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We stapled the pex to the foam every 24", put 16" O.C rebar on top of that, and then poured 6" of concrete- if a 3/8th's deep cut can hurt that, I am screwed. Haha.
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Nov 23, 2013 06:29
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This weekend should have been spent putting a motor in the black 93 R1, but part delays held that up. Instead, my neighbor brought home a dump truck and bobcat, hauled two loads of gravel and leveled it for me. The best part, it was cheaper then paying the local quarry to deliver it!       We pulled the forms and insulated the slab before he brought the gravel up to the shop. We also got the first wall's worth of material inside and all the sil plates installed. Tomorrow we start framing walls. I'm exhausted.
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Nov 25, 2013 01:47
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I rode in an FD today, thought about you.~~~
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Nov 25, 2013 02:39
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Was it broken? First day of working on the shop = mild success. I did not take any pictures though. Two walls are up and I purchased the windows tonight. Tomorrow we can frame the last part of the east wall and put it up. After that, I am hoping we can get at least two-four of the north walls framed and up. It goes darn quick (if you are not trying to keep a 1/16th tolerance- lol). I did drive my white FD tonight to the bank. I miss driving it, I really need to tune it.
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Nov 26, 2013 05:46
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Progress:       
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Nov 27, 2013 07:14
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I only was able to work a half day today. Three friends stopped by for a few hours and helped me finish the sil plates, moved all the lumber/garage doors/building materials inside, and lay out the next two wall sections. After they left, I measured and cut all the boards for the next four wall sections. Pending I don't food coma tomorrow, I am going to try and nail the remaining wall sections to put up Friday. I have a TON of help coming Friday and I am hoping to raise the wall sections, frame the next 5 wall sections, and sheet at least 1/3rd the building. Sunday/Monday is calling for low 30's high and snow. At least everything is under a roof now instead of plastic  . Happy Thanksgiving.   
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Nov 28, 2013 06:32
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It's been cool watching the progress on your shop. Keep up the good work and keep posting pics!
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Nov 29, 2013 16:19
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Thanks! Todays progress: Four friends showed up and we got the four wall sections up. I also had them cut all the blocking and help layout the end wall sections for tomorrow. I only have one helper tomorrow, but we should be able to get the end wall sections finished. Sunday I should have 3-5 people over again and we will try to build the last two garage door walls and possibly toss up a row of sheeting around the base of the building. This would let me raise the plastic and encase the entire building just as the temps drop in to the 30's (1c).    
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Nov 30, 2013 07:09
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Never seen an RX-7 I'd actually want to own. Now I've seen several. Maybe I've just never seen one without a metric fuckton of lovely mods duck taped all over it though.
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Dec 1, 2013 21:45
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That's sadly pretty common. Well, I hate to say it, but I did not get everything done I wanted on my vacation/holiday break. We were not able to get the last two walls up tonight. The weather today was stormy and soaked the inside of the shop. I'm really regretting not buying taller plastic and wrapping all the way up under the eaves. Here is where I ended Saturday night. Nice and dry.   And todays progress.   It's SOAKING. This has me worried. We are getting down in to the 20's this week and the cement contractor told me to keep the slab dry to prevent freezing/cracking in the expansion joints.   So after work this week, I'm going to try and get some more plastic up on the SW exposure. Hopefully I can get it done before it gets colder later in the week .
the spyder fucked around with this message at 05:40 on Dec 2, 2013 |
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Dec 2, 2013 05:37
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Man I have been there. I finished the roof on my shed last year as ice pellets were hailing down on me. Just pile on as much weather proofing as you can to save the inside, even if your garage has to look like poo poo until spring.
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Dec 2, 2013 07:58
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In addition to getting the wrapping up to the eaves, use a large broom to sweep the majority of the water off the slab, and run fans inside. Air movement will help get the water into the air far more quickly. Also, run all the space heaters you have inside the shop area. Won't make a huge difference to the overall internal temperature, but warmer air = faster absorption of water. You won't likely hit 100% relative humidity, so I wouldn't worry too much about water dropping out as it cools. Conversely you could throw down a bunch of salt, which would lower the freezing point of water, but I'm not sure what damage that might do to the slab. I'm assuming you can't turn on the in floor heating yet as it's not fully connected, right?
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Dec 2, 2013 20:42
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Thankfully the rain died off and the wind kept up, drying out most of the slab. We had swept the water in to a corner and used a wet vac to remove what we could before we finished up for the night. It's supposed to freeze/snow tonight. You are correct, I can not hook up the heating yet. I'm lacking a few parts and electricity out to the building. Speaking of, I'm going to fill out the paperwork from PGE at lunch. Here's hoping for 3-phase!
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Dec 2, 2013 21:12
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My garage has 240/1P, what size service are you trying to get? Most electric motors are tri-voltage these days (208-230/460) so unless you need 230/3P 460 is better because your wire size can be smaller. And I figured you had already thought about sweeping the water off / the rest of it (and probably the above electrical stuff too!) but hey, never know!
