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That's the ideal job for an angle grinder, probably cut each rebar in a few seconds flat. Awesome shop you got going there, I can only hope to build something like it in the future.
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Nov 7, 2013 04:20
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I'd be incredibly nervous cutting into a slab with radiant tubes in it, but I assume they tied em down and kept the saw far enough up to not hit them. Doesn't take much of a saw cut to put a sufficient stress riser in the slab, either. I am insanely jealous, I need to win the lottery and build something like this. I suppose it might help if I ever bought tickets.
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Nov 23, 2013 01:00
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The rebar just helps the concrete remain compressively loaded at all times rather than being under tensile loading in some circumstances, it doesn't hold the cement up at all. All of the weight of the cement (and everything on top of it) is on the foam.
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Dec 10, 2013 01:35
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Another reason is if they didn't properly compact the fill. If they dug down to level in most areas and had to use some of that to fill in a deeper spot and didn't pack it as tightly as the ground around it is packed (very difficult without a lot of work or one of those vibratory compactors you see on construction sites) then that spot will sink over time and the slab will crack over it if any significant load is placed there. This is also why old patches to holes dug in roads for pipes/repairs tend to either be mounded up or sunken down. If you dig a hole in a road, that dirt is never gonna fit back in unless you put it in about 6 inches at a time and run a compactor over it for a while before tossing down another layer, so if they put all the dirt that came out back in, the patch will be a mound in the road. If they put it in, packed it down as best they could, said gently caress it and paved over it, it'll sink down rather quickly. Even after 2-3 repavings and a decade of driving you can usually see the outline of an old lovely repair within a few months because small stress cracks will form along the edges. Always, always, always compact your fill properly. Footings should be poured ideally on completely undisturbed subsoil, but a really good packing job can be OK with good quality clean fill. That brings up another point I forgot, don't ever pour or pave over loam/topsoil/unclean fill, it won't support the weight properly or last and will buckle and crack and sink quickly.
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Dec 11, 2013 18:41
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Having gotten stuck on flat ground with my Ram 2500 van (even with a fuckton of stuff in the back for a long trip) because of a couple inches of snow, I strongly recommend either getting that pickup in 4x4 or at least with a limited slip rear. That sucked, I had to quite literally unload the offroad toy off the tow dolly, use it to unstick the tow rig, drive them both to the street where I could reload everything, then reload them. After replacing the axleshaft that I exploded while getting the tow rig unstuck, that is.
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Jan 21, 2014 18:58
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Dumb question. What software did you use (if any) to do the radiant tubing routing? Every software package I've found fits one (or more) of these categories: * fundamentally broken/horribly written by an engineer who might be great at radiant design, but is abysmal at programming * holds the design files hostage until I buy materials from the company that wrote the software for an exorbitant rate (one company wanted me to spend something like $14k on PEX and routed floor panels alone. For ~1000sf.) * extremely expensive ($900 and up. Fine if you're doing this for a living, not so great if you're doing a single house and maybe a shop and another house in the future.) * completely nonfunctional. Some of the programs I found fit 3 of these!
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Feb 17, 2014 22:09
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That's far enough up that the vertical posts act as a hell of a lever arm. You could probably keep them from tipping towards each other with a 2x4 at that height. So yes, it is for support... Figure the lever arm from each side post to the pads the vehicle sits on are ~2 feet long when picking up a "normal" vehicle. Figure the vehicle weighs 2500lbs. Assume you have to handle full weight with the right at the ground, and the posts are 10 feet tall. If you make these assumptions, and say that the pivot point for your system is the center of each post's mounting pad, you've got a 1250lb weight pushing at 90 degrees to a 2 foot lever arm, so 2500 foot pounds at the pivot point. The 10 foot vertical post, though, means you only have to push sideways with 250 pounds of force to keep the vertical posts from tipping inward and have zero torque at the mounting pad. A reasonably straight broomstick will do that job. But without the spreader bar between the tops of the vertical posts, you're going to have some issues with the mounting pads most likely. Might it handle it without the top crossbar? Possibly, but I wouldn't trust concrete with that, unless there was a lot of rebar in it per the lift manufacturers instructions. Especially when it's so easy to design to make it a non-issue by putting a fairly tame structural member between the tops of the two posts. Concrete is really lovely in tension, its main strength is being inexpensive and beastly strong in compression. kastein fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Feb 18, 2014 |
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Feb 18, 2014 03:19
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Those are fine, because the outriggers with the casters on them put the load within the footprint of the lift. If they were comparable to a two post lift without a crossbar, all the wheels would be directly under the post instead of having the two legs that stick out, and the thing would tip right over.
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Feb 18, 2014 04:34
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I like to use brakleen or bbq lighter fluid as wasp killer, it doesn't leave nasty nerve-poison residue. Takes some paints off, though, so be careful.
