly measure the engine. They measure the tires. As such, the dyno doesn't care what is powering the tires, so it could be a small army of hamsters for all it matters. As long as the tires are capable of moving in the direction and rotation of a normal vehicle (if they can't then you either have something wrong, or a car that doesn't move as expected) then you can dyno it. Hub dynos are the same, instead of measuring the tires, its measuring the hubs. Same principals as above. An engine dyno (ie dynoing the actual engine on a bench, not inside the car), is still the same thing for a rotary as it is a piston engine, since the dyno attaches to the output shaft of the engine. Again, its the same principal as with the chassis dynos above, the dyno just measures the output shaft, it doesn't care how the engine actually turns the shaft. The only difference between an engine dyno and a chassis dyno is that you don't have the entire drive train between the engine and the dyno causing power losses that you have to fudge to "calculate" what the actual power of the engine is. The only unique diagnostic tool I've seen for rotaries to date is a compression tester. Since rotaries have three combustion chambers, to have a truly accurate compression reading you need a tool that recognizes its seeing three independent compression pulses and treating them accordingly. Using a standard piston compression tester from the parts store can give you a rough idea, but its like plumbing it into three piston spark plug holes at once. You can get a max reading of the three pistons, but if one is dead, the other two will mask it's condition.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 17:36
|
|
|
So just to get an idea of what you're doing to this car......Is this single turbo setup more reliable and powerful than a twin turbo setup? I'm assuming even an upgraded twin setup would be close to the stock setup, correct? What are the issues with twin setups that everyone wants to get away from? I guess i just want to know a little more about the quirks of FDs and how they are fixed....How do you make a stock FD more "reliable"?
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 17:56
|
|
|
leica posted:So just to get an idea of what you're doing to this car......Is this single turbo setup more reliable and powerful than a twin turbo setup? I'm assuming even an upgraded twin setup would be close to the stock setup, correct? What are the issues with twin setups that everyone wants to get away from? You make it more reliable by throwing modern technology at it In my opinion, the twin setup attempts to address issues with older turbo technology that don't exist as much anymore. At the time of the FD's design, you basically had either a turbo that was responsive and provided low end power, but "choked" at the high end, or a turbo that didn't do squat at the low end, and provided good high end power. A twin setup uses one of each to create a system that theoretically ideal for every situation, thus overcoming the limitations of either single turbo. Unfortunately to accomplish this, you need a complex control system (complexity means more things to fail) and even then, you don't quite eliminate the limitations, but just mask them. These days, you can throw a "mid-sized" turbo at the car that will be as responsive as the small one, but still provide high end power like the large one, without any of the complexity or screwy torque dips from duct taping two turbos together.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 18:53
|
|
|
So are you saying that these days it's not suicidal to dream of a reliable FD? :O
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 18:58
|
|
|
Squeeze posted:So are you saying that these days it's not suicidal to dream of a reliable FD? :O I'd say it depends on your level of commitment and the size of your wallet. You'll never escape reputation that you should just throw a LS in it though
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 19:12
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:You'll never escape reputation that you should just throw a LS in it though I never understood this line of thinking. There is already an affordable, excellent performing car that comes with an LS. It's known as a C5 Corvette, and it comes that way from the factory! It's the same with LS swaps into things like 240SX's; just buy a drat Camaro.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 21:25
|
|
|
This might amaze you but some people don't find Camaros and Corvettes aesthetically pleasing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 21:30
|
|
|
rscott posted:This might amaze you but some people don't find Camaros and Corvettes aesthetically pleasing. This and sometimes the build portion is the most interesting to some of us.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 21:41
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:I'd say it depends on your level of commitment and the size of your wallet. You'll never escape reputation that you should just throw a LS in it though So if you acquired a completely stock FD, what would you do to it right off the bat to "update" it? Or for instance, if a customer wanted one for a daily driver, nothing over the top, just decent power with more focus on reliability?
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2013 22:18
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2013 06:47
|
|
|
leica posted:So if you acquired a completely stock FD, what would you do to it right off the bat to "update" it? Or for instance, if a customer wanted one for a daily driver, nothing over the top, just decent power with more focus on reliability? IIRC the first thing you want to do on a stock FD is put a downpipe in it
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2013 07:15
|
|
|
This is beautiful.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2013 07:20
|
|
|
gently caress that is good looking
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2013 13:07
|
|
|
Wow, what a gorgeous car. I wish FD's weren't so expensive  Ryno you know what you need to do.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2013 18:06
|
|
|
leica posted:Wow, what a gorgeous car. I wish FD's weren't so expensive I'm working on it. A "nice" FD would clean me out so I'm sacking away as much cash as I can. Nodoze and I have been talking about this on FB for a week or so.