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Dec 2, 2013 21:59
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I'm going for what ever I can get. Ideally 208/3ph due to the older equipment I run (bridgeports/lathes/ect). If I can only get 240/1ph, I'm hoping for a 200amp service. There is a possibility of us getting larger CNC mill/lathes in the near future that run 10hp + 3ph motors and I would hate to have to use a phase converter.
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Dec 2, 2013 22:26
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Ah, cool stuff. Phase converters are loving expensive though. If you hit that point take a look at using a VFD to generate the extra phase instead. Not sure if it's just because of the quantities we buy where I work, but typically our pricing on VFD's is better than phase converters.
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Dec 2, 2013 22:57
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I'm running one on my Bridgeport right now. Some older motors do not play nicely though with VFD's and a CNC would require a rotary-phase converter, as it's not just the motor that requires 3ph. We have a 7.5hp rotary converter right now (not setup). I can't wait to get these machine moved in and wired up. I haven't gotten to make anything fun in months.
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Dec 2, 2013 23:08
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It's getting cold around here. I spent the last two nights working in the shop with it getting down to the low 20's. Tonight it's already in the teen's and I don't feel like freezing my rear end off. In car news, I am putting the black FD back together Saturday (or at least attempting to.)
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Dec 6, 2013 05:52
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I ended up working from home today and wasn't planning on working on the building, but a friend came over and my brother ended up coming home from work at lunch. This quickly turned in to a "well, we might as well put up the last two walls." It's 20 out and with wind, about 15. Our little propane heater did little more then act as a finger warmer ever 15 minutes. I'm not used to this cold weather. Anways, the walls are up! Everything measured out and when it gets warmer next week I will finish nailing everything up. Then we can start installing blocking and start wrapping the building in CDX.        
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Dec 7, 2013 02:47
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I'm every shade of green with envy. It's not until now I realize how tall the structure is (seeing the door.) Should work very nicely for lifts and storage.
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Dec 7, 2013 16:25
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Good news and bad news. First, I hosed up the left garage door. A keen eye will notice the 1.5" gap at the bottom and 0" gap at the top... I accidentily centered it just like the other garage door wall- which has two trusses per post, while the end posts only support 1. A easy fix, just annoying. Next weekend I will pull it down and fix it. Otherwise- the 93 R1 is finished!                Cleaned up a REW I have been helping a friend with while I was at Pineapple today- I don't work on engines much, but this guy bought a car and the motor went after 1 month so we are giving him a hand. (It was previously damaged- dealer ripped him off.)  The first car has been pulled in to the new shop. 93 Touring with 65k and a Greddy turbo kit. A friend of customer just picked it up. It needs some TLC... also fuel injection rated fuel hose... (Currently running not for fuel injection hose...)   I finally fixed my POS drill and put a real chuck on it- no more slipping keyless bullshit for me! 
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Dec 9, 2013 05:05
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Does the rebar help hold up the concrete evenly? How much pressure might be pressing down on the foam?
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Dec 9, 2013 06:53
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The rebar just helps the concrete remain compressively loaded at all times rather than being under tensile loading in some circumstances, it doesn't hold the cement up at all. All of the weight of the cement (and everything on top of it) is on the foam.
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Dec 10, 2013 01:35
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Correct, rebar unless laid out in a specific patter/load bearing setup, does not add to the compressive strength of concrete. It's main purpose is crack control. This is why ground prep is so important. Your concrete on top is only as good as what you pour it on.
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Dec 11, 2013 00:08
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the spyder posted:Correct, rebar unless laid out in a specific patter/load bearing setup, does not add to the compressive strength of concrete. It's main purpose is crack control. This is why ground prep is so important. Your concrete on top is only as good as what you pour it on. This explains my cracked driveway  (note: I didn't pour it, and it's so old it might be before they invented rebar )
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Dec 11, 2013 05:15
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Mat_Drinks posted:This explains my cracked driveway Usually driveway cracks are from the surface underneath shifting due to running water or whatever under the slab. That's why my driveway cracks at least. Dunno if I've ever seen a driveway slab with rebar. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Dec 11, 2013 |
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Dec 11, 2013 05:17
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Another reason is if they didn't properly compact the fill. If they dug down to level in most areas and had to use some of that to fill in a deeper spot and didn't pack it as tightly as the ground around it is packed (very difficult without a lot of work or one of those vibratory compactors you see on construction sites) then that spot will sink over time and the slab will crack over it if any significant load is placed there. This is also why old patches to holes dug in roads for pipes/repairs tend to either be mounded up or sunken down. If you dig a hole in a road, that dirt is never gonna fit back in unless you put it in about 6 inches at a time and run a compactor over it for a while before tossing down another layer, so if they put all the dirt that came out back in, the patch will be a mound in the road. If they put it in, packed it down as best they could, said gently caress it and paved over it, it'll sink down rather quickly. Even after 2-3 repavings and a decade of driving you can usually see the outline of an old lovely repair within a few months because small stress cracks will form along the edges. Always, always, always compact your fill properly. Footings should be poured ideally on completely undisturbed subsoil, but a really good packing job can be OK with good quality clean fill. That brings up another point I forgot, don't ever pour or pave over loam/topsoil/unclean fill, it won't support the weight properly or last and will buckle and crack and sink quickly.