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Apr 5, 2014 16:07
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I have one of those server racks, literally exactly the same unit, in my storage unit if any local (central Mass) goons want it. Works fine, holds servers up, has wheels, has front and rear doors, looks nice, etc, just has been in storage since 2008 because I've completely lost interest in playing sysadmin.
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Jun 3, 2014 00:04
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I just realized... even your lift is a rotary 
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Jun 16, 2014 23:51
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I don't think so, I have one of those storage bins for my copper plumbing fitting stash and they're shorter than they are wide. The back of the rack has a nice door too though, and I think two storage bins might fit back to back. Is that a 19 or a 23 inch rack?
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Jul 1, 2014 18:13
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Holy gently caress, a CORE is 6500? Now I'm not feeling like 5 grand for a viper V10 in good running condition aint so bad after all..
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Jul 22, 2014 00:35
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the spyder posted:It's going to cost more then you think. Double what ever number is in your head. That is a pretty solid recommendation for all engineering, construction, and remodeling estimates, really.
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Jan 18, 2015 04:07
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I'd say an I-beam in between trusses with a chainfall and dolley on it, actually. This may be one of my required features for my dream shop build.
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Feb 24, 2015 01:45
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The funny thing is that suspension looks pretty stiff to me... ... and I've been thinking Sigma X got a username change for months. NOW you tell us!?
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Apr 16, 2015 01:28
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Jesus, I'd be livid if someone foisted that kind of damaged goods off on me as if they were in good condition. Good compression my rear end.
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Jul 1, 2015 16:30
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Yeah gently caress him, "as is" doesn't exclude him from the engine being as he claimed it was. Good compression and that horror show of damage don't go together. From experience, ebay and paypal will side with the buyer even on something like the buyer asking for the cheapest shipping on expensive test equipment, then filing a claim due to shipping damage. Friend lost $1200 on a spectrum analyzer he sold because ebay/paypal simply took the money back even though he showed that the buyer didn't even want shipping insurance and they closed the case when he counterclaimed because the guy never sent the thing back as he was supposed to. Buyer kept the money *and* the (not very damaged) equipment. Like Z3n said, file a claim and tell em the condition is not as it was stated, and I bet you at least get money back to cover the repairs it'll need.
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Jul 1, 2015 22:09
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Bringing things back to coolant flush methods... I've had to put 25-30 gallons of water through a block to get it to run even slightly clear before. Ten years of cast iron exposed to old acidified coolant (possibly with tap water mixed in by previous owners) is enough to leave a lot of sediment and rust in there. Like everyone said, just tip it as far forward as you can and blast it with compressed air before finishing the flush with distilled water. Fun trick - if you ever need to get coolant drained below the level of a water pump or thermostat opening so that the gasket surface will dry and the RTV or gasket shellac will adhere properly, soak a paper towel or rope in water and drape it from inside the cooling system to outside and below. It'll act like a siphon.
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Nov 18, 2015 22:16
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Try rotating it back with a really big rear end pipe wrench? Now you have an excuse to buy this... http://www.harborfreight.com/48-inch-steel-pipe-wrench-1133.html (I have been looking for an excuse to buy their 4 footer for years. No luck so far.)
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Nov 18, 2015 23:26
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EightBit posted:Coolant has pH buffers in it already, a very small amount of tap water left behind after a garden hose flush won't turn the inside of your engine into the Titanic. Depends on where you live. If you have extremely hard water, it can put a lot of unnecessary dissolved alkali and alkali earth metals into the system, which will leave nasty white chunky deposits everywhere.
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Nov 19, 2015 20:34
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EightBit posted:San Antonio has some of the hardest water in the nation, and the residual amount from flushing can't crust up a whole cooling system. Wait, are you guys filling up with half tap water half coolant, instead of the pre-mix stuff? A lot of FPOs will go "whatever, water's water" and top off their low cooling system with tap water every few weeks, forever, while it slowly consumes coolant through a head gasket or LIM leak. So basically who knows how many gallons of water have been consumed by their engine, slowly, while depositing their lovely lime all over the everything. It's the only explanation I have for the abysmal condition of the cooling systems on most of the awful beater cars I've looked at in the JY. Most well cared for cars seem to have better looking coolant.
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Nov 20, 2015 15:37
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Visteon is a Ford OEM supplier, they make everything from coilpacks to differentials. or more likely subcontract them all out to other firms specializing in each type of product, depending on how their business model works. But either way, they sell direct to FoMoCo. I'd say they are most comparable to being the ACDelco of the Ford world.
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Jan 16, 2016 20:08
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the spyder posted:I would buy a new ND in a heartbeat if we did not need 4 doors. You should hear the list of cars that have been proposed. Here are some recommendations: - 95 or 99 jeep cherokee - miata - miata - e30 - miata - jeep grand wagoneer - miata
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Jan 21, 2016 21:14
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Raluek posted:The old ones were also woefully insecure. Short combination, plus two numbers per button, plus any cyclic permutation of the code is valid. There's some document floating around the internet on the quickest way to brute force them. True, but a piece of broken spark plug and a big rear end flatblade screwdriver combined cost like $2.