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2013 03:42
|
|
|
Well. gently caress. My weekend, while awesome- loving sucked. Here are the radiator brackets.   Custom vband downpipe. I had to MIG weld it. Not ideal, but it worked.  Relocated the battery.  Bleeding the cooling system was pretty easy.  Turbo blanket to protect everything.  General pics.          I ordered some Mazda protege wheel center caps and stuck them in my 17" Piaa's- looks close enough to factory 99 wheels for now, haha.  We pulled the black car apart Saturday morning while waiting for a 3rd friend to help us roof the shop.  Here was our ~5 hours of progress Saturday afternoon.   Sadly, it then proceeded to pour Sunday, thanks Oregon! This soaked the exposed insulation and prevented us from doing anything shop related until it drys out this week. So I decided to work on my Tig cooler. Bad idea. I was slightly hung over. The resivor, pump, and gauges showed up.  The "new" pump off ebay ended up being used, drat it.   I forged ahead making a lid with motor mounts. I love having a nut riveter.   And this is the temp mockup.  Everything went to hell about here... SOB. The "new" pump apparently had a bad internal pressure regulator. This hosed my radiator, gauge, and pissed me off. I've never blown up a heater core quite like this before...  I ripped off the new pump, found a transmission cooler and put the old setup back together. SOB.   For now it works, I've returned the gauge and contacted the pump seller.  After that fuckery, my brother decided to do his brakes on the Miata of Doooom.  I primered the frame rail on the white FD.  Installed the 99 copy wheels.  Started to install the oil coolers,  Installed my Racing Beat Dual-Tip catback  And installed a head unit.  Hopefully the weather will hold out and I can get a roof on this drat building next weekend.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2013 22:11
|
|
|
leica posted:So if you acquired a completely stock FD, what would you do to it right off the bat to "update" it? Or for instance, if a customer wanted one for a daily driver, nothing over the top, just decent power with more focus on reliability? Step one would be going through the car, and getting it to "like new" condition. Things like doing the 60k service, replacing all the rubber, getting the injectors cleaned, replacing all the vacuum lines, refreshing the suspension etc. Basically everything should be in good working condition, similar to when it rolled off the factory line. Keeping up with that is probably 95% of having a reliable car. Its a bit more extensive on the FD because the engine bay heat tends to cook components, and it seems like Mazda likes inventing unique parts for every model which inflates prices. Assuming that's done, I'd start doing a bit of modding. What I would do is maybe not what someone else would do. When you start modding, I think its important to think about what you want the end result to be, and work towards that. Someone who wants a 700 HP drag car is probably going to mod differently than me. Things I'd do in no particular order for easing reliability: I'd strip out the pre-cat. It doesn't do anything once the car warms up, and tends to easily clog. Its whole purpose is to cleanup cold start emissions on the EPA test. No state emissions program I know of cares about it. Look at heat management. I might upgrade the radiator, depends on the end goal of the car. Probably a new engine wiring harness (even if the stock one seems good) with some higher temp wiring then usually used for automotive applications, and maybe some heat insulation like gold foil. Might seem like overkill and off of some ricer's car, but I care more about cooking the harness then how it looks. I'd also look at keeping the heat in the exhaust, where it belongs, through ceramic coating or other measures. I'd also evaluate airflow through the radiator as there are some places you could add ducting to make it better. Turbo upgrades. Last time I looked at turbos for FDs, I found a few choices that would be slightly better than stock output, would choke just a hair at the top end, have all the responsiveness of the twin system, with a better torque curve. You'd eliminate a turbo, and all of the complexity of the sequential control system like the exhaust manifold, the water lines Spyder pointed out, and a bunch of vacuum lines. A VMIC setup, even without a vented hood, like what Spyder posted would be my ideal. TMIC tends to be just plain stupid, and I'm not sure it would fit. The stock SMIC system seems to contribute to airflow issues, and there doesn't seem to be room to expand it. FMIC on a rotary is very bad in my opinion as you reduce the efficiency of the radiator, which tends to be a critical component. What you do here will likely have a large impact on the heat management section above. Remove the OMP system and pre-mix. Pre-mixing is a PITA, but it allows you to run synthetic oil without much concern (synthetic brands usually don't burn well, but there are a few exceptions), and based on a number of engine tear-downs it seems to lubricate way better. Drive it. Redline pulls off of every stoplight.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2013 22:34
|
|
|
the spyder posted:<car porn> Well I know what I'm looking at for the next hour
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2013 22:37
|
|
|
My painter just called, everything is ready. Why do I feel like a giddy school girl? If nothing goes wrong Friday, I will be tossing a new 5th gear syncro in the White FD's transmission and swapping my drivetrain in. 
the spyder fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Aug 26, 2013 |
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2013 23:27
|
|
|
the spyder posted:
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2013 23:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 24, 2024 06:18 |
|
|
I'm an idiot. Found out the Procon pump I had was set at 250psi, not 60. I trusted the fellow on eBay that this was a Tig pump and blindly just tossed everything together. Lesson learned. Always double check part numbers. Thankfully I found a fellow who will sell me a new spring for the internal regulator, which should fix my problem. In other news: A friend bought me a strut bar in trade for some work. It was pretty rough s0 I decided to paint it black.        Installed my Triumph fast AIT sensor while the engine was out.    I also fixed two mistakes on my behalf- I'm running a rather uncommon setup- no emissions, but full sequential twins. I thought I checked all my solenoids but it appears I have a leaking one (imagine that). I can't hold vacuum on the control system for more then a few seconds and the check valves/vac chamber all test good. I'm going to tear it apart tonight and find the culprit.  And I did not seal the oil pan well enough. poo poo. This is going to suck to change on the hoist.  Brake update on the Miata: Gun Kote is awesome. 
the spyder fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Aug 27, 2013 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2013 18:40
|
|