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Dec 11, 2013 18:41
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kastein posted:Another reason is if they didn't properly compact the fill. If they dug down to level in most areas and had to use some of that to fill in a deeper spot and didn't pack it as tightly as the ground around it is packed (very difficult without a lot of work or one of those vibratory compactors you see on construction sites) then that spot will sink over time and the slab will crack over it if any significant load is placed there. At work this August they cut up and replaced a 30mx30m internal pad that normally has press tools stored on it, total weight around 1500t. When they cut it into sections the middle dropped about 150mm, 20 years of automotive presses thumping away had done a proper job of compacting that the original contractors hadn't.
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Dec 11, 2013 22:37
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This weeks lack of progress has me discouraged. I did however buy a siding/sheathing nailer and this weekend I am going to try and get some CDX up on the exterior. Otherwise, no updates.
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Dec 14, 2013 20:33
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Fellow Rotorhead chiming in for encouragements sake. My Z33 and My FD the day I got her.  Ontario RX-7 Meet at Forks of the Credit   She's almost entirely stock, 93 Touring with PEG, R1 chinsplitter, R1 strut bar, JDM Y-pipe, HKS SSQ BOV LOL, Spirit R Nardi steering wheel, RZ OEM Recaro bucket with slide and tilt rail Carbon Kevlar OEM Recaro. These seats always look washed out in photos, but this one only has 12,000kms on it - so trust me when I say it looks brand new.   
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Dec 18, 2013 21:19
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^  I love the look of FD's but hate how tiny they are inside. No love for people over 6'. I rode along in a friend's at an autocross with a helmet on and my spine was already compressed just sitting in it.
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Dec 19, 2013 02:00
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Larrymer posted:^ I can't even get my legs under the dash to reach the pedals
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Dec 19, 2013 02:19
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I only fit in a R1/R2 with a helmet @ 6'1". The touring is a tight firm but not uncomfortable.
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Dec 19, 2013 02:27
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Shop update: I'm an idiot. Here's what we got done last weekend and what we will be re-doing this weekend.      The long of the short is: Always read your plans. I misread something two weeks back and did not double check the plans. I did not do my panel spacing correctly and now I get to pull about 500 nails. Live and learn. The good news is, all the blocking is ok and that's what took most the time last time. Hopefully this will be a quick fix.
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Dec 19, 2013 02:44
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Scrodes posted:Ontario RX-7 Meet at Forks of the Credit It's a small world after all. I'm about 15 minutes from there, in Orangeville. Beautiful car. I've been lurking this thread, watching your shop go up and hoping I'll have the opportunity to build one someday. It looks awesome, spyder. And at least you don't have a pile of snow on the ground, plus more on the way.
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Dec 19, 2013 03:52
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Larrymer posted:^ Hence the high prices for the OEM Recaros, with the slide and tilt rail, mine bought me about 3" of headroom. The Nardi wheel is also smaller, giving a much more organic feel to the steering (similar in my experience to only the E46 M3). I now fit perfectly, but I don't have room to heel-toe yet. I actually have more trouble fitting in General's NSX. I also don't fit in Gallardos. Tough life I lead. My DD is a Focus ST - all the Z's are gone. I couldn't do the Z34; the engine is so coarse and uninspired. Besides - you do not pass up the opportunity to own a MINT stock FD.
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Dec 19, 2013 04:17
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Aaaaand my feet are ready to fall off. Haha. We ripped the panels off and fixed them. But first, I fixed my old work light. I got tired of burning the halogen bulb out and decided to retro fit it.      Midway through the tear out.  Proper nailing and spacing done.   Blocking and (no picture) one row of panels installed on the north wall.  Done for the night. The new light works decent.  Tomorrow I'm going to try and get more panels installed.
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Dec 22, 2013 05:27
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Looking good! How did you get the panel spacing wrong on the first fitting?
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Dec 22, 2013 13:23
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Jesus dude, my back hurts just looking at all the work you're doing. Nice progress.
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Dec 22, 2013 16:13
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Tomarse posted:Looking good! Two fold: 1) Panels must start/end on a stud. 2) 1/8" gap is required for expansion One was solved by respacing everything. Two was solved by using 16d nails set on the edges of the panels. Youtube has been my best friend throughout this.
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Dec 22, 2013 18:12
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