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Jan 27, 2016 22:17
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That's always the best part of focusing on one vehicle family. A new, unexpected purchase shows up, or a friend buys one, and you're like "huh, I happen to have all the parts you need, from abandoned build plans, leftovers from repairs, and partouts I did over the last decade" and everyone thinks you're a loving magician.
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Jan 29, 2016 01:20
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Being cast iron, I would braze it back out past original size and remachine. Brazing is generally a better process for cast iron than welding. Cast steel is far more forgiving.
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Jan 30, 2016 20:03
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Keyhole mounted lights? Yeah, trapping them is a good idea. The mill looks great. Hope the ways clean up like you expect.
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Mar 7, 2016 16:00
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Motor looks awesome going together, I seriously think you're some sort of a wizard to be able to do that much work on rotaries successfully. However - you're replacing those battery terminals on your rear battery relocation right? Those are the crappy ones. I mean, it's inside the trunk so it's unlikely to have the same corrosion issues most people with those terminals under the hood have, but the good ones aren't much more expensive and autozone has em on the shelf.
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Apr 6, 2016 22:18
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Was gonna say, thornbirds are nicknamed thornturds for a reason. If you want to stay with Interco go with the bogger (if you want to be knocked out by clods of mud to the back of the head) or TSL, TSL/SX, etc. Otherwise I'd say stick the smallest Goodyear MTR/Kevlar you can buy on there. Also, I am very very jealous of your deathkart.
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May 6, 2016 16:27
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I'm betting they want to steal your poo poo and are scoping you out. Also, a great story and a good partout ($100 free AND a motor? Score!) but I would have loved to see you make that deathkart run and drive.
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May 11, 2016 15:34
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Based on the condition I'm pretty sure the "had it running" part was done in the donor car the engine came from, or was straight up bullshit. I bet they never had the kart itself actually running and driving.
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May 11, 2016 18:20
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I dunno, it looks more to me like the lug (whether or not the manufacturer claims it fits that wire size) was too big, I see a lot of air around the conductor in the throat of the lug right before the crimp unless that's an incredibly thick wall. Crimp looks fine to me, I don't see any metal squeezed out where the two dies meet and that's not "compacted conductor" (AKA the manufacturer feeds it through some rollers to make the round strands not round anymore and thereby decrease the amount of air between/around them) cabling so I'd expect it to crush somewhat if you get a good crimp. I don't know whether Yellow Tool Manufacturer Incorporated LTD Importer of Fine Chinesium does a better job of labeling their crimp dies than Red Tool Manufacturer Incorporated LTD Importer of Fine Chinesium* does, but my red crimper just like that has the gauges marked on the dies all wrong. The largest dies it came with are marked 0 AWG and they actually do a really bang-up job of crimping lugs onto 4AWG. As for making different dies for it, if your set is like mine, it comes with dies all the way down to 14AWG, which shouldn't require a hydraulic crimper and is closer to being the right size for 18AWG or so, which REALLY shouldn't require a hydraulic crimper. My plan is to eventually mill my 14, 12, and 10AWG die sets down to make larger gauge die sets. * Red Tool Manufacturer Incorporated = HF, in this case. kastein fucked around with this message at 17:58 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 17:56
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Oh no I triggered n8r! FWIW, I would run that crimp anyday as long as it passed a pull test. Would I do it a tiny bit differently? Yeah probably. Is it fine? Yes. As for your point about people nitpicking wiring on AI... I do this professionally, as in, it's my job, I design wiring harnesses. Our wiring standards at work are mostly based off of NASA STD 8739.4 and a few FAA ACs. And I've built custom harnesses for two different AI projects, neither of which has fallen apart, failed, or burned. But hey, you do you.
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May 26, 2016 18:10
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:
I'm glad someone beat me to this suggestion.
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Jul 25, 2016 15:31
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The factory part looks like a forging or casting anyways, I bet a casting with a few finish machined surfaces would be fine. Wear surface made from steel and pinned or riveted in place if it needs it, like the sheetmetal brake pad mounting tab clips.
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Mar 7, 2018 03:25
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Right? Holy poo poo man, you built an entire car for someone as a present, that's amazing.
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Jun 25, 2020 17:09
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Holy poo poo, I'd lose my mind. I don't think I'm even past 5k on my build yet and I just drove it for the first time... Only 3 feet but still, it moved by itself.
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Jul 29, 2020 06:48
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If that Porsche is old enough (I'd be shocked if it isn't, though I haven't checked the cutoff year) you could simply register it in Vermont via mail and drive it that way for a year before using that paperwork to register it in your state. They'll even mail your plates and reg to you.
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Sep 18, 2020 01:01
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 17:35 |
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Goddamn that's cool.
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Dec 8, 2020 22:52
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